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Tow hooks for vintage mustang ?


jmn444

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Not having much luck with finding good ideas on where to put tow hooks on my '68 for the track...

 

Anybody have some pics or ideas to share?

 

Kinda leaning towards coming off the pass side frame rail in the front with a slot in the valance, and using the driver side bumper bolt mount point in the rear.... any thoughts? not sure if the rear is a strong enough spot, but I would kinda hope it is given the factory purpose of it.

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Not having much luck with finding good ideas on where to put tow hooks on my '68 for the track...

 

Anybody have some pics or ideas to share?

 

Kinda leaning towards coming off the pass side frame rail in the front with a slot in the valance, and using the driver side bumper bolt mount point in the rear.... any thoughts? not sure if the rear is a strong enough spot, but I would kinda hope it is given the factory purpose of it.

 

 

The Rear Bumper Mounting Point may not be Strong enough if you get stuck really deep in the Gravel. You would need to reinforce that area. As far as the Front goes, have you thought of having a Bracket made that mounts on the side of the Frame Rail using both Mounting Bolts of the Bumper Bracket? It should not be that hard to make using 1/4 Inch Steel Plate. If you design it right, the Tow Strap hooks to it under the Valance Panel instead of threw it.

 

A nother idea for the Front would be to take a Factory style Transmission Cross Member and weld it to the Front Edge of the Frame Rails, Weld a Ring to the Cross Member in the Middle to hook the Tow Strap to. Then Cut your Front Valance where the Tag normaly goes (like on the Terligua's) to give you easy access to the Tow Hook, plus it should help with cooling to.

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Yes, I was planning on using the factory bumper holes on the front frame rail, it's all apart, so I'm not sure about going under the valance, but I don't mind going thru it either. The plate area will be cut out, I like the idea of a xmember of some sort to tie into the rails, I don't trust the core support at all which is why I was going to the pass side. I may just have to build to that goal. do you think that simply welding in some heavy angle stock across the core support lower all the way across to tie into the rails would be enough?

 

I will see where the rear rails are when I take off the rear valance, maybe there's a good mount location already back there since the bumper mount is questionable.

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Yes, I was planning on using the factory bumper holes on the front frame rail, it's all apart, so I'm not sure about going under the valance, but I don't mind going thru it either. The plate area will be cut out, I like the idea of a xmember of some sort to tie into the rails, I don't trust the core support at all which is why I was going to the pass side. I may just have to build to that goal. do you think that simply welding in some heavy angle stock across the core support lower all the way across to tie into the rails would be enough?

 

I will see where the rear rails are when I take off the rear valance, maybe there's a good mount location already back there since the bumper mount is questionable.

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Yes, I was planning on using the factory bumper holes on the front frame rail, it's all apart, so I'm not sure about going under the valance, but I don't mind going thru it either. The plate area will be cut out, I like the idea of a xmember of some sort to tie into the rails, I don't trust the core support at all which is why I was going to the pass side. I may just have to build to that goal. do you think that simply welding in some heavy angle stock across the core support lower all the way across to tie into the rails would be enough?

 

I will see where the rear rails are when I take off the rear valance, maybe there's a good mount location already back there since the bumper mount is questionable.

 

 

Mount the Cross Member at the Front of the Frame Rails but on the Bottom of the Rails. You don't want to block access to the Lower Control Arm Strut Rod.

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I won't need access to those, they will be mounted there still, but using street or track adjustable strut rods with a rod ends instead of those crappy rubber bushings, they adjust like tie rods so once installed I don't need to get to the nut area at all.

 

I'll take another look at it all tonight and see what may work good...

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