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2010 GT500 Coupe actual weight


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Greetings Team Shelby,

 

I finally got around to dragging out my scales and sitting my 2010 GT500 on them to see what the *true* weight of it is.

 

There has been a lot of speculation and guessing at what a GT500 weighs so I wanted to see for sure. This was done on a set of Rebco professional racing scales with 15"x15" pads, zeroed prior to putting the car on them.

 

Here's the results from MY car (2010 GT500 Coupe w/Nav, HID's):

 

Left Front: 1138 lb --- Right Front: 1094 Lb

 

Left Rear: 815 lb --- Right Rear: 843 lb

 

Total Weight: 3892 pounds (3900 pounds rounded off (8 lb. shy))

 

F/R Bias; 57.3% / 42.6% (57/43)

 

R/L Bias: 50.1% / 49.8% (50/50)

 

Now understand, my car has been lightened up from stock somewhat too.

 

Items I've added to reduce weight are:

 

PST Carbon Fiber 1-pc driveshaft.

Shelby/BMR front subframe (K-member)

Steeda Radiator/Sway-bar cross-member

Roush Extreme Off-road cat back exhaust (no mufflers).

FRPP Shorty Headers (tubes replace the cast iron exh. manifolds).

Alcoa 18" GT500KR Dura-Bright Wheels

 

In fairness I added a FRPP/Whipple 2.9L polished supercharger and it is heavier than the OEM SC but not by a lot.

 

The K-member is about 20lbs lighter than stock.

 

The CF driveshaft is a good 20 lbs lighter that the OEM 2-pc.

 

The Rad. support is about 8-10 pounds lighter than the pressed metal double wall support.

 

The wheels? I couldn't even guess but they're not *much* lighter, if any (18" 10-spoke vs. 19" OEM).

 

My car has right around 3/4 of a tank of gas in it right now (I'd need to double check to be certain) so this is a pretty accurate curb weight for the car.

 

I'd venture so say that a stock/OE 2010 GT500 weighs in at a good 3950 pounds, not NEARLY as light as I've seen reported here in the past. And that's without a driver (add 224lbs for my bigg butt).

 

I'm in the process of installing a Revan Racing C&R Radiator and HE which are both aluminum (and lighter than OEM) but I expect a weight increase in the front end weight due to the higher coolant capacity. So I expect to see a higher final weight when all is said and done, likely right about what the stock weight was before I started this project.

 

 

Read 'em and weep,

Phill Pollard

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Greetings Team Shelby,

 

I finally got around to dragging out my scales and sitting my 2010 GT500 on them to see what the *true* weight of it is.

 

There has been a lot of speculation and guessing at what a GT500 weighs so I wanted to see for sure. This was done on a set of Rebco professional racing scales with 15"x15" pads, zeroed prior to putting the car on them.

 

Here's the results from MY car (2010 GT500 Coupe w/Nav, HID's):

 

Left Front: 1138 lb --- Right Front: 1094 Lb

 

Left Rear: 815 lb --- Right Rear: 843 lb

 

Total Weight: 3892 pounds (3900 pounds rounded off (8 lb. shy))

 

F/R Bias; 57.3% / 42.6% (57/43)

 

R/L Bias: 50.1% / 49.8% (50/50)

 

Now understand, my car has been lightened up from stock somewhat too.

 

Items I've added to reduce weight are:

 

PST Carbon Fiber 1-pc driveshaft.

Shelby/BMR front subframe (K-member)

Steeda Radiator/Sway-bar cross-member

Roush Extreme Off-road cat back exhaust (no mufflers).

FRPP Shorty Headers (tubes replace the cast iron exh. manifolds).

Alcoa 18" GT500KR Dura-Bright Wheels

 

In fairness I added a FRPP/Whipple 2.9L polished supercharger and it is heavier than the OEM SC but not by a lot.

 

The K-member is about 20lbs lighter than stock.

 

The CF driveshaft is a good 20 lbs lighter that the OEM 2-pc.

 

The Rad. support is about 8-10 pounds lighter than the pressed metal double wall support.

 

The wheels? I couldn't even guess but they're not *much* lighter, if any (18" 10-spoke vs. 19" OEM).

 

My car has right around 3/4 of a tank of gas in it right now (I'd need to double check to be certain) so this is a pretty accurate curb weight for the car.

 

I'd venture so say that a stock/OE 2010 GT500 weighs in at a good 3950 pounds, not NEARLY as light as I've seen reported here in the past. And that's without a driver (add 224lbs for my bigg butt).

 

I'm in the process of installing a Revan Racing C&R Radiator and HE which are both aluminum (and lighter than OEM) but I expect a weight increase in the front end weight due to the higher coolant capacity. So I expect to see a higher final weight when all is said and done, likely right about what the stock weight was before I started this project.

 

 

Read 'em and weep,

Phill Pollard

 

thats very interesting--i was surprised that the weight from side to side would be that far off from 50/50 w/o a driver--Id think designers would want a 50/50 for tire wear,springs et al.Im guesing my vert would be alittle lower on the F/R ratio,but higher in total weight with all the top stuff beind the driver. I dont fell alot of oversteer when i drive in the vert--do you fell any in the coupe

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I weighed in at a junk yard before,drove right on, weighed 3980.and change ,, and that's with me in it(165 pounds for me)...I don't understand,,one of these scales must be off ...

 

 

Well I know for *fact* that my scales are accurate. We had a weight limit we had to be over and we had to add ballast to the car to reach the limit. We made the car come within 5 pounds of the limit (to give us some leyweigh for driver water weight, scale differences, etc.) and weighed the car at *multiple* race tracks where we raced. After each tech session we had to weigh the car after our time trial but before the Heats and mains. We would always be within the 5 pounds we needed to weigh. Sometimes 3 pounds, sometimes 4 but NEVER over the 5 or under the 5 pounds. So I can safely say my scales are accurate within 5 pounds. We also used these scales in the NASCAR Featherlite Southwest Tour Series to set corner weights and weight minimums and after a race NASCAR went over the top 10 cars with a fine tooth comb and we NEVER failed a inspection. We were in the top 10 for 10 straight years and won a few races to boot which mandated a more thorough inspection including a engine tear-down. Believe me, if my scales were off I'd know it.

 

FWIW, a *junkyard* scale is about the least accurate of any publc scale you will find. Look for a moving company or Ag company that charges by the *pound* (not by the HUNDREDS of pounds or by the Ton) and their scale should be fairly accurate. If it has a Dept. of Weights and Measures tag on it, check the date to see when it was last certified. If it doesn't have any W&M cert tag...forget about using it at all.

 

Oh, and FWIW I *knew* my numbers would ruffle some feathers! I've seen too many claims of 3600 or 3800 pound (w/driver) Shelby's reported, which is exactly why I weighed my car (to prove what they *actually* weigh)!

 

 

Phill Pollard

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Well I know for *fact* that my scales are accurate. We had a weight limit we had to be over and we had to add ballast to the car to reach the limit. We made the car come within 5 pounds of the limit (to give us some leyweigh for driver water weight, scale differences, etc.) and weighed the car at *multiple* race tracks where we raced. After each tech session we had to weigh the car after our time trial but before the Heats and mains. We would always be within the 5 pounds we needed to weigh. Sometimes 3 pounds, sometimes 4 but NEVER over the 5 or under the 5 pounds. So I can safely say my scales are accurate within 5 pounds. We also used these scales in the NASCAR Featherlite Southwest Tour Series to set corner weights and weight minimums and after a race NASCAR went over the top 10 cars with a fine tooth comb and we NEVER failed a inspection. We were in the top 10 for 10 straight years and won a few races to boot which mandated a more thorough inspection including a engine tear-down. Believe me, if my scales were off I'd know it.

 

FWIW, a *junkyard* scale is about the least accurate of any publc scale you will find. Look for a moving company or Ag company that charges by the *pound* (not by the HUNDREDS of pounds or by the Ton) and their scale should be fairly accurate. If it has a Dept. of Weights and Measures tag on it, check the date to see when it was last certified. If it doesn't have any W&M cert tag...forget about using it at all.

 

Oh, and FWIW I *knew* my numbers would ruffle some feathers! I've seen too many claims of 3600 or 3800 pound (w/driver) Shelby's reported, which is exactly why I weighed my car (to prove what they *actually* weigh)!

 

 

Phill Pollard

Never stated your scale was off, just posting my results...the one thing I will say I am a friend of the guy who owns the junk yard and his scale is def not off, when it comes to making money, there scale is right on, also it gets calibrated every week,my car must just be lighter...lol ...

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Here are my weights for my 2010 GT500 with Griggs GR40TT suspension, one-piece drive shaft, Braille battery in trunk with acusump and fire extinguisher. Rear seat delete, OEM front and passenger seats replaced with Sparco, Roll hoop installed, Stock wheels, Toyo R888, Shaker system deleted... I think that is most of it... I have since replaced the stock wheels with Forgelines and they are a few lbs lighter and some lighter weight rotors.. Even with all these mods and deletes It is just tough to get our cars super light.

 

LF Weight 1129

RF Weight 1070

 

LR Weight 807

RR Weight 839

 

Total is 3845 with 3/4 tank of gas.

 

M.

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Mine weighed in at 3975 with me in it (165ish), one of the scales are messed up. I don't have any mods to lighten her up, had about 2/3 tank of gas at a truck stop.

Edited by jsarkis
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Here are my weights for my 2010 GT500 with Griggs GR40TT suspension, one-piece drive shaft, Braille battery in trunk with acusump and fire extinguisher. Rear seat delete, OEM front and passenger seats replaced with Sparco, Roll hoop installed, Stock wheels, Toyo R888, Shaker system deleted... I think that is most of it... I have since replaced the stock wheels with Forgelines and they are a few lbs lighter and some lighter weight rotors.. Even with all these mods and deletes It is just tough to get our cars super light.

 

LF Weight 1129

RF Weight 1070

 

LR Weight 807

RR Weight 839

 

Total is 3845 with 3/4 tank of gas.

 

 

 

You're 48 pounds (total) lighter than me. That sounds about right with what you're showing in your list.

 

I also need to double check my gas tank level. At about 7 lb. per gallon, 10 gallons is 70 pounds which is a big difference. You show 12 pounds lighter in the rear which is less than 2 gallons of gas so that's easy enough to understand.

 

I was wondering why your front was 33 pounds lighter than I see you moved your batt. to the trunk! Bingo, there's your difference right there.

 

Phill

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You're 48 pounds (total) lighter than me. That sounds about right with what you're showing in your list.

 

I also need to double check my gas tank level. At about 7 lb. per gallon, 10 gallons is 70 pounds which is a big difference. You show 12 pounds lighter in the rear which is less than 2 gallons of gas so that's easy enough to understand.

 

I was wondering why your front was 33 pounds lighter than I see you moved your batt. to the trunk! Bingo, there's your difference right there.

 

Phill

 

 

I wish I could drop another 100 lbs but that would mean an engine swap...... which is not going to happen! I was kinda disappointed after removing all that I did that the car was not that much lighter... But, I love the car and really enjoy driving it on the track. It is almost done...a few more items like HE and radiators and Torsen diff and that is it. Oh, maybe some different brakes...damn, it never ends.

 

M.

 

 

 

 

 

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Kona,

 

What are you feelings on below mods, does the motor vibrate the car more than stock? Can you please post a pictures of you set up?

 

PST Carbon Fiber 1-pc driveshaft.

Shelby/BMR front subframe (K-member)

Steeda Radiator/Sway-bar cross-member

 

MichealP,

What bat. relocator system did you use, did you notice any charging changes, etc..? Can you please post pictures as well?

 

Kind regards,

Gary

Edited by 04.5cummins
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Kona,

What are you feelings on below mods, does the motor vibrate the car more than stock? Can you please post a pictures of you set up?

PST Carbon Fiber 1-pc driveshaft.

Shelby/BMR front subframe (K-member)

Steeda Radiator/Sway-bar cross-member

MichealP,

What bat. relocator system did you use, did you notice any charging changes, etc..? Can you please post pictures as well?

Kind regards,

Gary

 

 

Gary,

 

I have the front end of the car up on stands right now with the HE and Radiator out of the car so this is a good opportunity to take some pics for you. I'll be working on it later today if it cools down a little more.

 

As far as vibration, engine or road noise: NONE from the front. I have the Roush rear end upper/lower control arms with solid heim joint ends on the rear end and I do get more noise from the rear but I can't tell that the front is anything but stock. No difference to me. The motor mounts are Poly and I still have OEM a-arm bushings so the only real change is the motor mounts and caster/camber plates. Oh, and the sway bars are FRPP FR3 with poly bushings and with Shelby swaybar links to go along with the Shelby Caster/Camber plates that has a bearing rather than a bushing in rubber, and there is still no real change in noise or vibes (from the FRONT).

 

HOWEVER, having said that: I just recently took a few pics of my car in my driveway and noticed that my car looked like it was tilted down a little on the drivers side. I wasn't sure if it was me or the car was really tilted so I got the tape out and measured. The car is sitting 1/2" lower on the drivers side from the ground to the fender well lip. That's MOST LIKELY due to something in the rear. A quick look under the rear and all I saw was that the springs are not timed the same from side to side, but unless they have a groove on the top frame mount that the springs sits into, that shouldn't make the car tilt.

 

So I started measuring the front. I found that the front wheels are off-set to the right side by 7/8" so now I have to find out why. That means I need to move the front K-member over by 7/16" to the left (half of 7/8"). I haven't checked the camber yet but my thinking is I'd have to have one HELL of a delta from left to right to get 7/16" off to one side so I'm leaning towards it being the K-member off to one side. I know when I first put it all together the front wheel were both in line with the rear wheels and the rear were *perfectly* centered in the body. So something has changed.

 

The driveshaft ended up being 1/2" too long so I had to move my rear axle back 1/2" to keep the CV joint from binding and making a TERRIBLE howl on my first test drive. That in itself puts more weight on the rear so it's really counter to performance. Other than that, the driveshaft has NO vibration up to at least 140-145 MPH (the fastest I'd had it on a public road!). I'd recommend the PST again but don't go with the extra 1/2" that VMP recommened (stay with the STOCK length).

 

The Steeda radiator/swaybar support bar is pretty cut and dried. I'll snap a photo of it for you without the radiator in the car so you can see how it fits. I got the one that allows me to retain the front swaybar and so far, so good. It cleans up the front real well. I also put a Steeda Driveshaft safety loop (single hoop) in the car so it matches that. It's about half the weight of the stock stamped steel cross-member and round vs. rectangle.

 

 

More later when I get a couple of photo's,

Phill

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I wish I could drop another 100 lbs but that would mean an engine swap...... which is not going to happen! I was kinda disappointed after removing all that I did that the car was not that much lighter...

 

 

I was VERY surprised when I got my total weight!

 

I knew the cars are heavier than most people think but I also thought that I lightened it up by quite a bit.

 

The only thing I can think of is that the Whipple 2.9L weighs MUCH more than the OEM Eaton. I know I was able to easily lift off the Eaton (I have a VERY bad back/7 surgeries w/multiple fusions) and I had to climb in the eng. compartment to set the Whipple on the intake so I'm guessing it might be 3 times the weight of the Eaton, if not more. It also has the crusher inlet attached which makes it heavier than just the Eaton SC itself but the OE inlet is pretty light all by itself so........<?SHRUG?>

 

 

Who knows,

Phill (it is what it is)

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