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Bumper Repair - STRIPES NOT CORRECT


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OK fellow SGT owners...tell me if I'm being too picky about my stripe repair job.

 

All this started on December 8, 2010 when I hit a dog running straight into the road at full speed from behind a bush on a major Atlanta suburb road. I just picked the car up today for the second time for the following:

 

1) First time I picked up the SGT, the shop told me that I'd have to wait 30 to 45 days for the paint to cure before they could apply the stripes. When the impact occured, it damaged the stripes and cracked the paint so they repainted the bumper first, then called me to come pick up the car. When they replaced them bumper, the section of the bumper under each headlight was curved under allowing a large 1 inch gap to form under each headlight. That had to be fixed as I could not stand the look of it.

 

2) they said that when I bring it back in for them to check out the bumper issue above, that they would then apply the stripes...only 14 days since it was painted (not the 30 to 45 originally suggested).

 

Apparently, the issue with # 1 is that when they placed the bumper in the heat room, the way they had the bumper temporarily supported it caused the bumper to curve under the bumpers weight right in the two spots below the headlight. The fix was that they removed the bumper again, reheated it, and straightened those spots. Problem was solved.

 

Now here is the root of my question.

 

When they applied the stripes, I instructed the Technician that they should only show one seem as it came from SAI. The bottom piece goes on first and then the top piece that starts underneath the grill and comes forward to the bumper face will overlap about 1/2 cm or so below the very top of the bumper...a seem hardly noticeable. What they didn't do was start the bottom piece right at the crest of the bumper face as it becomes the top of the bumper...instead, the started at the bottom and worked up to the grill and the material went about 1/4 inch past the face of the bumper and up to the top of the bumper. NOW I HAVE TWO SEEMS - ONE ON THE TOP OF THE BUMPER, AND ONE ON THE FRONT OF THE BUMPER....it is driving me nuts.

 

Should I make them go back and redo the stripes? Will it require new stripes to be ordered (at their expense)? Will it damage the paint to remove and reposition the stripes?

 

Am I being too picky?

 

To make matters worse, when I arrived home and could look closer at it in the shade, I noticed that they did not lock the hood down and only the pins were holding the hood down. :finger: They also dinged up the hood pin inserts/shields on the hood on one side...I just had the rusted lanyards replaced under warranty and SAI threw in the new Hood Pin Shields as well that the Ford dealer just installed about 45 days ago.

 

Thoughts and suggestions please....

 

Thanks!!

Andy.

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Can you take pics?

 

I think they should be redone and not even because that's the way SA does them but because that's just they way they are done. Buy the stripes from SA or someone that's made them before and have them applied as directed.

 

 

Just posted picture...the stripes are the ones I jumped through hoops to get from SAI...I'll have to do this all over again it seems....

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These are a pain to get right I did mine a few times to get it right...typical experience sadly...

 

The heating of the bumper is odd I'd check that out real close...

 

You are not being too picky tbey are doing suck quality work, period.

 

Guving you the car with the bumper gap is my first clue.

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Wasn't this the shop you PRAISED was great? just saying, you cant go by what cars they work on, at the end of the day its some guy doing the work that can screw this up, I know, I own a Auto shop and I have had some mechanics which I thought were the best....joke on me.

 

Anyway, I would get them replaced, that seem would drive me nuts also.

 

Question: did you or the shop have any extra material for the stripes? i have seen that sometimes when they send you a roll for the stripes, there is around 3 feet extra. If this is the case, you would not have to get SA in the middle of this. Stripes should come off easy since they are new and not damage the paint.

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Well, I had the shop owners direct line from the folks that referred me to them and I contacted him this morning.

I explained the entire experience and issues to him (politely), and he was willing to do whatever I wanted to make it right.

 

He offered to let me order parts, see if he could order parts & fix. I told him I want him to finish the job. SAI only sent me enough stripes to do the bumper only.

 

I'll add updates as this progresses....He still seems like a good facility at the end of the day....Only God is perfect....

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Yeah....that one bothers me even more. Get it all taken care of

 

 

+1

Get it replaced on their dime.

CC

 

 

Good....I'm glad you guys agree with me that I'm not being too picky. The shop owner (Dave) didn't have a problem with making both of these right.

I'm going to call Wendy at SAI to see if they will sell the replacement parts directly to his parts guy so I don't have to be in the middle of the process...I have too much going on running my own business to help him run his!

 

Thanks for your suggestions & thoughts!!

 

Andy.

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And make sure you are using the "aluminum screws" meant for that aluminum hood and the hood pin plates. When my hood pin plates were replaced nobody made mention of it. I discovered it through other forum threads.

 

Call SVT at 800-367-3788 - give them the last 6 digits of your VIN # and mailing/ shipping address and they send you a bag of 10 screws (although you only need 8) that are phillips head and the proper size and all aluminum. Any other metal screw on that aluminum hood including stainless steel will still rust and cause those blisters underneath the hood pin plates. Dana

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Just posted picture...the stripes are the ones I jumped through hoops to get from SAI...I'll have to do this all over again it seems....

 

 

This doesn't make sense to me. The stripes come from SA ready cut to install. This means THEY cut them to make up for a lack of ability to apply properly. They essentially damaged the stripes. They need to replace them at their cost and if they can't do it right deduct the amount of the installation from your bill and take them to an experienced auto graphics shop.

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And make sure you are using the "aluminum screws" meant for that aluminum hood and the hood pin plates. When my hood pin plates were replaced nobody made mention of it. I discovered it through other forum threads.

 

Call SVT at 800-367-3788 - give them the last 6 digits of your VIN # and mailing/ shipping address and they send you a bag of 10 screws (although you only need 8) that are phillips head and the proper size and all aluminum. Any other metal screw on that aluminum hood including stainless steel will still rust and cause those blisters underneath the hood pin plates. Dana

 

 

I hadn't heard this before! News to me!

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This doesn't make sense to me. The stripes come from SA ready cut to install. This means THEY cut them to make up for a lack of ability to apply properly. They essentially damaged the stripes. They need to replace them at their cost and if they can't do it right deduct the amount of the installation from your bill and take them to an experienced auto graphics shop.

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff is right, I found the front bumper stripes to be the hardest part of applying the stripes. Need a heat gun lots of patience and I needed some luck. Even from SA they were a little off if you really examined them new. After doing mine they look right but that took a few tries and help from guys (including Jeff, the resident stripes and scoop knowledge base...thanks again Jeff!) in TS to give me the correct guidance. Tricky stuff. Cheers!

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Jeff is right, I found the front bumper stripes to be the hardest part of applying the stripes. Need a heat gun lots of patience and I needed some luck. Even from SA they were a little off if you really examined them new. After doing mine they look right but that took a few tries and help from guys (including Jeff, the resident stripes and scoop knowledge base...thanks again Jeff!) in TS to give me the correct guidance. Tricky stuff. Cheers!

 

 

+1 The front were the hardest, I applied the stripes myself, took me two days and a heat gun...and lots of patience also

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When you do the bottom half, how far down do they extend to the lower grill area?

 

The way they are now, there is about a 2 or 3 inch section of "blue" with no stripes before you get to that lower opening (I added the black lower grill years ago - 1st mod). I wonder if they used the wrong pieces for upper/top versus lower/bumper front face?

 

Andy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

When you do the bottom half, how far down do they extend to the lower grill area?

 

The way they are now, there is about a 2 or 3 inch section of "blue" with no stripes before you get to that lower opening (I added the black lower grill years ago - 1st mod). I wonder if they used the wrong pieces for upper/top versus lower/bumper front face?

 

Andy.

 

 

 

Has anyone checked the lower part of the stripes on their bumper? ...How close do they start from the lower opening?

I'm trying to make sure this second pass is done 100% correct...

 

Thanks,

Andy.

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my stripes are fried. they are starting to show cracks like a dry desert floor. i'm gonna need to replace them or have stripes painted sometime in the future. i wonder if they can remove old stripes without messing up the paint? anyone know?

i've already had the car repainted and restriped due to the infamous 2008 hail storm.

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my stripes are fried. they are starting to show cracks like a dry desert floor. i'm gonna need to replace them or have stripes painted sometime in the future. i wonder if they can remove old stripes without messing up the paint? anyone know?

i've already had the car repainted and restriped due to the infamous 2008 hail storm.

 

 

When I had the stripes pulled off and then painted on, the shop had no problems pulling the tape

and no issues with the paint being messed up. In all the forums on this subject I have not heard

of anyone having their paint damaged when pulling the stripes, but I might have missed a post or two.

I'm sure others will chime in if they have heard of issues. Just make sure your dealing with a good shop.

Check www.yelp.com, enter the shop name and city, and see if anyone has written reviews on their work. It is a

start to get the feel of the shop but nothing beats going there, talking to the manager and looking at what

the cars look like that they are working on. Keep us posted.

CC

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When I had the stripes pulled off and then painted on, the shop had no problems pulling the tape

and no issues with the paint being messed up. In all the forums on this subject I have not heard

of anyone having their paint damaged when pulling the stripes, but I might have missed a post or two.

I'm sure others will chime in if they have heard of issues. Just make sure your dealing with a good shop.

Check www.yelp.com, enter the shop name and city, and see if anyone has written reviews on their work. It is a

start to get the feel of the shop but nothing beats going there, talking to the manager and looking at what

the cars look like that they are working on. Keep us posted.

CC

 

there's a place i know in my area that's done work on my mother's 4runner. he did a good job repainting the upper portion of the SUV and matched the paint with the factory original and even faded the new into the old so u couldn't tell where the old paint ended and the new began. and also did good on my dad's truck. they both had hail damage. i may go there.

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Sounds like you have a good starting point.

They know you and you know them. Now you just need to haggle on price.

I went with having the stripes painted as I did not

want to go through having them replaced over and over

again in the years ahead. Plus I could just wax and buff the

whole car since it was all paint.

CC

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