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SGT update to GT500 Front Brakes


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Just installed the Brembo GT500 Brakes Saturday with stainless steel lines. Install had it's fun but nothing too bad. We did a thorough manual bleed of all four corners.

 

Lefe of working in brake business, I would expect equal to better feel but pedal is long - clearly not right.

 

Appreciate comments from those doing same thing on what the change to braking feel? Did you have problem getting the air out? We went through a pint of fluid and had a lot of foam iniially.

 

Cerrently working to get it back on a hoist to bleed again. If you had issues, was there something special you did? Right now I am thinking of:

1) tapping al the calieps politely with rubber mallet to dislodge air sticking in the casting.

2) loosening the caliper bolt to move oprientation of bleed screw to let air out - again with gentle tap.

3) pushing pistons all the way in so to force them back out - wet the seal and get them freed uo if bound so pad is not engaging the rotor.

 

DrKsgt

Edited by DrKSGT
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Just installed the Brembo GT500 Brakes Saturday with stainless steel lines. Install had it's fun but nothing too bad. We did a thorough manual bleed of all four corners.

 

Lefe of working in brake business, I would expect equal to better feel but pedal is long - clearly not right.

 

Appreciate comments from those doing same thing on what the change to braking feel? Did you have problem getting the air out? We went through a pint of fluid and had a lot of foam iniially.

 

Cerrently working to get it back on a hoist to bleed again. If you had issues, was there something special you did? Right now I am thinking of:

1) tapping al the calieps politely with rubber mallet to dislodge air sticking in the casting.

2) loosening the caliper bolt to move oprientation of bleed screw to let air out - again with gentle tap.

3) pushing pistons all the way in so to force them back out - wet the seal and get them freed uo if bound so pad is not engaging the rotor.

 

DrKsgt

 

 

 

I did the same thing a few months back and my Ford Tech had me start the bleeding process on passenger side rear then to the drivers rear to the passenger front and finished at the drivers front. Something to do with the ABS system. I hope this helps.

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I did the same thing a few months back and my Ford Tech had me start the bleeding process on passenger side rear then to the drivers rear to the passenger front and finished at the drivers front. Something to do with the ABS system. I hope this helps.

 

 

+1

 

Make sure you start with the "longest" line = Rear Passenger side and work your way to the Front Driver side lines...

 

And NEVER let the Master Cylinder run dry or low during the process = ABS lines will cavitate first and you will need to take it into the dealer or a mechanic who has a pressurized bleeding system...

 

EDIT = Don't forget that the Brembo's have 2x Bleeders on EACH Caliper :doh:

 

Good Luck!

Edited by 07SGT0547
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I did this not long ago with no issue at all and no long pedal. Sounds like you do still have some air somewhere. I went through very little fluid, so it's odd that you do still have some air trapped. As mentioned above, are you doing both sides of the Brembo's? I did mine pretty much by myself, just cracking the bleeders and letting them self bleed a bit (one wheel at a time), then had my wife come out and do the pumping proceedure. Only had to do each wheel once, using the same, passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front, and all was well. Let us know if you are still having an issue. Maybe you do have a stuck caliper causing an issue?

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Thanks for the comments so far. Person I was working with has done brake programs in the past and is good. Only thig we noticed was that doing the rear hoses that we dropped a lot of fluid. He mentioned the grafity bleed would have taken too long.

 

We did do passenger rear first, driver rear second, passenger front third and driver front last. Master cylinder reservoir never went below two thirds empty.

 

Could be rears got air into the ABS but I have not figured where it is to consider that. I reused pads that were with the calipers because they looked only slightly worn without any taper.

 

Might be good to bite the bullit and have dealer do pads and bleed. ???

 

Generally I get opinion you have a good pedal and not noticeably different,

 

DrKSGT

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I did mine quite sometime ago but there was quite a difference between the two sets of pads, the used ones gave the long pedal feel and new pads were good to go, are you using new or the old pads?

+1 on this.

 

Jer

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the comments so far. Person I was working with has done brake programs in the past and is good. Only thig we noticed was that doing the rear hoses that we dropped a lot of fluid. He mentioned the grafity bleed would have taken too long.

 

We did do passenger rear first, driver rear second, passenger front third and driver front last. Master cylinder reservoir never went below two thirds empty.

 

Could be rears got air into the ABS but I have not figured where it is to consider that. I reused pads that were with the calipers because they looked only slightly worn without any taper.

 

Might be good to bite the bullit and have dealer do pads and bleed. ???

 

Generally I get opinion you have a good pedal and not noticeably different,

 

DrKSGT

 

 

 

What are your plans with this vehicle? I run hawk hps pads, they perform great for my DD and for a occasional road racing event.

They are dusty but works well, however, there are cheaper pads if your only going to just use it for show.

These pads are the easiest to swap, push pin out, slide pads out, push piston in and put back in the new pads and pin and you are set. Maybe let your local speed shop or if you really have a trusted master mech bleed your brakes, what fluids are you using?

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What are your plans with this vehicle? I run hawk hps pads, they perform great for my DD and for a occasional road racing event.

They are dusty but works well, however, there are cheaper pads if your only going to just use it for show.

These pads are the easiest to swap, push pin out, slide pads out, push piston in and put back in the new pads and pin and you are set. Maybe let your local speed shop or if you really have a trusted master mech bleed your brakes, what fluids are you using?

 

Overall plan is more DD and show. Friday will be the day for the Master Mech bleed and Hawk performance pads if I can get them here. Hated that I could not find them local.

 

Of course I do a few agressive parade laps when SAAC club I belong to sponsors a track day. My only fear in buying the helmet to really run will run my expenses going through the roof.

 

Fluid is the base Ford fluid because of not tracking the car. Staying away from any DOT4 as it needs replacing sooner due to it's higher moisture absorption.

 

Thanks for the comments and interest.

DrKSGT

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Got rid of the long pedal on Saturday. Probable cause was air wicking back to the ABS unit while changing rear hoses. Fix needed the electronic box to fire the internal solenoids while using pressure ball. Guys tried the manual bleed first and got nothing.

 

Pedal is shorter that the original equipment and stopping is much more aggressive. :shift: :happy feet: Saved the install money and held off on putting Hawks on yet. :happy feet: Kind of prepped for track now. :shift::shift::shift:

 

Thanks to all with ideas.

 

DrKSGT

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Can you explain a little bit more about the process used to solve the issue? Might be really helpful for others on future searches.

 

 

+1

 

Jer

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Congrats on solving the problem! Can you explain a little bit more about the process used to solve the issue? Might be really helpful for others on future searches.

 

Process was developed as part of how ABS systems are developed. Our cars have four cavities within the Hydraulic unit that are normal closed when brakes are operating normally, all fluid from master cylinder goes to the brakes. When any wheel wants to lock a solenoid opens a valve to allow fluid to be diverted away from the wheel through the cavity. If there is air in the cavity, the valve does not work correctly because the air will compress and screw up the flow but because it is not an ABS cycle the air is not pushed to the caliper if doing a manual bleed.

 

I am certain they used their Tech II box or what ever it is called now to simulate a real ABS cycle. Each cavity cycles to make all air that might have gotten in any one force it toward the brakes. Using a bleed ball makes sure the fluidis available at all inlet locations when the solenoid fires. Tech indicated that they do as mentioned before to bleed longest path first, usually the Passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, and finally driver front. Process eliminates where most air can be trapped and each step clears next shortest.

 

Interesting was that Tech told me that the Brembo fonts neded three bleed strokes. Outboard side, inboard side, and a second outboard. This is due to the nature of how to get the air completely out. The outboard pistons are fed by a brake tube at the bottom of the caliper.which must have potential for some air to still be trapped requiring a second outboard stroke. Interiors to caliper do have a lot of unmachined surface where air can stick to the rough casting and fluid flow across the air makes it move.

 

Not sure that many have the money for the box. My company has cringed in the past when new ones come out that are needed due to ever advancing technology. I would only suggest it if you are taking the rear lines apart based on this experience. You should suspect something if you are not getting much braking and the brake pedal travels easily down the the height of the gas pedal( 3-4 inches and it feels like your leg is too short). I believe mine now is less than an inch to feel noticeable braking.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Tom

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great info thanks i put the gt500 on sgt and i just bled outside then inside and called it good. Now i will have to do this again. Does anyone know if there is any good pressurized brake system out there that are affordable

 

 

Motive.

I have one here at the house, Jon.

Lemme know, I'll ship it to ypu...

 

Jer

 

 

 

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