Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

NEW PROJECT MUSTANG


ratnacage

PROJECT MUSTANG  

5 members have voted

  1. 1. COOL?

    • I LIKE IT
      4
    • NOT SO MUCH
      0


Recommended Posts

After months of arguing, pleading, and begging, I've worn down my General Manager and General Sales Manager to where they are allowing us to build a special Mustang. It's special in that we're directing most of the budget towards REAL performance parts and not so much for cosmetics.

 

Here's the build spec as it sits currently:

2007 Mustang GT premium coupe, manual (charc interior, Red, Black, or Alloy exterior, and typical options)

C&L CAI

Kooks long tube headers, high flow cats, Ford Racing mufflers

lowering springs

Adjustable upper control arm

Strut tower brace

Baer brakes and calipers front/rear (14" fronts)

3.73 Gear

Hurst shifter

SCT custom tuned on dyno

20x9 and 20x10.5 Weld Racing Wheels BC-010

Cervini GT500 style splitter

Black-out honeycomb on trunk rear (between tail lights)

Window tint

Spoiler? TBD, maybe delete.

 

It's expected that the horsepower should be 340-350 at the crank (300+ rwhp). When deciding on what to do, we considered a supercharger, but that combined with everything else simply pushed the total cost well into GT500 territory. If we sacrificed other items to allow for a supercharger, then the car would just be incomplete in my opinion, so we decided to stay NA. And frankly, everyone (dealers) are slapping superchargers on these cars and I wanted something different.

 

As for the wheels, 18's are ideal for true performance, but it was decided that 20's are an easier sell. Same with the gear; 4.10's would be ideal, but 3.73's are a great compromise for performance/cruising/daily driving.

 

The wheels, tires and brakes alone consume half the budget, but I think it's worth having some high quality items rather than cut corners in these areas with low-budget knock-off parts. Not everyone is willing to step up, but then we're not looking to mass-produce this car either. Maybe one a month?

 

We're waiting on the right Mustang to build on, so in the mean time I'd like to see opinions on what you'd want to see, things you'd change, etc. Keep in mind the full blown MSRP for this is about $43,500, but can sell below $40k and still be worth the effort. Before anyone flames the price - I know you can do it less yourself, but this has to be professionally installed; I can't have Joe down the street do it in his garage in his spare time.

post-5356-1174456147_thumb.jpg

post-5356-1174456147_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After months of arguing, pleading, and begging, I've worn down my General Manager and General Sales Manager to where they are allowing us to build a special Mustang. It's special in that we're directing most of the budget towards REAL performance parts and not so much for cosmetics.

 

Here's the build spec as it sits currently:

2007 Mustang GT premium coupe, manual (charc interior, Red, Black, or Alloy exterior, and typical options)

C&L CAI

Kooks long tube headers, high flow cats, Ford Racing mufflers

lowering springs

Adjustable upper control arm

Strut tower brace

Baer brakes and calipers front/rear (14" fronts)

3.73 Gear

Hurst shifter

SCT custom tuned on dyno

20x9 and 20x10.5 Weld Racing Wheels BC-010

Cervini GT500 style splitter

Black-out honeycomb on trunk rear (between tail lights)

Window tint

Spoiler? TBD, maybe delete.

 

It's expected that the horsepower should be 340-350 at the crank (300+ rwhp). When deciding on what to do, we considered a supercharger, but that combined with everything else simply pushed the total cost well into GT500 territory. If we sacrificed other items to allow for a supercharger, then the car would just be incomplete in my opinion, so we decided to stay NA. And frankly, everyone (dealers) are slapping superchargers on these cars and I wanted something different.

 

As for the wheels, 18's are ideal for true performance, but it was decided that 20's are an easier sell. Same with the gear; 4.10's would be ideal, but 3.73's are a great compromise for performance/cruising/daily driving.

 

The wheels, tires and brakes alone consume half the budget, but I think it's worth having some high quality items rather than cut corners in these areas with low-budget knock-off parts. Not everyone is willing to step up, but then we're not looking to mass-produce this car either. Maybe one a month?

 

We're waiting on the right Mustang to build on, so in the mean time I'd like to see opinions on what you'd want to see, things you'd change, etc. Keep in mind the full blown MSRP for this is about $43,500, but can sell below $40k and still be worth the effort. Before anyone flames the price - I know you can do it less yourself, but this has to be professionally installed; I can't have Joe down the street do it in his garage in his spare time.

 

 

 

Nice!!! Almost sounds exactly like what I'm doing with my car. No cosmetic mods except for the wheels. Keep it NA and go with the spoiler delete. The car just looks so much cleaner that way. Suspension wise I'd add the Tokico D Spec shock/struts, adj panhard bar and brace, and Steeda Billet lower control arms. That with the added power and brakes would make a sweet machine.

 

I'm building a street version of the FR500C. Here's a snap shot of the car before I had Evolution install my suspension.

 

post-6180-1174456963_thumb.jpg

 

Now the car is lowered on Eibach Pro Kit springs, Tokico D Spec struts/shocks, Steeda Heavy duty upper strut mounts, BMR adj third link, Steeda Adj panhard bar and brace, and Steeda Billet lower rear control arms.

 

 

I say go for it, car should be awesome once done. :happy feet:

post-6180-1174456963_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice!!! Almost sounds exactly like what I'm doing with my car. No cosmetic mods except for the wheels. Keep it NA and go with the spoiler delete. The car just looks so much cleaner that way. Suspension wise I'd add the Tokico D Spec shock/struts, adj panhard bar and brace, and Steeda Billet lower control arms. That with the added power and brakes would make a sweet machine.

 

I'm building a street version of the FR500C. Here's a snap shot of the car before I had Evolution install my suspension.

 

post-6180-1174456963_thumb.jpg

 

Now the car is lowered on Eibach Pro Kit springs, Tokico D Spec struts/shocks, Steeda Heavy duty upper strut mounts, BMR adj third link, Steeda Adj panhard bar and brace, and Steeda Billet lower rear control arms.

I say go for it, car should be awesome once done. :happy feet:

 

Thanks. Yeah, something about a plain wrapper really enhances the looks I think. Definitely if someone were willing to pay near the MSRP, a full coil-over system could be included.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After months of arguing, pleading, and begging, I've worn down my General Manager and General Sales Manager to where they are allowing us to build a special Mustang. It's special in that we're directing most of the budget towards REAL performance parts and not so much for cosmetics.

 

Here's the build spec as it sits currently:

2007 Mustang GT premium coupe, manual (charc interior, Red, Black, or Alloy exterior, and typical options)

C&L CAI

Kooks long tube headers, high flow cats, Ford Racing mufflers

lowering springs

Adjustable upper control arm

Strut tower brace

Baer brakes and calipers front/rear (14" fronts)

3.73 Gear

Hurst shifter

SCT custom tuned on dyno

20x9 and 20x10.5 Weld Racing Wheels BC-010

Cervini GT500 style splitter

Black-out honeycomb on trunk rear (between tail lights)

Window tint

Spoiler? TBD, maybe delete.

 

It's expected that the horsepower should be 340-350 at the crank (300+ rwhp). When deciding on what to do, we considered a supercharger, but that combined with everything else simply pushed the total cost well into GT500 territory. If we sacrificed other items to allow for a supercharger, then the car would just be incomplete in my opinion, so we decided to stay NA. And frankly, everyone (dealers) are slapping superchargers on these cars and I wanted something different.

 

As for the wheels, 18's are ideal for true performance, but it was decided that 20's are an easier sell. Same with the gear; 4.10's would be ideal, but 3.73's are a great compromise for performance/cruising/daily driving.

 

The wheels, tires and brakes alone consume half the budget, but I think it's worth having some high quality items rather than cut corners in these areas with low-budget knock-off parts. Not everyone is willing to step up, but then we're not looking to mass-produce this car either. Maybe one a month?

 

We're waiting on the right Mustang to build on, so in the mean time I'd like to see opinions on what you'd want to see, things you'd change, etc. Keep in mind the full blown MSRP for this is about $43,500, but can sell below $40k and still be worth the effort. Before anyone flames the price - I know you can do it less yourself, but this has to be professionally installed; I can't have Joe down the street do it in his garage in his spare time.

 

Sounds like a good strong plan. Had I the cash for a GT & mods, this would be near identical to my list.

 

I would do a GT emblem delete, if possible, and a spoiler delete.

 

Gives it a low, mean profile, with nothing shiny / distracting. Black or Alloy, something dark. Menacing.

 

But that's just me, and that's just appearance. The suspension / perf mods you have are great. Not over the top, but gives it a lot of kick, and keeps the price more reasonable.

 

- Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excuse me, was someone looking for a dark & menacing Mustang? :spiteful:

 

Jim - your car is looking good, my friend.

 

Rat - I give your list a thumbs up except for the 20's.

 

Tony - there isn't a GT emblem delete that I know of - but mine are gone. :hyper:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excuse me, was someone looking for a dark & menacing Mustang? :spiteful:

 

Jim - your car is looking good, my friend.

 

Rat - I give your list a thumbs up except for the 20's.

 

Tony - there isn't a GT emblem delete that I know of - but mine are gone. :hyper:

 

 

 

Thanks Ruf, the car looks so much better now that its lowered. :happy feet:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like the concept except the wheel size (I like big, but 20's look way too "pimp my ride" to me) and the brake package. You say that the wheels/brakes will be 1/2 of the budget - I'd go 18 (19 if you absolutely have to have the oversize look) wheels and not do or do less with the brakes. Speed and handling stuff = good use of the budget. Gears will help and your body mods aren't too over the top.

 

Just my opinion... good luck with the project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like the concept except the wheel size (I like big, but 20's look way too "pimp my ride" to me) and the brake package. You say that the wheels/brakes will be 1/2 of the budget - I'd go 18 (19 if you absolutely have to have the oversize look) wheels and not do or do less with the brakes. Speed and handling stuff = good use of the budget. Gears will help and your body mods aren't too over the top.

 

Just my opinion... good luck with the project.

 

Yes, you are correct, but I was overruled on that. I would have gone with 18's also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the cars at the shows. There seems to be a trend to go toward larger and larger rims. I don't understand it. At some point (and I've learned this myself) you sacrifice looks for comfort/performance.

 

I've jumped off that bandwagon (back to 18's) and don't care!

 

It's your Thing - do What you Wanna do!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the cars at the shows. There seems to be a trend to go toward larger and larger rims. I don't understand it. At some point (and I've learned this myself) you sacrifice looks for comfort/performance.

 

I've jumped off that bandwagon (back to 18's) and don't care!

 

It's your Thing - do What you Wanna do!

 

Right now, while my stang is getting its cams, I'm driving the shop's loaner which has 20's on it. I am not impressed. The car feels very unsure in corners, especially high speed corners. Any bumps make the car feel like it's going to hop into the adjoining lane. This contrasts sharply with the go-cart feel of my car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...
...