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Aftermarket HU w/ Kicker 4.1 amp?


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what deck is that, and how did you get the snake logo on it?

 

 

The Pioneer AVIC Series decks let you upload any graphic you want as your "splash screen" for when the unit powers up. It's done via the SD card slot, DVD drive, Bluetooth, or USB connection (depending on model).

 

Jer

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One final question, hopefully you guys will check back here as you have before. Did Ford fade the speakers artificially to the rear w/ the OEM radio? The reason I'm asking is this: on my AVIC x930-bt I need to have the fader set to the rear at least to a "5" to hear the rears at all and they certainly don't seem amplified as the fronts are at any fade setting at all. The installer verified the plug and play aspect, ie the 4.1 amp isn't hooked to the fronts and the door woofers. Just can't seem to get any amplification to the rears at all. It's cool that everything else works great (as above I can't control the trunk sub with my HU), but I'm glad it's working at the level it is with all the problems they had matching it all up (apparently). Am wondering now if I should replace the front doorw with a higher quality speaker as I'm hearing them now probably 90%. Any thoughts?

 

I hope I am understanding your question here correctly.

 

But I believe I noticed the same thing when I installed my Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp. The front door speakers (6x8's) are much, much louder than the rear deck 6x8's when the amp is installed into the system. I can barely hear the rear speakers at all. However, if I run the Shaker 500 unit straight off the head unit (factory configuration) the rear speakers are much more noticable. I find it a bit annoying for sure...because if you do fade the speakers to the back - you loose all the "punch" that you are supposed to gain by installing the Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp! Unfortunately for me...the only adjustments I can make with the Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp is with the head unit - it'd be nice if there were gain adjustments able to be made on the amp itself.

 

I just re-installed the Kicker/Shelby Amp after having it removed for about a year. I just thought I would give it another try with all the talk about audio systems lately. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I'm going to leave it in this time.

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I hope I am understanding your question here correctly.

 

But I believe I noticed the same thing when I installed my Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp. The front door speakers (6x8's) are much, much louder than the rear deck 6x8's when the amp is installed into the system. I can barely hear the rear speakers at all. However, if I run the Shaker 500 unit straight off the head unit (factory configuration) the rear speakers are much more noticable. I find it a bit annoying for sure...because if you do fade the speakers to the back - you loose all the "punch" that you are supposed to gain by installing the Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp! Unfortunately for me...the only adjustments I can make with the Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp is with the head unit - it'd be nice if there were gain adjustments able to be made on the amp itself.

 

I just re-installed the Kicker/Shelby Amp after having it removed for about a year. I just thought I would give it another try with all the talk about audio systems lately. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I'm going to leave it in this time.

 

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Thx for the reply. I had my 4.1 and rear sub/updated speakers in with my original HU and with the three "preset fades... ie. driver/all/rear" the amplification was fine. Therre was no need to manually fade to the rear. But, with this HU, it's a big difference. I was just wondering if any other owners had the same problem. Love all the options with the AVIC versus the stock Shaker 500 I removed, but the lack of really any rear speakers is annoying. And yes if you fade it too much, one loses all the definition from the fronts. May just have to listen to the rear sub, the 2 door subs and invest in real high quality speakers for the front and forget about the rears...?

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I hope I am understanding your question here correctly.

 

But I believe I noticed the same thing when I installed my Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp. The front door speakers (6x8's) are much, much louder than the rear deck 6x8's when the amp is installed into the system. I can barely hear the rear speakers at all. However, if I run the Shaker 500 unit straight off the head unit (factory configuration) the rear speakers are much more noticable. I find it a bit annoying for sure...because if you do fade the speakers to the back - you loose all the "punch" that you are supposed to gain by installing the Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp! Unfortunately for me...the only adjustments I can make with the Kicker/Shelby 4.1 amp is with the head unit - it'd be nice if there were gain adjustments able to be made on the amp itself.

 

I just re-installed the Kicker/Shelby Amp after having it removed for about a year. I just thought I would give it another try with all the talk about audio systems lately. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I'm going to leave it in this time.

 

 

I have had none of those balance problems from front to rear, my overall balance hasn't changed at all. In fact, the only reason I want a new head unit is to get some real EQ. (And Bluetooth, Nav, and my iPod on the touchscreen wouldn't suck, either.)

I had the full Shaker 1000 system.... hmmm... wonder if the Kicker system acts weird with the Shaker 500?

 

Jer

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Thx for the reply. I had my 4.1 and rear sub/updated speakers in with my original HU and with the three "preset fades... ie. driver/all/rear" the amplification was fine. Therre was no need to manually fade to the rear. But, with this HU, it's a big difference. I was just wondering if any other owners had the same problem. Love all the options with the AVIC versus the stock Shaker 500 I removed, but the lack of really any rear speakers is annoying. And yes if you fade it too much, one loses all the definition from the fronts. May just have to listen to the rear sub, the 2 door subs and invest in real high quality speakers for the front and forget about the rears...?

 

Hi again...

 

I had replaced all my 6x8's with the Kicker 6x8's a while ago...nice improvement with that alone. I don't have the trunk sub however...so that might change things acoustically for me. I didn't realize that you were talking about having problems with an aftermarket headunit installed.

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I have had none of those balance problems from front to rear, my overall balance hasn't changed at all. In fact, the only reason I want a new head unit is to get some real EQ. (And Bluetooth, Nav, and my iPod on the touchscreen wouldn't suck, either.)

I had the full Shaker 1000 system.... hmmm... wonder if the Kicker system acts weird with the Shaker 500?

 

Jer

 

 

I'm not sure Jer...it just seems like what happens to with my Kicker amp installed. I don't think I'm imagining it. Too bad there isn't an easy alternative to the kicker amp. I don't want to get into cutting wires and everything else. But I like to be surrounded by the sound stage...I don't like the feeling that the music is coming at me from the front only. But as I mentioned in my previous post - maybe if I get the trunk sub it would fill out the sound stage by bringing a strong bass into the back. Unfortunately, I just don't have the money to spring for the trunk sub at this point. I really want to get the car paid off before buying things that I really don't "need". So maybe at the end of the year or something. Not sure though. Thanks for the input and info. Also I completely agree with you on needing a true EQ in these things! It's really crazy in this day and age to not have an EQ bult into the stock set up...I mean...come on.

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Well, after living with the Kicker/Shelby amp for about 3 days...I have to say that I'm enjoying it. It definitely makes the sound spectrum much more vibrant and alive, if you will. Of course I am really in need of some serious bass..so it looks like I will be biting the bullet soon and ordering the trunk sub. The good thing is that the installation will be super easy. Only tough part is running that power lead through the firewall...removing the wheel well guards. But the rest of it will be easy...run the wires to the trunk - plug in the wire to the amp and fasten the sub in the trunk.

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Well, after living with the Kicker/Shelby amp for about 3 days...I have to say that I'm enjoying it. It definitely makes the sound spectrum much more vibrant and alive, if you will. Of course I am really in need of some serious bass..so it looks like I will be biting the bullet soon and ordering the trunk sub. The good thing is that the installation will be super easy. Only tough part is running that power lead through the firewall...removing the wheel well guards. But the rest of it will be easy...run the wires to the trunk - plug in the wire to the amp and fasten the sub in the trunk.

 

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I've been thinking of upgrading my amp to the Kicker amp, but now I have concerns.

 

I've replaced the 6x8's and head unit in both of my cars (1 w/Shaker 500 and 1 w/Shaker 1000). Both of them had basically the same configuration. The 6x8's are run off the deck, the door subs are run by the amp under the dash, and the rear subs are run off the 4 amps next to them. I used 2 separate wiring harnesses. One that runs the basic head unit with all the 6x8 outputs and one to hook up to the factory amp and run the door subs. (See at Crutchfield.) Also using a 5v regulator in the power line to get rid of the pop.

 

My understanding of the Kicker 4.1 amp is that it replaces the factory amp under the dash and is supposed run the 6x8's AND (the .1) to run the door subs? So if this is the case, then unless someone hooked it up wrong there shouldn't be any fade issues (front/back) because they all should be getting the same power. An interesting thing though, (if you haven't changed your 6x8's) Ford used 50w speakers for the doors and 25w speakers for the rears and they are paper junk.

 

So if I'm right about what the Kicker 4.1 amp runs then what about the 5v issue? Do you still need it?

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I've been thinking of upgrading my amp to the Kicker amp, but now I have concerns.

 

I've replaced the 6x8's and head unit in both of my cars (1 w/Shaker 500 and 1 w/Shaker 1000). Both of them had basically the same configuration. The 6x8's are run off the deck, the door subs are run by the amp under the dash, and the rear subs are run off the 4 amps next to them. I used 2 separate wiring harnesses. One that runs the basic head unit with all the 6x8 outputs and one to hook up to the factory amp and run the door subs. (See at Crutchfield.) Also using a 5v regulator in the power line to get rid of the pop.

 

My understanding of the Kicker 4.1 amp is that it replaces the factory amp under the dash and is supposed run the 6x8's AND (the .1) to run the door subs? So if this is the case, then unless someone hooked it up wrong there shouldn't be any fade issues (front/back) because they all should be getting the same power. An interesting thing though, (if you haven't changed your 6x8's) Ford used 50w speakers for the doors and 25w speakers for the rears and they are paper junk.

 

So if I'm right about what the Kicker 4.1 amp runs then what about the 5v issue? Do you still need it?

 

Some comments for you...can't answer all of your questions though -

 

The kicker amp doesn't replace any amp...it basically jumps in between the wiring from the stock head unit and the 4 6x8's. The .1 you refer to is the output for the shelby Kicker trunk sub.

 

There is no way to hook up the wires wrong with the kicker/shelby set up...maybe I have a defective unit..or maybe it's just way it is. The rear speakers are a long way from your ears..when you look at it...plus they are semi-blocked by the rear seat headrest...so they are probably just as loud as the front ones after considering that.

 

not really sure about the 5v regulator...not needed in the regular set up of the Shelby/kicker system with the stock head unit though.

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Once again appreciate the input. Since it is plug and play, I'd have to assume the under glovebox 4.1 kicker amp. drives all my speakers (front/rear/door subs/trunk sub) exactly the way it did before I switched the HU out. Once again, everything was amplified correctly (which in my case means the rear 6x8's) before I switched out the HU. I understand the rears are not within ear range per se' like the fronts. But I need to approx. double the volume and put the fade on 7 or 8 to the rear (out of 15) to get them to have the amplification of the fronts with stock fade. The difference is enough to make a guy scratch his head... Not a real big thing, but I don't see a solution which makes me wonder about investing in higher quality front 6x8's since I'm happy with the 3 subs.. (two doors and rear)...?

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the kicker 4.1 amp does not drive the door subs. That still remains the duty of the factory amp. i believe it's under the drivers side kick panel.

 

sounds to me like something is hooked up wrong for you..it it's that bad. I don't know....maybe someone has a db meter to measure the sound output or something - to see if it's all the same.

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Some comments for you...can't answer all of your questions though -

 

The kicker amp doesn't replace any amp...it basically jumps in between the wiring from the stock head unit and the 4 6x8's. The .1 you refer to is the output for the shelby Kicker trunk sub.

 

There is no way to hook up the wires wrong with the kicker/shelby set up...maybe I have a defective unit..or maybe it's just way it is. The rear speakers are a long way from your ears..when you look at it...plus they are semi-blocked by the rear seat headrest...so they are probably just as loud as the front ones after considering that.

 

not really sure about the 5v regulator...not needed in the regular set up of the Shelby/kicker system with the stock head unit though.

 

 

Thanks for the clarification. I thought the Kicker amp replaced the factory one. What you've said makes sense and the 5v thing doesn't matter since it's the power supply for the factory amp.

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Thanks for the clarification. I thought the Kicker amp replaced the factory one. What you've said makes sense and the 5v thing doesn't matter since it's the power supply for the factory amp.

 

 

I think it might be beneficial if somehow we swapped out the door subs with the kicker ones...and somehow got a better amplifier to power those things. I haven't dug into the kick panel to see what that amp looks like...or the wiring. Anyhow...just based on the difference on the stock 6x8's and the kicker ones....I believe I'm going to order up the shelby/kicker door subs later this week.

 

I've grown to like the shelby/kicker amp now - so no plans on removing it...hopefully my trunk sub will arrive this week.

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Just received my Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub. Very nice piece of audio equipment! Looks to be of top notch quality...I didn't realize how heavy it was...and the Shaker 1000 is supposed to be even heavier? Wow. I can't wait to get it installed and cranked up for the first time. Hoping to get that done tomorrow or Tuesday.

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Just received my Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub. Very nice piece of audio equipment! Looks to be of top notch quality...I didn't realize how heavy it was...and the Shaker 1000 is supposed to be even heavier? Wow. I can't wait to get it installed and cranked up for the first time. Hoping to get that done tomorrow or Tuesday.

 

 

Pulling the Shaker subs and the amp racks to replace it with the Kicker unit is an easy 30lbs weight savings.

 

 

I also want to look into getting more power to the door subs, as the Kicker 4.1 doesn't seem to push them very hard.

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Just received my Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub. Very nice piece of audio equipment! Looks to be of top notch quality...I didn't realize how heavy it was...and the Shaker 1000 is supposed to be even heavier? Wow. I can't wait to get it installed and cranked up for the first time. Hoping to get that done tomorrow or Tuesday.

 

 

Wait until you lift it out, it's pretty funny how huge and heavy it is by comparison.

 

Jer

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Pulling the Shaker subs and the amp racks to replace it with the Kicker unit is an easy 30lbs weight savings.

 

Wait until you lift it out, it's pretty funny how huge and heavy it is by comparison.

 

Sorry guys..I guess I wasn't clear - I don't have the shaker1000 system, just the 500 without the trunk sub. Hopefully will be able to get it installed tomorrow and will let you know my impressions.

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unfortunately, I got the wiring all run for the sub and hooked it up - but I got nothing coming from the sub. Only issue I can find is with the power lead possibly coming from the fuse box - there's a connector that goes on the wiring once it is fed through the firewall. Usually these things "snap" when you here it is pressed into the connector properly. This one doesn't seem to. It also has a white rubber type sleeve for the wire lead to go through...so I can't see what the inside of the connector looks like.

 

Anyone have any thoughts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got my trunk sub all hooked up and working - thanks to 03DSGSnake for his help.

 

All I can say is that the bass is overwhelming now! Definitely not lacking in that department now with the Kicker/Shelby sub installed. I have to keep the bass at the halfway mark or lower now! Just really crazy! LOL!

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Finally got my trunk sub all hooked up and working - thanks to 03DSGSnake for his help.

 

All I can say is that the bass is overwhelming now! Definitely not lacking in that department now with the Kicker/Shelby sub installed. I have to keep the bass at the halfway mark or lower now! Just really crazy! LOL!

 

 

How are your door subs?

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The trunk sub really adds alot. You won't be disappointed...

 

Do you find that you need to keep the bass control really low with the addition of the trunk sub? The only bad thing about that is that it steals the bass from the 6X8 door speakers and they sound a little too tinny for my tastes.

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