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Oil Change? 6.5qt or 7qt?


daemonj

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While at the Romeo engine plant the question on oil capacity came up .

 

When they fill the engine for the first time it takes just over 7.2 qts. However when changing the oil and filter it is reccomended to only use 6 1/2 qts as some oil never drains out completly ie: oil cooler ect. He also said that it should be slightly lower than the top line on the dip stick .

 

I also agree that the 820s (or equivalent ) is the way to with the filter as jcthorne pointed out so well.

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The bottom line is if you use the Ford recommended weight of oil and Ford recommeded oil filter and the Ford dealer changes the oil, the maintenance is in the Ford data base there can't be any questions if for some God awful reason there is a warrenty claim for engine damage. I know of one Crown Vic. owner who had to pay for his own engine repair because he used the wrong weight of oil.

 

I had an 01 Cobra that had the engine die, they would have voided my warranty except for one thing - they had done the last oil change.

 

My engine replacement therefor cost me $50 dollars instead of $7500.00 or more.

 

I can't stress to all of you enough, if you don't get your oil change done at the dealership they will use that to their advantage should anything untowards happen to your vehicle. What I did was get a good price out of them then took it there every 3000 miles on my 99, 01, and 04 Cobras.

 

Don't get over-charged, but records count in this day and age.

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I had an 01 Cobra that had the engine die, they would have voided my warranty except for one thing - they had done the last oil change.

 

My engine replacement therefor cost me $50 dollars instead of $7500.00 or more.

 

I can't stress to all of you enough, if you don't get your oil change done at the dealership they will use that to their advantage should anything untowards happen to your vehicle. What I did was get a good price out of them then took it there every 3000 miles on my 99, 01, and 04 Cobras.

 

Don't get over-charged, but records count in this day and age.

I think it is importand to keep records also. I bought the Motorcraft oil and filters from Ford and keep the reciepts in my Shelby file. I then write down the mileage and oil change date in a maint. log book. If anything happens to my my motor, I will produce my records. If you have no records and just say "I change my oil myself", then I think you could have a proplem.

 

Records are very importand back up for engine falure problems.

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I just bought a case, catually 14 qts. of 5 50 Motorcraft oil from the dealer. They charged me $7.85/qt and tried to impress on me what a good deal I was getting as it is usually $17.50/qt :huh: Local WalMarts have the 820s filters for under $4.00. I was told Mobil 1 has 5 50 out in Europe but it doesn't meet the US standards yet and they are working on it.

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I just bought a case, catually 14 qts. of 5 50 Motorcraft oil from the dealer. They charged me $7.85/qt and tried to impress on me what a good deal I was getting as it is usually $17.50/qt :huh: Local WalMarts have the 820s filters for under $4.00. I was told Mobil 1 has 5 50 out in Europe but it doesn't meet the US standards yet and they are working on it.

 

 

Good news on the Mobil 1 coming out - have had great luck with Mobil 1 for many years!

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Just because a shop uses it does not mean they have any idea what is inside the can. They likely were told by someone or marketing group that it was 'better'. And it is, just not better at what matters for your car on the street. It also has a higher profit margin for the service ticket. If you want to know why something is the way it is, follow the $$.

 

You are correct that the K&N and Ford Racing filters both contain anti-drainback valves. The K&N one is not silicone the last time I looked at its specs. It was some other type of polymer, Buna I think but it has been a while. I am not an expert on filtration by any means, go look this stuff up yourself if you wish. I did and found out what works for MY needs. Was just trying to save you some $$ that was not doing anything for your application. Better depends on the intended use.

 

 

+1 - have read multiple "oil/oil filter" debates and the Motocraft FL 820S was rated almost as high as the most expensive preimum oil filters costing 3+ times as much....I see no reason to spend more $$ - especaially when this is the Ford recommend filter. VERY important to keep your receipts and document your oil change intervals in the maintenance manual for proof if you ever have an engine issue.

 

Another note...the filter evaluations also found that the Fram filters and rebranded Fram filters (Shell, Quaker State, etc.) were the least effective and their antidrainback valves did not work very well and allowed oil from the filter to drain back into the pan after shutting off.

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I just bought a case, catually 14 qts. of 5 50 Motorcraft oil from the dealer. They charged me $7.85/qt and tried to impress on me what a good deal I was getting as it is usually $17.50/qt :huh: Local WalMarts have the 820s filters for under $4.00. I was told Mobil 1 has 5 50 out in Europe but it doesn't meet the US standards yet and they are working on it.

 

Mobil 1 5/50 has been for sale here in Canada for a year now. I made sure it had the proper aproval on the bottle .$8 a litre. I have the dealer change it with factory filter. I also beleive it is better to have the doc to back up any warranty claims. I will bring it to the dealer till the 7 year warrany runs out. That will only be 14 oil changes.

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Mobil 1 5/50 has been for sale here in Canada for a year now. I made sure it had the proper aproval on the bottle .$8 a litre. I have the dealer change it with factory filter. I also beleive it is better to have the doc to back up any warranty claims. I will bring it to the dealer till the 7 year warrany runs out. That will only be 14 oil changes.

Just make it a point to check the oil level before you leave the dealer - on a level surface and after the engine has been off for a while. That way if the oil level is too high the dealer can remove some of it before it has a chance to froth up. Happened to me once too many times.

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Just make it a point to check the oil level before you leave the dealer - on a level surface and after the engine has been off for a while. That way if the oil level is too high the dealer can remove some of it before it has a chance to froth up. Happened to me once too many times.

 

I have not checked it myself but both oil changes they put in 6 1/2 litres

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Here you go guys!

 

Technical Specifications

Type V-8

Manufacturing location Romeo, Michigan

Configuration Iron Block and Aluminum Heads

Intake manifold Cast-aluminum with Roots-type supercharger and air-to-water intercooler

Exhaust manifold Cast iron

Crankshaft Forged steel

Throttle Body Dual 60 mm, electronic

Valvetrain DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

Valve diameter Intake: 37.0 mm; Exhaust: 32.0 mm

Pistons Forged aluminum

Connecting Rods Cracked forged steel I-beams

Ignition Coil-on-plug

Bore x stroke 3.552 x 4.165 in. / 90.2 x 105.8 mm

Displacement 330 cu. in. / 5,409 cc

Horsepower 500 hp @ 6,000 rpm (SAE Certified)

Torque 480 lb.-ft. @ 4,500 rpm (SAE Certified)

Compression ratio 8.4:1

Redline 6,250 rpm

Idle Speed in Neutral 750 rpm

Engine control system Spanish Oak PCM

Required fuel Premium

Fuel Injection Electronic returnless sequential

Oil capacity / type 6.5 quarts / Motorcraft 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Coolant capacity 21 quarts

Peak Boost 9 psi

May 1, 2006

 

J O H N A L G U I R E

PERFORMANCE MARKETING MANAGER:

FORD GT

SHELBY GT500 MUSTANG

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I do my own oil changes on my GT500 (only one so far) primarily because I don't trust the technician to keep the oil from pouring/dripping onto the K-member, which is nearly right underneath the oil filter. I don't want the oil in my frame. I cut a piece of Goodyear rubber roofing underlayment to lay across this part of the frame, and it worked great for this purpose.

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Here you go guys!

 

Technical Specifications

Type V-8

Manufacturing location Romeo, Michigan

Configuration Iron Block and Aluminum Heads

Intake manifold Cast-aluminum with Roots-type supercharger and air-to-water intercooler

Exhaust manifold Cast iron

Crankshaft Forged steel

Throttle Body Dual 60 mm, electronic

Valvetrain DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

Valve diameter Intake: 37.0 mm; Exhaust: 32.0 mm

Pistons Forged aluminum

Connecting Rods Cracked forged steel I-beams

Ignition Coil-on-plug

Bore x stroke 3.552 x 4.165 in. / 90.2 x 105.8 mm

Displacement 330 cu. in. / 5,409 cc

Horsepower 500 hp @ 6,000 rpm (SAE Certified)

Torque 480 lb.-ft. @ 4,500 rpm (SAE Certified)

Compression ratio 8.4:1

Redline 6,250 rpm

Idle Speed in Neutral 750 rpm

Engine control system Spanish Oak PCM

Required fuel Premium

Fuel Injection Electronic returnless sequential

Oil capacity / type 6.5 quarts / Motorcraft 5W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Coolant capacity 21 quarts

Peak Boost 9 psi

May 1, 2006

 

J O H N A L G U I R E

PERFORMANCE MARKETING MANAGER:

FORD GT

SHELBY GT500 MUSTANG

I am not looking forward to changing the coolant...21 quarts...wow. :nonono:

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You don't need to get your oil changed at the dealership to prove you have maintained your vehicle!!! I had a blow engine (T-Bird) under warranty, the service manager said I would need to show proof of oil changes before he could cover under warranty. No problem, I have always kept a log book and receipts for all my vehicles. Now if I didn't keep the receipts there would have been a problem. As for me, I do it myself before I'll let some teenager work on any of my cars.

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I just had my 1st oil change done (1000 klm) by the dealer where I bought it, and they gave me what they called The Shelby Package... It has a HD 820 filter apparently it has a bigger magnet in it and 6.5L 5W-50 full syn. oil... I was charged $167.84 :rant:... I asked them for a smoke before I left, if you get my drift... :angry2:

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I just had my 1st oil change done (1000 klm) by the dealer where I bought it, and they gave me what they called The Shelby Package... It has a HD 820 filter apparently it has a bigger magnet in it and 6.5L 5W-50 full syn. oil... I was charged $167.84 :rant:... I asked them for a smoke before I left, if you get my drift... :angry2:

 

 

That triple black is a SHOWSTOPPER....beauty :happy feet: :happy feet:

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I attended the Romeo Engine plant tour August 9th and while I was there I asked the question of how much oil should I put in during changes. Should it be 6.5 or 7, I was told by the supervisor of the 5.4 niche line that 6.5 was it not 7.

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HA HA HA HA!!! I just called the local dealer for a quote on the oil change SHelby Gt500. He replied $35 inlcuding the synthetic blend oil required for my car. Then he asked what a Gt500 is. Uh oh, time to go to another dealer!

 

Called the alternative dealer and they quote full synthetic change and filter is $59. Sounds reasonable to me!

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:redcard: hey guys,just pulled out my shelby gt 500 supplement booklet (canadian version). here are the canadian break downs for a proper oil change page 29+35.......... 6.1 liters, includes oil filter change. oil filter part # fl-820s. use motorcraft sae 5w-50 full synthetic motor oil or an equivalent ford spec wss-m2c931-b. change oil at every 5000 km. hope this helps all in doing a proper oil change in canada. great subject guys in keeping are shelby healthy. :happy feet: also the american equivalent would be the same as above but 6.5 quarts of oil at every 3000 miles.

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  • 2 years later...

Dug up another oil capacity thread????? :hysterical:

 

05 Mustang GT gets 6qts to dipstick full mark with filter change..........

 

08 Shelby GT-500 gets 7qts to dipstick full mark with filter change..........

 

With confidence............ :lurk:

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Its 6.5 quarts. Any more than that, and technically you could loose a little H.P. because of oil slugging off the crankshaft as well as potental seal damage. Checking the dip stick just a few moments after running the engine will not give you an accurate gauge of the actual amount of oil in the pan because there is a significant amount of oil still sitting in the galleys and valve trains that has not made its way back down to the pan.

 

Install only 6.5 quarts, then check the engine the next morning when the engine is cold and you will find that the stick will have oil sitting just smack dab in the middle of the hash marks or maybe just slightly higher than mid point, because it's likely that all of the previous oil did not get completely extracted out of the engine during the change over. I would also suggest that the engine is up to full operating tempature before the oil change to insure that it's in its most viscus state in order to get the most amount of oil to flow out the drain hole.

 

I also recommend using Royal Purple oil. Its really great stuff. Check the link on their ad running at the top of the forums, you might be suprised what you see.

 

Hope this helps...

 

 

I didn't see 5W-50 listed on thier web site. Do they actually sell our oil?

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I didn't see 5W-50 listed on thier web site. Do they actually sell our oil?

 

No, they don't, but their 10W-40 XPR (XPR very important) has the same lubracation properties and viscosity as 5W-50. That came directly from their technical support hotline which is listed on the website if you want to call yourself. RP also makes a "street" version of 10W-40, so that's why you have to buy the XPR race oil. The 10W-40 XPR exceeds FoMoCo's oil requirement for the 500's.

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No, they don't, but their 10W-40 XPR (XPR very important) has the same lubracation properties and viscosity as 5W-50. That came directly from their technical support hotline which is listed on the website if you want to call yourself. RP also makes a "street" version of 10W-40, so that's why you have to buy the XPR race oil. The 10W-40 XPR exceeds FoMoCo's oil requirement for the 500's.

 

 

 

Thanks, I'll look into it - shows they sell at Pep boys. I've heard this is a good oil to run.

Happy Motoring

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