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More Super Snake wheels


PapaZ

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Thanks guys. I will stick with the setup I have for now as I like the handling with the steeda package. I am going to add a light bar, CR HE. Also am going to do the roush wheel hop kit. Any other essentials that I am missing?

 

 

That may serve you well. I'm still struggling with committing to a next move, despite knowing exactly the tire issues I'm hoping to resolve and what I'd like to achieve. At present, I'm sitting with two complete sets of SVTPP wheels and a full set of 19" x 10" SVTPP wheels from Ford Racing for good measure which are just waiting for me to make up my mind. One key thing I want to improve is hookup - for which the only solution pretty-much means wider tires. To do so, I have to have the OE wheels widened to 10.5" (as wide as I can go without removing suspension parts or cutting away pieces of the chassis. Anyway, for every 1" of inboard wheel width I add, I should theoretically add a 1/2" spacer to restore the original track - something i'm not AT ALL keen on doing.

 

But then it starts you thinking... Gee. 1/2" spacers would allow me to add another 1/2" of wheel width... which means I can NOW go to 325's, not just 315's. But to do so properly, I'd have to add another 1/4" spacer - which would also give me ANOTHER 1/4" of possible wheel width an maybe even 335's - which come in 335/30-20's that are almost identical to stock diameters. Well, even if that were something I could be comfortable with, what the hell do I do about the fronts? I'd pretty-much have to go to at least 285's to keep a modicum of over/under steer balance, but not without making a hovercraft out of the damn car at the first sign of rain.

 

I now fully appreciate the value of having fully-customizable wheel offsets to help overcome a lot of these issues, and just how much a premium makers must place on being able to dial-in a certain set of controlled variables once they've ensure the outcome they want. It's really easy to become enamored with the ease of swapping parts and how cool some of them look - and you'll find no shortage of people who are proud as punch about whatever look they've tried to pull-off.... but where they usually fall silent is when the discussion turns to how any changes they've made have affected peformance or handling which, for almost the first time ever, actually matters in a Mustang.

 

 

 

 

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I would tell both of you guys at this point to contact Van at Revan Racing (561-445-7702). He, as you may already know, developed the CR Heat Exchanger which Shelby branded. In addition he has a vast amount of race / modding experience that he is always willing to share. Great guy and before you go any further I strongly suggest you both call.

IA, I'd also suggest you look into doing a pulley/tune. It's a nice first step and a great way to make more power to go with your other mods. I'm sure you can't imagine having more power..... or you may think you don't need it...... and you're right........ you really don't. Right up until you have it.

Madlock, despite the fact that you've got several sets of 19's, I'd actually trade one of those sets in on a light set of 18's with R888's for track days (and dry weather!). Unless esthetics are a goal you feel better achieved with the 19's, you would get your gearing back and give yourself lots of options when it comes to tire brand/size/compound so that you could ultimately manage/setup your car as you saw fit. Just look at what the road race guys are running. And while I'm sure you're just planning ahead, until your Watts link is in place (sig!), along with most of the rest of a full suspension needed on an S197 chassis to make it truly compete, the altered track from a staggered setup would be a long way from being the least common denominator.

Good luck to both of you as you make decisions and I'm looking forward to hearing how it all turns out!

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I'd actually considered a set of 18's. Despite the access to a whole new slew oftire choices they'd make possible, I think I've found enough available optionsamong 19's and 20's. Besides, my primarygoal is to improve (increase) hookup/footprint.

 

You DO make an excellent point in that a smaller wheel withsimilarly proportioned tires is a terrific low-fuss way of lowering the car'sCG. I may have to deal with somenet-gearing changes by virtue of the changes in tire size, but I'm not going tochange tire sizes primarily for the sake of altering the gearing. I'd be far better opening the diff andswapping the ring and pinion instead.

 

The real challenge for me with my 19's is whether to usethem for a set of touring tires – by going to a 40 aspect rear tire, or tosimply use them to substitute the BOSS 302's 285/35-19's. The only challenge to making that work out ofthe box is how differently the GT500 and BOSS 302 are sprung.

 

As for the widened rear 20's, I'm actually now consideringspacers – not for clearance, but to maintain track. By adding 1" of inboard wheel width, ½"spacer would restore the proper position. Perhaps I'm being more anal about this than matters, but the ideal wouldbe 335/30-20's because they're virtually identical in diameter to the 285/35-20's– though 325/30-20's would be close enough to not matter, but there's really noway of pulling that off without pushing-out the wheel FAR farther than I'mcomfortable with.

 

As for getting IA started, I'd recommend working his waythrough the rear suspension one component at a time – replacing the Upper andLower control arm with billet or tubular (perhaps even adjustable) and eitheran adjustable panhard bar or watts linkage. From there, the Ford Racing adjustable dampers make for a terrific wayto add a whole lot of control over how the car behaves that's 100% reversibleat any time. Beyond that, I'm very muchof the less is more school.

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I'd actually considered a set of 18's. Despite the access to a whole new slew oftire choices they'd make possible, I think I've found enough available optionsamong 19's and 20's. Besides, my primarygoal is to improve (increase) hookup/footprint.

 

You DO make an excellent point in that a smaller wheel withsimilarly proportioned tires is a terrific low-fuss way of lowering the car'sCG. I may have to deal with somenet-gearing changes by virtue of the changes in tire size, but I'm not going tochange tire sizes primarily for the sake of altering the gearing. I'd be far better opening the diff andswapping the ring and pinion instead.

 

The real challenge for me with my 19's is whether to usethem for a set of touring tires – by going to a 40 aspect rear tire, or tosimply use them to substitute the BOSS 302's 285/35-19's. The only challenge to making that work out ofthe box is how differently the GT500 and BOSS 302 are sprung.

 

As for the widened rear 20's, I'm actually now consideringspacers – not for clearance, but to maintain track. By adding 1" of inboard wheel width, ½"spacer would restore the proper position. Perhaps I'm being more anal about this than matters, but the ideal wouldbe 335/30-20's because they're virtually identical in diameter to the 285/35-20's– though 325/30-20's would be close enough to not matter, but there's really noway of pulling that off without pushing-out the wheel FAR farther than I'mcomfortable with.

 

As for getting IA started, I'd recommend working his waythrough the rear suspension one component at a time – replacing the Upper andLower control arm with billet or tubular (perhaps even adjustable) and eitheran adjustable panhard bar or watts linkage. From there, the Ford Racing adjustable dampers make for a terrific wayto add a whole lot of control over how the car behaves that's 100% reversibleat any time. Beyond that, I'm very muchof the less is more school.

 

 

++++++++++

 

Thanks guys. Appreciate the insight. I am going to call Van and pick up the CR HE.

 

On my suspension I have already installed steeda springs, tokico d-specs, adj panhard bar, adj front and rear sway bars and upper strut mount. I held off on the uca/lca becasue I kept reading stories how noisy they are. I was leaning towards the roush kit based on feedback that it was effective and not noisy.

 

I am debating on going with the pulley/tune or the entire tvs package. I may hold off until Shelbyfest next year when I can have installed on site. I believe the only bad decision I have made so far was a purchase of a ford racing black shift lever/knob that was supposed to fit. It binds the shift boot and is clanky. I will be going back to OE.

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IA, how about a few pics of that vert?! You too Madlock.... not enough pics of that killer glass roof option! Love to see 'em so please post them up or attach a link. Thanks in advance!

 

 

You know... about the glass roof... though I suppose I'm glad to have it and I DO think it looks good from the outside, I have to confess it's probably the least thought-about part of my car.

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Well I guess I can see that actually. Although I'd imagine when it does get your attention on a nice night you're awful happy to have it. And I'd also bet if you ride in one without it..... you'd miss it. Just sayin.....

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Yes, in terms of practicality I've seriously wondered if the added weight above the center of gravity caused any noticeable increase in roll. Only way to tell I guess would be to track them back to back as I'm almost sure it would be a negligible difference on the street.

Anyway, my vert is far from practical (squeaks/rattles drive me nuts) especially in terms of weight and chassis flex....... but man is it fun!

It's that pesky ying & yang paradox again....

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  • 2 weeks later...

I snapped a few photos in the driveway while having a cool beverage. CR Heat exchanger arrived today. Shelby light bar coming in the next couple of days along with Carroll Shelby signed air bag plate. Hopefully I can get this pictures to download.

DSC01014.jpg

 

 

Looks absolutely awesome. Eleanor color scheme is perfect. Looking forward to some nice top down pics with that light bar next........ you know it's going to look great. Thanks for posting! M

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