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:( DTC Codes after Whipple Install


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Well, in the past 24 hours, she's thrown P0300, P0301 and P0306 misfire codes 3 different times. Anyone have any idea why after the Whipple install, I'd be throwing these codes consistently? I check them right away and clear and after only 15-20 minutes of VERY EASY driving, they show up again... ?

 

What's going on?!

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I'm far from an expert on this... but maybe improper gapped plugs? odd that you'd get it on 3 diff cylinders (at least i'm assuming that's what the codes are saying...)

 

 

They all came "pregapped", but I checked them before install and they all appeared to be correct. Oh and the P0300 is "random" cylinder misfire (or it wasn't able to determine which one) and P0306 is cylinder 6 and P0301 is cylinder 1.... ugh... this is all i need. I feared this shit would happen.

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Hmmmmm....take it to the best tuner in town and have them double check if you can't locate the issue yourself. You would be sorry if something went seriously wrong and you did not spend the extra coin with a pro tuner to get it done. It will all work out in the end.

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Hmmmmm....take it to the best tuner in town and have them double check if you can't locate the issue yourself. You would be sorry if something went seriously wrong and you did not spend the extra coin with a pro tuner to get it done. It will all work out in the end.

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Hmmmmm....take it to the best tuner in town and have them double check if you can't locate the issue yourself. You would be sorry if something went seriously wrong and you did not spend the extra coin with a pro tuner to get it done. It will all work out in the end.

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Hmmmmm....take it to the best tuner in town and have them double check if you can't locate the issue yourself. You would be sorry if something went seriously wrong and you did not spend the extra coin with a pro tuner to get it done. It will all work out in the end.

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Take a read on pgs 15-17 of the OBD P.Ops Manual here. I see you have a differnt intake than the FRPP Whipple kit was calibrated for. My guess is if you use the correct tube the problems will go away. If so, you'll know you need the calibration adjusted for the additional flow of the JLT. My guess is the FRPP calibration on the MGT isn't leaving a lot of room in the tables since the 550HO tune is at the safe [long-life] limits of the stock 4.6 3V, so if you don't mind swapping out the JLT to see if that fixes it, that will give you the answer, I think. Good luck!

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Take a read on pgs 15-17 of the OBD P.Ops Manual here. I see you have a differnt intake than the FRPP Whipple kit was calibrated for. My guess is if you use the correct tube the problems will go away. If so, you'll know you need the calibration adjusted for the additional flow of the JLT. My guess is the FRPP calibration on the MGT isn't leaving a lot of room in the tables since the 550HO tune is at the safe [long-life] limits of the stock 4.6 3V, so if you don't mind swapping out the JLT to see if that fixes it, that will give you the answer, I think. Good luck!

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Take a read on pgs 15-17 of the OBD P.Ops Manual here. I see you have a differnt intake than the FRPP Whipple kit was calibrated for. My guess is if you use the correct tube the problems will go away. If so, you'll know you need the calibration adjusted for the additional flow of the JLT. My guess is the FRPP calibration on the MGT isn't leaving a lot of room in the tables since the 550HO tune is at the safe [long-life] limits of the stock 4.6 3V, so if you don't mind swapping out the JLT to see if that fixes it, that will give you the answer, I think. Good luck!

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Take a read on pgs 15-17 of the OBD P.Ops Manual here. I see you have a differnt intake than the FRPP Whipple kit was calibrated for. My guess is if you use the correct tube the problems will go away. If so, you'll know you need the calibration adjusted for the additional flow of the JLT. My guess is the FRPP calibration on the MGT isn't leaving a lot of room in the tables since the 550HO tune is at the safe [long-life] limits of the stock 4.6 3V, so if you don't mind swapping out the JLT to see if that fixes it, that will give you the answer, I think. Good luck!

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Take a read on pgs 15-17 of the OBD P.Ops Manual here. I see you have a differnt intake than the FRPP Whipple kit was calibrated for. My guess is if you use the correct tube the problems will go away. If so, you'll know you need the calibration adjusted for the additional flow of the JLT. My guess is the FRPP calibration on the MGT isn't leaving a lot of room in the tables since the 550HO tune is at the safe [long-life] limits of the stock 4.6 3V, so if you don't mind swapping out the JLT to see if that fixes it, that will give you the answer, I think. Good luck!

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Ya, my understanding is that the JLT CF tube is a directly replacement for the standard Whipple tube.

 

'68 - I read pages 15-17, but I'm not sure I'm any more in the know. But I sure WILL keep that link handy for future issues.

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pretty sure his JLT tube is just for looks with the whipple....

 

 

yeah, it shouldn't really be a problem but I figured it might help chase it down ...if not It could also be a damaged coil/loose connection.

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Hmmmmm....take it to the best tuner in town and have them double check if you can't locate the issue yourself. You would be sorry if something went seriously wrong and you did not spend the extra coin with a pro tuner to get it done. It will all work out in the end.

 

 

Thanks for the advice, but that will be absolute last resort. Not aware of who the best tuner is in town, but I'm sure their experience does not exceed that of Whipple or Lethal Performance. I'll be exhausting all troubleshooting from them before I have a local "expert" start messing with it.

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yeah, it shouldn't really be a problem but I figured it might help chase it down ...if not It could also be a damaged coil/loose connection.

 

 

I gotta say, when I plugged the coils back in, NONE of them "snapped" back in like they did when I took them out. I kept delicately pulling them back out and reapplying them, expecting that distinct POP from when they are removed, but they just didn't seem to make the same noise or provide as much resistance upon removal as they did the first time. But if that was the case, those codes should have showed up almost instantly now? It took a week for these to rear their heads? Nonetheless, I'm certainly open to the possibility considering what I experienced when replacing the coils. Hmmmmm....

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It would be odd for multiple coil packs to go at once. Has the problem existed since immediately after install?

 

 

I agree. I finished the install on 5/1 and drove it all last week without any codes (and aggressively at time). First DTC's showed up Saturday 5/7. Cleared them, but they showed up again Sunday. Cleared them and they showed up again this morning, without ANY heavy throttle.

 

Got an email back from Whipple wanting to talk about it. Hopefully they have some insight. BTW, anyone else ever talked to the receptionist at Whipple? What a BIAT&$!!!

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I'd consider pulling the plugs on the cylinders affected to take a look...

 

sucks man, gotta be bad to be in your shoes right now, but it doesn't sound like a catastrophic failure, so hang in there!

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oops, i didn't read what you just typed....

 

even MORE odd, that it'd be a week later for this to surface.

 

did the problem occur after a recent fill up of gas?

 

 

Actually, it first showed up after I got a little heavy on the throttle with between 1/8-1/4 tank of gas, which I'm not told is a NO-NO for full throttle. So after I cleared those codes, I went and filled up. It's twice since then. Seemingly unrelated, but good thought. BTW, I have noticed any rough idle or lack of power/acceleration either. :banghead::headscratch:

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It would be odd for multiple coil packs to go at once. Has the problem existed since immediately after install?

 

 

true ...the 3V packs are known to be prone to mechanical/physical damage ...I was thinking possibly just removing them could have affected one or two ...or may be loose somehow.

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true ...the 3V packs are known to be prone to mechanical/physical damage ...I was thinking possibly just removing them could have affected one or two ...or may be loose somehow.

 

 

I'm hoping this is the case. I know when I took them out initially, it took quite a tug to get them out and as I mentioned before, I wasn't very comfortable at how they really didn't SNAP back into place on the reinstallation. Also as you all know there is quite a bit of activity that takes place over (or inadvertently on) these coils when doing this install, such as putting the intake in place, putting the SC in place, putting the intake tube in place... If these are historically delicate pieces, it wouldn't surprise me at all if they got damaged from some of the rough work around them. But again... why a week later?! :rant2:

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I don't have a Whipple, (Edelbrock), but I doubt it's the coils for reasons stated above. (I understood, however, there was an issue of some type bewtween the old style and the new style coils - you can tell by the color). Fuel is a good guess - change your filter! I'd also consider replacing the plugs as I've seen some that looked perfectly fine, but were cracked internally and shorting out, throwing the misfire code!

 

Sam

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Well... it gets worse... I drove it home over lunch and after about a half throttle acceleration, it went into safe mode. Put me on what seemed like about 6 cylinders for about 30 seconds with the engine light flashing. Then is cleared, engine light went away and I had full power again. Limped it home and on the way I gave it another about-third throttle accel... block later... safe mode again. Once again, reduced power (barely enough to make it up a small hill I was on) and flashing engine light.... about 30 seconds later, it cleared the light and back to full power. Limped it the rest of the way home and thought I really need to check what codes it threw this time... get this... NONE. How does it go into safe mode TWICE and NOT throw a code? How frustrating. I have a spare fuel filter, I think I'll install that and see what happens, but I tell you what... this is getting old real fast.

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Patience is a mechanics best friend...you'll find it.

 

Recheck all wire connections and grounds then plugs.

 

Seems like I get a fair number of brand new broken parts for some reason.

 

Are you getting any detoniation at all? Or pinging?

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Patience is a mechanics best friend...you'll find it.

 

Recheck all wire connections and grounds then plugs.

 

Seems like I get a fair number of brand new broken parts for some reason.

 

Are you getting any detoniation at all? Or pinging?

 

 

Patience is a virtue... that I was not born with! :banghead: But good advice nonetheless.

 

I don't THINK I'm getting detonation/pinging, but frankly, I've never heard it so I'm not sure I know what I'm listening for. I hear tiny gremlins on a daily basis that are nothing though so I think if it was a significant noise, I'd have heard it... so I think, no.

 

As for the wiring... I MAY... MAY... be one to something there. So I decided to switch cylinders 1 and 6 with the other cylinders that weren't hitting code. Switch 6 with 3 and switched 1 with 2. When I was putting 2's coil connector plug back on, I noticed that it kept pushing right back off... like it was spring loaded. I then noticed that I had to actually pull the retaining clip back "out" to get it to grab and stay in place. When I did that, I thought back and I think a couple of the coil plug connectors may have just come right off when I removed them. Meaning they weren't "clipped" in place... just resting on the connector, seemingly looking connected. That said, I'm not sure if 1 and 6 were the ones that were originally like that. I've checked them all and they all appear to be in tight, clipped in position now. Going to drive it again now that I've switch the coils and made sure the plugs are connected securely. Next update should be where it's fixed or on to plan B.

 

BTW, thanks for all the helpful suggestions guys. :beerchug:

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