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Suspension Upgrades


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Along with the HP upgrades i am looking at doing in the near future, I am going to beef up the suspension as well. My first thoughts are Upper/Lower CA's with the relocation brackets and a F2Watts link. Do I need the relocation brackets for sure or is this just a better option? Is this the best idea for the rear end? I haven't put much thought into the front yet, but I'm definitely looking into the Shelby K-member for the front. This will help me fit the SC under the strut tower brace as well. I've thought about the Griggs setup but I don't know how streetable that option is. I only get to the strip about once or twice a year and I have yet to get my SGT on the track. I am just wondering what all the benefits are exactly from all the upgrades and what others have done with success and are happy. This mod bug is making me sick! :shift:

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Whoa. Seems like you're thinking about doing a ton of work... which is fine.

 

Honestly, I tend to recommend a stepped approach to suspensions for high performance street cars. You already know that you're car has to be somewhat liveable on the street. You probably wouldn't like 500 lb/in coilovers on highway. There are a few things that will aid in traction, and weight savings without sacrificing ride quality- the front tubular K-frame and rear lower LCAs are great ways to do that. If I had the extra money , I would grab a set of front lower adj. arms too; it gets rid of the soft bushings and allows camber and caster adjustments.

 

For the rear, I love the watts setup compared to the factory panhard bar. It gets rid of the stupid arch movement of the rear axle, and allows for a more positive connection between the axle and chassis.

 

Next, a nice set of adj. dampers and race springs would be a nice upgrade. The Ford Racing springs and dampers are a nice compromise for street and track use, but if you want to get a little more I would recommend the H&R race springs. These would stiffen up the car more, and reduce roll in the corners; the spring rates really control the weight of the S197. You could use them with your FR dampers. I use them, and really like the road feedback I get. You will give up some comfort, but they're more forgiving than full coilovers- again, that would be another step. You get the idea.

 

Finally, you can address the chassis if you wish. The S197 chassis is very stiff from the factory; much better than the older designs. The FR strut brace is plenty, You could use subframe connectors, but I really wouldn't worry about that unless I was running coilovers with slicks. One brace I do like is the triangular side braces that go behind the fenders. I can't remember who makes them, but they run from the front door jamb to the middle of the side frame section.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited by socalwrench
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I've done the following for street and road course setup in combination with the FRPP handling pack:

 

Front: tubular K-Member, tubular A-Arms with A-Arm brace, caster camber plates and bump steer kit.

Rear: Fays2 Watts Link, lower CA with relo brackets (welded), adjustable upper CA

 

This will give you a good ride on the street and track. Of course you need to combine with some good wheels and tires........and brakes.......and.......

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Along with the HP upgrades i am looking at doing in the near future, I am going to beef up the suspension as well. My first thoughts are Upper/Lower CA's with the relocation brackets and a F2Watts link. Do I need the relocation brackets for sure or is this just a better option? Is this the best idea for the rear end? I haven't put much thought into the front yet, but I'm definitely looking into the Shelby K-member for the front. This will help me fit the SC under the strut tower brace as well. I've thought about the Griggs setup but I don't know how streetable that option is. I only get to the strip about once or twice a year and I have yet to get my SGT on the track. I am just wondering what all the benefits are exactly from all the upgrades and what others have done with success and are happy. This mod bug is making me sick! :shift:

 

 

Instead of mismatching parts from one or another that has been rebadged do yourself a favor and go with the Griggs GR40 full street setup. In the process of doing mine and would have been done already but Griggs been on backorder with certain pieces. Will be able to tell you the results in a few weeks. My 08 GT/SC has the FRPP suspension and I do not like it. Since our Shelby GT's are much lighter than the GT500's the shocks that came on it are too 'floaty'. I have the Griggs GR40 on an older Mustang and its super grippy but yet not too hard core and could easily be driven everyday.

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I've done the following for street and road course setup in combination with the FRPP handling pack:

 

Front: tubular K-Member, tubular A-Arms with A-Arm brace, caster camber plates and bump steer kit.

Rear: Fays2 Watts Link, lower CA with relo brackets (welded), adjustable upper CA

 

This will give you a good ride on the street and track. Of course you need to combine with some good wheels and tires........and brakes.......and.......

 

 

i know what you mean when you say and....and....and....

I've heard that it's a good idea to weld the relo. brackets. Why is this? I have seen that a lot of these relo brackets come as a bolt on kit. do you just bolt them in the right place then weld?

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Instead of mismatching parts from one or another that has been rebadged do yourself a favor and go with the Griggs GR40 full street setup. In the process of doing mine and would have been done already but Griggs been on backorder with certain pieces. Will be able to tell you the results in a few weeks. My 08 GT/SC has the FRPP suspension and I do not like it. Since our Shelby GT's are much lighter than the GT500's the shocks that came on it are too 'floaty'. I have the Griggs GR40 on an older Mustang and its super grippy but yet not too hard core and could easily be driven everyday.

 

 

 

I've heard a lot of good things about the Griggs set up. I have looked into this a little but not sure how far I want to get into it. Right now I was just thinking rear end parts but i guess why not do the whole thing and be done with it... I guess I will look some more in that direction. how difficult is it to install the Griggs set up?

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Those with rear relocation bracket how does this effect the car on the road course? I have heard from some drivers who track their cars with the relo brackets. They have experienced the rear end getting loose when on the brakes in corners? They took them off and the issue went away? Anyone else experience this issue. I have upgraded to billet lowers and was looking at doing the relo brackets as well until I heard this.

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The point of the relocation brackets is that they are adjustable and allow you to set the angle of the control arms. This is important for lowered cars (like ours) so you can get the desired rear end traction. The angle of the control arm will affect the force applied to the rear wheels. Even though they can just be bolted in, they should also be welded to ensure strength if used on the track.

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I've heard a lot of good things about the Griggs set up. I have looked into this a little but not sure how far I want to get into it. Right now I was just thinking rear end parts but i guess why not do the whole thing and be done with it... I guess I will look some more in that direction. how difficult is it to install the Griggs set up?

 

 

Unless you have experience would let the Pros install the Griggs stuff

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