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10" Alcoa w/Dunlop 275/35/20 Sport Maxx GT fits nicely on the front.................


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My 275/35 Sport Maxx tires were finally delivered. I had one mounted on a 10" Alcoa for front fitment on my car.

 

By using the 275/35 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT vs. the original 275/35 Pirelli P Zero on the same 10" Alcoa, almost 1" of tread/contact surface is gained.

 

Both tires pictured below are mounted on a 10" Alcoa

 

275/35 Sport Maxx GT..............

 

010.jpg

 

275/35 P Zero.............

 

011.jpg

 

 

Comparision.............

 

009.jpg

 

275/35 Sport Maxx GT and 10" Alcoa installed............

 

004.jpg

 

I forgot to take a picture while turned to the left.

 

001-4.jpg

 

I felt all close areas when turned full left and full right, no contact. I also rolled the car just in case I missed something, no contact.

 

The finished look with 325/30 Sport maxx GT's mounted on 12" Alcoa's on the rear............

 

013.jpg

011-1.jpg

 

R

Edited by Robert M
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robert , your rear alcoas where widened by who , and your front rims are originally your rear ones ?

 

 

 

Weldcraft in MI did mine, and there is also another person named Eric who widens on the west coast.

 

Yes the 10" are the original rear Alcoas moved to the front, glad I did not use them for widening to 12".

 

R

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Weldcraft in MI did mine, and there is also another person named Eric who widens on the west coast.

 

Yes the 10" are the original rear Alcoas moved to the front, glad I did not use them for widening to 12".

 

R

 

robert, i had my alcoas powdercoated blk, would i have to re-powdercoat them, did you have to re-polish yours , was the finish damaged in any way,and if you could give me the telephone # in MI for the guys who widened yours, thank you

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robert, i had my alcoas powdercoated blk, would i have to re-powdercoat them, did you have to re-polish yours , was the finish damaged in any way,and if you could give me the telephone # in MI for the guys who widened yours, thank you

 

Looks great. What size tire in the back?

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Looks really good.

 

Now, time to get one of those really nice Shelby covers with your CSM # on it.

 

biggrin.gif

 

 

 

Thanks Van.

 

 

I have been using the factory ford cover, BUT I do have a correct original SPP Super Snake striped cover for my car, it is still sealed in its original box (and no CSM number). one day it might get used.

 

R

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Looks great. What size tire in the back?

 

 

It is the Dunlop 325/30/20 on a 12" Alcoa.

 

If you have a weak heart, you will want to be sitting down when you see the price of the 325/30/20 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT tire. The Sport Maxx's shown in these pictures are still "on-loan" to me for fitment purposes, now I will need to make the choice to move away from the 275/35 and 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's, or not.

 

I still have the PS2's on the right side for comparision purposes.

 

 

 

R

Edited by Robert M
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robert, i had my alcoas powdercoated blk, would i have to re-powdercoat them, did you have to re-polish yours , was the finish damaged in any way,and if you could give me the telephone # in MI for the guys who widened yours, thank you

 

 

I have not repolished the wheels. Weldcraft smoothed the welds on the inner area of each wheel, but that is it.

 

 

Here is Weldcrafts link.

 

http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/

 

Here is Eric's link.

 

http://www.ericvaughnmachine.com/

 

R

Edited by Robert M
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It is the Dunlop 325/30/20 on a 12" Alcoa.

If you have a weak heart, you will want to be sitting down when you see the price of the 325/30/20 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT tire. The Sport Maxx's shown in these pictures are still "on-loan" to me for fitment purposes, now I will need to make the choice to move away from the 275/35 and 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's, or not.

 

 

Okay Robert, I'm sitting down.

I don't have a weak heart (that I know of) but I've been known to have a weak rectum and I figure if I'm sitting down, I'm less likely to let a wet one get out! <lol>

 

So go ahead..."hit me" <cringe>.

And hopefully with a Ace since I'm holding two face cards already.

 

 

Robert, I have questions on a closely related subject:

With all of the different wheel widening threads we've seen here on TS forums over the past few years (TONS of them that I can remember) I'd like to get straight to the bottom line and ask you something.

 

I personally DO NOT want to remove the dust covers from my shocks but more importantly, remove the bump-stops. I *would* consider dumping the shock dust covers without much arm bending but the bump stops will NOT come off, no matter what...well, everyone has their "line in the sand". I did see one VERY CLEAN removal that I might consider but being able to bring my car back to 100% stock and ORIGINAL is of the utmost importance to me. The one I did see that I *might* consider (and that's a very big "MIGHT") was the guy that just drilled the spot welds out of the stops and did VERY minimal body damage and/or bump-stop damage in the process (I don't remember who it was but a photo essay was posted). In other words, it would be *real* easy to weld the OE bumpstops back into place without it looking like it had been R&R'd the way he removed his. I might could deal with that.

 

I know you've researched about every option and avenue avaliable out there (because I've watched you do it) so I figure if anyone would have the anwers to ALL four options I will consider (see below), it would be you. I know Lee is the "Godfather" (Grandfather?) of the wheel widening trend but IIRC, his intent was to go AS WIDE AS POSSIBLE regardless of the consequences which made it imparitive for him to remove the dust cover *and* the bump-stops (Lee, as far as I'm concerned you (or anyone else with the knowledge) are very welcome to jump in here at any time!).

 

Here's the deal; I am *thinking* (and seriously, it is just a THOUGHT at this point in time) of finding a PAIR of 20" (9" OR 10" would work) Alcoa Dura-Brights for the rear of my car, having them widened as far as I can go (up to a point, see below) and then running them with the 18" KR Alco Dura-Bright wheels up front, but with a lower profile on the 18's (one that would match the rear in profile aspect) in order to get that "real" staggered look (not just different width, but diameter too).

 

And no, before anyone jumps on that definition or for those that want to give me the definition of "Real (true) Stagger", I do not mean stagger in the same context as a oval track car with taller tires on the outside than on the inside. Been there done that and have the trophy's and titles to prove that I *know* what stagger is (just to get that out of the way before the thread heads off on a tangent).

 

So, the BOTTOM LINE is: What is the *widest* Tire & Wheel (Alcoa Dura-Bright ONLY) combo you can run on the back of a GT500 with:

 

A). Standard size (20"x10") Alcoa Dura-Bright 10-spoke "Super Snake" style wheel:

 

B ). NOTHING REMOVED, wheel widened:

 

C). SHOCK DUST COVER REMOVED, wheel widened:

 

D). DUST COVER *AND* BUMPSTOP REMOVED, wheel widened:

 

 

For me personally, if the difference (in *TIRE* width) between having a dust cover in place and not having one in place is minimal, I won't remove it.

 

If the difference is substantial, it's GONE LIKE THE WIND! Well, what is "substantial"? I honestly don't know but I will know when I hear it. My terminal objective/goal is to run the widest rear tire possible with the least unreversable modifications (other than the wheel widening) possible.

 

And for the record, THANK YOU for all of your help, information, time, effort and money you have put into this project. It is guys like you and Lee N. (and I know there's a BUNCH of others included too) that so all the work to blaze the trail for guys like me...guys that just don't have the time, the effort or the motivation to deal with it.

 

 

Thanks again,

Phill Pollard - Co. Springs, CO

2010 GT500 Coupe

Edited by 2010KonaBlueGT
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Here is Eric's link.

http://www.ericvaughnmachine.com/

 

 

Boy, now THAT is slick. I was wondering how he got away with a single weld and couldn't for the life of me think how he did it. Once I read it, it was a DOH! moment.

 

For the (reletively) minimal difference in price, I think if I do what I'm thinking about doing, Eric will get my money. And I don't care about removing the bead from the weld. If someone is close enough to my car to notice it, they are TOO damn close as far as I'm concerned!

 

I'd rather have the added strength then remove the material.

 

And did you notice that he uses a machine welder? A machine weld is about as PERFECT a weld as you can get.

 

NO Human has a steady enough hand to duplicate a machine weld and I'm speaking from personal experience in gas welding, stick (AC and/or DC) welding, wire (Mig) welding and Hi-Freq (i.e. Tig) welding.

 

Every time I see a machine weld I'll sit there and examine (stare at) it for minutes. I'm just amazed at how good a machine weld is.

 

Having said that, there is *nothing* wrong with having two welds vs. one weld. In theroy, the WELD (done right!) is the strongest part of the material. If a weld breaks, it was welded wrong. BUT...the area next to the weld can become weak (or brittle) from the "heat treatment" the metal gets in the welding process.

 

I was taught by a certified welder...and when they get tested for certification all of their welds get examined with a X-ray machine to see flaws that are within the weld. The guy that taught me came about as close to a machine weld as I've ever seen but still......"close but no cigar"!

 

 

Just more trivia for folks to digest,

Phill Pollard

Edited by 2010KonaBlueGT
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Okay Robert, I'm sitting down.

I don't have a weak heart (that I know of) but I've been known to have a weak rectum and I figure if I'm sitting down, I'm less likely to let a wet one get out! <lol>

 

So go ahead..."hit me" <cringe>.

And hopefully with a Ace since I'm holding two face cards already.

 

 

Robert, I have questions on a closely related subject:

With all of the different wheel widening threads we've seen here on TS forums over the past few years (TONS of them that I can remember) I'd like to get straight to the bottom line and ask you something.

 

I personally DO NOT want to remove the dust covers from my shocks but more importantly, remove the bump-stops. I *would* consider dumping the shock dust covers without much arm bending but the bump stops will NOT come off, no matter what...well, everyone has their "line in the sand". I did see one VERY CLEAN removal that I might consider but being able to bring my car back to 100% stock and ORIGINAL is of the utmost importance to me. The one I did see that I *might* consider (and that's a very big "MIGHT") was the guy that just drilled the spot welds out of the stops and did VERY minimal body damage and/or bump-stop damage in the process (I don't remember who it was but a photo essay was posted). In other words, it would be *real* easy to weld the OE bumpstops back into place without it looking like it had been R&R'd the way he removed his. I might could deal with that.

 

I know you've researched about every option and avenue avaliable out there (because I've watched you do it) so I figure if anyone would have the anwers to ALL four options I will consider (see below), it would be you. I know Lee is the "Godfather" (Grandfather?) of the wheel widening trend but IIRC, his intent was to go AS WIDE AS POSSIBLE regardless of the consequences which made it imparitive for him to remove the dust cover *and* the bump-stops (Lee, as far as I'm concerned you (or anyone else with the knowledge) are very welcome to jump in here at any time!).

 

Here's the deal; I am *thinking* (and seriously, it is just a THOUGHT at this point in time) of finding a PAIR of 20" (9" OR 10" would work) Alcoa Dura-Brights for the rear of my car, having them widened as far as I can go (up to a point, see below) and then running them with the 18" KR Alco Dura-Bright wheels up front, but with a lower profile on the 18's (one that would match the rear in profile aspect) in order to get that "real" staggered look (not just different width, but diameter too).

 

And no, before anyone jumps on that definition or for those that want to give me the definition of "Real (true) Stagger", I do not mean stagger in the same context as a oval track car with taller tires on the outside than on the inside. Been there done that and have the trophy's and titles to prove that I *know* what stagger is (just to get that out of the way before the thread heads off on a tangent).

 

So, the BOTTOM LINE is: What is the *widest* Tire & Wheel (Alcoa Dura-Bright ONLY) combo you can run on the back of a GT500 with:

 

A). Standard size (20"x10") Alcoa Dura-Bright 10-spoke "Super Snake" style wheel:

 

B). NOTHING REMOVED, wheel widened:

 

C). SHOCK DUST COVER REMOVED, wheel widened:

 

D). DUST COVER *AND* BUMPSTOP REMOVED, wheel widened:

 

 

For me personally, if the difference (in *TIRE* width) between having a dust cover in place and not having one in place is minimal, I won't remove it.

 

If the difference is substantial, it's GONE LIKE THE WIND! Well, what is "substantial"? I honestly don't know but I will know when I hear it. My terminal objective/goal is to run the widest rear tire possible with the least unreversable modifications (other than the wheel widening) possible.

 

And for the record, THANK YOU for all of your help, information, time, effort and money you have put into this project. It is guys like you and Lee N. (and I know there's a BUNCH of others included too) that so all the work to blaze the trail for guys like me...guys that just don't have the time, the effort or the motivation to deal with it.

 

 

Thanks again,

Phill Pollard - Co. Springs, CO

2010 GT500 Coupe

 

 

Phill - The "weak heart" comment is only related to the cost of the 325/30 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT's. When I heard $800ea. plus either shipping of each, or tax on each, that made me sit down when I know that I can buy a tire slightly smaller, but just as capable 315/30, or a tire slightly larger 335/30 for half + or - that price, and I don't even have a weak heart (knock on plastic). That is the weak heart comment in a nut shell.

 

As for the questions, I can only answer what I have experience with, and a 11" Alcoa was not going to provide the width needed for the tires that I wanted for the rear of this car. That being said, an 11" Alcoa would "probably" answer question A with maybe a 305 tire?

 

The shock boot is going to have to be removed or cut with anything over a 305 from what I have seen/read, if the Alcoa is your choice. I totally removed mine so that in the future, if I choose, it can be re-installed without much trouble.

 

 

 

There is a metal spacer in the top of the plastic boot, it pops out and needs to be re-installed on the shaft for proper spacing.

 

001-5.jpg

 

The spacer re-installed on the shaft under the washer............

 

009-1.jpg

 

 

 

The best thing was for me to jack the car up and take some pictures. Just for you Phill...............just kidding!!

 

Below, my GT500 body is supported and my rear suspension is hanging. The inside of the 12" Alcoa's are resting on the bumpstop brackets. If you feel that your driving is going to get your car in a position to drop the rear axle out this much, then the brackets are going to have to be removed. I have not encountered any situation where my rear tires get into this dropped position, not even on my 45 degree "turn up into" incline driveway.

 

The 325/30 Sport Maxx GT........................

 

003-2.jpg

 

The 335/30 Michelin PS2....................

 

004-1.jpg

 

The pictures above are an approx. 4.5" drop from the fender lip to the tread surface.

 

If you feel that your driving circumstances are going to get into a position as shown above (one tire or both), then the bumpstop bracket will have to be removed with the Alcoa's widened to 12", 11.75" and most likely 11.50", but I do not know about the 11.50" for sure.

 

****************and yes Thank You Lee N. for all of the initial research on the widening of the Alcoa's********************

 

R

Edited by Robert M
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