07SGT5687 Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Does anyone know if instructions exist for the the Baer Extreme Plus front brakes? I know it's pretty straight forward, but I still always like to hear from the horses mouth exactly how it's supposed to be done. And maybe some torque specs... oh, and what the 2 included clips are for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 can someone please tell me where these 3 sets of pieces go? lol... but seriously... EDIT: 1. Rubber plugs are for plugging the hard brake line until the new braided line can be installed after removing the OEM rubber line. 2. One each of these washers go between the bolt and the caliper mounting bracket when mounted to the spindle. This keeps the bolt at a shallower than stock depth so as to keep the bolts from coming through and rubbing against the rotor. 3. The clips are for mounting the new braided brake lines into the provided mounting brackets. Mount the bracket, bring the braided line up through the bottom of the bracket and apply the clip to the top side with the "folded" end pointing down, essentially "hanging" the line tightly in the bracket. Then connect OEM hard brake line. Probably common sense to some, but it was not to me without the directions. Oh and can/should you use locktite on brake threads (lines, bleeders, etc.) or is that a no-no? I could understand that being a no-no at risk of it entering the caliper or clogging a line, but I thought I'd ask anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Oh and do the old dust shields come off? The Baer kit didn't come with any... ? Instruction sure what have been nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I was seriously considering adding speed bleeders to my Brembos but decided to leave them off. Two weeks ago when I visited my local track and asked insane amount of questions and was advised that in my situation it is not needed reason being that I am not doing enough runs to abuse the brakes beyond excessive conditions requiring a full flush afterwards, secondly, there will always be someone there in the paddocks to help with a basic bleed if need to, and that I will need to keep on top of the bleeders by putting thread sealer on those things because air can get introduced into the system. So, I was instructed to look into the motive bleeding systems which comes out to be about the same as if you buy 6 bleeders, 2 rears, 4 fronts, well atleast 4 for the brembos, I'm not sure about your set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I'm no expert on the Extremes, but after mine were installed, the mechanic said he didn't use the two rubber plugs and my original dust shields were returned with my old calipers and rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I'm no expert on the Extremes, but after mine were installed, the mechanic said he didn't use the two rubber plugs and my original dust shields were returned with my old calipers and rotors. Thanks. Ya, I found a Saleen 6 piston caliper install. Looks just about the same and they said to scrap the dust shields too. Looks to me like the rubber plugs are to plug the metal brake line once you remove the rubber line. At least thats what I'm using them for at the moment. Look to me like the washers were to shorten the depth of the caliper bracket bolts which appear to be too long without them. Again, thats what it seems like. Still not exactly sure what the silver clip is for but it appears to be something along the lines of a retaining clip for the braided line into the bracket. Not sure exactly how it's supposed to sit though. Also... while I'm at it... does anyone happen to have a pic of which bolt is the bolt I need to replace to install my Ingalls Fastcam Camber bolts? Might as well do that while I've got this torn apart. Off to wash the rotors (didn't know I needed to do that either... thanks Saleen... wish Baer would have sent some directions). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAD SNAKE Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Here's a good contact for info for your brakes, Rick Elam [RickE@baer.com], nice guy! I'm following your post, I'll be installing mine in a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown Away Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Any other interesting info you found out? I'm installing mine tomorrow. I've never heard of washing the rotors before. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Here's a good contact for info for your brakes, Rick Elam [RickE@baer.com], nice guy! I'm following your post, I'll be installing mine in a week or so. Thanks. I talked to Rick this morning. Think I'll being giving him a call with a couple more questions in the morning. Front brakes are all stripped down and the Baer brackets are in placed and torqued (55-60ft/lb) according to Saleen (not sure if it's the same, but it's better that what Baer told me... nothing... or "snug"). Still hoping to figure out which bolt I need to replace for the camber bolts too. Didn't mean for this to be a "write up" on the install or I would have been much for step by step and precise. Besides, I figure doing something for the first time is not very conducive to "giving" a tutorial. But I'll be happy to offer any advice anyone may have in the future... once I figure this out. More tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Well, now upon reading further (at the end of the Saleen write up), it says plated rotors to not need to be washed, only bare metal ones. However the picture does show then washing plated ones, but w/e. Not much more I can think of at this point. 55-60 lbs. on the bracket bolts, 40 lbs. on the caliper bolts, 8-14 lbs. on the bleeder screws.... this all according to the Saleen write up and may vary with the Baer's but again, the appear to be a fairly similar setup and it's better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 btw, here is a link to the Saleen write up (too big to attach). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Okay, well I didn't get to talk with Rick today (could have if I was a lil more patient...), but a guy named Dutch sent me the instructions for the Baer Extreme Plus Front. Let me just say it has MUCH to be desired over the Saleen instructions, but it does answer most of my questions and should be adequate when used in combination with the Saleen instructions. Torque specs are bit tighter on the Baer's so I'll have to ratchet them down a bit more, but other than that I should be able to finish them off tonight... as long as I get get the camber bolt thing figured out. One more time... anyone want to walk me through that one? Pretty hesitant to start messing with alignment parts. Attached are the Baer Instructions. Baer EP 6S Instructions.pdf Baer EP 6S Instructions.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 If you still want dust plates or even upgraded ones with an air duct kit..... might not be a bad idea for your increased track time you want to do....... http://www.shelbystore.com/Shelby-GT500-Brake-Duct-kit-p/s7m-2005-c.htm .....spend more money........ but you gotta pay to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 If you still want dust plates or even upgraded ones with an air duct kit..... might not be a bad idea for your increased track time you want to do....... http://www.shelbystore.com/Shelby-GT500-Brake-Duct-kit-p/s7m-2005-c.htm .....spend more money........ but you gotta pay to Way ahead of ya... just waiting to hear if they will work for an SGT... Can't imagine why they wouldn't but want to make sure before I order. Great price on those too btw... I expected them to be more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Way ahead of ya... just waiting to hear if they will work for an SGT... Can't imagine why they wouldn't but want to make sure before I order. Great price on those too btw... I expected them to be more. Should be no problem. They use the same spindle. When I put the GT500 Brembo's on my car, I used new GT500 backing plates and they are exactly the same, just bigger. So these should bolt up just fine. You would just need to find where you want to put the tubes behind your center grille probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UK PONY Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Hadn't seen those brake dust shields - still have the stockers behind the Baers on my CS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown Away Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Jr hope you don't mind me adding to your post. Got mine all installed today!! :happy feet: :happy feet: First side was a learning process, second side a breeze...lol Thanks Alex for your help & advice. And yes, the pics show different sides...lol Dan Before New vs. old w/out wheel All done!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 By all means I don't mind! My post was pretty much a cry for help... NOT a tutorial! The more info and documentation of successful install the better! With all the folks that probably recently bought these, the more info the better! Lookin good Dan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiPerGT500 Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 By all means I don't mind! My post was pretty much a cry for help... NOT a tutorial! The more info and documentation of successful install the better! With all the folks that probably recently bought these, the more info the better! Lookin good Dan! Plus 1 here....have a set sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. Little apprehensive until I get a better feel for the whole process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT5687 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 Hadn't seen those brake dust shields - still have the stockers behind the Baers on my CS. Hmmm, might want to take a closer look behind there... When I fit the new rotors up against the stock sheilds, it pushed the shield back about 1/8"-1/4". I think the Baer rotors are thicker and hence sit deeper, essentially pressing up again the dust shield. Both write ups and instructions I've read so far actually say to remove the dust shields and not replace them. I could be wrong but they might be trapping an unnecessary amount of heat in there too... but that might be a stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiPerGT500 Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 I see in the GT500 modifications section, brakes and suspension, that there are a couple having trouble with the brakes leaking through the bleeders. Have any of you guys experienced that? Said that they had to really torque them to stop the leaking, to the point they worried they might strip the caliper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown Away Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 I see in the GT500 modifications section, brakes and suspension, that there are a couple having trouble with the brakes leaking through the bleeders. Have any of you guys experienced that? Said that they had to really torque them to stop the leaking, to the point they worried they might strip the caliper Like previously said, you just have to really tighten them down real good. Why it is like that I don't know. You'd think that they could come up with something that tightens a little easier. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parshal Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 If you still want dust plates or even upgraded ones with an air duct kit..... might not be a bad idea for your increased track time you want to do....... I wish I'd have seen this brake cooling kit before I installed my FRPP one. I've got to cut and bend the FRPP one to work with the Baers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COBRA SCOTTY Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 I wish I'd have seen this brake cooling kit before I installed my FRPP one. I've got to cut and bend the FRPP one to work with the Baers! That's ok if you did for many of us had trimmed or just bent back the stock dust sheilds when adding the front Baer big brake package. Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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