Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

10% pulley and exhaust


Recommended Posts

Okay I was getting ready to make the purchase of a new 10% overdrive pulley and header back exhaust but I have a couple concerns. With the pulley, say IW's 10% OD pulley, I'm concerned that it is more than just a pulley swap. I have heard of alternator issues, block shaving issues and such. I talked to a couple different companies that we are all VERY familiar with and some said yes to those concerns and others said they have done dozens and dozens of 10% pulley swaps and not a single issue. Has anyone DONE this swap on their '10? Any input?

 

Exhaust I ran into the exact same flip flop comments. Some establishments said major problems putting in header back exhaust. Some said wont pass emissions, some said will have to tune out the O2 sensor light, some said no noticeable difference from factory to aftermarket so dont worry about doing it.

 

 

The skinny of it is, I am closing in on the last I can do when it comes to bolt ons. I'm at 535 RWHP on a mustang dyno, would like to boost it up a touch more and the 4 PSI from the pulley would be sweet. I would like a little more exhaust tone than my Magnaflow axle back gives, and added HP would be a bonus; if i can get that from a set of Kook's headers and high flow cats then thats what I would like to do. I get 20 MPG in and around town and beings this is a daily driver I would like to try and stay near that. (if it changes by 1 MPG no biggy, if it changes by 5 mpg then not worth it sadly as i do have to drive 40+ miles a day 5 days a week)

 

So if anyone has some input i really would appreciate. And if someone in washington state has done these (specifically the exhaust) and still passes emissions like it was factory) i would greatly appreciate that. If i cannot pass emissions with exhaust upgrades then it is absolutely a no go.

 

I guess that is about it. Im at a loss right now if i should try to go ahead with either of these but man i sure would love to put them both on and try and push towards 600 RWHP!

 

 

Nic

Edited by mustanggt500
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did ford racing ceranic coated shorty headers looks great not much of a sound difference, put corsa sport axle backs got a little more sound, what made the big difference in sound was the lethal performance mid pipe with high flow cats now it sounds like a shelby,as far as hp from any headers is bs maybe 5-10 if your lucky , had mine inspected here in ny no issues , if you want 600 plus hp you need a whipple blower, your not going ther with a pulley and tune

Edited by BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay I was getting ready to make the purchase of a new 10% overdrive pulley and header back exhaust but I have a couple concerns. With the pulley, say IW's 10% OD pulley, I'm concerned that it is more than just a pulley swap. I have heard of alternator issues, block shaving issues and such. I talked to a couple different companies that we are all VERY familiar with and some said yes to those concerns and others said they have done dozens and dozens of 10% pulley swaps and not a single issue. Has anyone DONE this swap on their '10? Any input?

 

Exhaust I ran into the exact same flip flop comments. Some establishments said major problems putting in header back exhaust. Some said wont pass emissions, some said will have to tune out the O2 sensor light, some said no noticeable difference from factory to aftermarket so dont worry about doing it.

 

 

The skinny of it is, I am closing in on the last I can do when it comes to bolt ons. I'm at 535 RWHP on a mustang dyno, would like to boost it up a touch more and the 4 PSI from the pulley would be sweet. I would like a little more exhaust tone than my Magnaflow axle back gives, and added HP would be a bonus; if i can get that from a set of Kook's headers and high flow cats then thats what I would like to do. I get 20 MPG in and around town and beings this is a daily driver I would like to try and stay near that. (if it changes by 1 MPG no biggy, if it changes by 5 mpg then not worth it sadly as i do have to drive 40+ miles a day 5 days a week)

 

So if anyone has some input i really would appreciate. And if someone in washington state has done these (specifically the exhaust) and still passes emissions like it was factory) i would greatly appreciate that. If i cannot pass emissions with exhaust upgrades then it is absolutely a no go.

 

I guess that is about it. Im at a loss right now if i should try to go ahead with either of these but man i sure would love to put them both on and try and push towards 600 RWHP!

 

 

Nic

 

 

Do the pulley. I just did a 2.59" pulley on my 2010 GT500 and it was worth every dime. VMP was the way to go for me. I am now considering a 10% balancer due to the great gains I got from the pulley.

 

Let us know how it goes for you!

Edited by mlct68
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went with Dyna Tech LT's with high flow cats and Alex's MMS Mufflers and it sounds awesome, the headers were a pain as I installed them using jack stands, if you go this route PM me and I can give you some pointers to help you out with the install.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BLUE: When NY inspects is it just a visual or do they plug into the car and the tailpipe sensor and the whole 9 yards like that? Washington state they plug the car in. I was told by a couple of the big mustang parts shops we all use from the forums here and was led to believe I wouldnt pass. That is my major hang up, and I am not sure how to verify it without making the purchase, doing the swap and going to get tested. Awful expensive and time consuming way to be told i fail emissions and have to face the wife! And yes i realize i wont get 600 without doing away with the factory 'charger, but i would like to "bolt on" as close as i can while keeping my mileage and emissions passing ability lol.

 

KAWWY600: Not sure to tell you the truth. I hear that a lot from people. But i drive 40+ miles a day; 20 to and 20 from work. 8 stoplights and i dont know how many stop signs. Speed limits from 25-55. Then while at work its 25-35 with nothing but lights and stop signs packed into every corner and street you go down. But sure enough when i hit the station every 6 days i'm at 20 mpg. (miles divided by gallons put in which is usually about 245 miles and 12.3ish gallons.) Lucky motor build? good tune/mod combo? dunno but i like it for a daily driver and todays 92 octane prices in Washington state.

 

MLTC68: I have done the upper pulley, and about everything else i can up top, which is why i am leaning to the lower 10% pulley if i can verify the block shaving question and blowing out alternators (and possible solution if that is true).

 

ALASKA: I may be doing the swap the same way unless i have enough money left over from my shop being build this week at my house. If i have some, im going to try and swing buying a lift and installing it after i put UCoat down on my floor!

 

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BLUE: When NY inspects is it just a visual or do they plug into the car and the tailpipe sensor and the whole 9 yards like that? Washington state they plug the car in. I was told by a couple of the big mustang parts shops we all use from the forums here and was led to believe I wouldnt pass. That is my major hang up, and I am not sure how to verify it without making the purchase, doing the swap and going to get tested. Awful expensive and time consuming way to be told i fail emissions and have to face the wife! And yes i realize i wont get 600 without doing away with the factory 'charger, but i would like to "bolt on" as close as i can while keeping my mileage and emissions passing ability lol.

 

KAWWY600: Not sure to tell you the truth. I hear that a lot from people. But i drive 40+ miles a day; 20 to and 20 from work. 8 stoplights and i dont know how many stop signs. Speed limits from 25-55. Then while at work its 25-35 with nothing but lights and stop signs packed into every corner and street you go down. But sure enough when i hit the station every 6 days i'm at 20 mpg. (miles divided by gallons put in which is usually about 245 miles and 12.3ish gallons.) Lucky motor build? good tune/mod combo? dunno but i like it for a daily driver and todays 92 octane prices in Washington state.

 

MLTC68: I have done the upper pulley, and about everything else i can up top, which is why i am leaning to the lower 10% pulley if i can verify the block shaving question and blowing out alternators (and possible solution if that is true).

 

ALASKA: I may be doing the swap the same way unless i have enough money left over from my shop being build this week at my house. If i have some, im going to try and swing buying a lift and installing it after i put UCoat down on my floor!

 

Nic

 

 

Nice I cant wait to build my shop, you need to take that car out to spanaway speedway I grew up down by Centralia.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You only need to grind about an 8th or 3/16" off of a small aluminum tab protruding from the front cover to the left of the pulley, this does not harm anything. A file will do it, a dremel is faster.

If you look at the GT500 belt routing diagram you will notice the the belt drinving the SC pully does no drive the alternator. Changing to the 10% IW will not drive your alternator faster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only accessory driven by the same pulley as the supercharger is the A/C compressor. Other than Van's car (Revan Racing) I haven't heard of anyone toasting an A/C compressor and there are quite a few people running the IW 10% lower. Van was probably going dam near 200 MPH when his compressor went and his car makes over 1000 RWHP.... You should be fine with the lower, I'm getting ready to put one on mine very soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

enormous: I'll have to take a look at that after i post this. I didnt even think to look i just took word of mouth "oooh better watch out doing that because of 'X'" grumble. thanks for the advice!

 

PistolWhip: When do you plan on doing the lower swap? Be very cool to have some pics and tips/advice of someone that is doing this to a 10.

 

 

 

 

After some talk and looking into things, think i am just going to do the 10% pulley. Too many concerns with doing the headers back here in Washington state. damn liberals. :hysterical:

 

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But sure enough when i hit the station every 6 days i'm at 20 mpg. (miles divided by gallons put in which is usually about 245 miles and 12.3ish gallons.) Lucky motor build? good tune/mod combo? dunno but i like it for a daily driver and todays 92 octane prices in Washington state.

 

my computer shows 16mpg,,i reset it after every fill up. then again im using 91 octane, so 92 could make the difference

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iv'e got some questions here. I know that changing the S/C pully to the 2.6 will give about 4lbs additional boost and requires a tune. But, how much would you gain if you just did the lower 10% and would you need a tune? Also, with the 2.6 change, how much more boost, above 4lbs, will the additional 10% lower give you and would that require a modified tune? And, last question for now, at what point would the throttle body need to be swapped so as not to choke the air flow?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

if any 2011+ owners plan on upgrading their lower pulley, then read this...

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66453-2011-owners-with-lower-pulley-upgrade-must-read/

 

 

 

Boy that was a buzz kill. I was hoping to here more info on the aggregate gains from both the 10% and 2.6 pulley vs just the 2.6. Have the 10% sitting in a box on the shelf waiting to go in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10% IW installed here. Check VMP's website for a nice install write-up. The install is pretty straight forward the hardest part for me was finding the right puller. I ended up going with the one from Summit racing and it worked great. Also, I would make sure to get some of the motorcraft silicon sealer to prevent any oil leaks at the bolt. Due to no dyno's around me I'm not sure of the HP gains but I do routinely see the boost gauge hitting 15 on the dial (I have a 2.59 upper too and live in the cool PNW air)

 

Best of luck,

 

DaFreak

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay I was getting ready to make the purchase of a new 10% overdrive pulley and header back exhaust but I have a couple concerns. With the pulley, say IW's 10% OD pulley, I'm concerned that it is more than just a pulley swap. I have heard of alternator issues, block shaving issues and such. I talked to a couple different companies that we are all VERY familiar with and some said yes to those concerns and others said they have done dozens and dozens of 10% pulley swaps and not a single issue. Has anyone DONE this swap on their '10? Any input?

 

Exhaust I ran into the exact same flip flop comments. Some establishments said major problems putting in header back exhaust. Some said wont pass emissions, some said will have to tune out the O2 sensor light, some said no noticeable difference from factory to aftermarket so dont worry about doing it.

 

 

The skinny of it is, I am closing in on the last I can do when it comes to bolt ons. I'm at 535 RWHP on a mustang dyno, would like to boost it up a touch more and the 4 PSI from the pulley would be sweet. I would like a little more exhaust tone than my Magnaflow axle back gives, and added HP would be a bonus; if i can get that from a set of Kook's headers and high flow cats then thats what I would like to do. I get 20 MPG in and around town and beings this is a daily driver I would like to try and stay near that. (if it changes by 1 MPG no biggy, if it changes by 5 mpg then not worth it sadly as i do have to drive 40+ miles a day 5 days a week)

 

So if anyone has some input i really would appreciate. And if someone in washington state has done these (specifically the exhaust) and still passes emissions like it was factory) i would greatly appreciate that. If i cannot pass emissions with exhaust upgrades then it is absolutely a no go.

 

I guess that is about it. Im at a loss right now if i should try to go ahead with either of these but man i sure would love to put them both on and try and push towards 600 RWHP!

 

 

Nic

 

I have did 5 of these all 07-09 but I did 1 2010 all worked great you just have to remove a little material for the bigger I/W 10% to clear very easy to do and a great mod I have had no issues at all . check the vmp tuning site he has a detailed install guide on this . 428cj
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boy that was a buzz kill. I was hoping to here more info on the aggregate gains from both the 10% and 2.6 pulley vs just the 2.6. Have the 10% sitting in a box on the shelf waiting to go in.

 

 

no worries, just have your local dealer perform the ssm/relearn after your lower pullet installed. I havent had a single misfire code since i left the dealer. good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...
...