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retok3876
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Hello, i have a Shelby GT 500 (my 2008) lowered with Eibach Sportline Springs (2").

Now i need to change my drive shaft (broken), which is the better?

I need to modify something beacuse the car is lowered?

I thought I would replace with an aluminum but which diameter? 3.5 "or 4"? (remember my car is lowered..)

Thanks to those who can help me!!

Reto (Switzerland)

Edited by retok3876
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Hello, i have a Shelby GT 500 (my 2008) lowered with Eibach Sportline Springs (2").

Now i need to change my drive shaft (broken), which is the better?

I need to modify something beacuse the car is lowered?

I thought I would replace with an aluminum but which diameter? 3.5 "or 4"? (remember my car is lowered..)

Thanks to those who can help me!!

Reto (Switzerland)

 

 

3.5" is best. The 4.0" will hit the tunnel. Dynotech and DSS are two brands that you could consider.

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  • 1 month later...

hi guys,

i already replace my clutch with a Spec SuperTwindisc and the driveshaft with a Dynotech 3.5". My car is lowered with the Eibach Sportline kit .. unfortunately the driveshaft touches the chassis when I make a strong acceleration and with the road falling away a bit!!!!!!! :(:(:(:(:(:(:(

What can i do?!!??

Can i put a spring spacer? Which? Brand?

Edited by retok3876
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hi guys,

i already replace my clutch with a Spec SuperTwindisc and the driveshaft with a Dynotech 3.5". My car is lowered with the Eibach Sportline kit .. unfortunately the driveshaft touches the chassis when I make a strong acceleration and with the road falling away a bit!!!!!!! :(:(:(:(:(:(:(

What can i do?!!??

Can i put a spring spacer? Which? Brand?

 

retok3876 i have the same eibach springs on my 2010 500 and a one piece driveshaft ,under hard accelaration i also had the driveshaft hitting the tunnel in the rear in three places just enough to shine the driveshaft up .make sure your pinion angle is right,also what i did is bought a set of CHE lower control arm relocation brackets ,what they do is put the angle back in the rear control arm like it was before you lowered the car. they also help with traction ,what they really do is under hard accelaration and launches they cause a lifting action in the body of the car instead of squating under accel.I had my car out about ten times since even with more power and traction than before this seamed to take care of the rubbing problem.you also could take the driveshaft off and clearance it where its rubbing in the the tunnel ,but i didn't have to do this. Hope this helps let me know if it does.

 

Thanks Tom

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retok3876 i have the same eibach springs on my 2010 500 and a one piece driveshaft ,under hard accelaration i also had the driveshaft hitting the tunnel in the rear in three places just enough to shine the driveshaft up .make sure your pinion angle is right,also what i did is bought a set of CHE lower control arm relocation brackets ,what they do is put the angle back in the rear control arm like it was before you lowered the car. they also help with traction ,what they really do is under hard accelaration and launches they cause a lifting action in the body of the car instead of squating under accel.I had my car out about ten times since even with more power and traction than before this seamed to take care of the rubbing problem.you also could take the driveshaft off and clearance it where its rubbing in the the tunnel ,but i didn't have to do this. Hope this helps let me know if it does.

 

Thanks Tom

 

Hi Tom,

i have a Panhard bar of BMR mounted. This brand have the

Control Arm Relocation Brackets, Bolt-on

Part#: CAB005Manufacturer: BMR Suspension

 

I have to change the lower control arms or i can maintain the same OE stock arm?

Lower Control Arms, Boxed, DOM, Non-adjustable, Polyurethane Bushings

Part#: TCA019Manufacturer: BMR Suspension

After changing the Relocation bracktes the Driveshaft never can hit the tunnel?

 

Thank you for help me and sorry for my bad english.. (i'm from Switzerland..)

Here in my country we can't buying Mustangs...so there is no one who understands something about mustang!!!!

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I started out with the BMR relocation brackets and the stock lower control arms. The control arms wouldn't fit in the upper holes in the bracket, which is where I wanted them, and even in the lower hole they rubbed on the bracket bolt. I got the BMR adjustable lower control arms. They fit and I like that I have no axle hop. Looking back, the non-adlustables would probably have worked just as well. Your English is better than some of the Americans who post.

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Hi Tom,

i have a Panhard bar of BMR mounted. This brand have the

Control Arm Relocation Brackets, Bolt-on

Part#: CAB005Manufacturer: BMR Suspension

 

I have to change the lower control arms or i can maintain the same OE stock arm?

Lower Control Arms, Boxed, DOM, Non-adjustable, Polyurethane Bushings

Part#: TCA019Manufacturer: BMR Suspension

After changing the Relocation bracktes the Driveshaft never can hit the tunnel?

 

Thank you for help me and sorry for my bad english.. (i'm from Switzerland..)

Here in my country we can't buying Mustangs...so there is no one who understands something about mustang!!!!

 

retok3876 i have the bmr billet non adjustable lower control arms and the bmr adjustable upper control arm wich you can use to adjust your pinion angle , wich can give you more driveshaft to tunnel clearance most guys set theres at -2 to -2.5 ,you should be able get instruction how to do this from your driveshaft manufacture . The lower control relocation bracket help with my rubbing issue not sure if it will help you 100% or not but it definatley will help putting the lower control arm suspension geometry back where it needs to be. also the bmr relocation bracket are about the same as the CHE only difference the bmr are adjustable where you can alter your control arm angle with 3 different mounting holes where the CHE have one hole. hope this helps, let me know how you make out.

 

Thanks Tom

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retok3876 i have the bmr billet non adjustable lower control arms and the bmr adjustable upper control arm wich you can use to adjust your pinion angle , wich can give you more driveshaft to tunnel clearance most guys set theres at -2 to -2.5 ,you should be able get instruction how to do this from your driveshaft manufacture . The lower control relocation bracket help with my rubbing issue not sure if it will help you 100% or not but it definatley will help putting the lower control arm suspension geometry back where it needs to be. also the bmr relocation bracket are about the same as the CHE only difference the bmr are adjustable where you can alter your control arm angle with 3 different mounting holes where the CHE have one hole. hope this helps, let me know how you make out.

 

Thanks Tom

 

 

So, if i understand it I just have to replace the 2 Relocation Brackets and the 2 lower control arm ..thus should no longer hit the driveshaft..

Not need to be adjusted the lower control arm? And not need the upper control arm (adjusted or not..)?

if so thank you all for your valuable help! just done the work I will tell you 'if it worked well..

Reto

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So, if i understand it I just have to replace the 2 Relocation Brackets and the 2 lower control arm ..thus should no longer hit the driveshaft..

Not need to be adjusted the lower control arm? And not need the upper control arm (adjusted or not..)?

if so thank you all for your valuable help! just done the work I will tell you 'if it worked well..

Reto

 

retok3876 the lower non adjustable control arms and the relocation brackets are the way to go along with the adjustable upper control arm so you adjust the pinion angle ,adjusting the angle to manufacture specs will help give you more driveshaft clearance where in hitting on the body or tunnel. These parts will also elimanate wheel hop and help will traction . make sure the driveshaft is not hitting on the emergency brake cable bracket in the tunnel ,if it is just move it a inch or so. doing these modafications should take care of your issues,if not you may have to clearance the tunnel where the shaft is hitting the tunnel,all these cars are just a little different.Hope this helps

 

Thanks tom

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retok3876 the lower non adjustable control arms and the relocation brackets are the way to go along with the adjustable upper control arm so you adjust the pinion angle ,adjusting the angle to manufacture specs will help give you more driveshaft clearance where in hitting on the body or tunnel. These parts will also elimanate wheel hop and help will traction . make sure the driveshaft is not hitting on the emergency brake cable bracket in the tunnel ,if it is just move it a inch or so. doing these modafications should take care of your issues,if not you may have to clearance the tunnel where the shaft is hitting the tunnel,all these cars are just a little different.Hope this helps

 

Thanks tom

 

 

 

Ok, first i try to move the emergency brake cable...if it touch again i make the modifications listed before (lower control arm, adjustable upper control arm and relocation bracket...)

Thank you so much Tom!

 

More news later..

 

Bye

 

Reto

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

hi guys!

i mounted the Relocation Brackets (BMR) without weld, now the Driveshaft NEVER hit the Tunnel!

Thank you at all!

Reto

 

Retok3876 i'm glad you you finally got the issues you were having taken care . i figure the lower control relocation brackets would take care of it ,but all these cars are just a little bit different, did the same thing to mine and it worked for me and i have a 4 inch driveshaft made by The axle Exchange where your dynatech is 3.5 inch

Thanks Tom

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  • 4 weeks later...

hi guys!

i mounted the Relocation Brackets (BMR) without weld, now the Driveshaft NEVER hit the Tunnel!

Thank you at all!

Reto

 

 

You really want to have them welded in before you are too aggresive with the car. Some of the bolt ins have failed without the weld.

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