sgt1020 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Not oil, but oil related. If you change your oil frequently you eventually run the risk of stripping the threads on the oil drain bolt and or the pan. So I use http://www.qwikvalve...CFS6FQAodmltEQw Works great, less mess, quick, etc. I think I may get one. Nice find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Ford not only built the motor but also warranties the motor. But SAI did place a sticker recommending 5W-30 oil. Not all the SGT's received the sticker. Bud, one of the platform planks stated SAI recommended 30 because they knew we would drive the vehicles harder than the average person. FRPP recommends the 30 weight oil. But then again there is not that much difference in viscosity or protection between 20 and 30 weight oil. I think Ford only recommended the 20 weight so as to gain a minute difference in EPA mileage, reportedly 16/100 miles per gallon. I think we will be fine using either 20 or 30 high quality oil. I am probably the only person on the site using ULX oil. I swear by it and so do several race mechanics. It has liquid moly in the oil. I have seen tremendous real world results for this oil. I used to use Amsoil but found it did not hold up to the advertisements, in my opinion, and according to the oil analysis that we had conducted. A wise man on this site once said use very good oil and change it every 2-3 K miles. I agree. Never heard of ULX. What makes it so much better than Amsoil and Royal Purple? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 The oil drain valve actually has two different style bodies. I use the one with the extended nipple and then just connect a clear plastic hose and drain directly into a large plastic container which I take directly to the recycle center. ULX oil has liquid moly so there is less wear, less friction, cooler temperatures, and subsequently higher horsepower. It is a dino oil that is made with uncracked molecules. The other companies, in the refining process, raise the temperature to such extremes as to crack the molecules so as to separate in to the different types of fuels (gas, diesel, byproducts, etc). The oil is fantastic and I have seen real world results of 4.6 engines going way over 200K, under extreme conditions, without wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 The oil drain valve actually has two different style bodies. I use the one with the extended nipple and then just connect a clear plastic hose and drain directly into a large plastic container which I take directly to the recycle center. ULX oil has liquid moly so there is less wear, less friction, cooler temperatures, and subsequently higher horsepower. It is a dino oil that is made with uncracked molecules. The other companies, in the refining process, raise the temperature to such extremes as to crack the molecules so as to separate in to the different types of fuels (gas, diesel, byproducts, etc). The oil is fantastic and I have seen real world results of 4.6 engines going way over 200K, under extreme conditions, without wear. Sounds great to me, although I would want to see the proof and the facts. Their website also doesn't look too professional/legitimate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Seems to me as if there is a lot of snake-oil selling going on out there. You can usually detect it by counting the buzz-word content. Yes, xx-30 oil maintains its design viscosity ("30") at higher temperatures, which ordinarily come with hard driving. Of course xx-20 oil is less viscous at equal temperatures. The difference between them is not dependent so much on temperatures as on the design viscosity. My reading suggests that increased fuel mileage is not the sole motive for Ford's specification of xx-20 oil in its 2005-up 4.6 V8s; there is mention in the literature that clearances and passage sizes were designed to use the "20" oil, and that some functions, such as VCT could be affected by different viscosity oil. Why does the 2005-up 4.0 V6 require xx-30 oil? If xx-20 is responsible for such dramatic increases in fuel efficiency, shouldn't Ford specify it in the V6s? After all, they constitute a much, much bigger segment of the Mustang population than V8s, and would have a much, much greater influence on the CAFE figures, don't you think? This is not to say that using xx-30 oil in your GT engine is a Bad Idea, just that there are design reasons for following the Ford recommendation. There may be performance reasons for using the higher-viscosity oil, but that is another matter, as is the "liquid moly" myth that I first fell for in the early 1960s. If it were worthwhile, wouldn't the auto manufacturers be deep into it by now, this many years later? Have a thought about the Formula Vee racers: I know of a couple who destroyed numerous transmissions in determining what was the absolute lowest viscosity lubricant they could use and have the gearbox survive a twenty-minute race, then a thirty-minute race, then a forty-minute race. In a class so rule-bound that half a horsepower to the ground could mean five places in the results, that kind of shaving advantages paid off. In a three-hundred-horsepower vehicle, it likely wouldn't, but the effect is there. Equal otherwise, my xx-20-lubed racer is going to be faster than your lubed-by-xx-30. And in ordinary conditions, equally reliable for an equal amount of use. Might be time to read up on the Fish carburetter, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodoo Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 ROYAL PURPLE HERE. ALL FLUIDS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 you, and others, certainly have the right to be skeptical. And no I can not offer charts, graphs, and studies per se. What I did see was 4.6 2v engines with nearly 200+ K miles that with pristine cleanliness on the inside. There was never a problem with any engine internal. After ten years, and about 30 different vehicles, I asked the mechanic to finally take off a valve cover so we could look inside the engine. It was perfectly clean. We used the ULX oil and motorcraft filters and changed every 5 K miles. Again, extreme service. The same mechanic had a reputation for building fantastic race engines, some as big as 700 cid. When he dynoed the engines he gained HP and torque when using the ULX oil. He, and the developer of the oil, told me it contained liquid moly to reduce friction and wear. I have seen additives such as graphite and even teflon, both of which settle out when the oil stands. The moly does not settle out. And there are issues with synthetic oil, it is not perfect. I would never leave it in an engine, regardless of filter, for the 20-30,000 miles they recommend. And there have been lawsuits against Mobil 1 for damage, heat related, to air cooled aircraft engines. And Mobil 1 fails the Series IV test for wear. So, again, synthetics are not perfect. We tried switching to Amsoil as a cost reduction and experienced a problem with an engine. I cannot prove it was the amsoil at fault. But. We also had the oil analyzed every 5 K miles and it did not last as long as amsoil stated it should. And the analysis was done by the lab that amsoil recommended. And there are those that suggest/believe that synthetic oil does not break down because it does not absorb the heat in the same manner as conventional or synthetic blends. In the end we all have to make the best decision with the available information and live with it. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 http://www.ulx110.com/2.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodoo Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Royal Purple all the way. I have it in my engine, tranny and differential. Same with my wife's Challenger. Always have, always will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadfoot 5.4 Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 Im using castrol 5-50 oil in both my 07sgt and 08 gt-500, my 07 sgt has a paxton s/c at 15 lbs boost. with gt-500 injectors, throttle body, maf sensor, and fuel pumps. I figured that since I have alot of gt-500 parts in her, i might as well use the same oil as my 08 gt-500. On a plus side, both car uses the same motorcraft filter and same oil, shopping is a little easier. No problems at all, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 I don't know why oil threads get so much attention. It's possibly the easiest choice to make. Ford recommends 5W20 in our cars not because of gas mileage or anything like that. It's due to the clearances in the engine. I ran 5W20 when I had the stock motor because that's what Ford recommended. JDM recommended I use 5W30 in my 302 stroker so that's what I run now. Listen to the people who built your engine folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 I personally would not use 50 in the SGT. You may have some GT 500 parts but those (paxton, injectors, throttle body, maf, fuel pumps, etc) are external. The side clearances and other clearances are designed for a much lighter (read thinner) oil. Unless you have rebuilt the bottom end , and it was designed for a heavier oil, I would use 20 or 30 at the most. A lot of people compare what the Dodge or Corvette or what the 4.0 Ford V-6, or ........fill in the blank, use. Those are irrelevant. Ford designed our engine for 5W-20. There is little difference between 20 and 30 so I do not see the harm in gaining slight added protection by using the 30. But our engines are not designed for 50 weight. In addition there is a different oil pump in the GT 500 to pump that much heavier oil. Our oil pump is designed for the lighter oil. Just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 http://www.ulx110.com.au/ I have always assumed less friction unleashes horsepower, torque, and results in less wear. And the engine runs cooler. ULX has a very high concentration of liquid moly and zinc. an 8+% increase in HP, which equates to approximately 344 HP for a stock SGT, if this is accurate. I believe Royal Purple and others also claim additional HP. ULX could be one of the greatest kept secrets. I have personal knowledge of how it performs in fleet service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usgpru27 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx Is this the Amsoil that is the good stuff to buy? Black Label? Just want to be 100%. I have been going back and forth on using 10w30 or 10w40. My GT500 gets mostly summer driving and may see a track day in the spring so I am going to use the 10w40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJN Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 http://www.amsoil.co...efront/amo.aspx Is this the Amsoil that is the good stuff to buy? Black Label? Just want to be 100%. I have been going back and forth on using 10w30 or 10w40. My GT500 gets mostly summer driving and may see a track day in the spring so I am going to use the 10w40. That is exactly the same one I just put in mine and drained from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usgpru27 Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Perfect... Thank you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Mopar Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I use what the manual says......and ONLY that. Why use anything else, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnrehder Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I use Amsoil 5W-20 full Synthetic and their oil filters. There was a giant oil thread a while back that had lots of data and studies. Use what makes you feel comfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Royal Purple HPS http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hps-motor-oil/?crawler=true I wil be using this from here forward- way ahead of the curve of others Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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