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MGW shifter or Shelby 6 speed billet one


dingo2008

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Looking at buying a shifter and wanted to know which is the best to get, I hear many love the MGW ones heard some good reviews of the shelby 6 speed shifter they no longer sell but I am still able to get one from some vendors. I see scott drake sells their own now which is a little different than the shelby one they use to make. Let me know if you have either of these three and how you like it or dislike it

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the back mount is it solid or does a bushing insulate it? Is there more cabin noise? I want to keep the factory knob and boot in th factory location I see they sell a rod to work with the factory knob. So I should just buy that one? Where is the cheapest place to buy it or free shipping?

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I have mgw and I love it

 

 

+1

 

I put the MGW in last year and love it. I use the factory boot, but I went with the stripe/cobra painted ball. WAY better then the stock one that's for sure.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by the rear-mount either.

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Looking at buying a shifter and wanted to know which is the best to get, I hear many love the MGW ones heard some good reviews of the shelby 6 speed shifter they no longer sell but I am still able to get one from some vendors. I see scott drake sells their own now which is a little different than the shelby one they use to make. Let me know if you have either of these three and how you like it or dislike it

 

 

According to Roger S., all Super Snakes now come with a MGW shifter in them.

 

I suspect the reason Shelby isn't selling the Shelby 6-spd shifter anymore is because they no longer use their old (made in China) shifter supplier and they now use MGW...

 

So. Do you want to use a Chinise made shifter that even SHELBY won't use anymore, or a MGW that is made in the USA and Shelby uses.

 

Oh, and I *suspect* you will see a new Shelby shifter for sale in the near future....made by MGW.

 

 

This is a no-brainer to me,

Phill

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the back mount is it solid or does a bushing insulate it? Is there more cabin noise? I want to keep the factory knob and boot in th factory location I see they sell a rod to work with the factory knob. So I should just buy that one? Where is the cheapest place to buy it or free shipping?

 

 

The rear mount is a solid piece of aluminum but it has bushings in it for noise reduction.

 

As of this writing, MGW only sells direct. Go to mgwltd.com and you can either order on-line or call them and place a phone order.

 

 

Phill

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Probably going to order MGW tomorrow he said they were waiting on a few things to build the shifters but they would ship this week so I figure I might as well get on the wagon. I seen the intall write up by one the the mustang magazines and they said they didn't remove the drive shaft and actually took it out of the shifter hole and put it in that way, has any one else done it this way? Sounds much easier to do it this way.

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Probably going to order MGW tomorrow he said they were waiting on a few things to build the shifters but they would ship this week so I figure I might as well get on the wagon. I seen the intall write up by one the the mustang magazines and they said they didn't remove the drive shaft and actually took it out of the shifter hole and put it in that way, has any one else done it this way? Sounds much easier to do it this way.

 

Yep...that's how I pulled mine out. Through the top, through the shifter hole. Follow the instructions. I says turn it so the braces go to the right and along side of the trans. It comes right out, no problem at all.

 

And be sure to read the instrucions on the brace pins CAREFULLY. If you understand them, and follow them, the pins come RIGHT out. The "secret" is the hole in the boss on the transmission. Put the little allen wrench they give you (for this reason) in the hole to push out the "clip" before you try to twist the lock up.

 

It'll make sense once you get under there...

 

Phill

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Yep...that's how I pulled mine out. Through the top, through the shifter hole. Follow the instructions. I says turn it so the braces go to the right and along side of the trans. It comes right out, no problem at all.

 

And be sure to read the instrucions on the brace pins CAREFULLY. If you understand them, and follow them, the pins come RIGHT out. The "secret" is the hole in the boss on the transmission. Put the little allen wrench they give you (for this reason) in the hole to push out the "clip" before you try to twist the lock up.

 

It'll make sense once you get under there...

 

Phill

 

 

Hey phill,

 

Are you saying the old shifter and themgw can be removed and installed from the top? No lowering the tranny, etc?

 

Thanks,

Tom

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Hey phill,

Are you saying the old shifter and themgw can be removed and installed from the top? No lowering the tranny, etc?

Thanks,

Tom

 

 

The old shifter comes out the top, the MGW goes in underneath in pieces. Well, the rear mount and the two brace arms go in from under the car and NO, I did NOT lower my trans. or remove my driveshaft but I *did* remove the reverse lock-out solenoid and the Vehicle Speed Sensor/VSS to give me a little more room (and I'd do it again if I did it again).

 

If I recall, the shifter part goes in through the top then bolts on to the brace arms from below.

 

It's cake, really. IF YOU PAY ATTENTION to how the MGW instruction sheet tells you to remove the two pins, it's SIMPLE. I didn't understand on the first one and it was a bitch. I reread the instructions and relized there is a hole in the trans boss that you push the little allen wrench into and push the locking tab (on the pin lock) OUT of the hole with then the lock rotates up and the pin slides right out.

 

Just remember the little hole (about 1/8"?)....stick the short end of the allen in and PUSH. WHILE PUSHING, rotate the pin. What you are pushing on is a small metal tab that sticks into the hole and keeps the pin locked in.

 

 

Phill

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I've read that the Shelby unit is designed by Shelby American (or Shelby Automobiles at the time), I was considering that one because of that fact.

 

 

I'm not sure but I *think* it was a Scott Drake item.

 

But I *know* it is made in China.

 

 

Phill

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Does the MGW shifter help you get in to third a lot better? I know some aftermarket ones use a stiff spring to get it go to center once you push it out of any gear, but it sounds like MGW doesn't have a stiff spring in it but a strong lateral spring? How does it shift for you? I ordered mine today, but it's on back order till next week I guess.

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Does the MGW shifter help you get in to third a lot better? I know some aftermarket ones use a stiff spring to get it go to center once you push it out of any gear, but it sounds like MGW doesn't have a stiff spring in it but a strong lateral spring? How does it shift for you? I ordered mine today, but it's on back order till next week I guess.

 

 

The MGW goes to 3rd just like butter.

 

The best thing about it is that you can adjust the throw to be relatively stock-like, or short.

 

It's also quiet...

 

George makes extremely nice products, his shifters are well thought out and worth every dime.

 

That said, I have owned both the SPP Billet shifter and the MGW.

 

The MGW is smoother and quieter, with a more rearward handle location compared to the SPP.

 

I have shorter legs/longer arms, so reach was never an issue for me. I actually preferred the SPP handle placement much better than the MGW because it reminded me of how a Fox feels as far as where you hand drops to.

 

I don't know about it being made in China, but the Scott Drake mfg. SPP billet unit was a nice piece. It has a classic short-throw shifter feel to it; like I said, reminds me of a Fox car. It feels natural and has only minimal gear feedback through it and it had a good, positive shift feel. Nothing wrong with it really; but the MGW is smoother thats for sure.

 

The MGW has a rifle-bolt action feel to it on the 2-3 shift. The centering springs are stiffer than stock, but it's weighted very nicely overall.

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I am wondering about how the grip feels. A round ball compared to a contoured stock grip. I am not trying to compare the shifters themselves in regards to performance.

 

I like the way the stock grip feels which is more contoured to your hand. The round ball?

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I am wondering about how the grip feels. A round ball compared to a contoured stock grip. I am not trying to compare the shifters themselves in regards to performance.

 

I like the way the stock grip feels which is more contoured to your hand. The round ball?

 

 

I used the stock (white w/black stripes) *round* ball on mine but I also bought one of their rally knobs in case I want to change to a White w/blue stripes ball.

 

You *can* use your stock "contoured stock grip", ya know. Just order the shaft for the stock grip...

 

 

Phill

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I used the stock (white w/black stripes) *round* ball on mine but I also bought one of their rally knobs in case I want to change to a White w/blue stripes ball.

 

You *can* use your stock "contoured stock grip", ya know. Just order the shaft for the stock grip...

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

I just noticed that on their website after watching the install videos. Didn't pay much attention until it was mentioned in the video. Several different to chose from. Would save a few $'s and always the option to change later.

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The old shifter comes out the top, the MGW goes in underneath in pieces. Well, the rear mount and the two brace arms go in from under the car and NO, I did NOT lower my trans. or remove my driveshaft but I *did* remove the reverse lock-out solenoid and the Vehicle Speed Sensor/VSS to give me a little more room (and I'd do it again if I did it again).

 

If I recall, the shifter part goes in through the top then bolts on to the brace arms from below.

 

It's cake, really. IF YOU PAY ATTENTION to how the MGW instruction sheet tells you to remove the two pins, it's SIMPLE. I didn't understand on the first one and it was a bitch. I reread the instructions and relized there is a hole in the trans boss that you push the little allen wrench into and push the locking tab (on the pin lock) OUT of the hole with then the lock rotates up and the pin slides right out.

 

Just remember the little hole (about 1/8"?)....stick the short end of the allen in and PUSH. WHILE PUSHING, rotate the pin. What you are pushing on is a small metal tab that sticks into the hole and keeps the pin locked in.

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

Thanks!!!

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In the mgw installation videos they say to lower the tranny, do you have to or were some of you able to do it with out lowering the tranny some. I know I could but would be nice if I didn't have to do that. Thanks

 

 

I've noticed in a couple of different pictures that there is a pretty fair difference between a 2010+ and a '07-'09 rear transmission mount.

 

The 2010 looks like the trans sits lower than previous years. The two trans mount studs that stick down through the X-member had to be cut off for me to mount my Steeda DS loop front mount where as the earlier years don't require that. The x-member on the earlier models looks like it has a much higher "hump" that the trans sits on where the '10 is nearly flat across the mount area.

 

My point being, I think the '07-'09 trans sits HIGHER in the tunnel than the '10 and newer trans so even though I DID NOT have to lower my trans (I have a '10) you may have to on a '09 + Earlier model year.

 

IF you do, it's no big deal. A floor jack or a bottle jack under the cross-member to support/lower/raise the member and remove 4 (18mm?) bolts on the corners of the cross-member. Lower it, do your work, raise it, install the bolts then toque them to 85 lb./ft.

 

That's it, yer done (with lowering/raising it). But to be clear, I DID NOT need to nor have to lower my trans to install my MGW and I had PLENTY of room (after removing the VSS and Reverse lock-out solenoid on either side of the tailshaft cone).

 

 

Phill

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Thanks!!!

 

 

Trob...

 

I may have already asked you this or mentioned this but....you're in Morgan Hill???

 

What area? Hit me privately if you'd rather not publish your location!

 

phill.pollard@comcast.net

 

I have a good friend (actually, a couple of them) in Morgan HIll who throws a big party once a year that I *rarely* miss. He's just south of the Harley store on the same side of 101. His name is Rich A. Wagler (RAW) and he puts on a party for all of his friends he calls "RAW MEET". Usually in May so there's a GOOD chance I'll be out there in May...IF I GET MY FREAKIN' FR3 KIT BY THEN! If not, I may still make it, just not in the Shelby.

 

 

Later,

Phill

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  • 4 weeks later...

I put the MGW on my 2007 and love it. I ordered direct from MGW and long story short, the guy from MGW told me at that time that Shelby was making the change to their shifter for all the SuperSnake.. It was easy to install and it is absolutely awesome. It is very tight and solid feeling and operating. I went back with stock knob and boot so you never know it isnt stock till you touch it. I cant think of anything you could be doing while driving that could possible cause you to miss third.

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I didn't lower the tranny in my '08. I smashed a few knuckles, and threw a few :censored: words, but otherwise it went in fine. So, you can do it without lowering it, but it is certainly easier to install if you do.

 

Love mine and would do it again if need be.

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Shelby is going with the MGW on 2012 Super Snakes, as per MGW.

 

 

And as per Roger S. from Shelby.

 

 

Phill

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  • 11 months later...

I have a Scott Drake shifter in my GT500. Well made, shifts very well, and I have never missed 3rd at the track. The throws are nice and short and there is no slop. I would recommend the Shfifter. I never used the MGW, but this shifter is solid. This is in my 11.

 

Most Scott Drake products are made right in the ol USA.

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