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First time out with Michelin 275/35 - 335/30 PS2 set-up...................


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Today is the first time that I have had the car out since the Michelin PS2 tire upgrade front and rear.................

 

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I did step into it in first gear and it spun of course, but instead of it becoming a roller skate, it seemed to thrust straight forward controllably while spinning. It is nice to have a Viper size tire (except in 20") on the rear.

 

 

I think I may adjust the Eibachs a little lower on the front, but I need to get the car on a flat surface. Everything around here, including my driveway, is sloped at an angle.

 

Next Saturday morning I am going to have the front aligned at the dealership, just to pull the front tires in at the top a little bit, not much, but just a little, especially the passenger side which is straight up and has stuck out a little at the top since the conversion.

 

 

R

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Today is the first time that I have had the car out since the Michelin PS2 tire upgrade front and rear.................

 

Picture1960.jpg

CopyofPicture1966-1.jpg

CopyofPicture1965-1.jpg

Picture1969.jpg

 

I did step into it in first gear and it spun of course, but instead of it becoming a roller skate, it seemed to thrust straight forward controllably while spinning. It is nice to have a Viper size (except a 20" instead of 18") on the rear.

 

 

I think I may adjust the Eibachs a little lower on the front, but I need to get the car on a flat surface. Everything around here, including my driveway, is sloped at an angle.

 

 

R

 

 

 

Looks great Robert. Larger rears don't seem to extend out more then normal.

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Looks good Robert!! Glad you got it all to fit. did you have to use spacers in rear?

 

 

 

I have 1/8" spacers on each side and I did not cut or mod the bumpstop bracket at all. I did remove the shock boot. I had an instance where my left rear tire was pushed up inside the wheel well and my right side extended, the left side did touch the sound deadener slightly, but the extended right side did not touch the bracket on the inside of the rim, so I am going to leave it alone for right now and see what "realistic" driving conditions I encounter. If I do not need to mod the bracket for the driving situations that I encounter, that is fine with me.

 

I painted each 1/8" spacer matte black and they blend in with the Baer rotors so you can't even tell they are there. They are so thin, the difference with or without them on the outside view is not noticable, but it allows the suspension to travel a little deeper before sound deadener contact.

 

I have a driveway incline and I do not have a problem getting up into my driveway with the set up as it is. That was my goal.

 

 

R

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I have 1/8" spacers on each side and I did not cut or mod the bumpstop bracket at all. I did remove the shock boot. I had an instance where my left rear tire was pushed up inside the wheel well and my right side extended, the left side did touch the sound deadener slightly, but the extended right side did not touch the bracket on the inside of the rim, so I am going to leave it alone for right now and see what "realistic" driving conditions I encounter. If I do not need to mod the bracket for the driving situations that I encounter, that is fine with me.

 

I painted each 1/8" spacer matte black and they blend in with the Baer rotors so you can't even tell they are there. They are so thin, the difference with or without them on the outside view is not noticable, but it allows the suspension to travel a little deeper before sound deadener contact.

 

I have a driveway incline and I do not have a problem getting up into my driveway with the set up as it is. That was my goal.

 

 

R

 

 

 

That's great to hear!! Gives me hope with the size I plan on using. I am going to go with 11.75" with R888 315's. Hope I don't have to cut brackets either.

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Congrats Robert.

 

Great pics. Looks great.

 

 

I am up next week for my 335/30's. I had my wheels widen to 11.75.

 

I am also installing the D-specs struts/shocks & the MM/Shelby Caster Camber plates.

 

Please share how your alignment works out.

 

If you don't mind, I will add to your post too.

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I think I may adjust the Eibachs a little lower on the front, but I need to get the car on a flat surface. Everything around here, including my driveway, is sloped at an angle.

 

 

 

 

I agree, that will give it a little of the "funny car" rake as well.

 

Looks absolutely awesome!

 

 

BTW, which wheel spacers did you use?

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I agree, that will give it a little of the "funny car" rake as well.

 

Looks absolutely awesome!

 

 

BTW, which wheel spacers did you use?

 

 

I don't want to tuck the front tires into the fender well, but maybe 1/2-3/4 additional drop should get it closer to the rear appearance.

 

I ordered the 1/8" spacers for UPR. Once they were sprayed matte black, they disappeared against the rotor hats and really did not stick the tires out much at all. As long as the flat tire tread surface did not get out past the fender lip, I was happy. If I were to really articulate the axle, there would be contact at some point as it sits now. So far I have not run into situations while on the street where my suspension has experienced full compression on one side and not the other.

 

My car now seems to have a more muscular look. Would it be nice to mini-tub the car and pull the rear wheels/tires in, sure, but right now the 335's are 1/2" or so from the rear sway bar and 1/2" or so from the lower control arm's on each side. It would require a lot more than just a sheet metal mini-tub mod to tuck these tires. It would require a custom rear sway bar, relocation inward of the LCA's, and then the axle itself, shortened?

 

To put Viper size rear tires on a Super Snake without extensive mods, this is it.........................

 

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Thank you to ALL for the complements!!<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

 

 

R

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I don't want to tuck the front tires into the fender well, but maybe 1/2-3/4 additional drop should get it closer to the rear appearance.

 

 

 

Oh I agree 100%. Just match the rear tire gap. Even though the tires are about the same size it will still give it a nice posture.

 

Thanks!

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Oh I agree 100%. Just match the rear tire gap. Even though the tires are about the same size it will still give it a nice posture.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

^^^^^^^^^That is the goal.^^^^^^^^^^^

 

I talked to my local dealership today. They have a 26 year technician who does all of their "special" alignments. He asked if I had CC plates and I told him yes, but they are not on the car, he said bring them along just in case they are needed. I also told him that I had the tubed Shelby lower control arms. He said that it would be best to install them now so I will not have to pay for a second alignment. He said there is a good posibility that the spindle and strut will have to be seperated and that would be a good time to also get the control arms installed. I mentioned that I had the Shelby bumpsteer tie rod adjusters, he said he wants to look at them.

 

What originally looked like maybe a $79 alignment may end up being $200-$300?

 

BTW - What do these do differently from the normal tie rod ends................bumpsteer? What that be?

 

These looked Cool so I bought a pair during one of the Shelby Store sales.....................

 

Picture1974.jpg

 

What is their function in addition to connecting the rack to each spindle?

 

R

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^^^^^^^^^That is the goal.^^^^^^^^^^^

 

I talked to my local dealership today. They have a 26 year technician who does all of their "special" alignments. He asked if I had CC plates and I told him yes, but they are not on the car, he said bring them along just in case they are needed. I also told him that I had the tubed Shelby lower control arms. He said that it would be best to install them now so I will not have to pay for a second alignment. He said there is a good posibility that the spindle and strut will have to be seperated and that would be a good time to also get the control arms installed. I mentioned that I had the Shelby bumpsteer tie rod adjusters, he said he wants to look at them.

 

What originally looked like maybe a $79 alignment may end up being $200-$300?

 

BTW - What do these do differently from the normal tie rod ends................bumpsteer? What that be?

 

These looked Cool so I bought a pair during one of the Shelby Store sales.....................

 

Picture1974.jpg

 

What is their function in addition to connecting the rack to each spindle?

 

R

 

Robert the bumpsteer tie rod end adjusters actually install just the way the factory ones do but the actually have adjustment ,this way you can actually adjust the angle of rack arm on each side of the car,for instance if your car was lowered with coil overs your ride height changed,there for the angle of the steering arms changed,this will let you put it back to factory specs. Most people buy them for race use so you can adjust them so when you go into a corner at high speed these will help keep the contact patch of the tire flat on the ground for better grip.

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Bumpsteer is when the toe changes due to compression of the front suspension (hit a bump). This causes the car to steer itself without input from the steering wheel. This is caused by the steering linkage being outside the design parameters enough to cause the problem. I have not really noticed it after lowering mine. They can check for it during the alignment by bouncing the front of the car or compressing the front suspension with a strap and then the machine tells you if your toe changes enough to be considered bumpsteer.

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