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SuperSnake 20" Alcoas


Madlock

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Is there any reason, presuming a suitably-sized tire, while a person would NOT choose to go with 20 x 10 on both front AND rear, rather than staggering 9s and 10s?

 

 

I've wondered the same thing since day one.

 

Robert M. just put his 10" rear Super Snake alcoa db's on the front of his SS and they fit fine.

 

I always considered it a no-brainer. The car is known to understeer (push) so the EASIEST and most SIMPLE fix would be....more tire up front! DUHHHHHHH!!!

 

Roush puts the same size (Coopers) tires on the front/rear of his 2010 427R's and they handle exceptionally well. He sells a very simple kit (about 9 bucks) that consists of two small "C" shaped plastic pieces that clip onto the ends of the steering rack for 'stops". You pull back the bellows from the rack and clip one "C" on each end of the rack. They're MAYBE 1/8" thick so it doesn't take much to keep the tires from touching on the outside wheel on a hard turn.

 

I also know of one guy with a 2010 that took his car in for a service only to realize later that they "rotatated" his tires for him....but rather than just side-to-side as the manual says, they put the rears on the front. He didn't have ANY rub and only discovered it when he looked closely at the car and realized the wider tires were on the FRONT of the car.

 

That proved to me that you could run a 285mm tire on the front without any problem at all and my money is that it would HELP get rid of the push, rather than make it worse.

 

I'm really kind of surprised that no one has tried it long before now, especially knowing these things historically push through corners.

 

Who needs a $26,000 aluminum 2011 aluminum engine that weighs 120 pounds less....jsut put a wider set of tires on the front and get similar results! (I think).

 

 

Anyone wanna be a guinea pig?

 

Phill

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I may be the pig you're looking for - guinea, that is.

 

I'm at a 3-way wheel and tire crossroads. I want out of the SVTPP Wheels and Tires for daily use because I truly don't like them - but I also want to have them on-hand and at the ready for run-hard opportunities at the track. I had, at first, dismissed the Alcoas due to cost - but after tallying-up the delta from the 19" FR SVTPP wheels, it'd be a dumb place to try to save about $250.

 

The 3 alternatives I've seen for myself are:

 

A) 19" FR SVTPP wheels on all four corners.

 

B) 20" Alcoas on all four corners.

 

C) Buying a pair of OE SVTPP 20" wheels and a pair of 19" FR SVTPP wheels and having two staggered sets - sending one rear set to Weldcraft to have widened into 10.5 to accommodate a 315/35-20 rear wheel.

 

I'm bound and determined to use Continental ExtremeContact DWS's - which unfortunately are poorly-sized for the GT500 range. My first quandry was whether or not to have my second set be 275/40-19's all-around. They may be less aggressive at the edge of the envelope, but they'd provide one hell of a nice ride for about 90% of use spectrum - hydroplaning be damned.

 

One thing that concerns me, however, is something I've noticed that I haven't been able to fully resolve. At full lock at low speeds (like when backing-out of a driveway), I get all sorts of chatter. I don't know whether the OE 265's are rubbing - or it's merely a product of the F-1 G: 2's behaving like hockey pucks in cold weather. I had concerns about going to 275's even though SVT very-unofficially suggested Ford wouldn't be likely to make a mass-market car with OE tires just one size away from rubbing. Made sense.

 

The other aspect I don't like, part of which is also bound to be attributable to the F-1 G: 2's and cold weather is how dramatically the car can pull at any imperfection - but is primarily a product of the front tire real estate. Maybe softer rubber wouldn't be quite so prone - and if Roush offers steering limiters to avoid rubbing, I'd feel a bunch better about running a wide tire up-front. And if I were to make the 315/35-20's fit in the back, they have a 275/35-20, or even a 285/30-20 that would work on the front. - both of which would be ideal on a 9.5" wheel, but would also work on the Alcoa's just fine.

 

If I were able to increase the contact patch and relative sidewall stiffness so much, with a tire as truly terrific as the DWS happens to be (and despite being an all-season tire), I wouldn't be surprised if I managed to re-shoe the car and make it every bit as good as the F-1 G: 2's at their optimum. Even if it's within the same area code, the DWS's are so well-mannered, comfortable and quiet that I'd gladly make that trade.

 

The Alcoas are the only non-OE tire I think look decent enough to be worth a damn - although the 19" Black Ford Racing wheels (GT Brembo Style) look good too - and very closely resemble the black Alcoas. Why oh why do I think I'm going to wind-up with 3 full sets of wheels an tires for a single car? (but no spare) banghead.gif

 

Wait a minute - with a set of 18" non-SVT style wheels for when I want to turn tires into smoke, that makes 4.

 

Does anybody have any working knowledge of just how much wider a rear tire the 2011/12 GT500 can accommodate with the OE offset.

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> I may be the pig you're looking for - guinea, that is.

 

Oink oink....err, I mean SUUUUUEEY!

 

 

> - and if Roush offers steering limiters to avoid rubbing, I'd feel a bunch better about running a wide tire up-front.

 

 

Here's the URL to the limiter kit:

 

http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=1193

 

There's no picture but they're just "C" shaped nylon spacers. In fact, there is a pic in the instruction sheet and it explains how easy it is to install them:

 

http://store.roushperformance.com/images/manuals/404476_manual.pdf

 

(PDF File Attached for ease of viewing)

 

 

HTH,

Phill Pollard

Roush Wheel Stop Kit Ins. Sheet - 404476.pdf

Roush Wheel Stop Kit Ins. Sheet - 404476.pdf

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