2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 I keep saying "it's in the details"..... Here's one more. The photo's don't do it justice but you should be able to get the idea. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseygator Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Very Nice! What type of paint did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Very Nice! What type of paint did you use? I'll have to get the can out of the garage. I bought it at Wal-mart and it's a kind of "chrome" colored paint. They have red, blue, gold and silver. In real life, it looks almost like it's anodized Aluminum. I'm headed out to the garage to get some work done now. I'll get the name of the paint. "Metallaca" or some weird name like that. Liquid Metal? Something like that. I've seen it at ALL Wal-mart stores so you should be able to find it. Oh, and it's Krylon too. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseygator Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 So definitely nothing fancy. I agree it's the little things that make the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Very Nice! What type of paint did you use? This.... Available at any Wal-Mart. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Barnett Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 I keep saying "it's in the details"..... Here's one more. The photo's don't do it justice but you should be able to get the idea. Phill These look great!! I wish you still lived in the area so you could show me how to do some of this stuff. I wouldnt dare try this while the car is still under warranty. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TN Red Snake Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 The stock fuel rails were one of the things I couldn't stand to look at when I lefted my hood. I was so glad to get the fuel system and the new rails put on. That looks so much better. From reading all these months about you modding everything from front to rear, are the stock rails going to provide you with enough fuel when you are done??? I look forward to your mod list when you are finally done with her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 The stock fuel rails were one of the things I couldn't stand to look at when I lefted my hood. I was so glad to get the fuel system and the new rails put on. That looks so much better. From reading all these months about you modding everything from front to rear, are the stock rails going to provide you with enough fuel when you are done??? I look forward to your mod list when you are finally done with her. I have a set of the Shelby (Metco?) fuel rails sitting on my parts shelf. At first I couldn't find all of the AN fittings I needed so I was going to use my OE rail until I could find and order the fittings and cross-over hose. I finally found the fittings and hose (Earls) but haven't ordered it yet. I need to mount the Supercharger to see what bend I need on the end fittings for the cross-over. So in the meantime, like you, I also thought the OEM fuel rails looked like crap. So I decided to dress them up a little so they'd look better while I wait for the AN fittings. I have to wait to order the end fittings so I can determine if I need 45d, 90d or straight fittings with the Shelby rails and the Whipple 2.9L so I figure I'll use my stock painted fuel rails until I get the AN fittings in hand. I did it mainly just for something to do and to give other people ideas for their OEM rails. I've seen a TON of negative comments about the stock rails so maybe this will help somone with a idea or two. All I did was wipe them down with a shop rag and laquer thinner, then paint them with the "X Metal" paint I showed in a pic. TOO EASY! But yeah, I already have my fuel system upgrades in progress. They will likely stay aluminum colored or I MIGHT take my polishing wheel to them and polish them out to a high shine (I just can't leave "well enough" alone!). Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10GT500KonaBlue Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 looks good ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TN Red Snake Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 That is certainly a good mod for those that aren't going full-bore with performance mods to have to worry about fuel restrictions. If I hadn't needed to upgrade my system, I would certainly have changed out the fuel rails whether they needed them or not. This would have worked for me also. They look good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-o-500 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 were the rails easy to remove? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 were the rails easy to remove? Yes, it is *very* easy. Start by draining the fuel system. The easiest way to drain (bleed) the system is to either lift the back seat bottom up, unplug the fuel pump connector on the Dr. side, start the car and let it die. The other choice is to find the fuel pump fuse or FUSES (later Shelby's have TWO FP fuses) and/or the fuel pump relay. They are all in the fuse box located in the right front of the eng. compartment. Pull the fuse/s and/or relay, start the engine and let it run until it dies. They system is not completely "drained" but it is depressurized and able to be opened without spraying gasoline all over the engine bay. Disconnect the injector harness plugs from each injector. Press the tab on the fuel inlet hose and pull back on the hose to remove it from the fuel rail inle tube (you might want to have a plug handy as gas will want to spill out). Remove the 4 small bolts that hold the rails down onto the intake manifold (or is it the supercharger?). Lift the rails up with the injectors noting that if a injector stays behind, gasoline WILL pour out of the fuel rail (so have shop rags all around the base of the injectors). That's it...you now have the 2 rails and 8 injectors in your hand. The injectors snap into the rail. Unsnap each one (I put all of mine in a ziplock baggie) and insert them in the manifold holes before REINSTALLING the fuel rail. Drain your inlet hose prior to reinstalling it onto the fuel rail or you new paint job will be junk. CAUTION: DO *NOT* CYCLE THE IGNITION KEY ON/OFF FROM THE TIME YOU DEPRESSURIZE THE FUEL SYSTEM UNTIL YOU HAVE IT ALL THE WAY BACK TOGETHER. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bring500 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Yes, it is *very* easy. Start by draining the fuel system. The easiest way to drain (bleed) the system is to either lift the back seat bottom up, unplug the fuel pump connector on the Dr. side, start the car and let it die. The other choice is to find the fuel pump fuse or FUSES (later Shelby's have TWO FP fuses) and/or the fuel pump relay. They are all in the fuse box located in the right front of the eng. compartment. Pull the fuse/s and/or relay, start the engine and let it run until it dies. They system is not completely "drained" but it is depressurized and able to be opened without spraying gasoline all over the engine bay. Disconnect the injector harness plugs from each injector. Press the tab on the fuel inlet hose and pull back on the hose to remove it from the fuel rail inle tube (you might want to have a plug handy as gas will want to spill out). Remove the 4 small bolts that hold the rails down onto the intake manifold (or is it the supercharger?). Lift the rails up with the injectors noting that if a injector stays behind, gasoline WILL pour out of the fuel rail (so have shop rags all around the base of the injectors). That's it...you now have the 2 rails and 8 injectors in your hand. The injectors snap into the rail. Unsnap each one (I put all of mine in a ziplock baggie) and insert them in the manifold holes before REINSTALLING the fuel rail. Drain your inlet hose prior to reinstalling it onto the fuel rail or you new paint job will be junk. CAUTION: DO *NOT* CYCLE THE IGNITION KEY ON/OFF FROM THE TIME YOU DEPRESSURIZE THE FUEL SYSTEM UNTIL YOU HAVE IT ALL THE WAY BACK TOGETHER. Phill Pull the fuses under the rear seat. The ones in the engine compartment kill the engine, instantly, when pulled, and won't depressurize the rails. I learned the hard way...very messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-o-500 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Thanks Phill. I'm gonna play with the car this weekend and see what I can get done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Pull the fuses under the rear seat. The ones in the engine compartment kill the engine, instantly, when pulled, and won't depressurize the rails. I learned the hard way...very messy. "Fuses under the rear seat"? WHERE??? I know where the fuel pump plugs are but I"ve never seen a FUSE under the seat. We talkin' about a GT500 here? Oh, and FWIW...I started pulling the fuel line off of the fuel pump before depressurizing the system (flat ass FORGOT) and yeah, you WILL have a mess. I was pulling it SLOWLY so I only got a little gas before I quickly stuffed it back on the pump. Had I just yanked it, I'd a been FOOKED. And finding the FUEL PUMP RELAY on a 2010 is a chore. It is NOT the one Whipple shows in their instruction sheet and there are TWO (if I recall). I pulled one and the car kept running...and running...and running. Hmm, look more, pull second one, start car and it ran about 5-10 seconds then died. Try to restart it, JUST IN CASE. And STILL pull the feed hose off S-L-O-W-L-Y, to insure there's no pressure in the line (at the fuel rail). Curious about the "fuses" under the back seat, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bring500 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 "Fuses under the rear seat"? WHERE??? I know where the fuel pump plugs are but I"ve never seen a FUSE under the seat. We talkin' about a GT500 here? Oh, and FWIW...I started pulling the fuel line off of the fuel pump before depressurizing the system (flat ass FORGOT) and yeah, you WILL have a mess. I was pulling it SLOWLY so I only got a little gas before I quickly stuffed it back on the pump. Had I just yanked it, I'd a been FOOKED. And finding the FUEL PUMP RELAY on a 2010 is a chore. It is NOT the one Whipple shows in their instruction sheet and there are TWO (if I recall). I pulled one and the car kept running...and running...and running. Hmm, look more, pull second one, start car and it ran about 5-10 seconds then died. Try to restart it, JUST IN CASE. And STILL pull the feed hose off S-L-O-W-L-Y, to insure there's no pressure in the line (at the fuel rail). Curious about the "fuses" under the back seat, Phill Sorry, misquoted your procedure...should have said connectors. I only pulled the fuses in the fuse box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-o-500 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Start by draining the fuel system. The easiest way to drain (bleed) the system is to either lift the back seat bottom up, unplug the fuel pump connector on the Dr. side, start the car and let it die. Phill I pulled the rear seat. I assume you are talking about the connector under the large rubber cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I pulled the rear seat. I assume you are talking about the connector under the large rubber cover? Yes. There is a cover on both sides, under the seat. The only one I had to pull was the Drivers side as that was the pump I had to replace for the whipple 2.9L install. The pump on the other side is a "transfer pump" to move gas from one side of the tank, over the tunnel to the other side where the primary pump is located. I'm not sure if it pressurizes the rail/system but I'd pull it JUST IN CASE (and it'll only take another 10 seconds). Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-o-500 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Yes. There is a cover on both sides, under the seat. The only one I had to pull was the Drivers side as that was the pump I had to replace for the whipple 2.9L install. The pump on the other side is a "transfer pump" to move gas from one side of the tank, over the tunnel to the other side where the primary pump is located. I'm not sure if it pressurizes the rail/system but I'd pull it JUST IN CASE (and it'll only take another 10 seconds). Phill I just pulled the driver side, started it and it died a few minutes later. Success. I have everything painted up and ready to be reinstalled after I let it all dry until Thursday (stupid work schedule) I will post some pics when I am done. Thank you for posting about it, and all of the great info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I just pulled the driver side, started it and it died a few minutes later. Success. I have everything painted up and ready to be reinstalled after I let it all dry until Thursday (stupid work schedule) I will post some pics when I am done. Thank you for posting about it, and all of the great info. Cool! I'm looking forward to seeing it/them installed. What color did you go with? I may install mine and actually use it/them while I wait for all of my AN fittings to get here (for my Shelby fuel rails) or if they get here before I put my SC on, I may just put the painted OEM rails on to see how they look. In my case, I put the Blue FRPP cam covers on with the polished billet COP covers and I'm installing a POLISHED Whipple 2.9L SC so the blue "anodized" (look) might actually go better than the satin aluminum Shelby fuel rails I have. They might "break up" the color scheme and look better than the plain Al. rails. Maybe. And if that's the case, I may send out my Shelby rails and get them anodized blue! Looking forward to pics, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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