2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 I'm in the process of installing a Shelby (BMR) K-member and Shelby (BMR) Non-adjustable A-arms. BMR gives me what *they* say are alignment specs but they seem to be WAYYY out of whack, at least since the last time I aligned a car. BMR says: OE ALIGNMENT SPECFICATIONS FRONT; SPECIFICATION TOLERANCE CAMBER: -0.75 degrees .50 degrees CASTER: 7.10 degrees .50 degrees TOE: 0.10 degrees 0.20 degrees Now I don't kwow about anyone else, but I have NEVER seen a car that requires SEVEN degrees (+/- .5d) of Caster. It may be possible, but that seems extreamly high to me. Maybe the GT500 just needs a lot of Caster to get the wheels back straight.... Also, I've NEVER used a alignment machine, nor seen a spec for Toe that is anything other than fraction of inches. Typically 1/8" toe-in, or something similar to that. So none of this makes any sense to me. I will set my initial caster/camber/toe the old fashioned way (a level and a string) so I can get my car into a alignment shop to get a 4-wheel alignment but....SEVEN degrees of Caster and. -9.29-+0.30 DEGREES of toe? Does anyone have a service manual that can give me the FORD recommend spec for front end alignment adjustments? Thank you, Phill Pollard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tob Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Phill, the S197 chassis is set up to allow far more positive caster than ever before. It's a good thing! The issue I ran into when lowering my car was attaining the camber numbers I desired. There simply isn't enough of a slot at the top of each strut tower to allow for enough movement. As to toe, I went with an 1/16" to an 1/8" of toe in, which is pretty much a general or standard number. And while the string method works well for squaring up the car and setting toe, you still need a way to measure caster and camber. I use a rather simple gauge from Longacre. I get my car up and off the ground (and level). I use a sheet of Delrin up front that makes turning the wheel simple... I attach the gauge directly to the rotor face... It is rather easy to set everything up. Here's a shot showing that I ended up with about 7-1/2* of positive caster on the passenger side... And the following shot illustrates how little movement you can get within the factory strut tower slots... Tob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Phill, the S197 chassis is set up to allow far more positive caster than ever before. It's a good thing! The issue I ran into when lowering my car was attaining the camber numbers I desired. There simply isn't enough of a slot at the top of each strut tower to allow for enough movement. As to toe, I went with an 1/16" to an 1/8" of toe in, which is pretty much a general or standard number. Tob I have the Shelby (Maximum Motorsports) Caster/Camber plates so I do have some adjustment. I'm not sure if I have THAT much adjustment but if it started out with 7d originally, I should be able to get it back there. I was just going to go by my own toe "hunch" too, which would be 1/8" too. The more rolling resistence in a tire, the more toe is needed. I figure MAYBE as much as 1/4" toe-in with the KR tires. Can anyone tell me what 0.10d is in inches??? I tenth of one degree....sheesh, I'd need to be a freakin' math surgeon to figure that one out! Thanks Tob, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Phill, the S197 chassis is set up to allow far more positive caster than ever before. It's a good thing! The issue I ran into when lowering my car was attaining the camber numbers I desired. There simply isn't enough of a slot at the top of each strut tower to allow for enough movement. As to toe, I went with an 1/16" to an 1/8" of toe in, which is pretty much a general or standard number. I found the specs in the factory (on-line) service manual and that's what they are! However, for the Shelby it calls for ZERO toe with +/- 0.20d. The Mustang calls for the one BMR gave me. When I set my camber, I'll show you a even easier way than the Longacre gauge! I only string the car for my toe setting. I also have a set of Tanner turn-plates so I can set my caster at +20d and -20d of wheel input. And check/set the ackerman if I want too. Man, 7d just sounds like SO much....I'm surprised we can turn the damn wheel on these things! Good thing we have power assist! Thanks for the help, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tob Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 I'm interested to see what you are using to check ackerman. Short of moving the rack, there really isn't much you can do to change it anyway, but I'd like to see how you are checking it Phill. Tob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 I'm interested to see what you are using to check ackerman. Short of moving the rack, there really isn't much you can do to change it anyway, but I'd like to see how you are checking it Phill. Tob You check it with degreed turn-plates. Look up Tanner Racing Equipment and see if they have a pic of a set. If not, I'll snap a couple of quick pics and post 'em. Believe it or not, you can change how a car corners by adding or subtracting ackerman. Problem is.....it changes your toe when you change your ackerman! I just came in from the garage to try and get some heat in my old bones and I'm headed back out. I'll take my camera and if doesn't freeze the LCD screen and crack it, I'll snap some pics of the plates and the can of paint another TS member asked aboiut on my fuel rail post. BTW, how much did that Longacre gauge set you back. I should get one but like I said, I'm old school and I can set/change camber without that gauge and I can get caster close. Remember, all Caster is, is the kingpin inclination. That's the difference between where the top of the spindle rotates and the bottom of the spindle rotates. It's the "angle" between the two points reletive to "plumb" (the vertical counterpart of "level" or horizontal). More in awhile. Man, it's COLLLLLD outside! Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 I'm interested to see what you are using to check ackerman. Short of moving the rack, there really isn't much you can do to change it anyway, but I'd like to see how you are checking it Phill. Tob Here ya go, from the Tanner site: http://mittlerbros.com/setup.php 2nd photo from the bottom of the page, I'll try to attach a photo. That's what I have except mine aren't anodized black. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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