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I installed my J&M LCA's


Cdvision

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I got up this morning and decided to install my J&M LCA's. It's a pretty simple job and took about 1 hour actual wrench time, half an hour to make two trips from my storage locker to the parking garage with all the tools floor jack, axle stands, etc., 15 min to relocated my misplaced wheel lock that I had set down in my tool bag and 15 min to admire my work. So 2 hours start to finish. Lol

I've been wearing disposable Black Nitrile Gloves lately at find they give some protection to my hands and make clean up way easier. That synthetic grease is a bitch to get off your hands.

Black Nitrile Gloves

After I cleaned up I went for a road test. No noticeable additional road noise and a reduction, not complete elimination of wheel hop, I'd say a 25-30% reduction. My UCA is waiting for me to install and that should rid me of any more wheel hop.

LCA's are an easy worthwhile upgrade.

 

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did you reuse the same hardware? I was told you should get new bolts etc..

 

I reused nuts and bolts and added a little blue loctite to the threads. I had resued the hardware on my old supercharged 2006 Mustang GT and had the arms on and off a couple times with no problem and lots of hard launches on drag radials.

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Looks good are those steel LCAs ?

get the upper done wheel hop will be gone just lost of tire smoke. I remember when I had mine done Should have take a picture it was fun

 

Steel arms. Yeah when I did the lowers on my 2006 GT it reduced the hop and the addition of the upper eliminated it. I'm dreading changing out the upper....it's not that bad of a job , it's just a pain to get the torque wrench up in there to get everything torqued to spec. That'll be my next week job. Lol

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NICE

How did you secure the e brake cable? Any pix?

 

You can see the ebrake cable in the pics I posted. It sits on top of the control arm, no need to secure, although a guy(or gal) could use a zip tie if he(she) wanted.

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I have the same torque wrench!! Canadian Tire!!

 

Yes good old Ukranian Tire!!! Lol

I bought it when they had one of their 60% off deals. I have a old Craftsman that is a bit shorter for tighter spaces.

I live across the street from a Canadian Tire here in Vancouver. So I wander in there every week looking for deals on tools, etc.

I was in there a few months ago to buy a 18 mm gear wrench. It was $22 or they had a 10mm-18mm 7 wrench set for $39(reg $89). I bought the set even though I already had the other sizes. Too good of a deal to pass up.

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You can see the ebrake cable in the pics I posted. It sits on top of the control arm, no need to secure, although a guy(or gal) could use a zip tie if he(she) wanted.

 

 

It may rattle sometimes, I tied my down because of this.

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It may rattle sometimes, I tied my down because of this.

 

Rattle??? :headscratch: It has a wrap around it (that can be seen clearly in the third pic) to prevent this on the 2010's. It didn't rattle when it went throught the hole in the stock arm and it doesn't rattle now. I know lots of guys with aftermarket LCA's and have never heard of anyone having a park brake cable rattle. Chances are if you're hearing a rattle from the rear it is another problem.

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I had heard in the past from several folks that LCA's alone would remove the wheel hop altogether. am I misinformed?

 

SLC

 

 

If you want to get rid of wheel hop change the upper arm. The big rubber bushing in the upper arm is the main problem. The lowers reduce the hop and help tighten up the rear suspension. I'll probably install my upper control arm next week. The guys that say LCA's eliminated their wheel hop have not tried launching their cars on a prepped track. Lol

Also some road surfaces are less prone to revealing wheel hop.

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If you want to get rid of wheel hop change the upper arm. The big rubber bushing in the upper arm is the main problem. The lowers reduce the hop and help tighten up the rear suspension. I'll probably install my upper control arm next week. The guys that say LCA's eliminated their wheel hop have not tried launching their cars on a prepped track. Lol

Also some road surfaces are less prone to revealing wheel hop.

 

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'll be watching this thread to see your install of the UCA's.

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If you want to get rid of wheel hop change the upper arm. The big rubber bushing in the upper arm is the main problem. The lowers reduce the hop and help tighten up the rear suspension. I'll probably install my upper control arm next week. The guys that say LCA's eliminated their wheel hop have not tried launching their cars on a prepped track. Lol

Also some road surfaces are less prone to revealing wheel hop.

 

 

 

True. I only changed my UCA and left the lowers stock. No wheel hop. And yes, it is a pain to torque the UCA flag bolt..

 

Good luck,

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just installed my J&M adjustable upper (street), Shelby UCA bracket, J&M adjustable panhard, Steeda panhard brace, Eibach Pro-kit and Tokico D-specs. The difference is flat out unbelievable. I still have the J&M lowers and CHE relocation brackets to finish up, but I have zero wheel hop and the forward acceleration is so much smoother.

I think it took me a total of 4 1/2 hours to do the entire job without a lift. These cars are cake to work on.

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I just installed my J&M adjustable upper (street), Shelby UCA bracket, J&M adjustable panhard, Steeda panhard brace, Eibach Pro-kit and Tokico D-specs. The difference is flat out unbelievable. I still have the J&M lowers and CHE relocation brackets to finish up, but I have zero wheel hop and the forward acceleration is so much smoother.

I think it took me a total of 4 1/2 hours to do the entire job without a lift. These cars are cake to work on.

 

Excellent!! I was all ready to do my upper today, I even had a buddy that was going to lend a hand holding the light. Lol

But I was feeling lazy so I didn't get it done.

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