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jwestercamp

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Great garages. What kind of flooring do you have?

 

 

It SwistraxI got it from Traci at Swisstrax those people are great. I can get you their number its a bit pricey but well worth it. They are great people over there. I will upload more photos i got my hood mounted on the wall now the clean up begins and orginization.

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Looks like you have the same problem I have....too much crap and not enough garage.

 

Every time I clear a new spot out my wife thinks, "COOL! I can put more crap out there now."

 

Once I get a garden shed built in my backyard I can get rid of all the lawn/garden care crap (mower, edger, seed/fertilizer spreader, blah X 3).

 

Once I complete my fence, I'll have all of the fencing lumber out.

 

That ought'a clear out one whole stall....and then my wife will want to park her Benz in it!

 

 

I can't win,

Phill

 

 

i hear ya brother. I bought a shed and it sits next to the house its a 8X 12 for the mower and hopefully kid crap. My wife makes fun of it and calls it a molester shed. It matches the siding on the house and roof and has a couple windows. Cant win.

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Hey that last picture looks familar. what a snow storm we had this week!

 

 

 

yep the one and only how did you guys hold up down there i have a friend that lives about a mile outside of iowa city near Iowa City Motorsports on a farm and he said they didn't get his road plowed out till late Wed night. I think the crews up here did a great job clearing the highway.

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I could use some garage advice while we're on the subject:

 

I really wanna add a two-post lift to my garage. I like the MaxJax lift, it suits all my needs, but it needs to have anchors (threaded inserts) recessed into the concrete.

My concrete floor has a warning impressed into it that reads "Pre-Tensioned Slab - Do Not Penetrate".

 

Are my hopes dashed on this?

I really want a two-post, a lot of my upcoming work will need to be done with the wheels hung free, so a drive-on won't cut it.

 

I sent Dannmar's Support Dept. an email about this, no reply. Maybe THAT should be a hint...

 

 

Jer

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I could use some garage advice while we're on the subject:

 

I really wanna add a two-post lift to my garage. I like the MaxJax lift, it suits all my needs, but it needs to have anchors (threaded inserts) recessed into the concrete.

My concrete floor has a warning impressed into it that reads "Pre-Tensioned Slab - Do Not Penetrate".

 

Are my hopes dashed on this?

I really want a two-post, a lot of my upcoming work will need to be done with the wheels hung free, so a drive-on won't cut it.

 

I sent Dannmar's Support Dept. an email about this, no reply. Maybe THAT should be a hint...

 

 

Jer

 

YEP, Jer, your in trouble there!

 

That means you live somewhere where there is 'expansive' soil. I'm NOT in the trades, but have had lot's of experience with this owning many homes in and around expansive soil.

 

You have a slab poured 'on top' of the soil without a footing surrounding the perimeter. this way, the slab can float ever so slightly. This is an exaggeration, but it is the thought that the home won't crack if it moves a little. The slab is poured with rebar running through it in several directions...'hence the pre-tension' description. If you were to drill into it, you would drill into the rebar and compromise the structural integrity of the slab!

 

:):(

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YEP, Jer, your in trouble there!

 

That means you live somewhere where there is 'expansive' soil. I'm NOT in the trades, but have had lot's of experience with this owning many homes in and around expansive soil.

 

You have a slab poured 'on top' of the soil without a footing surrounding the perimeter. this way, the slab can float ever so slightly. This is an exaggeration, but it is the thought that the home won't crack if it moves a little. The slab is poured with rebar running through it in several directions...'hence the pre-tension' description. If you were to drill into it, you would drill into the rebar and compromise the structural integrity of the slab!

 

:):(

 

 

Thanks - that's what I figured... groan......

Do any lifts NOT require inserts to be drilled into the floor? Or is there an alternate way to install one?

 

Jer

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oops

 

 

 

That sucks i know some of the four post drive on hosit there is an option to hilit bolt it to the floor. Mine had that option but i felt it was safer and secure that i bolted it. One option you have with a drive on, what I did is bought a trolley that will roll the length of the car that jacks the car up so kinda gives me the best of both worlds. One idea you could do and i am no engineer but if you got the four post system maybe you could get some metal plate and bolt all four post together for ridigity and that may work for you. Just a thought.

 

Jon

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That sucks i know some of the four post drive on hosit there is an option to hilit bolt it to the floor. Mine had that option but i felt it was safer and secure that i bolted it. One option you have with a drive on, what I did is bought a trolley that will roll the length of the car that jacks the car up so kinda gives me the best of both worlds. One idea you could do and i am no engineer but if you got the four post system maybe you could get some metal plate and bolt all four post together for ridigity and that may work for you. Just a thought.

 

Jon

 

 

Thanks, Jon - what hoist and trolley jack do you have?

 

Jer

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i bought all my stuff from complete hydrulics and the gal i talked to is Karen. Give her a call and tell her that i recommended it. I dont get anything but she is really in the know. What is does is rolls anywhere from one end to the other and has a pump jack on it that lifts up. Works pretty sweet. I really like it. They may even have some ideas for you that would help. but if you spent the $$ and put a rectangular plate to tie all the legs together and spread the weight i would think that would work.

 

Jon

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Jer I have radiant tubing in my floor for heating so I can't penetrate the floor either. I have a BendPak 4 post lift that does not require being bolted down and works great. I currently jack the car up using the runway with a scissor jack with no problem. I have done suspension changes. If you add bridge jacks you can jack the car up kind of like a 2 post. The bridge jacks are not cheep. They are pneumatic and hang between the runways. They won't work for everything (dropping the engine, etc.) but should work for many things.

 

119420-2.jpg

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Jer I have radiant tubing in my floor for heating so I can't penetrate the floor either. I have a BendPak 4 post lift that does not require being bolted down and works great. I currently jack the car up using the runway with a scissor jack with no problem. I have done suspension changes. If you add bridge jacks you can jack the car up kind of like a 2 post. The bridge jacks are not cheep. They are pneumatic and hang between the runways. They won't work for everything (dropping the engine, etc.) but should work for many things.

 

 

 

Y'know, I loved the MaxJax because it wasn't so substantial, and if I moved, it would break down small enough to take with me, etc... Plus, it comes in around $2K shipped.

I gotta look at the Bendpak stuff, I've heard a lot of good feedback about them.

 

Some of the tasks I want to do soon: BMR K-member and A arms, Kooks longtubes w/ hi-flow cats, new shocks, maybe a driveshaft, drop the rear end for rust treatment, BMR UCA and mount, maybe a clutch job as I get braver. <grin>

 

 

Jer

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I don't own a bridge jack yet but hopefully someone here can jump in with direct experience. I found a thread that shows how the bridge jack works. This guy is using it with a lowered Vette. Anyway here it is: http://www.garagejou...ead.php?t=59336

 

 

Thanks for that link... I gotta say, seeing the stuff all packed up on the forklift and how it needed to be assembled scares me a bit.

I might be biting off too much, I can't see that being easy if I ever had to relocate.

 

Grrr.... I know, I'm being a wuss.

 

Jer

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Garage Journal - There's a forum for everything. Great info

 

 

Thanks, yeah, that is the forum Slabo linked to... Looked like just what the doctor ordered.

I'll be digging around for the next few days, I'm sure...

 

Thanks again,

 

Jer

 

 

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Do any lifts NOT require inserts to be drilled into the floor? Or is there an alternate way to install one?

 

 

At the last shop I worked in we had one bay for the tire guy. His bay had a small, "semi-portable" lift in it that would lift a car high enough to make it easy for the tech to remove the tires...it would lift the car about 3 or 4 feet up off the ground. I say "semi-portable" because it wasn't mounted to the floor and you could, if you wanted, move it from bay to bay. Oh, it wasn't on wheels and it wasn't light but you COULD move (drag?) it.

 

It wouldn't be at all good for working under the car because it wouldn't put the underside high enough to stand under, but too high to roll under...but it was GREAT for tires and brakes.

 

It was old and I've never seen another like it but it would also be GREAT for a home garage with a low ceiling.

 

So yeah, they DO make lifts that don't attach to the floor and I'd have to assume that there are other drive-on types (four post) that you could probably find nowdays too.

 

One reason I haven't purchased a lift is because of my ceiling height. My 2-car port is under my 2nd story so I can't go any higher with it but my 1-car port just has a roof (with hung ceiling) over it. After seeing one with a valuted ceiling, I got to thinking! (it IS possible).

 

I just don't know how I could brace the trusses so I could remove the ceiling joists and vault the ceiling. I'll need to get a construction guy over to look and see if it's possible as I can't (i.e. WON'T) pay to have my roof lifted and even if I wanted to, my HOA wouldn't allow it.

 

Sorry, got off on a tangent there.....

 

 

HTH,

Phill

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I just bought a Superlifts 4 post lift at Barrett Jackson. The salesman said no need to bolt it down. It also comes with casters that can be attached to the lift, lower it down, and then you can push the lift around.

 

Thay also make these which may be an option for you.

 

tmr48-big.jpg

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I just bought a Superlifts 4 post lift at Barrett Jackson. The salesman said no need to bolt it down. It also comes with casters that can be attached to the lift, lower it down, and then you can push the lift around.

 

Thay also make these which may be an option for you.

 

tmr48-big.jpg

 

 

I like that scissor lift idea... some mods would be tough, but it's still nicer than jacks and stands!

Is there a locking pin for safety that goes in there anywhere?

 

Jer

 

 

 

 

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yeah i saw those at Barrett Jackson they are a nice company. The funny thing about made in america lifts i have found out is that only parts are made in america kind of like ford chevy or dodge where they are assembled in america but many of the parts are from mexico, china in the case of GM wheels. So that can be somewhat misleading. They are a great hoist though. I was going to buy one but just couldn't stomach to spend 4k. They are way sweet with the diamond plate runners etc.

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Thanks for that link... I gotta say, seeing the stuff all packed up on the forklift and how it needed to be assembled scares me a bit.

I might be biting off too much, I can't see that being easy if I ever had to relocate.

 

Grrr.... I know, I'm being a wuss.

 

Jer

 

 

Jer, it's really not that bad if you've done any wrenching you can put together a lift just be sure to use leather gloves when handling the cable.

 

I have a simple inexpensive solution to the problems you guy's are having and that is:

 

1. Purchase a quality 4 post (drive on) lift. I like the ones with a big footprint for more stability w/o bolting it down (and get the casters)

2. Buy 4ea tall jack stands (these can be puchaced at any place that you can buy a lift for not much $

3. Place and adjust the stand to contact a good lifting point under the car

4. Either use the stand adjustment to lift the vehicle or (carefully) lower the lift to gain the desired lift off the lift runway

5. At this point you will know what to do to put the car back on the ground

 

I have been useing this method for a number of years and it works great however, you have to use reasonable care when the vehicle is off the lift. You can use this method in concert with a lift jack plate and jack stands to give the vehicle more stability. Also obviously don't leave the car with wheel(s) off the runway for a long periods of time unattended unless you insure the runways are on the locks or on another set of (4) jackstands.

 

When I bought the 4 post my son was saying how stupid it was because there is so much you can't do with it. He doesn't say that any longer. The above method works great for wheels, brakes, suspension, etc. However, changing out a rear end get's a little tricky but it can be done. The 2 post has it's positives just like the 4 post has it's negitives but with all the +'s of the 4 post lift: movable (with or w/o a vehicle on it), quick and easy to get up in the air, no pinch weld issuse, etc, etc. I actually prefer it.

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yeah i saw those at Barrett Jackson they are a nice company. The funny thing about made in america lifts i have found out is that only parts are made in america kind of like ford chevy or dodge where they are assembled in america but many of the parts are from mexico, china in the case of GM wheels. So that can be somewhat misleading. They are a great hoist though. I was going to buy one but just couldn't stomach to spend 4k. They are way sweet with the diamond plate runners etc.

 

From their website

 

"There’s not a better lift. When you purchase an SR-7H, you have purchased “ the best “. We know that you could settle for one of the cheap Chinese lifts, that’s just one of the reasons we have to make it better. We cut and form every part on CNC machinery in our factory in Aurora, MO. Your lift will also be welded by skilled American Workers and engineered by some of the finest in the lift business! Your lift will go thru a minimum of 10 Quality control check points before shipping! Our own in house powder-coating system allows you to have a large choice of colors and has a “show quality” finish. We do not use any inferior components on this lift. Your safety and your vehicle safety relies on it!!!

 

 

Here to Stay. Since our inception in 1992 we’ve sold lifts to many, many, celebrities, athletes, automobile manufacturers, Fortune 500 companies, and 20,000 + regular guys who we value just as much. Although we were chosen for our outstanding quality and service, we have also outlasted most of our competition. Inferior quality and poor service has taken out most American Lift manufacturers. The Mexican Lift companies invaded in the late 90’s and disappeared a few years later. It’s only a matter of time until China’s poor quality catches up to them also. In the meantime, SuperLifts will be here building “nothing but the best” for our customers."

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they are a quality lift not saying they are not just for the hobbiest little more than they want to spend no more than it is used. They are a great company my dad has one of their lifts and it is a great piece. Cant go wrong either way in my opinion i just wanted the extra money to buy the supercharger upgarde kit for my car. I will agree that the chineese hoists arent made to some of the tolerances as some of the amenrican units but if you look close at the hoist from this company and complete they look very very similar

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Thay also make these which may be an option for you.

tmr48-big.jpg

 

 

HEY! Well I'll be dipped in....

 

THAT is just like the one I was talking about in my previous post. Ours wasn't all nice and purty and red like that, but if it's not the same *exact* lift as that, it's a real close duplicate to it. And remember, our was used in a commercial setting so it got used HARD (and often) as opposed to a home setting where it gets used occasionally.

 

I can tell you from first hand experience that that lift works really well. Like I said, it's probably not real good for undercar work but it's GREAT for tire & brake work, or getting the car up to detail the lower half when you have a bad back like I do. NO BENDING!!!

 

I suppose you could use the lift to raise the car up to max height and then make some stands to sit the car on and keep the car up in the air, then remove the lift and get under it for...whatever.

 

Do you have a link/URL to whoever sells that lift?

EDIT: Saw the link in a follow-up post. TIA

 

I may just have to settle for something like that as it's better than my present floor jack and 4 jackstands.

 

 

Phill

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