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Brake rotors


Firekiller

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Easy folks.... I put a crack in very hole of my Brembo Gran Turismos with cross drills. It is the repeated extreme heat that will do them in. The HPS pads would give up before the rotors would. With HP+ the rotors couldn't handle the temp that the pads could.

 

The same day, I cracked the drilled front rotors on my girlfriend's Terminator running the Baer ceramic pads. If you track your car (I know the op wishes not to) I would recommend avoiding drilled rotors.

 

34551_10150216703085624_682330623_13816701_7378680_n.jpg

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Easy folks.... I put a crack in very hole of my Brembo Gran Turismos with cross drills. It is the repeated extreme heat that will do them in. The HPS pads would give up before the rotors would. With HP+ the rotors couldn't handle the temp that the pads could.

 

The same day, I cracked the drilled front rotors on my girlfriend's Terminator running the Baer ceramic pads. If you track your car (I know the op wishes not to) I would recommend avoiding drilled rotors.

 

34551_10150216703085624_682330623_13816701_7378680_n.jpg

 

This picture proves exactly why good practices must be followed when drilling brake rotors. The chamfer style used on these (standard angle type) is not the best way to go. The only way to improve this style of hole is to peen them with a hammer and ball bearing like we used to do for qualifying on Indycars. Otherwise, it is much better to use a radius chamfer to lessen the effects of the stress risers.

 

Obviously, drilled rotors should not be used for serious track work. But enthusiasts that participate in the occasional HPDE can and do get away with properly done drilled (and drilled AND slotted) rotors if they are not animals in the braking zones. As soon as you are overheating regular performance pads and going for stickier tires, it is then time to move up to J-Hook or slotted rotors. For those not going to the track, drilled rotors provide additional bite that slotted-only rotors can't exactly match. In a panic stop on a freeway, it is a clear advantage.

 

Chris

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Avoid cross drilling altogether on a GT500. As Wilwood puts it

 

There is a common mis-perception that rotors are drilled to improve cooling. The reduced mass of a drilled rotor will dissipate its retained heat quicker, but it also builds up heat at a much faster rate. The decision to use drilled rotors should be solely based on the merits of the lower rotating and unsprung weight, and not for improved cooling. It is not wise to use drilled rotors in sustained high heat on hard braking tracks unless the team budget affords a high frequency of rotor and brake pad replacement.

http://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Catalogs/TechCatalog.pdf

 

Give Bruce at FTBR a call if you'd like to get serious. More here. I rather like the way he puts it...

 

Ok, now having said that, drilled rotors may be fine and dandy for show cars and driving around on the street. They may look cool and impress people that don't know a lot about rotors. But I have seen drilled rotors fail at the race track more times than I care to admit. These failed rotors are typically the cheap Chinese stuff you find on ebay for $40-$60 a pop, but I have even seen good drilled rotors like Brembos crack at the track.

 

If you haven't been able to tell by now, I'm not a fan of drilled rotors and we will never sell them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just to update, I just went to Stillen website and according to them, the have replacement rotors for the GT500. Both front and rear in several different configurations. I think this is the route I will go since Brembo still has not released theirs. Oh by the way under $ 500.00 for the set.

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This picture proves exactly why good practices must be followed when drilling brake rotors. The chamfer style used on these (standard angle type) is not the best way to go. The only way to improve this style of hole is to peen them with a hammer and ball bearing like we used to do for qualifying on Indycars. Otherwise, it is much better to use a radius chamfer to lessen the effects of the stress risers.

 

Obviously, drilled rotors should not be used for serious track work. But enthusiasts that participate in the occasional HPDE can and do get away with properly done drilled (and drilled AND slotted) rotors if they are not animals in the braking zones. As soon as you are overheating regular performance pads and going for stickier tires, it is then time to move up to J-Hook or slotted rotors. For those not going to the track, drilled rotors provide additional bite that slotted-only rotors can't exactly match. In a panic stop on a freeway, it is a clear advantage.

 

Chris

 

 

You guys should offer Rotors for the Super Snake and upgraded Baer users, both the front and +2 rear.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All, I'm the one that posted the note about Baer having the slotted / Cross drilled rotors.

I just received my shipment about a week ago, but haven't had the free time to slap them on the car just yet...

Hoping to do this on Friday... I've ran these same rotors on my 03 Terminator, never had a problem, and drove them hard.

Unfortunately never on the track, but with the new Shelby, I'm definitely going to hit a track day at Willow Springs and try them out.

 

I'll keep you all posted, and post some pictures once they're on the car. ;)

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