2007_Shelby_GT Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Well, I'm detecting a bit of clutch slippage, (RPM fluctuations but no smoke/smell), and I suspect it's only a matter of time before a replacement is necessary, especially after adding the supercharger! As far as a replacement, I'm considering the Spec2+/3+. Anyway, when the time comes, I was hoping this was something I could tackle on my own. Anyone have experience with the SGT clutch and it's replacement? Any good DIY guides out there? All help appreciated! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Remove shifter knob, remove shifter arm, remove CAI, loosen both motor mounts, remove driveshaft, remove exhaust. Lift the front of the motor with a jack to angle the drive train to gain access to top bell housing bolts. Remove bell housing bolts. Remove transmission, Replace clutch and flywheel. Oh, make sure you have some wobble sockets, air tools, a compressor, and a 3' extension. If you are handy should take you about 2.5 - 3 hours. If you use a four post lift you will have to lift the rears wheels off the ramp to get to all the drive shaft bolts. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 For what it's worth, 2+ gets really bad reviews, and the 3+ seems to be hit or miss with people liking it.... from what I read of others experiences, the McLeod twin disks are the hot setup for the street.... All that is 2nd hand knowledge, but I've been reading up for a while on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 I am running a Spec stage 3, so far I love it. Went with an aluminum flywheel. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Remove shifter knob, remove shifter arm, remove CAI, loosen both motor mounts, remove driveshaft, remove exhaust. Lift the front of the motor with a jack to angle the drive train to gain access to top bell housing bolts. Remove bell housing bolts. Remove transmission, Replace clutch and flywheel. Oh, make sure you have some wobble sockets, air tools, a compressor, and a 3' extension. If you are handy should take you about 2.5 - 3 hours. If you use a four post lift you will have to lift the rears wheels off the ramp to get to all the drive shaft bolts. Chris Chris, have you done this with the Whipple? It appears it has to come off to get any angle out of the engine with how close it is to the firewall, but I'm not certain.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 yes, did this with the whipple. It cleared just fine. just be careful and just jack up the front end enough to get to the bolts. I had more than an inch of clearance. Chris Edit: This is a you and a buddy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 maybe.... lol, I've changed transmissions and clutches by myself before, not sure how the weight compares on old stuff though... I will take a closer look at my whipple, but I would swear I have way less than an inch to start with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueone Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Well, I'm detecting a bit of clutch slippage, (RPM fluctuations but no smoke/smell), and I suspect it's only a matter of time before a replacement is necessary, especially after adding the supercharger! As far as a replacement, I'm considering the Spec2+/3+. Anyway, when the time comes, I was hoping this was something I could tackle on my own. Anyone have experience with the SGT clutch and it's replacement? Any good DIY guides out there? All help appreciated! Sam http://www.americanmuscle.com/simple-spec-clutch-install.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 I had the SPEC stage 3+ for about 900 miles and removed it. I wouldn't recommend any SPEC clutch. I replaced it with the Ram twin disc. SPEC, like someone else said, is hit or miss, and from what is available on the internet, seems to be way too many misses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogie65 Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 With the design of the E-force it is a very tight fit and you may end up needing to pull the blower in order to get it done as there is is not enough room to tilt the motor back. Here's a thread from S197 that has some details Clutch replacement on E-force Looking forward to your feedback if you do this yourself as I am sure a new clutch will needed in mine down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 For what it's worth, 2+ gets really bad reviews, and the 3+ seems to be hit or miss with people liking it.... from what I read of others experiences, the McLeod twin disks are the hot setup for the street.... All that is 2nd hand knowledge, but I've been reading up for a while on it! Just to throw my two cents in.... I'm running the McLeod twin disc, recommended and installed by the Tasca Mod Shop. As far as clutch replacement, the second post seem to cover it all! I would give myself a weekend to do it if I were you and it was your first time. If you are mechanically inclined and can take stuff apart and put it back together it should be a good days work. For me the toughest part of replacing a clutch is realigning the transmission when you are reinstalling it. But when you're done it gives ya a good feeling of having done it yourself. Good luck and keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slbgtsc Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 I've had a zoom twin disc-failed due to manufacturing issue with in 500 miles (warranty replacement) sold on ebay Two spec 2+ clutches, 1st one went out with in 700 miles (200 after break in) sent it back to spec and they warrantied it. I had already gone with the zoom. When the zoom failed I stuck the 2nd spec 2+ in and it has been solid so far. It makes a frustrating chirp noise on every down shift, and when taking off from a light. I will go with either a Ram dual disc or the RXT twin disc. I am done with Spec/ single disc clutches in general. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted December 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Well, based on the comments, it might seem the Spec clutch may not be the way to go!? I really don't want to have to go through this again for a while - say another 30K miles or so! I don't drive the car hard, but I certainly don't baby her either. (I definitely want to be able to take advantage of ALL of those horses whenever they are called upon!) So, like most folks, I'm looking for a solid, reliable set-up that can handle street "abuse" (for lack of a better term at the moment) and limited track time. Additionally, it would appear there are one or two other items I should look into while replacing the clutch - slave cylinder line for instance? More research needed - I will look into Mcleod and Ram... As usual, thanks to all! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csm198 Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 Jesus, I wish I would have seen these reviews before I shelled out the money for a spec 2+. Why does shelby sell these damn things if they are not any good? Frustrating as hell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 You gotta love this forum! Looks like Mcleod Twin Disk is a good set-up with near stock pedal feel and able to handle plenty of horsepower/torque. (way more than I have!) While I'm under there, I'll replace the plastic slave line with a braided stainless steel version - anbody think of any other "must haves" for this task? Interesting reading about how to ease the job of pulling/replacing the transmission. I was hoping to minimize the hassle as much as possible, but if I have to remove the supercharger, I will! However, instead of removing the supercharger,(to be able to tilt the motor), lowering the engine by temporarily removing the motor mounts sounds like a resonable alternative - any thoughts? Those that have the Mcleod, did you replace the stock flywheel or just resurface it and install the new clutch? (Mcleod says you can replace OR resurface and reuse the stock flywheel) Thanks all! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 I believe the twin disc clutch assemblies requires an aluminum flywheel, which comes in most kits. The cast flywheel is too heavy for a twin disc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 I believe the twin disc clutch assemblies requires an aluminum flywheel, which comes in most kits. The cast flywheel is too heavy for a twin disc. While I can't say that you are correct... I won't argue with you either! I do know that Tasca installed the aluminum flywheel with the McLeod twin disc wheter it came with or not I don't know. It was just one price though so maybe it did. For anyone else that has a Twin disc like these do you know if they have a rather distinct odor when slipping them? Mine seems to smell rather easily. for instance when I back it in the garage, parallel parking or if I am stuck in traffic. It could be like Sam said, due to the feel of it I'm just slipping it more than I think and with the increased surface area of two discs.... just asking that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Doug, it sounds like an organic clutch, which is what I have. They do have a distinct odor if slipped some. My info on the aluminum flywheels was provided by a tech at Ram clutches when I was researching a new clutch. He said that the cast flywheels will not work properly with the dual or twin discs. Due to the added weight of a twin disc, the flywheel needs to be lighter. If the assembly gets too heavy, he said you'll play hell taking off from a dead stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Doug, it sounds like an organic clutch, which is what I have. They do have a distinct odor if slipped some. My info on the aluminum flywheels was provided by a tech at Ram clutches when I was researching a new clutch. He said that the cast flywheels will not work properly with the dual or twin discs. Due to the added weight of a twin disc, the flywheel needs to be lighter. If the assembly gets too heavy, he said you'll play hell taking off from a dead stop. Okay sounds gute!!! Thanks, I asked the same question to the powers to be and never got an answer......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted December 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 I think I've settled on the Mcleod twin-disk. Found a Mcleod dealer nearby - Hurricane Performance - asking about a package deal to include install. Will provide updates. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lgs ShelbyGT Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I think I've settled on the Mcleod twin-disk. Found a Mcleod dealer nearby - Hurricane Performance - asking about a package deal to include install. Will provide updates. Sam Sam, Too funny, I just sent you a pm about my search coming up with the McLeod kit and now 5 minutes later find your post on the same topic. hmm, I didn't see anything negative elsewhere on using the stock steel flywheel with this setup though... Guess I'll have to research a bit more ...steel or aluminum Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Sam, Too funny, I just sent you a pm about my search coming up with the McLeod kit and now 5 minutes later find your post on the same topic. hmm, I didn't see anything negative elsewhere on using the stock steel flywheel with this setup though... Guess I'll have to research a bit more ...steel or aluminum Larry I caught that Larry, I decided to stick with the OEM steel flywheel. Oh, I'm sure there are arguments either way as far as aluminum vs steel, (just like Ford vs Chevy I suppose!), but McLeod says you can use the OEM flywheel (and they don't say you SHOULD use aluminum), so that's the road I'm taking. I just need to make this clutch last a bit longer till I get the Christmas bills paid! At this point, Hurricane Performance made me an offer of $690 for the McLeod RST, $220 for the FRPP stainless line, and $350 to install both. Add in incidentals and I figure around $1500 out the door. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 You may want to look at this before sticking with the stock flywheel... http://www.s197.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40109&highlight=flywheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERX009 Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I caught that Larry, I decided to stick with the OEM steel flywheel. Oh, I'm sure there are arguments either way as far as aluminum vs steel, (just like Ford vs Chevy I suppose!), but McLeod says you can use the OEM flywheel (and they don't say you SHOULD use aluminum), so that's the road I'm taking. I just need to make this clutch last a bit longer till I get the Christmas bills paid! At this point, Hurricane Performance made me an offer of $690 for the McLeod RST, $220 for the FRPP stainless line, and $350 to install both. Add in incidentals and I figure around $1500 out the door. Sam Let them do it that a great price !! but if you want I can fly down with my sledge hammer and crowbar ram the car up on a guard rail and bing !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 The Installation of the new flywheel, clutch, and stainless hydraulic line was completed yesterday without a hitch by Hurricane Performance of Orange Park, Florida. (Thanks to Jason, Robert, and Rick!) Some notes on the install: 1) I have the Edelbrock E-Force supercharger - IT DID NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED! 2) The strut brace was removed to allow clearance for the engine/transmission "rocking" during removal and installation. 3) The motor mounts WERE NOT TOUCHED! 4) Drive shaft was removed along with the exhaust system (cats, x-pipes, and tubing back to rear end) and forward heat shields. 5) Complete removal of the shifter WAS NOT NECESSARY - topside was left alone, the bottom side was disconnected from underneath before dropping the transmission. 6) There are three bolts that hold the starter in place and quite frankly, only the lower two are needed! (the top one is a real PITA and not worth reinstalling unless you have really tiny hands!) 7) Really long extensions (about three feet worth) and universal joints/wobble sockets are a must in order to get to the top bell housing bolts! They can be reached by un-bolting the transmission cross-member and letting the transmission droop while you go "over the top" with the extensions and wobble socket. Leave the bottom bolts till last when you can place a transmission jack underneath for support. 8) Once everything was unbolted, it was a surprisingly simple matter to rock/pull/twist the transmission free - clearances were tight, but not near the nightmare I was expecting. 9) Install of the new flywheel and clutch was straight forward - Mcleod supplied new bolts for this. 10) Stainless hydraulic line went in next - one for one replacement with the stock line. (Be really careful with the small clips that hold the line/fittings in place - they are, as we found out, very easy to lose! Now I know why they call them Jesus clips!) 11) Transmission reinstall was nearly as easy as the removal, just be patient! 12) Once everything was buttoned up and fluid topped off, a few dozen pumps of the clutch bled the line and install was complete - total time was about 4 to 5 hours. Oh, in a previous post I mentioned re-using the old flywheel, but I decided to go ahead and spring for a matching steel flywheel from Mcleod... Pics later! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Be sure to update on how it drives after break in too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Be sure to update on how it drives after break in too! Will do on that! One interesting and somewhat puzzling finding on the old clutch and flywheel: There wasn't any really visible indications of slippage! It looked in really great shape, just some very minor chatter marks, other than that, hardly any wear! Puzzling based on the symptoms, but I'll wait until the break-in period is over on the new clutch to make a final determination. Pedal feel seems smoother/softer than stock and on the drive home it felt like it had more grip. 450 more miles till break-in is complete! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Will do on that! One interesting and somewhat puzzling finding on the old clutch and flywheel: There wasn't any really visible indications of slippage! It looked in really great shape, just some very minor chatter marks, other than that, hardly any wear! Puzzling based on the symptoms, but I'll wait until the break-in period is over on the new clutch to make a final determination. Pedal feel seems smoother/softer than stock and on the drive home it felt like it had more grip. 450 more miles till break-in is complete! Sam Sam, I was told to shift quite a bit on my way home from Tasca, just so the clutch was not in the same position all the time. I don't know if you were told the same or not. Then again It may not matter with yours, but since they knew that I was going to 400 miles on mine on the ride home it made better sense. Just thought I'd throw that out there for ya. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Sam, I was told to shift quite a bit on my way home from Tasca, just so the clutch was not in the same position all the time. I don't know if you were told the same or not. Then again It may not matter with yours, but since they knew that I was going to 400 miles on mine on the ride home it made better sense. Just thought I'd throw that out there for ya. Doug Thanks Doug! My drive home was considerably shorter, only 50 miles! (10 miles of stop and go on each end with 30 miles of interstate in between) I plan on "working" the clutch normally, just no jackrabbit stuff till after about 500 miles. Here's a couple of pics - I seem to have lost a few due to some issue with my camera! Old clutch coming out: New clutch in the box: New flywheel installed: Old clutch - doesn't look bad at all! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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