twobjshelbys Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 My SGT started making some "clunking" noises when I would hit a bump. It was really noticeable when I'd go over any drain pan with a turn (when the front and rear suspension elements "roll" in the turn). I took it to the Ford dealer on Friday. He tried to clean up some of the FRPP elements and re-lube, but that didn't work so he's going to replace the rear FRPP components. Good thing I got it in before the warranty expired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARALD KELLEY Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 Not one of the rear muffler hangers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 Yeah, the muffler sounds like the likely culprit there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted November 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 More details? I can ask them to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 ^The stock SGT mufflers have some poorly attached hangers that have a tendency to break at the tiny welds. You may want to take a peek under there and see if you can move either muffler a lot more than the other. If so, they'll replace the entire muffler under warranty with a muffler that has a much better weld on the hanger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07CSM0260 Posted November 21, 2010 Report Share Posted November 21, 2010 It was the bushings on mine. Dealer replaced and it has been fine for 2 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 ^The stock SGT mufflers have some poorly attached hangers that have a tendency to break at the tiny welds. You may want to take a peek under there and see if you can move either muffler a lot more than the other. If so, they'll replace the entire muffler under warranty with a muffler that has a much better weld on the hanger. I gave both sides a good tug sideways and upside down at the tailpipe. If it were the hangers should I expect something to move around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Yes, the mufflers move much more freely if a broken hanger...plus you can just look under there when you pulling down on the muffler (via the exhaust tip) and see that the hanger is broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 I got a call yesterday that I need to bring the car back in to get some pictures. They assured me it is not muffler hangers (apparently they've run into that before). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT4265 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 I get the same noise from the L/R when turning into my driveway. As the weather turns colder, the noise is more frequent, will occur just driving down the road, sounds like the wheel is loose. Crawled under today & started moving stuff by hand, the left side sway bar bracket upper bushing has noticable play. Put a wrench to the nut but its tight. Urethane bushings are very suseptable to temp. changes. Guess i'll deal with it in the spring, all put away for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 I get the same noise from the L/R when turning into my driveway. As the weather turns colder, the noise is more frequent, will occur just driving down the road, sounds like the wheel is loose. Crawled under today & started moving stuff by hand, the left side sway bar bracket upper bushing has noticable play. Put a wrench to the nut but its tight. Urethane bushings are very suseptable to temp. changes. Guess i'll deal with it in the spring, all put away for now. I had same problem last year, I got under mine and used large quantities of WD-40 on the bushings which are most likely the reason it is making noise. It is intermittent, but a real pain the butt, and then most of the recurring problems with owning a Shelby are just part of the price you pay for modifications to the factory set up. I remember several posts on this and I believe there is a grease thing up there somewhere. Also look for loose rear shocks and the old muffler hanging bracket issue that breaks on some of our cars. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 I have a consistent clunk from the right rear. Everything is tight to specs and nearly new. I'm convinced it's bad tolerance sums in the upper (body-end) sway bar links. Under just the right combination of bump and speed, I'll hear it, but what it seems to be tied to is how much the rear springs are compressed. It was dependably present at about half-a-tank of fuel or more. After installing shorter springs, it is present at a quarter-tank and up. I believe the large bolts at the body end of the links are slightly too small, or the inner diameter of the link/bushing is a bit too large. Sometimes I drift off to sleep at night fantasizing a cure for sloppy tolerances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Has anyone had this fixed under warranty? My work was rejected. They said the suspension was modified. Well, doh! Yeah, by you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Has anyone had this fixed under warranty? My work was rejected. They said the suspension was modified. Well, doh! Yeah, by you! This doesn't surprize me based on their track record on fixing stuff. There is way too much finger pointing between Ford and Shelby on warranty issues including, in my opinion, the way the warranty process is set up, I believe Shelby and Ford just try to wear you down to the point you give up and fix it yourself. There is a post on the forum by a member that took the sway bars apart and greased the nylon bushings as he believed there was not enough lube applied by Shelby when installed in the original build. He did say it was a real pain. Just my thoughts. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Tad, I believe you are referring to this post: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/58481-fix-for-rear-sway-bar-squeak/page__p__998173__fromsearch__1#entry998173 The "grease" I used was anti-seize. It has been several months since I posted this thread and the squeaking and noise has not returned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I posted a topic about noises from my rear a while ago. I bought a new aluminum pan hard bar from Griggs racing. Turns out, that was the squeaking noise culprit I had going over bumps. The rubber bushings on the stock pan hard bar had no grease, were all dried up and the rubber was cracked. The new panhard bar has aluminum bushings which results in a harder quality ride. The noises and squeaking I had in the rear is now gone thanks to the new pan hard bar, BUT sometimes, if I'm on a rough road surface or hit a few bumps one after the other, I get a slight squeaking (sounds like something is shifting around) noise. I think its my mufflers. I upgraded to the KR mufflers, but they don't budge when I try to move them. My end synopsis is, our cars ride very rough. Our suspensions are very stiff, and it is going to make noises going over rough surfaces. I just try to ignore the noises sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitgs Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 I just installed my Eibach coil-over suspension I order from SPP during the sale. It is the same kit that is offered as an option on the 40th and the SS according to the catalog. During the install I made an observation that the upper rear swaybar links mounting point seemed a little sloppy. I complete the install and took my car out for a test drive. I didn't even make it out of the driveway and around the block before noticing a noise. Something between a rattle and a clunk but definitely sounded like something loose. Returned to the house got the car back up and checked all the nuts and bolts to see if somehow I overlooked something. After they all seemed tight I attempted to recreate the noise by shaking or moving each part I had worked on. With the car jacked up and secure on jackstand I was laying directly under the swaybar and I reached up and grabbed it on either side of the link and jerked it up and down and sure enough that was the noise I had heard. Put an extra turn on the wrench and took out the slop and no more noise. Maybe my findings will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawwy600 Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 my 2010 makes that sound also especially when turning at slow speeds. ford techs claim its because of the rear differential and that its "supposed to make that sound" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 my 2010 makes that sound also especially when turning at slow speeds. ford techs claim its because of the rear differential and that its "supposed to make that sound" Don't you just love those tech's telling you it's suspose to make that sound. I always think that's just crap. The cars should not do that.......... GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKSGT Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 I posted a topic about noises from my rear a while ago. I bought a new aluminum pan hard bar from Griggs racing. Turns out, that was the squeaking noise culprit I had going over bumps. The rubber bushings on the stock pan hard bar had no grease, were all dried up and the rubber was cracked. The new panhard bar has aluminum bushings which results in a harder quality ride. The noises and squeaking I had in the rear is now gone thanks to the new pan hard bar, BUT sometimes, if I'm on a rough road surface or hit a few bumps one after the other, I get a slight squeaking (sounds like something is shifting around) noise. I think its my mufflers. I upgraded to the KR mufflers, but they don't budge when I try to move them. My end synopsis is, our cars ride very rough. Our suspensions are very stiff, and it is going to make noises going over rough surfaces. I just try to ignore the noises sometimes. Your description of slight squeaking in a series of bumps is what I have had since getting the car. Last fall I did an experiment trying to restrict movement in lower edge of the rear facia. There are three tabs that attach that edge to the bumper structure and they all are kind of loose. Adding a little duct tape rolled up and wedged in location to minimize the movement resulted in the noises getting louder. Removed the tape and parked the car for the winter. Got the car out today and considering weather holds, I can look into this more. Interesting is center tab moves only front to rear with the car and the sides move in left-right direction. Fact that they can move explains more potential for squeak to clunk depending on severity of the wash board surface that triggers noise for me. I have a little fear in super gluing tabs to the structure and then get a tear in the facia when I hit these surfaces. Motion can be a good thing to improve fatigue conditions. DrKSGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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