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1 piece drive shaft


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If someone buys a new 1 piece high performance aluminum drive shaft, do they need other mods?

 

Like UCA or Lower control arms?

 

 

In the FWIW Department...I bought this:

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-aluminum-driveshafts-ford-mustang.html

 

and this:

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-upper-control-arm-for-2005-and-up-ford-mustang.html

 

The adjustable upper control arm was bought on the recommendation of some folks here. The mechanic who installed both for me - a transmission shop owner and performance Mustang owner/enthusiast - says the UCA wasn't really required, but, like chicken soup, couldn't hurt either. Note that if you do buy the Steeda upper control arm, you want this particular one - it's designed for "lowered" S-197 Mustangs like the SGT. The UCA debate aside, nothing else was required to make the swap.

 

In any event, I found the new aluminum driveshaft to be noticeably smoother than my OEM, at least at speeds up to 85 - 90 MPH. (I'm an old man, so I can't vouch for anything beyond that!)

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In the FWIW Department...I bought this:

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-aluminum-driveshafts-ford-mustang.html

 

and this:

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-upper-control-arm-for-2005-and-up-ford-mustang.html

 

The adjustable upper control arm was bought on the recommendation of some folks here. The mechanic who installed both for me - a transmission shop owner and performance Mustang owner/enthusiast - says the UCA wasn't really required, but, like chicken soup, couldn't hurt either. Note that if you do buy the Steeda upper control arm, you want this particular one - it's designed for "lowered" S-197 Mustangs like the SGT. The UCA debate aside, nothing else was required to make the swap.

 

In any event, I found the new aluminum driveshaft to be noticeably smoother than my OEM, at least at speeds up to 85 - 90 MPH. (I'm an old man, so I can't vouch for anything beyond that!)

 

I know alot of the racing parts put on our SGT's were painted blue, so those UCA look very nice.

 

I am looking to spend some christmas money on my car and I wanna do it right.

 

I don't think I have ever taken my SGT over 90 mph either.

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If someone buys a new 1 piece high performance aluminum drive shaft, do they need other mods?

 

Like UCA or Lower control arms?

 

The upper control arms should be installed on all lowered cars such as ours so as to set the correct pinion angle. This is important so that you don't have vibration and you don't wear your u-joints out prematurely. I believe my pinion angle is -2 degrees. Steeda or whereever you buy your d.s. will tell you what degree to start with. I bought my 4 in. shaft from the Axle-Exchange. If you have a lift then you probably can install the shaft and uca in about an hour and a half. Good-luck.

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I installed the Steeda non-adjustable UCA and a coast aluminum drive shaft and both worked out perfect. No vibs or rattles. I also did the LCA also.

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does going one piece change the angle?

 

I beleive the 2 piece driveshaft from Ford does have a different angle than a 1 piece driveshaft because the two piece has a bend in the middle, hense the 2 piece.

 

I think a 1 piece would make the angle less steep.

 

Thats why i ask about other parts required, or helpful in the upgrade.

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I never put anything else on my car besides the one peice from the Shelby Store and at first I had a vibration then we rotated 180 degrees and it was fine after that. Although if I hit a dip in the road and I am at WOT then I will hear a clunk in the rear end but thats only if I hit a dip and have it at full throttle. Which I guess I am at WOT alot but I do not hit many dips that often so its no big deal

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Did the car feel any better with the driveshaft swap?

 

My honest opinion, no. With the amount of horsepower you have i doubt you would feel 10 or 15 extra h.p. to the rear wheels. I changed mine when it was n/a and didn't feel any difference nor when i changed to shorty headers. I felt a difference with a different tune and a very big difference when i went with the 410's . I weighed the aluminum d/s and it weighed 21 lbs compared to 42 lbs on a digital scale.i'm sure there is some gain to the rear wheels but i'm probably not as in tune with my car as most. I don't have any vibration at 110 mph and i doubt i will ever drive any faster than that. I'm sure you already have more h.p. than traction so i doubt it would help you much in the 0 to 60 times or quarter mile but the ds certainly looks safer than the two piece.

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I never put anything else on my car besides the one peice from the Shelby Store and at first I had a vibration then we rotated 180 degrees and it was fine after that. Although if I hit a dip in the road and I am at WOT then I will hear a clunk in the rear end but thats only if I hit a dip and have it at full throttle. Which I guess I am at WOT alot but I do not hit many dips that often so its no big deal

 

 

Nordic....FYI......

 

The pinion angle can be adjusted to eliminate that clunk.....its actually the driveshaft moving up and hitting the housing under the center console at full load and encountering a dip..........

 

I had the same condition on my car when the one piece was installed. A simple pinion adjustment eliminated the problem.

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Did the car feel any better with the driveshaft swap?

 

Its hard to say because tires make a huge difference. I had nitto 555's on when they put the driveshaft on and I could not get any traction after the driveshaft install, so I actually was bummed at first then I put on a set of GT500 take off wheels (from the shelby store) and I could get better traction with them which sounds unlikely but it was true in my case. I do know that on the track the car seems quicker but it could just be that I am getting more experience which is why the car is faster. So to answer your question I don't really know because once you put the whipple on the SGT they are just crazy fast then,

 

 

Edit: I can't spell worth a SHIP

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Nordic....FYI......

 

The pinion angle can be adjusted to eliminate that clunk.....its actually the driveshaft moving up and hitting the housing under the center console at full load and encountering a dip..........

 

I had the same condition on my car when the one piece was installed. A simple pinion adjustment eliminated the problem.

 

 

The ford dealer who installed it said they checked that and it was fine but to be honest I think they just want me in and out as fast as they can. I will no longer bring my car to them as they had made many mistakes with my car. I will take your advice and bring it somewhere else and have them check the pinion angle and if its off then have them adjust it.

 

Just curious to who adjusted your pinion angle to finally get it right. I bet it was Alex when you brought it to California?

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The ford dealer who installed it said they checked that and it was fine but to be honest I think they just want me in and out as fast as they can. I will no longer bring my car to them as they had made many mistakes with my car. I will take your advice and bring it somewhere else and have them check the pinion angle and if its off then have them adjust it.

 

Just curious to who adjusted your pinion angle to finally get it right. I bet it was Alex when you brought it to California?

 

 

Yes it was Alex. He installed the drive shaft.

He didnt want to test drive my car all out at WOT so once I got back to pick it up, I took it for a WOT test drive with Alex riding shotgun.

We hit a dip at full trottle, I heard the drive shaft bang.

We took it back up the street, put it on the lift, adjusted the pinion, 15 minutes later I was test driving her again WOT......

 

no bang, no rubbing no nothing except extreme preformance and lots of smiles.

completely cured.

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I don't think I have ever taken my SGT over 90 mph either.

 

 

Really? I've been near 120...in 3rd gear! Open her up and let her breathe!

 

Did the car feel any better with the driveshaft swap?

 

 

Car felt smoother, seat-of-the-pants. I did a dyno bone stock and after wheels/DS, the numbers were virtually the same. In total, I think the rotational mass I lost from the aluminum DS was gained with the wheels/tires. My numbers below were bone-stock. The post DS WHP was 280...I didn't post because I couldn't get the TQ number at the time...

As a note, After much reserch my pinion angle on the LFP UCA was set at -1.5*

 

Now that I'm blown, I kinda wish I'd stayed with the stock two-piece.

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Really? I've been near 120...in 3rd gear! Open her up and let her breathe!

 

 

 

Car felt smoother, seat-of-the-pants. I did a dyno bone stock and after wheels/DS, the numbers were virtually the same. In total, I think the rotational mass I lost from the aluminum DS was gained with the wheels/tires. My numbers below were bone-stock. The post DS WHP was 280...I didn't post because I couldn't get the TQ number at the time...

As a note, After much reserch my pinion angle on the LFP UCA was set at -1.5*

 

Now that I'm blown, I kinda wish I'd stayed with the stock two-piece.

 

Agree.

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