MichaelP Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Hi - Im installing the FR3 handling pack on my car.. I thought I had all basis covered with the shop but was recently reading that a bumpsteer kit may be needed for my lowered car... Is everyone installing new camber plates and a bumpsteer kit with the FR3 Pack? Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMG Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 No. I just installed the FR "L" springs which come in that kit. My car had the same result as every other gt500 Ive read about. All it needed was a slight adjustment in toe. Camber was still within specs. Not sure it helped any but I noticed before I tighted lower strut bolts that there was a slight amount of play in them so I pulled out at top of rotor as I tightened them to maybe reduce some of the added neg. camber that may have been added by lowering.(if this makes sense to you) I think the FRPP springs loweer car less than other brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hi - Im installing the FR3 handling pack on my car.. I thought I had all basis covered with the shop but was recently reading that a bumpsteer kit may be needed for my lowered car... Is everyone installing new camber plates and a bumpsteer kit with the FR3 Pack? Thanks, Mike I'm adding the FR3 handling pack to my 2010 GT500 and I already have the Shelby bump stop tie rod ends and will eventually be getting the CS/MM caster/camber plates. You'll know if you need them after you lower your car. If you hit a bump and the car wants to 'dart' or steer to one side, you're tie-rod angle is too steep which is what the bump stop ends alter. They allow you to move the tie-rod ends up or down to keep the car from steering when it hits a bump. The caster/camber plates are just because I'm super anal and I want *my* specs on the front end, not necessarilty the factory/OEM specs on it. YMMV, Phill Pollard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelP Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 OK. Thanks guys... I will see how the car handles and Im sure my mod guy will add them if needed. Im taking out the BMR springs...they lowered the car too much for my taste and driving style. Just adding the lowering springs without the sway bars and dampners got the car lower but I dont think did much to improve corner carving capabilities.. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMG Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 I was going to do the whole kit but found a deal on the springs used so just done those first. I really thought I would end up adding shocks and bars but Im very happy with the way it handles and drives now. Keep in mind up till 4 weeks ago ive been driving a shelby gt which drives like a slot car. i really expected to be dissappointed in the 500 handling but for street it seems dead on for my taste. Only slightly softer the the gt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 OK. Thanks guys... I will see how the car handles and Im sure my mod guy will add them if needed. Im taking out the BMR springs...they lowered the car too much for my taste and driving style. Just adding the lowering springs without the sway bars and dampners got the car lower but I dont think did much to improve corner carving capabilities.. M. Lowering your car lowers the Center of gravity (Cg) so it will have *some* effect on how your car takes a corner, but not nearly as much as adding dampners and swaybars. By lowering the Cg you reduce "roll". When the car rolls, your Cg moves laterally which affects the handling of your car. You want the *suspension* to do all the work, not the body. When we raced quarter midgets on paved tracks we'd lower the car as much as humanly possible. We always set the car up with a baseline set-up on the scales at home and in practice we'd run the car on the optimal line. If it bottomed in a corner, we raised it on all 4 corners JUST enough so it didn't rub (when you bottom the car, you 'unload' the chassis). We ran all left turns so we typically put "tilt" into the car (raised the right side slightly more than the left). That wasn't to compensate for roll, it was to move the Cg as far 'inside' (left) as possible. We let the suspension compensate for roll by using heavier springs on the outside. With a road racer (left & right turns), you want it even on both sides. Again, to keep the Cg. constant rather than dynamic. That's way more than I needed to say but I hope it answered your question. If all you're looking for is a lower LOOK, springs will do it for you. If you want as much handling as you can get, it's all about shocks/struts and sway bars (and body stiffining). Also, if you can remove weight 'high' it's a bonus. We always went by the rule of thumb "one pound removed high is like ten pounds removed low". HTH, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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