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Shelby Bumpsteer Adjuster Rods


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I just looked in the package. It came with instructions. I know Shelby wouldn't leave ya hangin'. I was just looking to see if anyone had ever installed these and if they had any problems or any other issues with them. After reading the instructions they seem a bit tricky.

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Just a FYI-

I returned a set of those to MM after my alignment shop confirmed that there was no isssue with bump steer on either of the S197 in our stable.. (Roush is equipped with extreme lowering springs)

Now my old Bullitt with the SN95 chassis was a different story -

 

BTW-

Ken you win the award for best display of the FordFan Tow Hook. :)

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It says that they are recommended on stock cars and especially on lowered cars. They can only help improve handling.

 

When I get my car aligned, does anyone know if I should have positive or negative camber? Im guessing positive isn't good because then the wheel will be leaning outwards. Anyone know what the right camber is?

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It says that they are recommended on stock cars and especially on lowered cars. They can only help improve handling.

 

When I get my car aligned, does anyone know if I should have positive or negative camber? Im guessing positive isn't good because then the wheel will be leaning outwards. Anyone know what the right camber is?

 

 

Just have them set it at the "stock" Mustang camber which is just a small amount of negative camber....mine was at almost 2 degrees of negative camber before othe camber bolts and wearing the inside edge of the tires severely. Stock setting has been fine since...Handling is still fine for daily driving. I have to agree with FordFan1 that the bump steer tie rod ends are NOT needed on these cars...The camber bolts will do the trick and be a whole lot cheaper.

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It says that they are recommended on stock cars and especially on lowered cars. They can only help improve handling.

 

Marketing is a wonderfull thing-

I would let your alignment specialist explain to you why you may or may not need them..

 

When I get my car aligned, does anyone know if I should have positive or negative camber? Im guessing positive isn't good because then the wheel will be leaning outwards. Anyone know what the right camber is?

 

It all depends on what your doing with the car, I run an agressive setup but rotate my tires often, currently my SGT has only 6764 miles on it.. mostly weekend or track driven miles-

IMO- I would purchase a set of camber plates or camber bolts and have them installed so you can get the best alignment settings for your needs recommended by the front end specialist. You'll get more benefit from them then the bumpsteer kit.

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well let me ask you guys this, I already purchased the bumpsteer kit from shelby since a few guys on the other thread I started suggested them. Are they really not worth it?

I have the camber bolts ready to go for my alignment this friday at a highly recommended front end shop.

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well let me ask you guys this, I already purchased the bumpsteer kit from shelby since a few guys on the other thread I started suggested them. Are they really not worth it?

I have the camber bolts ready to go for my alignment this friday at a highly recommended front end shop.

 

 

Send the Bump Steer Tie Rod ends back and get a refund....they are NOT needed on the SGT...especially if it is a daily driver...Now if you go out and beat the hell out of your car on a track every weekend, hitting curbs and all, maybe, but not needed on a daily driver or weekend driver...Camber Bolts are ALL that is needed to correct the camber on these cars...Caster is not adjustable without the plates, but unless you've had an accident and knocked the front end back, they still are not needed...If you just have to throw some money away, I'll give you my pay pal email and you can throw some my way...I won't complain!

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Look, try the bolts first to see if it corrects your vibration issue. If it doesn't, give the bumpsteer a shot. I suggested the bumpsteer in relation to my issue which is a vibration that comes and goes depending on the road surface and suspension load. I do not believe that what is or isn't a solution for one, means the same for all.

 

If the camber bolts are installed and the camber is set to where you want and they correct your vibration issue and you choose not to go forward with the bumpsteer, I will buy the bumpsteer from you at what you paid for them.

 

Are the bumpsteer a must? No more then the camber bolts. Will they help? It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish and how sensitive your are to the feel of the road and suspension/steering feedback. Good luck, J-

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Look, try the bolts first to see if it corrects your vibration issue. If it doesn't, give the bumpsteer a shot. I suggested the bumpsteer in relation to my issue which is a vibration that comes and goes depending on the road surface and suspension load.

 

If the camber bolts are installed and the camber is set to where you want and they correct your vibration issue and you choose not to go forward with the bumpsteer, I will buy the bumpsteer from you at what you paid for them.

 

Are the bumpsteer a must? No more then the camber bolts. Will they help? It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish and how sensitive your are to the feel of the road and suspension feedback. Good luck, J-

 

 

Hey Jason, Your problem is Dallas/Fort Worth Roads! Man they have got rough down there....I thought the car was coming apart in Addison a few times, just turned out to be bad road and poor patching!

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Jason thanks for the input. I will see if the bolts resolve my issue on friday. I will be more than glad to send you the bumpsteer rods if the problem is fixed. I will send you a pm on friday letting you know how everything went.

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When I get my car aligned, does anyone know if I should have positive or negative camber? Im guessing positive isn't good because then the wheel will be leaning outwards. Anyone know what the right camber is?

 

 

I just dug up my SGT alignment sheet, front is stock with FRPP springs/shock with aftermarket camber bolts-

 

Camber Range -2.25 thru -1.25

 

Actual camber

Left Front ............. Right Front

-2.14 ...................... -2.02

 

Xcamber -.12

Xcaster .04

Total Toe .05

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Are those real good numbers? I'm not very familiar with this. I also didn't know both wheels didn't have to be the same. It wont make a difference?

 

 

For the way I drive YES, for a daily - your alignment guy will get you fixed up, if you can- hang out and ask questions.

My point is the Camber Range is -2.25 thru -1.25 and your guy will set it somewere in between based on what your concerns are.. tire wear, handling, tracking on the highway (road crown etc..) he should explain to you what settings do what.

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Are those real good numbers? I'm not very familiar with this. I also didn't know both wheels didn't have to be the same. It wont make a difference?

 

I had the camber bolts installed a couple of years ago. Mine weren't off by too much, but now I have peace of mind. I had it aligned within stock Mustang specs. I've attached the print out from the alignment shop. Not sure where the other team member got the range up to - 2.25 numbers from, but I have this shop do all my tire and alignment work and they've been great. Dave

ShelbyGTAlignment31908-1.jpg

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Not sure where the other team member got the range up to - 2.25 numbers from

 

 

EDIT: Actually I believe there are 2 different types of numbers depending on the alignment equipment used, one is measured in degress and the other is by inches. For example when I install new struts or have messed with the front end, I eyeball the camber by setting the top edge of the tire at 1" negative by holding a straight edge verticle along side the tire, its usually pretty close to -2.0 degree. I also eyeball the toe to 0 with 2 blocks of wood and a measuring tape, it's not perfect but good enough for the drive to the alignment shop.

Here is a fun "how to" do an alignment in your own gargage with simple tools-

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/suspension/alignment.html

A nice read but I would much rather leave it up to the experts to get it right

 

Here is my sheet, sand bags were installed in the drivers seat to compensate for my weight, also since I have the Griggs coilovers on the rear they took the time to corner weigh the car.

 

File0164.jpg

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In a perfect world, yes, both wheels should be the same, however, since we don't live in a perfect world, getting it as close as possible is good...I think my camber settings came out to about -0.7 on both sides when my mechanic got through putting in the camber bolts...just enough camber to keep it handling good for daily driving and not wear out the inside edge of the tires too fast...I'm extremely happy with mine, and I'm running the GT500 wheels and Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar KR tires...they are very expensive and I don't want to wear them down in 10-15k miles...

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