dingo2008 Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 What billet lower control arms should I get or what ones do you have? Looking for better traction and no wheel hop and billet aluminum lower control arms, thought about getting either steeda, BMR or J&M or what other brands do you suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clark17357 Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Metco. High quality and American made. You will pay a nickel more but you will be keeping a job in America. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCD Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 I vote J&M!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingo2008 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Can I get J&M billet ones in anodized blue like my vista blue! that would be sweet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedj Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 I have Roush billet lower control arms and their wheel hop kit (upper control arm). They work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrzyHorse Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 BMR with the relocation brackets.,..you dont even need billet u can get the tubulars and they work just as well if not better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiaCobra Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Which ones don't use a relocation bracket ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breoland Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Which ones don't use a relocation bracket ? You dont need to install the relocation bracket but it helps centering the rear and helps with launching the car for better straight line traction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingo2008 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Will the bmr lower control arm brackets work with most brands of billet control arms? I see metco says you must use their control arms with relocation brackets. I'd like billet cause looks better, I do more street driving so not sure if I should get poly ones so it's not as hard on the car. I won't be doing any road racing just some drag racing, guess that would be hard on the poly ones also, but it wouldn't be very often just every stop light ha ha or on the track a couple times a year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmustang Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 I bought the J&M steel ones as recommended by this site, The billet ones cost more and look cool but the steelies do the work just as good. They no longer come with the grease zerks as they are not needed with the sticky as S**t grease that is supplied. I spoke wit with the co. and they said folks were blowing out the bushings by using the wrong grease and this is permanent stuff. They went on a breeze (used a ratchet strap to pull the axle forward when it moved a touch when the stock ones were removed and eliminated the horrid axle tramp I was experiencing. 139 bucks if I remember the price correctly. Against nearly 300 for some of the billet ones. Spent the extra money on a K&N CAI and some other bits. peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingo2008 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 I should just make my own at work since I setup and run cnc's and program, plus we have 6061 t6 aluminum, but i'd rather buy and just put them in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin00Stang Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Billet arms are mostly just for looks, they often cost more $$ and weigh more than a welded steel arm. I run the J&M's in our Mustangs: http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=400&parent=110 If you do relocation brackets make sure you weld them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiaCobra Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Billet arms are mostly just for looks, they often cost more $$ and weigh more than a welded steel arm. I run the J&M's in our Mustangs: http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=400&parent=110 If you do relocation brackets make sure you weld them in. Justin, If I decide to use your LCA's, do I need to use a relocation bracket? I'd rather not weld anything on my "street only" KR. For rear wheel hop, all I would need are a new set of LCA's? I wouldn't have to bother with a set of UCA's ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXMustang Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Justin, If I decide to use your LCA's, do I need to use a relocation bracket? I'd rather not weld anything on my "street only" KR. For rear wheel hop, all I would need are a new set of LCA's? I wouldn't have to bother with a set of UCA's ? Nope, the wheel hop will still be there. I started with just the LCAs and I still had wheel hop with all else stock. The UCA was the fix. Thats what made the difference. Now its just glorious wheel spin when she breaks loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.