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What billet lower control arms should I get?


dingo2008
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Will the bmr lower control arm brackets work with most brands of billet control arms? I see metco says you must use their control arms with relocation brackets. I'd like billet cause looks better, I do more street driving so not sure if I should get poly ones so it's not as hard on the car. I won't be doing any road racing just some drag racing, guess that would be hard on the poly ones also, but it wouldn't be very often just every stop light ha ha or on the track a couple times a year

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I bought the J&M steel ones as recommended by this site, The billet ones cost more and look cool but the steelies do the work just as good. They no longer come with the grease zerks as they are not needed with the sticky as S**t grease that is supplied. I spoke wit with the co. and they said folks were blowing out the bushings by using the wrong grease and this is permanent stuff. They went on a breeze (used a ratchet strap to pull the axle forward when it moved a touch when the stock ones were removed and eliminated the horrid axle tramp I was experiencing. 139 bucks if I remember the price correctly. Against nearly 300 for some of the billet ones. Spent the extra money on a K&N CAI and some other bits.

 

peter

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Billet arms are mostly just for looks, they often cost more $$ and weigh more than a welded steel arm. I run the J&M's in our Mustangs:

http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=400&parent=110

 

If you do relocation brackets make sure you weld them in.

 

 

 

Justin,

 

If I decide to use your LCA's, do I need to use a relocation bracket? I'd rather not weld anything on my "street only" KR.

For rear wheel hop, all I would need are a new set of LCA's? I wouldn't have to bother with a set of UCA's ?

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Justin,

 

If I decide to use your LCA's, do I need to use a relocation bracket? I'd rather not weld anything on my "street only" KR.

For rear wheel hop, all I would need are a new set of LCA's? I wouldn't have to bother with a set of UCA's ?

 

Nope, the wheel hop will still be there. I started with just the LCAs and I still had wheel hop with all else stock. The UCA was the fix. Thats what made the difference. Now its just glorious wheel spin when she breaks loose.

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