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Upgrading Brakes Next Project Insight Requested


ctozzi
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Now that I have all this power to go sideways fast, I need some guidance on how to get this sled to stop alot faster. Before everyone tells me what to do here are my Goals:

 

1. Not to swap out the entire brake system and in turn drop $ 4k to do so.

2. Stay within a budget of 1K for both front and rear.

3. Keep the stock brembo's in front and just increase my braking power. Possibly add another matching set of Brembo's out back with better pads and rotors ???

 

That's it:

I'm not going to be doing motor-cross laps with this car, nor will I be beating the Hell out of it at the Las Vegas 1/4 mile , I'm simply looking to keep it looking stock and stop better.

Thanks In Advance for you assistance, any part numbers of what you guys recommend would be appreciated.

Chris

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All you really need to stop better is to shed some pounds and swap out the brake pads, brake lines, and fluid. The biggest gains will be seen with better pads, and loosing the weight. The brake lines, and fluid will only really help with brake feel, fade, and longevity. Since you do not plan to work heavy on a track regularly then you can get away with skipping these.

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Not exactly sure what is available for the GT500 crowd, but a set of Cooling Ducts is also a great addition to getting the most out of your front brakes...

 

From my perspective, here is what my upgrades did for my SGT:

 

SS Brake Lines = Removes the "mushy" feel when you stand hard on the brakes.

 

Hi-Temp Fluid = Prevents the fluid down by the calipers from "boiling over" and losing its ability to hold the desired hydraulic pressure.

 

Better Pads = Helps eliminate the "fade" that most OEM pads are known for after repeated heavy use.

 

Cooling Ducts = The cooler the better!!!

 

Performance Rotors = Most Slotted/Cross-Drilled rotors are more for "looks" than anything... However, if you aren't going to track your car, then you won't have to worry about them eventually cracking...

 

Good Luck!

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

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I posted this on the other forum, but thought it might be helpful to you.

 

So this is what I did for the Focus as a test for the Shelby. I'm very happy with how it turned out, but the rotors aren't worthy of the Shelby.

 

Rotors - I got them from brakeperformance.com and they have held up well for the first thousand miles or so. The only thing I don't like about them is that they are drilled through the vanes in some spots, but as a daily driver, I'm not really worried. Besides, they were cheap, so if they go south, I'll upgrade.

 

Hawk Ceramic Pads - The pads have been great, very clean, very quiet and stop very well. They may be slightly better than the Autozone ceramics I have on the Shelby, but it's hard to tell with the vehicles being so different. I would have stuck with the Autozone pads for the Focus, but they didn't make them for the fronts.

 

Stainless Lines - I'm very surprised at the difference in brake feel... I thought this was going to be one of those things everyone just said because they wanted to make themselves feel better about wasting their money . I love them, and it will be an upgrade on the Shelby when I do the rotors.

 

G2 Caliper Paint - Awesome product. Easy to work with and covers great, just be patient and take your time. Makes the brakes look a million times better and I will be painting the rears on the Shelby with it.

 

Hope this helps some of you guys...

 

FR_brake.jpgProject.jpgFR_brake_before.jpgFR.jpg

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I'd go with #1 and get rid of the not..,If you can buy a fancy headrest, ,,,come on,, what is your life worth.. especially with that new found power...Research all of it.. Go with what could save your life, if by chance of course, you were speeding and had to , had to ,, STOP!!!

 

 

geez pete beat me up why don't ya

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Now that I have all this power to go sideways fast, I need some guidance on how to get this sled to stop alot faster. Before everyone tells me what to do here are my Goals:

 

1. Not to swap out the entire brake system and in turn drop $ 4k to do so.

2. Stay within a budget of 1K for both front and rear.

3. Keep the stock brembo's in front and just increase my braking power. Possibly add another matching set of Brembo's out back with better pads and rotors ???

 

That's it:

I'm not going to be doing motor-cross laps with this car, nor will I be beating the Hell out of it at the Las Vegas 1/4 mile , I'm simply looking to keep it looking stock and stop better.

Thanks In Advance for you assistance, any part numbers of what you guys recommend would be appreciated.

Chris

 

Step on the middle pedal harder and engage the ABS. Seriously, the only real shortcoming of the stock system is the fact that the brakes get hot on a road course with repeated usage, in which case air ducting is the first thing one should do, but you're not going to be doing any hotlapping so fade isn't an issue. Different pads are going to have different initial bite characteristics, but that doesn't necessarily correspond to better braking. If what you are seeking is a shorter panic stop stopping distance, stickier tires are the answer since, ultimately, as soon as ABS kicks in it is the tires that determine your stopping regardless of what pads, rotors, fluid, or brakelines you have. Slots, holes, etc. are mostly cosmetic. Likewise big rear rotors. Ever seen the rear rotors of a Grand Am Mustang? They're itty bitty because the vast majority of braking force is supplied by the front. Lowering rotating mass with lightweight wheels also has a significant effect.

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keep your stock rotors their the best . new about 125 ea front and 87ea rear i guess ta mating

hawk hps pads front and rear they work great for the street. low dust , no squeek, easy on the rotors 200 for front and rear

stainless brake lines. they make a world of a difference when you stand on the brakes. they were 100 or 200?

i track my car and i've warped rotors, cracked rotors and have people tell me how they glowed red when i was stopping on the back straight at watkins glen.

i use the hps to and from the track on the stock rotors and when i get to the track i put on hawk dtc70 front and dtc60 in back again with the stock rotors and they will pull down the speed like you won't believe but on the street the dtc pads will squeek and wear your rotors out. plus they won;t stop as good because their not hot 700 to 1000 F.

so you can have great brakes for 400 dollars and if your rotors are bad you can get new ford for about 450 dollars for a total of $ 950 . doing all the labor your self.

oh yea brake fluid motorcraft dot 3 is rated to 500 degrees F dry it did a great job for me for years 4 bucks for .5 liter get 4, 1 per corner its cheap and easy. do you understand dry and wet about brake fluid. dry is fresh fluid that hasn't had a chance to absorb moisture and wet is fluid thats been in the car for over a year. that reduces your boiling point to about 283F or something like that.

change your fluid every year for great performance. i change mine everyother event i run. to make the bleeding a one person job speedbleeder.com. you'll need 6 four for the front and 2 for the rear.

keep the back caliper it will stop it just fine i've seen race cars with the stock rear caliper. i still use mine and dog gone that thing will stop. i've done 140mph on the front straight of vir and made the first turn with no problem braking at the first marker.

it ain't fancy but it will work and without rotors less then 600 with rotors 1000 to 1100 thats your budget.

marshall

2007 shelby gt 500

box stock motor with brake cooling kit and hood pins

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  • 3 weeks later...

keep your stock rotors their the best . new about 125 ea front and 87ea rear i guess ta mating

hawk hps pads front and rear they work great for the street. low dust , no squeek, easy on the rotors 200 for front and rear

stainless brake lines. they make a world of a difference when you stand on the brakes. they were 100 or 200?

i track my car and i've warped rotors, cracked rotors and have people tell me how they glowed red when i was stopping on the back straight at watkins glen.

i use the hps to and from the track on the stock rotors and when i get to the track i put on hawk dtc70 front and dtc60 in back again with the stock rotors and they will pull down the speed like you won't believe but on the street the dtc pads will squeek and wear your rotors out. plus they won;t stop as good because their not hot 700 to 1000 F.

so you can have great brakes for 400 dollars and if your rotors are bad you can get new ford for about 450 dollars for a total of $ 950 . doing all the labor your self.

oh yea brake fluid motorcraft dot 3 is rated to 500 degrees F dry it did a great job for me for years 4 bucks for .5 liter get 4, 1 per corner its cheap and easy. do you understand dry and wet about brake fluid. dry is fresh fluid that hasn't had a chance to absorb moisture and wet is fluid thats been in the car for over a year. that reduces your boiling point to about 283F or something like that.

change your fluid every year for great performance. i change mine everyother event i run. to make the bleeding a one person job speedbleeder.com. you'll need 6 four for the front and 2 for the rear.

keep the back caliper it will stop it just fine i've seen race cars with the stock rear caliper. i still use mine and dog gone that thing will stop. i've done 140mph on the front straight of vir and made the first turn with no problem braking at the first marker.

it ain't fancy but it will work and without rotors less then 600 with rotors 1000 to 1100 thats your budget.

marshall

2007 shelby gt 500

box stock motor with brake cooling kit and hood pins

 

 

Do you remember what size bleeders you bought from Speed Bleeder?

 

 

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