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2011 SVTPP Stereo Upgade


randymarble

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Finally took the plunge and installed the JL Audio Stealth Box in my 2011 GT500 SVTPP.

As you may know, the SVTPP option negates the ability to order the Shaker 1000 system with the sub firmly planted over the right rear wheel. To the best of my knowledge, the Shaker sub weighs in at around 80lbs according to the souces that I've read. The JL Stealthbox, while hefty is a good 40 - 50 lbs lighter than that.

 

Anyway, the goal was to install it without any cutting / drilling or non-reversable installation.

 

Goal accomplished: http://marblesmotors.com/GT5002011Stereo.htm

 

The carpet in the trunk was simply folded over and tucked underneath and the right most trunk interior panel was removed and the stealthbox slid into place. It bolts up from the bottom of the car through an existing hole so no drama there.

The wiring for the amp and power was run down the drivers side sill panel. The signal for the cross over was taken from the amp that sits behind the drivers kick panel. Believe it or not, that amp only runs the RH side 8" woofer in the passenger door.........go figure.

Power from the battery was run through an existing grommet in the firewall just to the outside of the power brake booster.

 

Once tuned........................it really thumps. I'll eventually put down a sound deadener mat in the trunk once everything is checked out and tested well.

 

I Recommend this upgrade !!!!!!

 

Randy

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No, just stock speakers in the front at this point. Dealer said I wouldn't gain very much that way.

 

I have to disagree...I put in some Kicker680's and they offered much better sound. It was quite noticeable. Now, I don't have a sub in the trunk so I don't know if that might drown out the sound improvement.

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I have to disagree...I put in some Kicker680's and they offered much better sound. It was quite noticeable. Now, I don't have a sub in the trunk so I don't know if that might drown out the sound improvement.

 

 

Have to agree with Star...the front 6x8 speakers are junk. They are plastic, have almost no driver magnet, and can be found on e-bay for $4 each. I put in a set of Infinity 6x8 components with remote tweeters and it makes all the difference in the world. My sub for now is a 10" bazooka tube in the trunk...until I can afford the JL Stealthbox. Spend another $100 and get some good stuff up front. :dance:

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So there are no issues with using the stock AMP and aftermarket speakers? I would think that the RMS power provided by the Shaker 500 would barely power a good aftermarket speaker considering it's split 6 ways.

 

Another member here said the stock RMS for the 6x8's is 7W per channel via the Shaker 500 unit. The two 8" door subs are powered by a separate amp putting out 40W RMS per channel. Just don't go over the top with replacement 6x8's - meaning...just about any quality aftermarket speaker will sound better - you don't need to replace them with something that requires a tremendous amount of power. What you're going to gain by doing this mostly is a broader frequency reproduction...most notably, the high frequencies.

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So there are no issues with using the stock AMP and aftermarket speakers? I would think that the RMS power provided by the Shaker 500 would barely power a good aftermarket speaker considering it's split 6 ways.

 

 

I upgraded the "Mach 460" front 6X9 speakers in my Saleen with some nice aftermarket Panasonics and it ended up shorting out the amp occasionals, and at some point my right rear speaker just went dead.

 

Don't know if the shaker amp is any better but I'd put money on it being pretty much the same type of hardware.

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Another member here said the stock RMS for the 6x8's is 7W per channel via the Shaker 500 unit. The two 8" door subs are powered by a separate amp putting out 40W RMS per channel. Just don't go over the top with replacement 6x8's - meaning...just about any quality aftermarket speaker will sound better - you don't need to replace them with something that requires a tremendous amount of power. What you're going to gain by doing this mostly is a broader frequency reproduction...most notably, the high frequencies.

 

 

Most aftermarket speakers are much more efficient than the factory speakers--hence they require less power to operate at a given volume.

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  • 10 months later...

Did the upgrade too!

 

Installed today and it all went in easy. Ran speaker wire from the driver's kick panel mounted door woofer amp- tapped those for the inputs. Ran 4 gauge wire from battery back to amp. Grounded amp 4 gauge to the body. While I was in there, upgraded the rear speakers to Polk MM571's like I did to the doors.

 

The JL 250/1 is more then enough for me! I have the gain almost all the way down and it still shakes the whole car.

 

Can't wait to go for a drive!

 

DSC_0503.jpg

 

DSC_0499.jpg

 

DSC_0498.jpg

 

DSC_0501.jpg

 

Wire taps on the door woofer amp wires for the JL amp.

DSC_0495.jpg

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The JL 250/1 is more then enough for me! I have the gain almost all the way down and it still shakes the whole car.

 

So does the Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub...so much that I couldn't stand it and took it out!

 

Perhaps you could shed some light on my problem? Would there be a way to install a "gain" control in between the Shelby/Kicker Amp and the Shelby/kicker trunk sub? As it is now - all I can do is control it by turning down the bass on the head unit..and that kills the sound on the 6x8's. If I could control the trunk sub independently - it would work for me.

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Does the shelby/kicker have a gain and crossover control on it? I think maybe having a separate amp gives you more adjustability.

 

Not that I can see...I was thinking that you could somehow splice a control in between the amp and sub. Guess I am just stuck with it more than likely. I might email the people at kicker and see if there's anything I can do to reduce the output. Thanks Zimm17.

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Not that I can see...I was thinking that you could somehow splice a control in between the amp and sub. Guess I am just stuck with it more than likely. I might email the people at kicker and see if there's anything I can do to reduce the output. Thanks Zimm17.

 

 

 

Blue,Zimm,Ezereth, Vaport, et al

Thank you for posting all this info. The stock system sounds like crap with the SVTPP, and you guys have provided a solution!

Thanks!

HAWKBARR

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Ahh! That's what I need! LOL! Oh well.

 

 

h136RBC1-f.jpeg

 

I thought it would be cool to put the knob where the parking brake handle is- out of the way, but easy to get to. Too bad when I blew the dust off my old amp, it didn't have a jack to use the remote knob! I'm not about to buy a new amp- but someone starting new could.

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I thought it would be cool to put the knob where the parking brake handle is- out of the way, but easy to get to. Too bad when I blew the dust off my old amp, it didn't have a jack to use the remote knob! I'm not about to buy a new amp- but someone starting new could.

 

That would be nice.

 

My other option is to somehow "wake up" the door subs that the car already has...have you heard of anyone getting some aftermarket ones and hooking up a better amp to them? That would be my ultimate solution and would be what I would ideally like to have. I really don't need earthshaking bass..just something to fill out the soundstage a bit more and give some kick to the system. I find it strange that the shelby/kicker amp doesn't drive the door subs as well.

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Here is the stereo in my trunk:

 

http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=11&u=16684388

 

I am using a JL Cleansweep to process the signal from the stock head unit. A capacitor and my memphis 1000D amp to drive my Diamond sub, then a JL 4 channel amp to drive my fronts (JL 6X8 coax) and rear shelfs (same). Since the front doors mount high, and the speakers are the same as components, I figured they would do just fine. Plus, I did not want to cut any holes for tweeters.

 

I kept the door 8"s in stock, run off the back of the deck. Hardly any sound comes out. I was thinking of replacing them with Kenwood or Kicker shallow mounts, but even if driven with another amp, how much sound are you really gonna get out of a non-sealed enclosure? I would like to hear some in person. The doors have plastic in them, not "really" enclosed. Would be very difficult to build an enclosure. I could definitely use some more mid bass up front though, although, that 1000 watt diamond sub sure likes to drown everything else out lol. The C5's in the front are seriously LOUD and CLEAR.

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