"Secret" Tune in GT500 PCMs

[jbmerrillz]

I recently purchased a new 2009 GT500KR and in trying to gain some knowledge of the beast I ran across a Ford publication called: "Ford 2009 Inspection Manual." It has a subtitle: "Pre-Delivery and Vehicle Storage Guidlines Car, Truck." The back indicates "Technical Support Operations, Ford Customer Service Division August 2008" There is a bar code with what might be a publication number (I do not for certain if it is a pub #) and that is: FCS-12105-09

 

Anyway it has some good info on lifting points and all kinds of stuff. The procedure of interest for this topic is on page 100-06A-35 (or page 35, in other words) and it is procedure "J10 Reset PCM Calibration -- Shelby GT500" and I will try to reproduce it below.

 

****************************************************************

 

J10 Reset PCM Calibration -- Shelby GT500

 

The Shelby GT500 is released from the factory with

an alternate PCM calibration that limits engine

performance. The PCM calibration must be reset

prior to vehicle delivery.

 

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2. Wait at least 10 seconds, then reconnect the

battery cable.

3. Tighten the cable to 5Nm (44 lb-in)

4. Turn the ignition key ON then OFF WITHOUT

STARTING THE ENGINE. (THIS IS NECESSARY TO

PREVENT A HIGH IDLE CONDITION AND SETTING

DTC P0507. THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR

LAMP (MIL) WILL NOT BE ILLUMINATED FOR THIS CODE.)

 

****************************************************************

 

That's it. Mine hadn't been done and the dealer didn't know what I was talking about. Boy oh boy what a difference it made. Like a whole different car. Before, I almost never saw any boost unless I was really romping it and now I see a little boost even in daily driving. Before the boost was either 0 or 5 and now its ranges as you would expect up to a max of about 9 or atleast that is as much as I've seen so far. I know I have a faster throttle response now and a more open throttle plate at full pedal too -- obviously so. The improved curve on the drive by wire for the throttle makes the clutch seem a whole lot less sensitive. I know how that sounds and it was a real surprise but that is truly how it "FEELS." I used to really miss the friendly clutch on my 07 GT/CS but now the GT500KR is only slightly more sensitive -- nothing like it was with the reduced performance calibration. I can't recommend that anyone try this unless a Ford Certified mechanic is present to perform the procedure and explain all possible safety considerations and maintenance issues but I do think it is important to let people know that this feature exists, at least in the 2009 GT500s and perhaps other years too and the KRs are included. Then you can seek the help of your mechanic and decide if it is right for your car. I hope it gives those that might choose to try it all the joy it gave me. Good Luck

 

Oh yeah, I did not see the P0507 trouble code or any others ever and it did reset a lot of stuff on the dash computer info center and all the onboard emmisions diagnostics (my scanner calls them Emmisions Readiness Monitors) were cleared out and restarted. I used a AutoXray 2500 to check the PCM through OBD-II port before and after the procedure.

[FiaCobra]

How many miles on your car? This may be another procedure to "unlock" the supercharger boost. I had to drive mine approx 50 miles, or 5 miles uninterrupted to get full boost.

 

EDIT to add: The above procedure was done to my '08 GT-500. I didn't have to do anything to my '09 KR. It came out of the box with boost.

[jbmerrillz]

How many miles on your car? This may be another procedure to "unlock" the supercharger boost. I had to drive mine approx 50 miles, or 5 miles uninterrupted to get full boost.

 

I have about 600 miles on the car now and it has been driven in city and highway and the occasional lonely mountain road romp where visibility allows it to be done safely. Prior to reseting the PCM, all of the onboard diagnostics had done their learning and all monitors were OK. Since the reset, at my last check with only two drive cycles with no cooldowns, I only had two monitors that needed more drive cycles. Evap recovery was one of them and the other made sense too. I'm sure after today they will all be happy again.

[Stidog]

Kinda ironic, a retired ford guy and I were talking about this very subject last saturday. The reason they limit the boost for the early miles is so that the people handling, transporting, etc... can't get out and dump the clutch and run down the road at full boost. I never knew that existed until my buddy told me about it. He also drives an 07 or 08 GT500... and had to drive his car the 5 miles to get the computer to reset with the real program.

[jbmerrillz]

Kinda ironic, a retired ford guy and I were talking about this very subject last saturday. The reason they limit the boost for the early miles is so that the people handling, transporting, etc... can't get out and dump the clutch and run down the road at full boost. I never knew that existed until my buddy told me about it. He also drives an 07 or 08 GT500... and had to drive his car the 5 miles to get the computer to reset with the real program.

 

 

Guys, mine had almost 600 miles when we did this procedure. It had a hundred when I bought it so one of those test drives before me would have completed the learning process or completed the 5 mile reset. This improvements we saw were so impressive even the passengers could tell a difference. My son said I should mention that and that the boost sounds like an angry vacuum cleaner now -- his words again. I really think that since it's so easy it is truly worth investigating. Ford's own words say, "...must be reset..." That indicates to me that it won't auto reset itself -- at least on the 2009 models. I also have an SCT/X3 tuner from evolution with two of their custom tunes. I plan to keep my KR bone stock so it seemed a good choice. I asked for a full race high octane tune For drag radial assisted weekends at the track and a 91 octane tune (matches local premium here at about a mile above sea level). Had I found this hidden tune first, I probably wouldn't have bought the tuner. I will install the hotter tune at about 1000 miles to see what happens. Evolution said 7000 rpm is the new and max recomended rev limit and safe for the engine. That'll be interesting. Shifting at 6500 with no worries about any cutouts -- wanna try that one at least once. I will share what I find out.

 

Please, if anyone else tries this procedure, let us know what happens. Thanks!

[07-2937]

Hmm that's weird KR's got a new performance tune that would negate the need to reset anything from the factory. I know that new 500's came with limited boost tunes to prevent "joyriding" but the KR left with its own fully usable engine tune as well as a KR specific abs tune..

[Stidog]

7000 rpm sounds high, i thought the rods wouldnt last much beyond 6400.... and I think I read it on here somewhere.

[GOTSVT?]

Seriously

[jbmerrillz]

7000 rpm sounds high, i thought the rods wouldnt last much beyond 6400.... and I think I read it on here somewhere.

 

well, the pros at evolution tend to disagree with you. And c'mon if I shift at 6500 instead of a hair below the stock 6250 rev limit do you really think a 300 milliseconds climb to 250 rpm extra is going to eat the rods. Let's get real... To me that seems akin to fearing to get your boat wet because you know it'll last longer if you keep it dry. I'm also at 6000 ft above sea level here so the engine does not make full power by a long ways. The stresses go down up here too, sure not nearly as much as power but so many other factors matter so much more. The big issue is I have a choice now (I choose not the PCM) to shift at the same place as before or higher or even lower. I also believe that I'll likely never have to feel the rev limit kill the engine ever again and I can still taste the 540@6250 rated peak HP. I like their 7000 limit a lot. I put about 100 miles a month on it most driving very reasonably and economically, I think the engine will last longer than I do and if not the second one will. And I'll be smiling all the way. I bought it for fun.

[jbmerrillz]

Hmm that's weird KR's got a new performance tune that would negate the need to reset anything from the factory. I know that new 500's came with limited boost tunes to prevent "joyriding" but the KR left with its own fully usable engine tune as well as a KR specific abs tune..

 

All I can say it's what we experienced doesn't match your theory. I tried to be as accurate and complete as possible when I relayed my experience. If you don't believe me then don't try it and ignore this topic but don't say my story is wierd when I have been very careful to relayed it absolutely accurately. The perfomance gains were immediate and beyond obvious. They were unmistakeable and the boost increase, in both amount and the response curve, was and is quantifiable and I included the numbers! And I would hope the Shelby procal tune is in the EPROM and not in volatile memory. I'll bet the Shelby tune gets burned into EPROM when and where the computer is manufactured and nowhere near any of the rest of the car. Then they likely put a dummed down tune in volatile memory as the car comes together. That way you can replace you battery and not lose the intended calibration.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

7000 rpm sounds high, i thought the rods wouldnt last much beyond 6400.... and I think I read it on here somewhere.

 

 

If this engine (the 5.4L modular) can't take 8 grand, there's something wrong with it.

 

What are the rods made of, butter? Are they forged, cast or sintered (seriously)?

 

I've taken 'basically' stock 396ci and 454ci Big Block Chevy's to 7800rpm all day long and everyone says you can't do THAT either.

 

If I could, my rev limiter would be set at 7,000rpm on my 2010 GT500 and I'd be shifting her at about 6800rpm.

 

6250 is CRAZY LOW for a engine this small (what is it, 331 or 333 ci?). We have 4 valves per cylinder with twin overhead cams operating them. They're barely starting to breathe at 6250rpm and there's certainly more HP left if you took it up to 7K.

 

 

Phill

[frydguy79]

7100-7200 is the breaking point on the stock 5.4 gt 500 motor,

take a look at your dyno sheets, most all of the ones i have seen are making max horse power around 58-6200 rpms and only the big whipple or kb engines or the twin turbo'd ones make more power above the 6400 rpm range

i was shifting at 66-6700 rpm and and when i started shifting around 6100 i lowered my et's

[Tob]

 

 

What are the rods made of, butter? Are they forged, cast or sintered (seriously)?

 

 

 

 

Phill, you've asked this before. Maybe you never saw my response.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/52861-gt500-connecting-rods/page__p__895404__hl__powder%20metal%20cracked%20connecting%20rod__fromsearch__1entry895404

 

As to the rpm ceiling...I wouldn't push the limit without upgraded internals. But hey, to each his own!

 

Tob

[BIKEBOY]

Ford got this procedural idea from Chrysler, as it relates to the Dodge Viper.

 

Before Dodge introduced this process, as well, over 40% of Brand New Viper owners crashed their car on the first drives, after taking ownership!!! 40%!

 

People were taking the cars home after being used to driving their 2 or 300 horse car, and thought they were Bob Bondurant , or Carroll Shelby! When I s/o'd my car, and picked the dealer I wanted it shipped to, I used an old technician turned salesguy friend of mine so that I would get all of the inside poop! Also, he promised NO P.D.I. The plastic was left on everything for me to remove-or not. But, back to topic......he performed the pcm re-tune for me while I was standing there upon delivery!

[07-2937]

All I can say it's what we experienced doesn't match your theory. I tried to be as accurate and complete as possible when I relayed my experience. If you don't believe me then don't try it and ignore this topic but don't say my story is wierd when I have been very careful to relayed it absolutely accurately. The perfomance gains were immediate and beyond obvious. They were unmistakeable and the boost increase, in both amount and the response curve, was and is quantifiable and I included the numbers! And I would hope the Shelby procal tune is in the EPROM and not in volatile memory. I'll bet the Shelby tune gets burned into EPROM when and where the computer is manufactured and nowhere near any of the rest of the car. Then they likely put a dummed down tune in volatile memory as the car comes together. That way you can replace you battery and not lose the intended calibration.

what do i know i was just managed the entire KR line@ SAI... There was never a discussion of a hidden tune.. maybe your car was stuck in the low boost mode for break in and it got reset. maybe if others experience this and get some dyno numbers you have found something secret I still think its weird lol not you, but the occurrence...

[sprint200]

jbmerrillz,

 

You have not discovered anything "new". Most of us who took delivery of Job 1 '07 GT500's were well aware of Ford's PDI procedures including the "J10 reset". Did you bother to do a "search" on this site for this information? I can guarantee you that there are dozens of threads that include some mention of this, and it has nothing to do with "secretly" unlocking some tune that unleashes vast quantities of extra horsepower!

 

The "valet" tune in the cars (for shipment) merely keeps the by-pass valve on the supercharger open for a given number of recordable functions (ie: consective miles, 5, or number of starts, 50). After that, the only thing relevant to the J10 reset is the adaptive learning built into the software.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble, but your SOTP gauge needs recalibration...................

 

 

 

edit: spelling errors

[thewheelman]

No, no, no, I think this is true. My cousin's uncle's brother's nephew's best friend works at Ford in Deeetroit and he said that if I would simultaniously stand on my left door sill, switch the key on and off 18 times while the wipers were going my car would go into "pursuit" mode and the handbrake release button then activates the "turbo boost". I'm going to try to jump a moving train with it this afternoon.....wish me luck!

[BIKEBOY]

No, no, no, I think this is true. My cousin's uncle's brother's nephew's best friend works at Ford in Deeetroit and he said that if I would simultaniously stand on my left door sill, switch the key on and off 18 times while the wipers were going my car would go into "pursuit" mode and the handbrake release button then activates the "turbo boost". I'm going to try to jump a moving train with it this afternoon.....wish me luck!

 

Hahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!

Wheelman....you're killing me!!

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Phill, you've asked this before. Maybe you never saw my response.

 

 

ThanksTob. No, I hadn't seen your response.

 

From the sound of it, "Powder forged" sounds like they're talking about "sintered".

 

That's where they take iron powder and forge it (smack two dies together with the media in between) but at the same time using high heat to melt the powderd metal while they are "forging" it.

 

It is not *nearly* as strong as a true forged rod (where a solid blank of iron is beat (forged) between two dies). Harley-Davidson started using sintered parts in their latest engines and it's J-U-N-K.

 

I'll read the link you provided as well and see if it's the same process.

 

 

Thanks again,

Phill

[chuckstang]

LMAO at the comments of the motor should be able to rev well past 7000rpm.

 

6500rpm is as high as you go. Almost all of the failed motors were because people pushed their luck and went past 6250

 

 

And as far as the original thread topic about the tune, nothing new there, the blower was not active before.

 

I feel like I went back in time about 4 years reading this thread!

[2010KonaBlueGT]

LMAO at the comments of the motor should be able to rev well past 7000rpm.

 

 

Yeah, and all those "fools" out there that have their aftermarket tuner rev limits set beyond 7 grand, and are blowing up their motors left and right.........oh, wait, that isn't happening. Hmm. You must know something they don't.

 

Wait a second, Chuck. Are you the guy in another thread we had that is "so familiar with racing" (and I'm not)???

 

Or do I have you confused with someone else?

 

Chuck, I've built more hi-po motors than I can count on both hands OR remember. How about you?

 

I've never had a *rod* failure on any engine I've ever built. How about you?

 

Now having said that, *I* will be the first to admit that I have never built a Ford modular motor so I can't argue (hard) that it won't toss a rod at 8 grand, but I'll bet you money that a 5.4L "should be able to rev well past 7000rpm".

 

It's already been proven by people right here on this forum. Is it smart to take a engine past it's peak HP rpm? That depends...it depends on where your rpm is when you upshift, not because of the chance of parts failure. You *dropping* HP at that point and the idea is to rev it up to the point that when you upshift, you are *in* the power band (that is the area between your peak TORQUE rpm and your peak HORSEPOWER rpm).

 

Hey Chuck, how about this...you tell me...how many rod failures have you seen on a 5.4L? ANY 5.4L? (seriously)?

 

 

Phill

[Secondo]

The stress on an internal combustion engine's rods increases exponentially as the rpms increase. The 5.4's stroke length is 4.1 inches which is big-block territory. It's rod strength has been debated here since the GT500 was released 4 years ago. I believe an SVT engineer told us that the max safe rpms of the rods were 6250. If the rods were stronger, could it rev more? I believe much more. The rods are our engine's weakest link. They're not too shabby though, considering I believe they could handle about 650 real world WHP keeping the rev's down and Evolution pumped theirs to over 800HP. I don't rev mine more than 6500 because it's not needed. My dyno graph reported the power leveling off at 6000.

 

In any case, regarding the secret tune, I had a tuner come up to me at a car cruise when I had about 2500 miles on the car tell me that the stock tune limits boost until 3500 miles. I didn't believe him but it didn't matter at all to me since then I got the Evolution Stage 2 tune so I didn't get a chance to test his claim.

[Son of GT]

Yeah, and all those "fools" out there that have their aftermarket tuner rev limits set beyond 7 grand, and are blowing up their motors left and right.........oh, wait, that isn't happening. Hmm. You must know something they don't.

 

Wait a second, Chuck. Are you the guy in another thread we had that is "so familiar with racing" (and I'm not)???

 

Or do I have you confused with someone else?

 

Chuck, I've built more hi-po motors than I can count on both hands OR remember. How about you?

 

I've never had a *rod* failure on any engine I've ever built. How about you?

 

Now having said that, *I* will be the first to admit that I have never built a Ford modular motor so I can't argue (hard) that it won't toss a rod at 8 grand, but I'll bet you money that a 5.4L "should be able to rev well past 7000rpm".

 

It's already been proven by people right here on this forum. Is it smart to take a engine past it's peak HP rpm? That depends...it depends on where your rpm is when you upshift, not because of the chance of parts failure. You *dropping* HP at that point and the idea is to rev it up to the point that when you upshift, you are *in* the power band (that is the area between your peak TORQUE rpm and your peak HORSEPOWER rpm).

 

Hey Chuck, how about this...you tell me...how many rod failures have you seen on a 5.4L? ANY 5.4L? (seriously)?

 

 

Phill

 

 

Phill, I have a question that has nothing to do with this forum and your posts per se, and I swear to god my question is not based in ANY criticism what-so-ever, just pure curosity, but what are you conveying when you surround many of your statements/words/comments with asterisks? I've read several of your posts in several different forums over the last year or so, and noticed that you do that, and I just wanted to know what it meant. It might be obvious to others here, but I can't figure it out. Are you using asterisks in lieu of italics?

 

Thanks!

[BIKEBOY]

I've wondered that too Phill? As well....no criticism...just utter curiosity.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Phill, I have a question that has nothing to do with this forum and your posts per se, and I swear to god my question is not based in ANY criticism what-so-ever, just pure curosity, but what are you conveying when you surround many of your statements/words/comments with asterisks? I've read several of your posts in several different forums over the last year or so, and noticed that you do that, and I just wanted to know what it meant. It might be obvious to others here, but I can't figure it out. Are you using asterisks in lieu of italics?

 

Thanks!

 

Hey, NO problem! If you don't ask, you won't ever know.

 

What that is, is me showing my age...or more appropriately, how long I've been involved with discussions forums and the Internet (a long time!).

 

Way back when, "back in the day", back "in the beginning" we didn't have HTML based discussion forums. They were all strictly text based. So if you wanted to interject tone & inflection into a sentence and/or put emphisis on a word you had to either use *astericks* or _understrikes_.

 

It is the modern day version or using bold or underline HTML language to add inflection to your sentence or to a word.

 

A lot of people don't realize that something like 80% of communicating is with body language. The rest is the tone, inflection and emphisis you use with the rise and/or fall of your voice. So we lose SO much of our communication with written word it's important to add inflection/emphisis by other means. And that's where bold, underline and italics come into play (or in my case, asteriks or understrikes!).

 

I'm truly sorry about that guys, what it really comes down to is my being stubborn and sticking with the old ways of text based discussions. With the HTML properties and features we all <grin> have available to us, I really ought to (need to) start using those features on this forum (Note: not *all* forums have HTML tags available to them).

 

I'm just *so* used to the old school way, as they say.... "it's hard to teach a old dog new tricks". Sometimes impossible. Sometimes it's just a matter of having a stubborn old fool that hates change.

 

I have to remember what I used to write on the white board before each of my classes I taught...."Don't resist change, it will happen without you".

 

You may have also noticed I use things like <smile>, <snerk>, <chuckle>, <lol>, etc. rather than the emoticons avaiable to us. That is also a leftover feature from text based discussion groups.

 

I will try to change my style (or as some may say, "lack thereof") but it will take some time so you will probably see a point of 'evolution' where a little of both is used.

 

But hey, thanks for asking because if you hadn't, I would never realize that my form of communication is going right over most (many?) of your heads.

 

 

Thanks again,

Phill (and, I apologize)

[07SGT0547]

AT LEAST HE WASN'T YELLING AT ALL OF US

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

[BIKEBOY]

Hey, NO problem! If you don't ask, you won't ever know.

 

What that is, is me showing my age...or more appropriately, how long I've been involved with discussions forums and the Internet (a long time!).

 

Way back when, "back in the day", back "in the beginning" we didn't have HTML based discussion forums. They were all strictly text based. So if you wanted to interject tone & inflection into a sentence and/or put emphisis on a word you had to either use *astericks* or _understrikes_.

 

It is the modern day version or using bold or underline HTML language to add inflection to your sentence or to a word.

 

A lot of people don't realize that something like 80% of communicating is with body language. The rest is the tone, inflection and emphisis you use with the rise and/or fall of your voice. So we lose SO much of our communication with written word it's important to add inflection/emphisis by other means. And that's where bold, underline and italics come into play (or in my case, asteriks or understrikes!).

 

I'm truly sorry about that guys, what it really comes down to is my being stubborn and sticking with the old ways of text based discussions. With the HTML properties and features we all <grin> have available to us, I really ought to (need to) start using those features on this forum (Note: not *all* forums have HTML tags available to them).

 

I'm just *so* used to the old school way, as they say.... "it's hard to teach a old dog new tricks". Sometimes impossible. Sometimes it's just a matter of having a stubborn old fool that hates change.

 

I have to remember what I used to write on the white board before each of my classes I taught...."Don't resist change, it will happen without you".

 

You may have also noticed I use things like <smile>, <snerk>, <chuckle>, <lol>, etc. rather than the emoticons avaiable to us. That is also a leftover feature from text based discussion groups.

 

I will try to change my style (or as some may say, "lack thereof") but it will take some time so you will probably see a point of 'evolution' where a little of both is used.

 

But hey, thanks for asking because if you hadn't, I would never realize that my form of communication is going right over most (many?) of your heads.

 

 

Thanks again,

Phill (and, I apologize)

 

Phill, we're WAY off topic here now, of "Secret Tune"......but I must say that I truly thought this was going to be your answer to this inquiry.

 

I have been talking to you and watching your postings, and notice that you are a very 'fair' and compassionate person. I knew there would be no malice in anything you post. I for one, try to do the same. In fact, I am thinking of beginning an automotive writing career here real soon. I am going to begin some free-lance article writing in the automotive realm. Personally, I would have named you as one of the more reasonable minded posters here on this site. I think we all know who are the easier going, sensible, thoughtful, and relevant contributors to our forum.

 

Thanks for the clarification!

 

BIKEBOY

 

Now.....

[2010KonaBlueGT]

AT LEAST HE WASN'T YELLING AT ALL OF US

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

 

 

 

Oh yeah, and there is that too.

 

All caps is considered "YELLING" in plain text dialog.

 

Eeesh, has online chat really changed *that* (that) much in such a short time?

 

 

Phill

[jbmerrillz]

If this engine (the 5.4L modular) can't take 8 grand, there's something wrong with it.

 

What are the rods made of, butter? Are they forged, cast or sintered (seriously)?

 

I've taken 'basically' stock 396ci and 454ci Big Block Chevy's to 7800rpm all day long and everyone says you can't do THAT either.

 

If I could, my rev limiter would be set at 7,000rpm on my 2010 GT500 and I'd be shifting her at about 6800rpm.

 

6250 is CRAZY LOW for a engine this small (what is it, 331 or 333 ci?). We have 4 valves per cylinder with twin overhead cams operating them. They're barely starting to breathe at 6250rpm and there's certainly more HP left if you took it up to 7K.

 

 

Phill

 

 

(Below, where I used capslock I was trying to express emphasis and I didn't mean it to be yelling -- thanks to this thread I know better now. My apologies)

 

Phill, thank you very much. I'm glad someone that has experienced an engine with wrenches rather than magazines pages finally threw out a dose of reality. I was building small blocks in the early 70s and the 327 was my favorite, probably because I had three of them. I romped those things like any 20 something kid would -- constantly. I probably shifted more at 7000 and above than ever below. I was young and dum and romped a 67 camaro everywhere. I cracked a ring, blew a trany, broke a spring, wore out engines in 75,000 or less, but I never had a rod problem. And I had bone stock rods and didn't have aluminum pistons which my KR does have so it's reciprocating mass is less. Some of these guys cringe as if I'm planing to drive from NY to LA at 7000rpm the whole way. I'm really surprised and almost shocked at the responses I have seen here and in two other topics over increasing the somehow sacred factory rev limit. WHAT IS WRONG WITH LETTING THE DRIVER CHOSE THE LIMIT ON THE FLY??? How did we win WW2 without rev limits on jeeps tanks boat planes etc.? Why didn't they all blow up the first week. Anyone ever heard of war power on a mustang, a p51 mustang? OK, I got carried away on the soap box here but let's please get real. Shifting at 6750 instead of 6250 isn't going to blow up a 5.4 especially when you consider I don't drive like a 20 year old anymore and it may see that kind of use once every two months or so. In other words it probably spends less than 10 seconds a year above the factory rev limit. ...and maybe my car is different but it wants to rev. It's BUILDING Hp power big time and far from plateau-ing even at 6800 and sure torque has started to drop a little but these things have a pretty flat torque curve too. If you drove only by feel, with no tach or limit, I don't think you'd ever shift that low and then you would be getting up into a dagerous area but 500 or even 700 over factory for 10 seconds a year just isn't going to blow up an engine and it does a heck of a lot more for my spirit than most things in life and the minimal increased harm it might do just is not worth giving up all those good feelings. You know... If you keep you boat dry it'll last longer; but me, I'll probably find open water, cruise it once to check for swimmers or debris, etc. AND THEN, I'll wanna see how fast she'll go and people will appear to tell me it'll last longer if I don't do that but I guess I'm not made that way. 7000 foolish me, I asked for 7500 but they said they won't go above what they think is safe for the hardware and the guys that do this for a living told me that 7000 is a safe for the engine rev limit. That seals it for me. And Phill, I like your style. Thank for the dose of reality. May you always smile when your tires burn. Of course, that's really hard on tires and they will wear out if you do that. 2 funny!

[jbmerrillz]

jbmerrillz,

 

You have not discovered anything "new". Most of us who took delivery of Job 1 '07 GT500's were well aware of Ford's PDI procedures including the "J10 reset". Did you bother to do a "search" on this site for this information? I can guarantee you that there are dozens of threads that include some mention of this, and it has nothing to do with "secretly" unlocking some tune that unleashes vast quantities of extra horsepower!

 

The "valet" tune in the cars (for shipment) merely keeps the by-pass valve on the supercharger open for a given number of recordable functions (ie: consective miles, 5, or number of starts, 50). After that, the only thing relevant to the J10 reset is the adaptive learning built into the software.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble, but your SOTP gauge needs recalibration...................

 

 

 

edit: spelling errors

 

 

Vern, I never said I found anything new or unknown. I just found something in the service deptments manuals that isn't in the owners manuals. The guy who answered the phone when I call ford service here knew nothing about it. I thought I'd share my good fortune with this forum is case someone else could benefit as I have. I've since found out that in fact the KR does need the same J10 reset as all GT500s and mine obviously had never been reset. As far as gobs of horsepower, again your words not mine; however, it seems a stuck open bypass would rob gobs of horsepower so why wouldn't correcting that add back those gobs of horsepower. And I never said gobs. I said it was like a different car and it was and I said obivous increases in perfomane and boost which happened. As far as your remote determination of and out of cal SOTP guage, well I call bullsign on that one. Lastly, have no worry at all... You can't burst my bubble -- I'm driving a GT500KR, a freaking KR... Know what I mean, Vern?

 

To: All except Vern here, I appologize for the bragging but I really dislike haters and sometimes I talk back to 'em. I do try to keep it clean.