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Brake Cooling Duct Kit - 2011 GT500 SVTPP


Madlock

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Because the dealer will have my car for a few days to prep it before delivery (they're swapping the wheels and tires and doing a complete inventory and cataloging of the documentation, stickers, etc.), I've been considering what else might make sense for me to have them to before I take delivery (which I can then also officially document in the deal sheet for archival purposes). Because I plan to track the car on occasion - and very few investments made in brake systems are ever bad ones, brake cooling ducts came to mind as a potentially beneficial modification to have performed while they have the car up on the lift to swap its wheels and tires.

 

I've seen a couple of FR kits listed, the M-2004-A (which lists model years through 2009), and the MUCH more expensive FR500C (M-2005-A) kit that includes carbon fiber duct inlets and so forth (at a MUCH steeper price tag).

 

Does anybody know what the correct Ford Racing part(s)/kit(s) is(are) for the 2011 GT500 (w/SVTPP)?

 

Given the common S197 chassis, are kits from previous model years compatible with the 2011 GT500, or are the suspension and brake components incompatible between 2011 and any other years?

 

I've also seen some third party aftermarket kits referenced here and there, but I'd prefer to remain faithful to Ford, Ford Racing, and (to a lesser degree) Shelby for my component and accessory selection.

 

Thanks!

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Just a bit off topic but my heart is in t he right place.

 

"Because the dealer will have my car for a few days to prep it before delivery . . . ."

 

I suggest that you make arrangements with your dealer that they not do anything in the way of prepping the outside of your car, as in not even washing it. You only have one chance to have new paint and, typically, a dealer will do more damage to your paint in the process of making it look new car ready than you can imagine. If you are not already set up with car care products, you should get set up before you take delivery. There are many good products out there but I have had the best results with products from a Team Shelby member, Show Car (Steve). He owns his own detailing shop and has been a great source of information to many here. The link to his web site is here: http://www.showcardetail.com/

 

At the very least, you need to clay bar your car upon deliver so you remove all the imperfections from the paint before you do anything else to it. It is a labor intensive task but well worth it. Plus, you will get to know every square inch of the paint on your car.

 

Hope you get delivery before Winter arrives. Sounds like you will have a beautiful ride real soon.

 

 

Jim

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Because the dealer will have my car for a few days to prep it before delivery (they're swapping the wheels and tires and doing a complete inventory and cataloging of the documentation, stickers, etc.), I've been considering what else might make sense for me to have them to before I take delivery (which I can then also officially document in the deal sheet for archival purposes). Because I plan to track the car on occasion - and very few investments made in brake systems are ever bad ones, brake cooling ducts came to mind as a potentially beneficial modification to have performed while they have the car up on the lift to swap its wheels and tires.

 

I've seen a couple of FR kits listed, the M-2004-A (which lists model years through 2009), and the MUCH more expensive FR500C (M-2005-A) kit that includes carbon fiber duct inlets and so forth (at a MUCH steeper price tag).

 

Does anybody know what the correct Ford Racing part(s)/kit(s) is(are) for the 2011 GT500 (w/SVTPP)?

 

Given the common S197 chassis, are kits from previous model years compatible with the 2011 GT500, or are the suspension and brake components incompatible between 2011 and any other years?

 

I've also seen some third party aftermarket kits referenced here and there, but I'd prefer to remain faithful to Ford, Ford Racing, and (to a lesser degree) Shelby for my component and accessory selection.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

With regards to the brake cooling kit # M-2004-A, althought it is listed in the 2010 catalogue it is no longer on the FRPP website. furthermore, when I inquired on getting a set of replacements hoses the parts manager of my local dealership told me that FORD no longer sells this kit.

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With regards to the brake cooling kit # M-2004-A, althought it is listed in the 2010 catalogue it is no longer on the FRPP website. furthermore, when I inquired on getting a set of replacements hoses the parts manager of my local dealership told me that FORD no longer sells this kit.

 

 

BuyFordRacing.com had the FRPP front brake ducting kit for sale (around $122.00, IIRC) but I just looked and it appears they are NOT selling them any longer.

 

Must have sold out their inventory and as all else have said, FRPP is no longer selling/making them.

 

You might try places like Blue Oval Industries or other such independant FRPP dealers to see if they have any remaining in stock.

 

Truth be told, I bought mine from BuyFordRacing.com because I heard Ford was no longer selling them so I figured I'd grab a kit while they were still available....just in case.

 

Turns out, "in case" is here.

 

Can you point me to the URL for the FR500C or the CJ ducting kit? I'd like to see what the difference is.

 

Oh, and FWIW Shelby is in the process of making up a ducting kit. They already have a GREAT one for the 2010/11's but I've never been able to get a answer from *anyone* at Shelby as to whether or not they will sell them to the GP.

 

 

Hope you find what you're looking for,

Phill Pollard

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BuyFordRacing.com had the FRPP front brake ducting kit for sale (around $122.00, IIRC) but I just looked and it appears they are NOT selling them any longer.

 

Must have sold out their inventory and as all else have said, FRPP is no longer selling/making them.

 

You might try places like Blue Oval Industries or other such independant FRPP dealers to see if they have any remaining in stock.

 

Truth be told, I bought mine from BuyFordRacing.com because I heard Ford was no longer selling them so I figured I'd grab a kit while they were still available....just in case.

 

Turns out, "in case" is here.

 

Can you point me to the URL for the FR500C or the CJ ducting kit? I'd like to see what the difference is.

 

Oh, and FWIW Shelby is in the process of making up a ducting kit. They already have a GREAT one for the 2010/11's but I've never been able to get a answer from *anyone* at Shelby as to whether or not they will sell them to the GP.

 

 

Hope you find what you're looking for,

Phill Pollard

 

 

I'm also interested in knowing if Shelby will be making their rear brake cooling kits available as well. I'm getting ready to upgrade my back brakes and would like to get something for the rear of my '08 convertible.

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I'm also interested in knowing if Shelby will be making their rear brake cooling kits available as well. I'm getting ready to upgrade my back brakes and would like to get something for the rear of my '08 convertible.

 

 

We have asked this question in other threads and Shelby has never responded....in the negative or positive.

 

If any of you ever get a chance, check out the FRONT brake cooling ducts on a 2010 and/or 2011 Super Snake. The are *totally* different than the previous models (KR or SS).

 

The don't use the opening in front grill, from the ducts behind the grill that are provided by Ford anymore (as they did in the '07-'09 KR's and SS's).

 

It's hard to explain but let me try;

 

The intake "duct" is a long, kind of "vacuum cleaner" attachment looking thing. Almost like a big crevice tool but open along one edge. It's round on the "exit" (hose) end but if I remember correctly, it's a *considerably* larger diameter than the FRPP duct hose that Ford Racing (and KR's) use. I think it's a 4" hose on the SS vs a 3" hose (or is it 2.5" hose) on the Ford Racing kits. Then the round part evlolves into a "flatter" long (ish), kind of a upside down U with the "vent" opening on the bottom side, facing down towards the ground. Rather than using the front of the grill and cutting openings (which screws up your aero) it mounts up *behind* the splitter, and up above it. The opening is about level with the bottom of the splitter so you *barely* see the duct, unless you get down on the ground and look for it. I was told there is a high pressure area right at that area (which makes sense) so air is actually "forced" (or 'pushed') into the brake vent hose for better brake rotor cooling.

 

I have asked and asked and asked and asked (Shelby, on this forum), if they are or ever will become available to the GP. I have been totally ignored by ALL at Shelby as to what the answer is. Hey, a big 'ole "screw you" would be better than silence! lol At least I'd know the saw my question.

 

FROM WHAT I COULD SEE (laying on the ground trying to look under a lowered GT500SS!) the rear duct intakes are either the same as the front or very similar to them in that the "intake ducts" appeared to be similar looking (downward facing intakes). If they are not THE same item as the front intake ducts, the appear very similar. I could not see how the hoses were connected, routed or what/where they attached to at the brake rotor end, just the "intake" end of the ducting.

 

I know Robert posted a photo of a brake duct backing plate for the front wheels but I don't believe it is anything near or close to what they use on the Super Snake (at this time).

 

And apparently they are keeping it "under wraps" as much as possible, and I'm not sure why.

 

If anyone has a 2010/11 SS that can get the car up on a rack and get some photo's of the ducts, it sure would be nice.

 

And if anyone from SHELBY would tell me EITHER WAY, if (at least) the front ducts will ever be available to the GP, it would be even nicer!

 

 

Anyone?

 

TIA,

Phill

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Oh, and FWIW Shelby is in the process of making up a ducting kit. They already have a GREAT one for the 2010/11's but I've never been able to get a answer from *anyone* at Shelby as to whether or not they will sell them to the GP.

 

 

 

Shelby has a great kit for the 2010/11 what?

 

As for the discontinued FRPP kit, although it's specified model through the 2010 GT, from all the looking I've done, it's about as straightforward a functional part as exists - unless the SVTPP includes a modified brake or wheel bearing assembly that prevents it from fitting.

 

Otherwise, it's a matter of running duct hoses to the front fascia where sufficient airflow exists and there's enough real estate to accommodate the intake mounts which are nothing more than a mounting flange. Some aftermarket companies offer adapters that go right for the natural apertures created by the fog lamps and offer adapter mounts meant to accommodate the duct intake in their place.

 

I'm not certain I'd go so far as to be willing to swap-out my fog lamps, but if sufficient airflow exists in the honeycomb above the chin splitter, I'd have no qualms about just buying a spare honeycomb to make the process reversible. if there's no way to make it cosmetically appealing. What concerns me most is that even the installation documentation seems to leave a finished product that looks anything but.

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Shelby has a great kit for the 2010/11 what?

 

 

 

For the 2010/11 GT500 Super Snake.

 

Isn't this the 2010-2011 GT500 forum???

 

 

 

Phill

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Curious what this means. What documentation and stickers (aside from the OM books and the MSRP tag, what else is there)? Why the complete inventory?

 

 

+1

 

I simply saved all of the books and sticker(s) that were on the car.

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  • 8 months later...

+1

 

I simply saved all of the books and sticker(s) that were on the car.

 

 

Hi guys - Awesome subject here. I'm glad I ran across this, because I have a 2011 SVTPP GT500, and I'm making a brake cooling kit for it, based on researching the web. I knew the 2009 GT500 KR set up (which is the FRPP) kit that your siting, would not work, because the ducting is different, and there are no inlets for the 2010/2011 GT500 SVTPP...... Or so I thought. I was (gladly) mistaken to take off a couple of the underside plastics, and stuck my head in to look at the backside of the honeycomb part, only to find that Ford did think of us yet again... If you look, there are perfect 2.5 inch tubes pointing back from the inside of the honey comb face, that would be perfect for air ducting. I looked at them closer, and they are right on the edges of the honeycombs. Yes... the front side of them is closed off, because of the honeycomb, but I plan on taking a die grinder, and just opening the insides of the honeycomb parts, so you won't hardly be able to tell, yet this should get good inlet for brake cooling, which the SVTPP doesn't need much of honestly. I took it for a full hard day at Autobahn Country Club with Hooked on Driving, with 100+ MPH full brake stops, and never got brake fade. (It was a cooler day, yet still showed the natural brakes capability) I checked a couple of things... first of all when I took off the rotors, they have racing type of air venting vains.... The inside vains on the rotor are not just straight, there are 6 vains for every normal rotor would have 1... This is to increase the surface area for cooling. It works... Also the brake pads are not your normal compound. I checked those too, and the compound is different, and if you try to buy them from Ford you'll see the price tag for special pads. $250 for a front set... Anyway, I too believe in no brake investment is bad, so am planning on finishing this off, and sending out some pictures of how I acheived it. Also I have only made a few minor cuts to some of the plastics to allow the duct hose to snake back to the wheel arch. I do need some help to finish this though, and then I can help you all by posting some pictures of the finished product. Also - I'm making the rotor plates out of the stock plates with 2.5" exhaust pipe from the local auto supplier for the inlet to the brake rotor. I'm keeping it tight to the center of the rotor to help the most with bearings, and rotor cooling, rather than the wear surface, which is commonly known to cause cracking on weak rotors. Everything I've read says keep the air to the inside of the rotor, and it will help and not harm.

 

1. Does anyone know where to get the BLUE or BLACK hi-temp air ducting in 2.5" ID..... I have found orange, but don't want orange... I need something a little more slick.

2. Does anyone know or have visuals of removing just the front honey comb grille (lower) so I can cut it on the bench....

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1. Does anyone know where to get the BLUE or BLACK hi-temp air ducting in 2.5" ID..... I have found orange, but don't want orange... I need something a little more slick.

 

 

 

Doesn't look like there is much out there besides orange and iron red (which looks orange to me) in the high heat catagory.

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Hi guys - Awesome subject here. I'm glad I ran across this, because I have a 2011 SVTPP GT500, and I'm making a brake cooling kit for it, based on researching the...

 

1. Does anyone know where to get the BLUE or BLACK hi-temp air ducting in 2.5" ID..... I have found orange, but don't want orange... I need something a little more slick.

2. Does anyone know or have visuals of removing just the front honey comb grille (lower) so I can cut it on the bench....

 

 

It was pretty inexpensive to just get the Ford 302 kit and install it on the 2011's. Comes with everything you need except maybe a piece of rubber/plastic to put around the inlet behind the bumper to fit the 3" ducting and perhaps the trim rings you can get from JLT.

 

Good luck on your project.

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It was pretty inexpensive to just get the Ford 302 kit and install it on the 2011's. Comes with everything you need except maybe a piece of rubber/plastic to put around the inlet behind the bumper to fit the 3" ducting and perhaps the trim rings you can get from JLT.

 

Good luck on your project.

 

 

 

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M2004MB/2010-12-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Boss-302-Brake-Cooling-Duct-Kit

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here's what they would look likepost-28618-0-65045900-1306886722_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Thanks. Yet another project to put on the list. this is the type of project that needs to be done in a group modding environment. Get a half dozen cars together and knock them all out in an afternoon.

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Thanks. Yet another project to put on the list. this is the type of project that needs to be done in a group modding environment. Get a half dozen cars together and knock them all out in an afternoon.

 

 

 

Agreed.

 

ESPECIALLY for boring and mounting the intake bezels - the kind of process just MADE for a jig and being made repeatable - particularly for the 10/12 owners who seem to lack a dedicated bezel and must make do with making the the 05-09 bezels fit.

 

I'm surprised the JLT bezels (at least from the pictures provided) don't see to include any kind of debris screen.

 

 

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It was pretty inexpensive to just get the Ford 302 kit and install it on the 2011's. Comes with everything you need except maybe a piece of rubber/plastic to put around the inlet behind the bumper to fit the 3" ducting and perhaps the trim rings you can get from JLT.

 

Good luck on your project.

 

 

 

Sell I ordered my set this evening then while looking around for the back set I found this about the front set:

 

Application. This BOSS 302 Brake Duct Kit is designed for use on 2010 to 2012 or newer GT Mustangs with the BOSS or California Special style lower front fascia installed, will not fit Shelby GT500

 

So .. I'm hoping that means that is will take a little customizing and not that it will NOT fit ... :banghead:

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If you rummage through the posts a couple of us have done it to our 2011's. I just haven't had the chance to drill out the backside of the lower grill to create a hole for the duct. The reason they say it won't fit is because you have to drill out the 2 holes in the lower grill. The actual "bumper" has receptacles about 2-1/2 in diameter pre formed into the backside. The major issue to this point was the rotor backing plate wasn't compatible until now. Those plates bolt right up and the dealer popped them on when I had my 1-2 grind repair work done.

 

Now all I have to do is find the time to basically crawl under there and punch a couple holes to accommodate the ductwork and attach it to the backplates.

 

Tres spiffy!

 

EDIT: I'm happy to pull the part # off the box I still have in the garage.

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Just learned that JLT doesn't have the black bezel in stock and they do not have any plans to restock that item. Anyone have a set they want to part with ....

 

Anyone have suggestions for an alternate idea? I'm thinking about some black PVC one pipe inside the other to form a front lip and then having it protrude through the lower grill (inward) where the tubing clamp will hold it in place. It will take some sanding, a little bondo and some more paint but that is the best I can come up with as of now. I'm open to suggestions.

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Just learned that JLT doesn't have the black bezel in stock and they do not have any plans to restock that item. Anyone have a set they want to part with ....

 

Anyone have suggestions for an alternate idea? I'm thinking about some black PVC one pipe inside the other to form a front lip and then having it protrude through the lower grill (inward) where the tubing clamp will hold it in place. It will take some sanding, a little bondo and some more paint but that is the best I can come up with as of now. I'm open to suggestions.

 

 

Well, THAT sucks - for sure.

 

What's SO silly is that they needn't be made of any kind of exotic material or space shuttle design. Even ABS plastic would do. It need only have a nice finish and a collared effect that would allow a narrower (outer profile) portion to extend through a bored-out hole that's either threaded on the back side to hold a large plastic retaining nut - or even Uber-Glue might work. A pair of hose clams and you're done.

 

I wonder if a rapid prototype with a gelcoat paint would even suffice.

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Well, THAT sucks - for sure.

 

What's SO silly is that they needn't be made of any kind of exotic material or space shuttle design. Even ABS plastic would do. It need only have a nice finish and a collared effect that would allow a narrower (outer profile) portion to extend through a bored-out hole that's either threaded on the back side to hold a large plastic retaining nut - or even Uber-Glue might work. A pair of hose clams and you're done.

 

I wonder if a rapid prototype with a gelcoat paint would even suffice.

 

 

 

I'm going to make a trip to Lowe's this evening and just walk around the plumbing section to see if anything else jumps out at me.

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Just learned that JLT doesn't have the black bezel in stock and they do not have any plans to restock that item. Anyone have a set they want to part with ....

 

Anyone have suggestions for an alternate idea? I'm thinking about some black PVC one pipe inside the other to form a front lip and then having it protrude through the lower grill (inward) where the tubing clamp will hold it in place. It will take some sanding, a little bondo and some more paint but that is the best I can come up with as of now. I'm open to suggestions.

 

You could have the bezels powder coated. I did this for my 2010, cost was $40. Since I had to grind the bezels to make them fit, powder coating was needed anyways (IMHO). Here's a pic after the grinding and powder coating (aluminum mesh too).

 

DSC02136.jpg

 

 

 

Best of luck.

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