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I came close to buying the manifold today from summit racing they have it 49.00 cheaper than american muscle. But my problem is SHOW ME SOME #'s I have blown 600.00 on worse things before but looking to see some dyno #'s not estimates

 

Peace Out

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I came close to buying the manifold today from summit racing they have it 49.00 cheaper than american muscle. But my problem is SHOW ME SOME #'s I have blown 600.00 on worse things before but looking to see some dyno #'s not estimates

 

Peace Out

 

Racer,

Check out the article from this Sept. Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords. They put it on an engine dyno anyway.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_1009_ford_racing_three_valve_intake_manifold_testing/index.html

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Got mine from Tousley Ford. 1 800 328-9552 Internet special $495.00 19.00 shipping if order is less than $1,000.00 I havent installed it yet, waiting for a Ford racing throttle body ($495) and cams ($726). Harley

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I came close to buying the manifold today from summit racing they have it 49.00 cheaper than american muscle. But my problem is SHOW ME SOME #'s I have blown 600.00 on worse things before but looking to see some dyno #'s not estimates

 

Peace Out

Check this out $529.00 with free shipping,$10.00 more but they usually beat others prices and should be able to give you the hp increase numbers

Ford Racing intake

 

Found a link on a test of the new intake from the FRPP site

intake test

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Thanks guys I guess it's time to man up and order it and deal with the wife later. Summit racing has it for 549.00 and amercian muscle is 599.00. I like buying from either of them due to my good status with them and they let me return stuff even if it was installed and I didn't like it. So the intake and while it's off 160 thermostat should be a nice touch and I might change the anti-freeze.

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You might want to check out this thread before moving forward with the purchase of the FRPP intake http://s197.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40496

 

 

I wouldn't bother reading through all that crap. Ford Racing and Livernois testing claims are about right. For a stock SGT I'd expect about 7-15HP gain. For a blown car, I'd expect ~25-35. Some where in between those two for heads/cams.

 

Mine came in yesterday. This thing is huge.

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I was at an event where a vendor said they had a 30 hp gain without having to tune.

 

 

I have to assume this vendor didn't know what he was talking about. I don't buy that the manifold could be installed and run successfully without a tune.

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I have to assume this vendor didn't know what he was talking about. I don't buy that the manifold could be installed and run successfully without a tune.

 

 

That's not true. I installed mine last Friday and took it to the track on Saturday. I sprayed it with a 125 shot of N20 three times so it's fine.

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That's not true. I installed mine last Friday and took it to the track on Saturday. I sprayed it with a 125 shot of N20 three times so it's fine.

 

 

Seriously!? Without a new tune? Surprising! Then why is a tune needed with the charge motion deletes?

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Maybe this is just the Ford lawyers being overly cautious but on the FRPP website it says: "Calibration required! Calibration not included!"

 

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11478

 

Also in the Instruction Sheet it says: "WARNING: DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE UNTIL CALIBRATION UPDATE IS COMPLETE! ENGINE DAMAGE

MAY OCCUR!"

 

I don't doubt that the car will start and run with the stock tune and the new manifold installed. Just not sure if that is a good idea.

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I wouldn't bother reading through all that crap. Ford Racing and Livernois testing claims are about right. For a stock SGT I'd expect about 7-15HP gain. For a blown car, I'd expect ~25-35. Some where in between those two for heads/cams.

 

Mine came in yesterday. This thing is huge.

 

 

 

Can we trust this article, which states about 350 hp from a stock 4.6? I'm I reading this incorrectly?? :headscratch:

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Remeber, this is on motor that isn't burdened with AC and power steering. However, a stock SGT is 319 at the motor and people have regularly seen an additional 10 to 15 with nothing more then a tune. Add some better breathing to that tune and another 15hp isn't such a stretch.

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Remeber, this is on motor that isn't burdened with AC and power steering. However, a stock SGT is 319 at the motor and people have regularly seen an additional 10 to 15 with nothing more then a tune. Add some better breathing to that tune and another 15hp isn't such a stretch.

 

 

I agree every bit helps just look at my set up. By running that brake duct tube into my CAI fresh cold air being forced in is better than nice hot engine air. Even the 2010 gt 500 has a tube by the grille.

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Remeber, this is on motor that isn't burdened with AC and power steering. However, a stock SGT is 319 at the motor and people have regularly seen an additional 10 to 15 with nothing more then a tune. Add some better breathing to that tune and another 15hp isn't such a stretch.

 

 

OK, that makes sense...

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Im not so sure this intake is a good idea for normally aspirated / unmodified engines. I charted the numbers. Generally, the HP and TQ are less below approx. 5300 rpm, where most driving is done, but higher above that and do hold longer. In the end result, it may not help at all. I guess some real world testing (you guys) would be good to see.

 

edit - added chart...

 

FordRacingIntake.jpg

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I know about the warnings on the install sheet for proper calibration. I ignored them :). It will throw a code for IMRC plates, but it has no impact on the safety of the tune...none. It doesn't even turn on the check engine light and you'd never knew it even existed if you didn't have a scanner/tuner.

 

I have a Zex nitrous system with a window switch setup on my car. I've been spraying a 100 shot of nitrous for nearly 2 years with the FRPP cams. Probably about 15 bottles or so I've put through my SGT. I installed GT500 fuel pumps/FRPP intake, and upped the shot to 125 this past weekend.

 

 

This is my opinion of it so far with my own experience and taking in consideration of the testing that I've seen from others. A stock or mildly modified 4.6 is not going to see much gain at all. I think entry level for this manifold is to at least have some high lift cams. I can not tell any difference in driving around town or at the track with the manifold. I do believe it helps distribute the nitrous charge more evenly to the cylinders, but again I can't confirm that because I don't have a A/F wideband on each header primary. All I can tell you is it didn't blow up on one 100 shot pass and three 125 shot passes.

 

I'll be going to a Paxton/Forged shortblock setup soon so that helped influence my decision to buy this intake. I've seen some other FI guys get some pretty decent gains with this manifold. As much as I'd like to get it on a dyno and see what kind of power it's making now compared to before, I probably won't due to wanting a new engine setup soon. Before I was making ~330rwhp SAE with just the FRPP cams, headers, and catless X(no nitrous). If I do dyno it I'll post up the new numbers.

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Im not so sure this intake is a good idea for normally aspirated / unmodified engines. I charted the numbers. Generally, the HP and TQ are less below approx. 5300 rpm, where most driving is done, but higher above that and do hold longer. In the end result, it may not help at all. I guess some real world testing (you guys) would be good to see.

 

edit - added chart...

 

 

 

That's exactly was I was thinking...

 

Unless you plan to run at 7,000+ rpm all the time, then I don't see any significant gains on a STOCK 4.6L 3V...

 

Now, if you are planning to use the complete set (heads, cams, etc) for track use, then I can totally agree on adding this hi-flow manifold to the list of upgrades...

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

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I know about the warnings on the install sheet for proper calibration. I ignored them :). It will throw a code for IMRC plates, but it has no impact on the safety of the tune...none. It doesn't even turn on the check engine light and you'd never knew it even existed if you didn't have a scanner/tuner.

 

I have a Zex nitrous system with a window switch setup on my car. I've been spraying a 100 shot of nitrous for nearly 2 years with the FRPP cams. Probably about 15 bottles or so I've put through my SGT. I installed GT500 fuel pumps/FRPP intake, and upped the shot to 125 this past weekend.

 

 

This is my opinion of it so far with my own experience and taking in consideration of the testing that I've seen from others. A stock or mildly modified 4.6 is not going to see much gain at all. I think entry level for this manifold is to at least have some high lift cams. I can not tell any difference in driving around town or at the track with the manifold. I do believe it helps distribute the nitrous charge more evenly to the cylinders, but again I can't confirm that because I don't have a A/F wideband on each header primary. All I can tell you is it didn't blow up on one 100 shot pass and three 125 shot passes.

 

I'll be going to a Paxton/Forged shortblock setup soon so that helped influence my decision to buy this intake. I've seen some other FI guys get some pretty decent gains with this manifold. As much as I'd like to get it on a dyno and see what kind of power it's making now compared to before, I probably won't due to wanting a new engine setup soon. Before I was making ~330rwhp SAE with just the FRPP cams, headers, and catless X(no nitrous). If I do dyno it I'll post up the new numbers.

 

 

Thanks Mr. Kurgan for the info, I just recieved my intake manifold and with my few upgrades not expecting any huge gain but every bit counts plus it looks cool and my wife angry. What could make a husband happier :hysterical: a lap dance

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I would paint the new manifold any ways. Hey at least it will have that pearl sheen to it. :)

No seriously, if it will not change the HP very much and is basically unnoticeable even on the "seat of the pants dyno" I would probably return it unless you are choosing to do the cams and other mods soon. If that is the case I'd probably do it all at once instead of taking it apart and then doing it again for the rest of the mods. That is your choice though Racer. Good luck and keep us informed.

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I would paint the new manifold any ways. Hey at least it will have that pearl sheen to it. :)

No seriously, if it will not change the HP very much and is basically unnoticeable even on the "seat of the pants dyno" I would probably return it unless you are choosing to do the cams and other mods soon. If that is the case I'd probably do it all at once instead of taking it apart and then doing it again for the rest of the mods. That is your choice though Racer. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

 

Now, I know that it's not the real swedman can somone call the FBI he must have been replaced by an Alien :alien: who is kind minded. I was so excited when, I saw he posted but only to be let down. Can someone please rip me a new one !!!

 

Swedman guess you didn't read my list of mods you figure a excellent of heads and the hotrod cams would be a big plus with this intake. Down the line will pull the engine and have it done with some nice upgrades. Once everything matched up it will all be worth it. You figure on my old 445 engine you would port and polish the intake manifold to match the heads good even flow is a major plus. Even better for forced air less friction cooler air and of course Volume with the new breed of computer cars we have you need a computer tech to properly tune your car to get the most out of it.

I also brang this up before you guys that go to the tracks should be wrapping your intake tube with heat resistance tape you have that upper rad hose already heating the air coming in. Put a rubber space to not have the hose against the tube the cooler the better.

 

Caio and swedman if you come into NY buzz me or PM we'll meet up and house near me there price drop less than nothing best time to buy.

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You might want to check out this thread before moving forward with the purchase of the FRPP intake http://s197.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40496

 

I did read throgh some of this "stuff". What about the sides of the intake flexing and moving the fuel rails in? Doesn't sound good. Anyone with more knowledge care to chime in?

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I did read throgh some of this "stuff". What about the sides of the intake flexing and moving the fuel rails in? Doesn't sound good. Anyone with more knowledge care to chime in?

 

 

 

That flexing isn't going to do anything and it's not concerning enough to me to take mine off. Prove mewrong with evidence of it causing an issue.

 

I feel better with the FRPP manifold on the car because of it's ability to distribute the air more evenly to all cylinders. Anyone who's taken off their stock manifold and looked at the CMP's knows that the front cylinders get more air than the rears. I'd rather have the flexing than running different AFR's on different cylinders.

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That flexing isn't going to do anything and it's not concerning enough to me to take mine off. Prove mewrong with evidence of it causing an issue.

 

I feel better with the FRPP manifold on the car because of it's ability to distribute the air more evenly to all cylinders. Anyone who's taken off their stock manifold and looked at the CMP's knows that the front cylinders get more air than the rears. I'd rather have the flexing than running different AFR's on different cylinders.

 

 

+ 1 Kurgan !!! By the side of the manifold is flexing to me it means it sucking a lot more air into the cylinders. Now, I might try my electric leaf blower and see if the car stalls out. The agent47 brake duct is not attached to my filter it's about 2 inches away don't have to worry about suxing up water. But its so sealed that it's drawing air from the brake scoop so it nice and cool but one day when, I ever get around to the dyno. I'm going to bring the leaf blower with me just for the hell of it. But to run the blower, I have a 2500 or 1500 inverter to run it off the car. We spoke of this before but, I'm going to try it out it falls under the same principal of a turbo or paxton. But that set up is done by belt driven or exhaust to push the air in imagine all you need is an electric blower and it's 100% self powered no robbing of hp and turn it on when you need it. Whatever air you can shove into those cylinders means more HP it sounds crazy but when the turbo or supercharger was introduced they may have got the same response. Your Crazy guy!!!

 

Anthony

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+ 1 Kurgan !!! By the side of the manifold is flexing to me it means it sucking a lot more air into the cylinders. Now, I might try my electric leaf blower and see if the car stalls out. The agent47 brake duct is not attached to my filter it's about 2 inches away don't have to worry about suxing up water. But its so sealed that it's drawing air from the brake scoop so it nice and cool but one day when, I ever get around to the dyno. I'm going to bring the leaf blower with me just for the hell of it. But to run the blower, I have a 2500 or 1500 inverter to run it off the car. We spoke of this before but, I'm going to try it out it falls under the same principal of a turbo or paxton. But that set up is done by belt driven or exhaust to push the air in imagine all you need is an electric blower and it's 100% self powered no robbing of hp and turn it on when you need it. Whatever air you can shove into those cylinders means more HP it sounds crazy but when the turbo or supercharger was introduced they may have got the same response. Your Crazy guy!!!

 

Anthony

 

 

 

Funny Anthony. I'd like to see that setup when you get it done. I'm not sure it would have enough power to make much of a difference. Good luck tho!

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Funny Anthony. I'd like to see that setup when you get it done. I'm not sure it would have enough power to make much of a difference. Good luck tho!

 

 

Thanks !! When, I first did the brake duct to CAI to see if it worked. I put my leaf blower into the duct on high and the car started going bonkers then stalled. To much air at idle this time, I'll sit in it to see what happens with to rev's up . If needed up the fuel on WOT.

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