1badsho Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 What would the list suggest I get for my Shelby.. I havent expierenced wheel hop yet .. in part I think because I am from Florida. Also I dont jump on it as much as others. I do however want to beef up the rear controling arms a little since I have Nitto R's on the way here and plan to upgrade to EVOs Stage II In recent post it seems most are going with the LCA's and better bushings that are just a bolt on.. period. What Vendor ... BMR .... Steeda ... should I use. I like the steeda look. Like what most of the list have said .. I want to start simple and if need be work my way up to the full blown package from EVO. Dont want to do that now. I will if I have issues .. but need suggestions from the list ! Soon to have better traction and about 50 more rwhp dond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEKAY GT500 Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 What would the list suggest I get for my Shelby.. I havent expierenced wheel hop yet .. in part I think because I am from Florida. Also I dont jump on it as much as others. I do however want to beef up the rear controling arms a little since I have Nitto R's on the way here and plan to upgrade to EVOs Stage II In recent post it seems most are going with the LCA's and better bushings that are just a bolt on.. period. What Vendor ... BMR .... Steeda ... should I use. I like the steeda look. Like what most of the list have said .. I want to start simple and if need be work my way up to the full blown package from EVO. Dont want to do that now. I will if I have issues .. but need suggestions from the list ! Soon to have better traction and about 50 more rwhp dond 1badsho, i think a lot of us thought we needed the entire evo package to lick the wheel hop. it may turn out some of us do. i will be going with the BMR lower myself. havent decided if i want the Tubular TCA019 or billet version TCA027. i suppose i need more feedback. evo switched from steeda to bmr lower for a reason. anyone know the deal behind this? now the problem is since i am getting these earlier than expected. i'll have to wait an extra month on wheels/tires. i know its only $135 or $230 but i am on one tight budget now that i got this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 1badsho, i think a lot of us thought we needed the entire evo package to lick the wheel hop. it may turn out some of us do. i will be going with the BMR lower myself. havent decided if i want the Tubular TCA019 or billet version TCA027. i suppose i need more feedback. evo switched from steeda to bmr lower for a reason. anyone know the deal behind this? now the problem is since i am getting these earlier than expected. i'll have to wait an extra month on wheels/tires. i know its only $135 or $230 but i am on one tight budget now that i got this car. My guess is cost. BMR is less expensive so more profit for them with the cost of th pkg staying equal. I like the look of Steeda too, but really no one will see it so for me it's just a matter of if I can get over it because I like Steeda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVTpower Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Go for BMR..........buy direct off their website. Go for the billet lowers.......... They also have package prices too. Evo kit is good but it is basically BMR stuff put together for you saving you the legwork......off course that comes with a price (profit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07 GT500 Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 I used the TCA018 BMR's on my Shelby. 75-80% of my wheel hop is gone. I have no different noise inside the car, and no difference in ride. It looks to me like you still have to drop the tank to change that upper control arm. Looks as though to get the bolt out of the front of the UCA, the mount has to be dropped down. That is the way it looks, I haven't tried it yet though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badsho Posted February 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 My guess is cost. BMR is less expensive so more profit for them with the cost of th pkg staying equal. I like the look of Steeda too, but really no one will see it so for me it's just a matter of if I can get over it because I like Steeda. Iceman .. that is SOoooooooooooo erie in your thinking .. my exact same thoughts ... i realize no one will ever see it but me and the techs at my store ( THE HELL THEY WILL... old thread...long story) But I too like the steeda look but its twice the money dond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambbo Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 This Kit is impressive if your planing Hard Launch's. DRP001 LEVEL 1 - Package includes HD Boxed lower control arms with polyurethane bushings(TCA019), Adjustable upper control arm with polyurethane bushings(UTCA019), Upper control arm mount(UCM001), Energy Suspension multi-durometer polyurethane differential bushing(EN-1), Control arm Relocation Brackets(CAB005), Swaybar Relocation Brackets(SRK001), and QA1 adjustable rear shocks(MU7857P). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambbo Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 If you are buying new control arms w/ bushings what do you need the EN-1 for? Am I missing something? They replace the factory UCA bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badsho Posted February 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 They replace the factory UCA bushings. Well the Stage II is a done deal .. but looks like I am going to just do the LCA's first and go from there. Still need to find another set of stock rims to put my nittos on dond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.