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Paint Chips


ProntoTonto
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Unfortunately got a couple of small paint chips on the door. Car coming the other way on two lane highway tossed them up : ( It's a 2010 in Performance White, I got the factory touch up paint and really small artist brush and filled them in. I got the paint in the chips leveled nicely with the surrounding paint. However, the paint looks grayish and I've tried several times and it still keeps having a grayish tint. Anybody else have this issue with white? Any suggestions on what other paint to possibly use, methods, etc.?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

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Unfortunately got a couple of small paint chips on the door. Car coming the other way on two lane highway tossed them up : ( It's a 2010 in Performance White, I got the factory touch up paint and really small artist brush and filled them in. I got the paint in the chips leveled nicely with the surrounding paint. However, the paint looks grayish and I've tried several times and it still keeps having a grayish tint. Anybody else have this issue with white? Any suggestions on what other paint to possibly use, methods, etc.?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

 

 

Try Doctor Color Chip its awesome perfect match, I got a chip on my grabber blue used it and was very happy, get the complete kit works great.

Edited by alaska
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I got the factory touch-up paint and really small artist brush and filled them in.

 

It's a stretch, but could the (likely solvent-based) touch-up paint be causing the brush to bleed its bristle "color" into the paint?

 

-Pockdog

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got this from a TS memeber last year--looks to me like you may need to sand/buff to get the color right--bob

 

Too Bad.Got the info below from somewhere, thought it'd be helpful.I use Meguiars #3 for the intial buff out after sanding,then use #9 swirl remover to get all the gloss back

If you want the repair to be unnoticeable, clean all wax etc. from the area with a safe adhesive remover like 3M. Next, you will need to fill the chip so it is SLIGHTLY above the surface paint. Wait 48 hours to dry. Do not hurry the drying with any kind of heat. Soak some 2500 grit wet/dry sand paper for 24 hours. Place the paper around a flat pink pencil eraser(about 1" wide by 2" long). Wet the area you are going to be working on and use the beveled edge of the eraser holding the paper and gently go back forth bringing the raised area down to the level of the paint. Be sure and keep the area well lubricated with water or water mixed with a small amount of gentle car wash. Take your time. Some of the painted area around the chip will begin to look dull and that's OK. Check regularly with your finger and feel if the surface is level. Once the repaired area is at the level of your surface paint, use a fine machine polish and a random orbital machine on a higher setting with a polishing pad. Follow up with wax, and you will have a smooth and almost invisible repair. It takes a little longer, but it looks much better than just touch up paint.

 

This post has been edited by Torched10: 09 November 2009 - 02:05 PM

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You could have got some bad paint, make sure and shake it well also. Takes a while if its been sitting around a while.

 

 

I was gonna suggest the same thing.

 

Most folks don't realize how LONG you need to shake paint for. If it has a rattle in it, just because the rattle broke loose from the paint at the bottom doesn't mean it's "well shaken".

 

Shake that sucker until yer sick of shaking. Then shake it some more.

 

If you DO NOT have a rattle in the bottle/can, you better be prepared to shake that sucker like you're Michael J. Fox!

 

Ten minutes is the minimum I've always shaken paint.

 

Ya ever been to a paint store and watched a paint can shaker? See how fast that thing shakes? Think about how many times it shakes a can in the five minutes they shake a paint can for......now multiply that by 10 since you're gonna shake it about 10 times slower than that paint can shaker can shake it at.

 

THAT'S a good example of how much you need to shake paint before it's ready.

 

Oh, and while you're using it, shake it often too.

 

 

That's been my experience,

Phill

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I was gonna suggest the same thing.

 

Most folks don't realize how LONG you need to shake paint for. If it has a rattle in it, just because the rattle broke loose from the paint at the bottom doesn't mean it's "well shaken".

 

Shake that sucker until yer sick of shaking. Then shake it some more.

 

If you DO NOT have a rattle in the bottle/can, you better be prepared to shake that sucker like you're Michael J. Fox!

 

Ten minutes is the minimum I've always shaken paint.

 

Ya ever been to a paint store and watched a paint can shaker? See how fast that thing shakes? Think about how many times it shakes a can in the five minutes they shake a paint can for......now multiply that by 10 since you're gonna shake it about 10 times slower than that paint can shaker can shake it at.

 

THAT'S a good example of how much you need to shake paint before it's ready.

 

Oh, and while you're using it, shake it often too.

 

 

That's been my experience,

Phill

 

 

Don't think he's pulling his touchup paint out of a paint can... a few minutes will work fine for a little bottle of touchup.

 

It's likely not the correct match. I used to have a similar issue with "Universal Black" touchup paint on my saleen that had a slightly grey tint to it until I switched to the Ford Black or whatever it was (I forget the name).

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Don't think he's pulling his touchup paint out of a paint can... a few minutes will work fine for a little bottle of touchup.

 

 

Every bottle of Factory/OEM touch-up paint I've ever had, had a rattle in it. Having said that, those were all GM products. My Shelby didn't come with a bottle of touch-up paint in the glovebox so I can't speak for Ford.

 

But like I said, most people don't even realize they have rattles in 'em because they don't shake 'em long enough to loosen the rattle from the sediment at the bottom of the bottle.

 

 

Phill

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something else, when i touched up a small edge ding on my door, i noticed it didnt match up 100%.In looking into it,i was reminded that colors vary a slight shade each year,even though its the same paint code,in my case D3.If i park next to a 2009 D3 car,it looks different than mine.So i got the dealer near me to order a new D3 touch up and its fine.If all else fails, ask your dealer,or any dealer who they use for touch up--theyll charge you 100 bucks,and itll look brand new---bob

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Just a quick thing on paint touch up. I don't have any affiliation with these guys just found a product that really works well.

 

http://www.langka.com/

 

Lets you put the paint on evenly with the rest of the paint, and it seals and buffs it in. I find the result much better then Dr. Colorchip.

 

Touched up my wife's escape and it looks fantastic.

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