Oil Change

[Capt500]

I picked up my 2011 a couple weeks ago (black w/ red stripes) and I've enjoyed every mile on the odometer!

 

I'll probably do the first oil change at 1000 miles, even though the owner's manual says it's good for 7500; I figure it's a good idea to change it after the break in.

 

When did you do your first oil change? Also what kind of oil are you running and what filter? I was going to use Mobil 1 with a Motorcraft filter.

 

 

Also, I know it says don't do any wide open throttle the first 100 miles, but I just couldn't help it! Hit redline in 1st gear a couple of times- once around 45 miles and once probably around 65. Any harm done do you think?

[Ash1977]

I would change your oil after 2000 miles. That's when I plan to change mine. I take mine car to the dealer so I have record of it for any warranty work. I would not worry about hitting the redline. The engine protects it self for doing harm if you hit the redline.

 

 

Mark

[mciarochi]

There's been hundreds of posts on the oil, it all comes down to the recommended Full Synthetic Motorcraft or the Castrol 5-50.

 

Stick with the spec in the owners manual. I don't think the "A" or "B" variant makes a lot of difference, they are both recommended for the 5.4L in one car or another. This is a warranty issue, I wouldn't put a different spec in the car. The Castrol goes on sale now and then. Stock up.

 

Use the recommended Ford filters - the 820S or the Ford Racing model. Some of the premium filters filter TOO well and could possibly starve the engine in high power situations. You would only need the racing filter if you do a lot of high-power applications, like drag.

[Torched10]

There's been hundreds of posts on the oil, it all comes down to the recommended Full Synthetic Motorcraft or the Castrol 5-50.

 

Stick with the spec in the owners manual. I don't think the "A" or "B" variant makes a lot of difference, they are both recommended for the 5.4L in one car or another. This is a warranty issue, I wouldn't put a different spec in the car. The Castrol goes on sale now and then. Stock up.

 

Use the recommended Ford filters - the 820S or the Ford Racing model. Some of the premium filters filter TOO well and could possibly starve the engine in high power situations. You would only need the racing filter if you do a lot of high-power applications, like drag.

 

A or B is a huge difference---A has too much zinc phosphate for the catyltic converters--thats why they changed to B, or SM in SAE parlance.Also Im pretty sure Mobil 1 is not a covered oil.Its either Motorcraft or castrol---for me im sticking with the Ford product for the same price.As to when,i did mine at 600 when i started to feel some grit in the oil.I use the 820S filter

[AlloyDropTop]

I would change your oil after 2000 miles. That's when I plan to change mine. I take mine car to the dealer so I have record of it for any warranty work. I would not worry about hitting the redline. The engine protects it self for doing harm if you hit the redline.

 

 

Mark

 

 

Make sure the dealer shows you the 5W50 bottles. If he can't, it isn't 5W50 in the crankcase.

[SVT NAJA]

Make sure the dealer shows you the 5W50 bottles. If he can't, it isn't 5W50 in the crankcase.

 

 

ADT,

 

Excellent point. When I wanted to do my first oil change (@ 750 miles - 1/10th the recommended 1st interval), I stopped by my dealership to get it scheduled and I checked with the service manager about the spec'd oil. Sure enough, it wasn't in stock. They had to order it. Bought a couple of pizzas for the service guys (greasing the wheels so to speak) and saw the empty containers and factory filter when I picked it up. Best part... the service was comp'd and they thru in a detail!

[Lovin It]

I picked up my 2011 a couple weeks ago (black w/ red stripes) and I've enjoyed every mile on the odometer!

 

I'll probably do the first oil change at 1000 miles, even though the owner's manual says it's good for 7500; I figure it's a good idea to change it after the break in.

 

When did you do your first oil change? Also what kind of oil are you running and what filter? I was going to use Mobil 1 with a Motorcraft filter.

 

 

Also, I know it says don't do any wide open throttle the first 100 miles, but I just couldn't help it! Hit redline in 1st gear a couple of times- once around 45 miles and once probably around 65. Any harm done do you think?

 

The first few hundred miles of your new engine's life have a major impact on how strongly it will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last. The main purpose of break-in is to seat the compression rings to the cylinder walls. It's necessary to physically wear the new piston rings into the cylinder wall until a compatible seal between the two is achieved.

 

You did not cause any harm by going to wide open throttle a few times, it's actually necessary to help fully seat the piston rings which is very important. Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased piston ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. Also when followed by rapid deceleration this increases engine vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and rings. Make sure to vary your engine speeds and avoid lugging. Decelerating will also help to seat the non-thrust side of the piston rings and the backlash side of the ring and pinion gears in the differential.

 

The hand built Supercharged Mercedes-Benz SLR leaves the factory filled with Mobil 1 5w-50 oil which is available in the US although it has limited distribution according to the Mobil 1 website.

 

The original factory fill GT500 engine oil is fully synthetic Ford Motorcraft 5w-50 without any break-in additives. It is manufactured and supplied to Ford Motorcraft by Conoco Phillips. The cylinder walls are finished with a honing pattern that requires little to no break-in or seating of the rings. It is for emissions reasons that it is like this more than anything. Gone are the days where the manufacturer is allowed a period for the engine to break-in. The engines in a new factory car are expected to be broken-in and ready to go right off the production line when they drive them out.

 

I changed my 2009 GT500 original engine oil with fresh Synthetic Motorcraft 5w-50 specification "B" and a new Ford Racing M-6731-FL820 oil filter when she had only 21 miles on the odometer. I will be using Roush/Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w-50 oil in the future if it is still available or Mobil 1 5w-50 if it becomes available and the same Ford Racing oil filter.

 

It's always a good idea to replace the original oil because it contains engine assembly lubricant from manufacturing for the initial start up, moisture and metal particles that are undesirable in your new engine.

 

The oil filter is critical to replace since it is going to contain several thousands of particles of metal and coating particulates from the ring/cylinder wall break-in and possibly some core sand with other debris left over from the engine block casting process. Because the oil filter is mounted threaded base end up, choose one that uses a bypass or relief valve located near the threaded base end, not the dome end so as to prevent any circulation of debris trapped in the bottom of the filter dome housing into your engine when the filter goes into bypass mode. You'll notice that both the Ford Racing and Ford Motorcraft oil filters are the only ones that have the base end mounted bypass valve. The Ford Racing brand oil filter has the most total media surface area and is the best that you can get. I hope this information is helpful to you. Here are some oil filter specifications for you to consider:

 

 

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter

Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz

* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"

* Overall Height - 3.99"

* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel

* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)

* Filter Element Height - 2.81"

* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)

* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint

* Depth of pleats - 0.73"

* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)

* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"

* Media thickness - 0.029"

* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.

* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.

* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel

* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"

* Identifying marks

Can - 810050516 / Made in USA

Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8

Label - 6945234

Base - 22 / MM

* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps

* Thread - M22-1.5

* Relief Valve Location - base end

* ADBV Material - Silicon

 

 

Ford Motorcraft FL-820S Oil Filter

Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz

* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can

* Overall Height - 4.05"

* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel

* Filter Element OD - 3.25"

* Filter Element Height - 2.51"

* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)

* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint

* Depth of pleats - 0.68"

* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"

* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"

* Media thickness - 0.035"

* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.

* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.

* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel

* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"

* Indentifying marks

Can - Made in USA

ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150

* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps

* Thread - M22-1.5

* Relief Valve Location - base end

* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

 

 

K&N HP-2010 Oil Filter

Measurements

* Filter Weight - 16.8 oz

* Overall OD - 3.66"

* Overall Height - 4.09" to top of "nut" / 3.71" to top of can

* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel

* Filter Element OD - 3.36"

* Filter Element Height - 2.24"

* Media - Synthetic (appears pink/orange)

* Number of pleats - 55 + 1 joint

* Depth of pleats - 0.72"

* Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"

* Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"

* Media thickness - 0.030"

* Total media surface area - 187 sq. in.

* Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.

* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel

* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"

* Indentifying marks

Can - 072206C1 / Product of USA

ADBV - AAX / 77

Base - ZZ

* Gasket Retention - Press Fit

* Thread - M22 -1.5

* Relief Valve Location - dome end

* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

* Gasket includes lubricant

 

 

Purolator PureOne PL24651 Oil Filter

Measurements

* Filter Weight - 12.6 oz

* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can

* Overall Height - 3.77"

* Can Material - 0.014" thick steel

* Filter Element OD - 3.25"

* Filter Element Height - 2.65"

* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)

* Number of pleats - 60 + 1 joint

* Depth of pleats - 0.68"

* Media length (unrolled) - 91.5"

* Media width (glue not included) - 2.56"

* Media thickness - 0.030"

* Total media surface area - 234 sq. in.

* Total media volume - 7.0 cu. in.

* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel

* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.72"

* Indentifying marks

Can - F07518G2 / Made in USA

ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 104

* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps

* Gasket includes teflon

* Thread - M22-1.5

* Relief Valve Location - dome end

* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

[Capt500]

Lovin It-

 

Thanks for the post- seems like some good info you have there and I will certainly take it into consideration. Maybe I will change the oil a little sooner than planned.

[jsarkis]

I changed mine 1st at 1k, then at 2500, now I plan on about 3500 miles per change, it's my toy not a dd. I agree with the rest of the replys on the type of oil and filter.

 

As far as breaking it in I agree with Lovin It, your fine as long as you don't drive at a constant speed for long periods of time with in the first few hundred miles. Ford has a fairly low rev limiter on these (it's right at max power go figure) so no chance you'll hurt the engine by hitting the limiter early on. Most of us hit the limiter learning how to drive the car, 1st is soo short how can you not hit the limiter the 1st couple wots? Enjoy your new ride.