MattR Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I took delivery of my 2011 Shelby without any dealer prep. So my rear plate was not mounted. Is there an insert in the rear bumber of your cars or are the screws just going through the plactic? It should be easy, the bumper has two little divits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpevin Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I took delivery of my 2011 Shelby without any dealer prep. So my rear plate was not mounted. Is there an insert in the rear bumber of your cars or are the screws just going through the plactic? It should be easy, the bumper has two little divits. The black screws are self tapping (with a drill/driver), there are two divots in the bumper cover and two divots in the lower valance, some use the upper two screws only but I used all four. there are no inserts, its screwed right in, just go slow, I let the driver start the screws and go about 3/4 of the way in and do the rest by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axo250 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 You have to drill through the plastic and the factory supplied screws just hold into the plastic no inserts behind the holes. I opted to drill 3/16" holes and put #8 plastic wall anchors in. I then got some small plastic sleeves (about 7/16" OD) to stand the plate a bit off the car (a little under a 1/4"). Then I ran #8 by 1" screws through the setup with a small washer on the outside. It turned out well. Plate is sturdy and looks clean. Btw, the plastic inserts sit on the anchor outer sleeves so there is minimal contact with the car. I got my hardware from the local Ace Hardware. Cost about 4 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbarnet Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 You have to drill through the plastic and the factory supplied screws just hold into the plastic no inserts behind the holes. I opted to drill 3/16" holes and put #8 plastic wall anchors in. I then got some small plastic sleeves (about 7/16" OD) to stand the plate a bit off the car (a little under a 1/4"). Then I ran #8 by 1" screws through the setup with a small washer on the outside. It turned out well. Plate is sturdy and looks clean. Btw, the plastic inserts sit on the anchor outer sleeves so there is minimal contact with the car. I got my hardware from the local Ace Hardware. Cost about 4 bucks. Can you take a picture? My rear plate was also not drilled and I like what you are suggesting. Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattR Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Thanks guys. I was pretty sure thats how is was done, but my other cars all have had a white insert installed and the dealers have always put the plates on. Project for tonight is to get the tape off my back window and get my new plate installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpenziner Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I took delivery of my 2011 Shelby without any dealer prep. So my rear plate was not mounted. Is there an insert in the rear bumber of your cars or are the screws just going through the plactic? It should be easy, the bumper has two little divits. I didnt want to put holes in my rear bumper, so I used Velcro on the entire back part of the lic. plate and a few strips the rear of the car, it holds like a champ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axo250 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Can you take a picture? My rear plate was also not drilled and I like what you are suggesting. Mitch I can take a picture of the final product if you like. Honestly I don't feel like taking it apart to take pictures of the spacers. Just let me know. I'll be more than happy to explain anything you may have questions about. I think you would be pleased with the result. I'm a really bad perfectionist, and I'm happy with the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbarnet Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I can take a picture of the final product if you like. Honestly I don't feel like taking it apart to take pictures of the spacers. Just let me know. I'll be more than happy to explain anything you may have questions about. I think you would be pleased with the result. I'm a really bad perfectionist, and I'm happy with the results. I completely understand, I think if you take a pic of the end result I could follow along. We have a local ACE so I should be able to find all the parts that you used. Thanks, Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hpfisterer Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Interesting subject. I wasn't paying attention and the dealer just used the scews, self tapping. After a few days I noted the plate was not level. To level it I had to file one of the holes on the plate. Looks fine now. You definatly want to drill a pilot hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hpfisterer Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Interesting subject. I wasn't paying attention and the dealer just used the screws when he mounted my temp tag, self tapping. When I got the perm tag moounted I noted the plate was not level, holes did not match up. To level it I had to file one of the holes on the plate. Looks fine now. You definatly want to drill a pilot hole. Personally, I can't belive Ford does't add steel sleeves to mount the plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axo250 Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 MJ- haven't had a chance to take any pics. I will on Saturday and make a quick diagram for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axo250 Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Alrighty. The pictures are attached along with a 'rough drawing'. I'm not sure how much experience you have with getting bolts/screws/etc from Ace Hardware, but just about every Ace is different in regards to their selection. My suggestion is to take your tag (or a tag from another vehicle) in to do a mockup before buying parts. I don't recall exact sizes for mine. However I wasn't able to get parts as if I ordered them from McMaster Carr. In other words, it isn't perfect. However it still went together very well. TIPS: 1) I used two round plastic spacers. The spacers I bought were about 3/16"-1/4" thick. I tried it with just one spacer for the backside along with a very thin plastic washer and wasn't pleased with the minimal tag-vehicle clearance. I went back and put in an additional spacer behind the plate (total of ~1/2") and you see the results. The tag doesn't touch anywhere not does it look stood off too far. 2) You may be able to absorb the extra spacer with varying the backside washer size. 3) The backside washer made a nice interface between spacer and plate. 4) The spacers I found were solid with ~#8 holes punched through so no washer was needed to seat against wall anchor's outer lip. 5) Bit size for drilling #8 wall anchors is 3/16". In drywall that works fine. I had to go one bit size larger (13/64") for the anchor to slip into the plastic. They should slide in with a little bit of force but don't use a hammer. Lesson Learned: Plastic doesn't give like drywall. 6) ***Work your way up to the final drill bit size starting with the smallest bit in the box! I think I used 5 bits in all. (I'm a little bit of a perfectionist and super careful.)*** Feel free to post any questions that you may have. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbarnet Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Alrighty. The pictures are attached along with a 'rough drawing'. I'm not sure how much experience you have with getting bolts/screws/etc from Ace Hardware, but just about every Ace is different in regards to their selection. My suggestion is to take your tag (or a tag from another vehicle) in to do a mockup before buying parts. I don't recall exact sizes for mine. However I wasn't able to get parts as if I ordered them from McMaster Carr. In other words, it isn't perfect. However it still went together very well. TIPS: 1) I used two round plastic spacers. The spacers I bought were about 3/16"-1/4" thick. I tried it with just one spacer for the backside along with a very thin plastic washer and wasn't pleased with the minimal tag-vehicle clearance. I went back and put in an additional spacer behind the plate (total of ~1/2") and you see the results. The tag doesn't touch anywhere not does it look stood off too far. 2) You may be able to absorb the extra spacer with varying the backside washer size. 3) The backside washer made a nice interface between spacer and plate. 4) The spacers I found were solid with ~#8 holes punched through so no washer was needed to seat against wall anchor's outer lip. 5) Bit size for drilling #8 wall anchors is 3/16". In drywall that works fine. I had to go one bit size larger (13/64") for the anchor to slip into the plastic. They should slide in with a little bit of force but don't use a hammer. Lesson Learned: Plastic doesn't give like drywall. 6) ***Work your way up to the final drill bit size starting with the smallest bit in the box! I think I used 5 bits in all. (I'm a little bit of a perfectionist and super careful.)*** Feel free to post any questions that you may have. Hope this helps! Thanks for the detailed write up and photos...very clean and OEM looking install. I've got my list to take to ACE on Saturday. Thanks again! Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axo250 Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Not a problem. Thanks for the compliments on the install. Good luck with making yours look good too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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