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Trailering the GT500


VaporDude

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I am picking up an open trailer to put the Shelby on when going to car shows. It has a wood floor and I will need to put on some tie down points. The Shelby is lowered so I have to extend the ramps so I don't drag anything. I was hoping someone can give me some pointers on where on the Shelby is the best tie down points. That will help me decide on where to place the tie downs.

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You want the tie downs as far out as possible so you are not trying to ratchet them under the car.

 

In the back just wrap around the axle, in the front you can wrap around the control arm, the wheel works too but i would not want to scuff the clearcoat over a long drive.

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You want the tie downs as far out as possible so you are not trying to ratchet them under the car.

 

In the back just wrap around the axle, in the front you can wrap around the control arm, the wheel works too but i would not want to scuff the clearcoat over a long drive.

 

 

My car is lowered, I was worried about the straps rubbing against the chin spoiler.

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Hey VaporDude the only way to go is E-Track since you can strap down the tires and the car will not move at all. No worries about scuffing anything. I installed mine myself just make sure to screw it into the trailers frame. I bought this one because it was a great price and high load rating E track Car Tie Down Strap (Ring Style) and used this track E Track Vertical - Galvanized - 5' Sections

 

I had some existing loops in the back so I bought some extra hooks for my ratchets as well.

 

tirestrapes.jpg

 

I hauled the car for WA to Vegas for the bash and the car didn't move at all. Here are some pics of my setup.

 

DSC_0351.jpg

 

DSC_0350.jpg

 

DSC_0354.jpg

 

DSC_0353.jpg

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You want the tie downs as far out as possible so you are not trying to ratchet them under the car.

 

In the back just wrap around the axle, in the front you can wrap around the control arm, the wheel works too but i would not want to scuff the clearcoat over a long drive.

 

 

Stock wheels have a nasty lip on them that will wear down a strap and then snap it. I've had it happen.

 

These straps work well with an open trailer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160393508677&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33653

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My car is lowered, I was worried about the straps rubbing against the chin spoiler.

 

You wont rub, I tow mine alot, and my car is probably lower than yours. The straps rest against the front lip, and I go through the control arms. Just take a piece of card board and put them between the lip and strap. Or just do the etrack system.

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When i had the stock rear end, i used the axle straps, but i didnt like them because they seemed to always get a little loose after a few hours of hauling my car, and the sway/panhard bar was kinda in the way.

 

The 9" rear that i have now, has relocation brackets with holes on two sides, so i am able to use my flat snap hook. No need for axle straps nothing in the way, no more getting loose, and i believe, being that is further out towards the sides of the car, it holds it better.

 

For the front, there are hooking points from the factory. If you look next to the fender liner, you will see them. Its a sloted hole, so you would need the flat snap hooks to use it.

 

Also what i do is, after i have all the straps hooked up loose, i put the car in nutral, take off the E brake, ratchet everything tight, and then put the E brake on and put the car in gear.

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I noticed that many of you strap the car down by the axles. I thought you needed to strap it down by the frame to keep it from bouncing. Is this not the case?

 

 

That's what you want, let the car's suspension do it's job. If you can afford it I would get an enclosed trailer.

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Goes in with the top down, get out and uses a remote to put it back up. :hysterical:

 

 

That's about right. I can't fully open/close the top in the trailer but I just load the car then open the top enough to just step out. Then reach in and close the top. Piece of cake with a vert. I don't have to pull a duke's of hazard exit like you coupe owners. :lol:

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I strap the front by looping the control arm, strap the rear by looping the axle. Remember to always cross the rears to keep the rear end from moving from side to side.

Oh, and I use the Dukes of Hazard way to get in in out. It is easier with my enclosed trailer because I can just leave the window down. When hauling in the open trailer gotta crack the door open to roll up the window, and it is a PIA.

 

 

Chris

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Lots of good info here on the trailer, but I am wondering if my truck is adequate to pull a trailer, especially an enclosed trailer, loaded with the Shelby and other miscellaneous stuff. My truck is a 2000 Silverado 1/2 ton with a 5.3L engine and automatic transmission. I believe the towing capacity is 8000 lbs. Is there anything special I would need to do to pull a trailer safely and securely?

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Lots of good info here on the trailer, but I am wondering if my truck is adequate to pull a trailer, especially an enclosed trailer, loaded with the Shelby and other miscellaneous stuff. My truck is a 2000 Silverado 1/2 ton with a 5.3L engine and automatic transmission. I believe the towing capacity is 8000 lbs. Is there anything special I would need to do to pull a trailer safely and securely?

 

 

I wouldn't buy any enclosed trailer rated under 10,000 GVW especially if you want to haul tools, generator etc. along with the car. In that case I would recommend a 3/4 ton tow vehicle rated to pull 10,000-12,500 #'s. A 1/2 ton truck just won't cut it!!

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I am picking up an open trailer to put the Shelby on when going to car shows. It has a wood floor and I will need to put on some tie down points. The Shelby is lowered so I have to extend the ramps so I don't drag anything. I was hoping someone can give me some pointers on where on the Shelby is the best tie down points. That will help me decide on where to place the tie downs.

 

 

 

 

I have a set of these trailer ramps, they work great.

Trailer Ramps

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I wouldn't buy any enclosed trailer rated under 10,000 GVW especially if you want to haul tools, generator etc. along with the car. In that case I would recommend a 3/4 ton tow vehicle rated to pull 10,000-12,500 #'s. A 1/2 ton truck just won't cut it!!

 

 

My 24' enclosed trailer with the car loaded is 8,000 pounds. You would be right at the limit pulling my setup so I agree with 08 ORANGE SS that a 3/4 ton would be in order. You will also want a load distribution hitch. This is required for my hitch to pull this much weight.

 

This is the one I installed and it has sway control as well.

 

DSC_0349.jpg

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I have a set of these trailer ramps, they work great.

Trailer Ramps

 

 

I was just looking at these. They look like they would be just what I need instead of trying to extend the ones I have. Thanks for all the replies. There is some really good information here. I bought a weight distribution hitch for mine so there shouldn't be any problems towing the trailer. For the one that can't get out of his car in the open trailer, add a pair of 2x12's to the deck. It will raise the car enough so you can open the door all the way. I measures the bottom of my door with me in the car. The back of the door is at 9.5 inches and the front looks like it is 8.5 inches. From the deck of the trailer to the top of the fender is 9 inches. So if I add a 2x12 to the deck, it would raise the car enough to open the door fully.

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I tie down from the front control arms with no problems. I am having an issue with rubbing on rear straps. If you don't cross them the passenger side works its way to the panhard brace and it will saw right through (been there done that). I do cross mine and still get rubbing on the differential. I get two or three trips on a strap and it's fraying to the point where I'm worried about it and replace it. I have a Griggs Watts link so I have to go between the arms on the driver side and under on the pass side. It might be the Watts link cover that's causing it, but it's not a sharp edge. Anyone find an alternate place to tie down from the rear of the car without using e-track? I have an open trailer.

 

post-6227-127965689512_thumb.jpg

post-6227-127965689512_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is an update:

 

Got the trailer, found out that to get the door open, I would have to raise the car. I bought two presure treated 2"x12"x14' and screwed them on to the floor of the trailer. I didn't like the tie down points so I bought some D ring's and anchors. These were bolted to the floor with a piece of steel on the underside to give it more strength. I bought 4 axle straps with the rachets. I place the front axle straps around the lower control arm and crossed them. I had to cross them because the tie downs were too close to the front of the car. For the rears, I put the axle straps through the wheel openings and crossed them. It is very hard to get the straps over the axle to tie down. I don't think the car is going anywhere. I also bought a pair of Race Ramps to I didn't need to extend the original 4' ramps. They work really slick. They are about 54" long and taper to a height of 8". The original ramps sit right on top of the race ramps so I have almost 9' of ramp combined. The race ramps are really light and works very well.

 

Thanks for all your input and I have learned a lot about towing a car. My next project is to make a storage box that will fit on the tongue of the trailer so I can put the ramps and all the towing gear in it and lock it up.

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