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Gentex Homelink Mirror Install... Pics


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I installed the Gentex Auto Dimming Mirror with Homelink, Compass, and Temperature Display- (Model 50-GENK51A). I purchased the mirror at: http://www.brandnewauto.com/AUTO-DIMMING-MIRRORS/GENTEX/GENTEX-AUTO-DIMMING-MIRROR-p6053597.html, which included the temperature sensor, wiring harness, and bonus wire cover.

 

Steps for installation are as followed:

 

1) Remove the OEM mirror from the windshield mount button. Sound simple, but it’s not. I tried to use the Ford Mirror Removal Tool (as pictured) without success. I also tried an array of small screwdrivers with the same results. The metal spring clips were extremely tight and I feared that I would crack the windshield with continued force. I decided to take the car to a windshield replacement shop... strike 2. Next stop was the local Ford dealership... strike 3. Nobody was able to remove the mirror. Already in possession of the new Gentex mirror, I really wanted the OEM mirror off... with the windshield intact. Ultimately, a service tech recommended a “specialist”, who they call in to perform such tasks. Back to the Ford dealership for one last try. Bingo... and 20 well spent dollars! NOTE: Some have had no problems with the mirror removal, while others experienced cracked windshield. Exercise caution.

 

2) Jack up the car (using appropriate jack points) and remove the passenger side front wheel to access the fender liner. Remove the liner, which is held in place my 4 Philips head plastic push pins, to expose the rubber radio antenna grommet (as pictured).

 

3) Locate a suitable place to clip the temperature sensor. I originally installed the sensor underneath the radiator cover (as pictured), but the area was not be feasible due to heat soaked. I ultimately clipped the sensor on the splitter toward the passenger side near the wheel well. NOTE: This new location has provided accurate temperature readings.

 

4) Fish the wire through the passenger side of the engine bay and down a small hole against the firewall behind the battery. Be aware of excessive heat sources when running the cable. Stay near the passenger fender area to be safe. Once the sensor wiring is fed down into the wheel well, fish it through the rubber antenna grommet (as pictured).

 

5) From the interior, pull the wire though the rubber antenna grommet. Open the glove box (push in the sides of the glove box to hyperextend) for better accessibility. NOTE: Add some caulking to the rubber grommet (exterior) to prevent any water from entering the cabin.

 

 

6) Remove the A-Pillar molding, passenger side kick panel, and map light housing. All three just clip in place and are easily removed by grasping the panels with your hands and pulling outward, or downward as applicable.

 

7) Guide the sensor wiring behind the glove box area, up the A-Pillar, tuck behind the head liner, and pull down through the map light cut-out. Connect the two sensor wires to the mirror plug (Included wiring instructions will provide details- link provided below).

 

8) Plug the harness into the back of the mirror and slip the mirror onto the windshield mount button. A #20 Torx screw will hold it in place. Clip the wire cover to the mirror and extend it to the head liner (as pictured).

 

9) Run the mirror wiring under the head liner, down the A-Pillar, and behind the glove box area. Cut off the attached wire connectors (NOT the ground connector) and connect the Buss Fuses/Mini-Add-A-Line (as pictured), or equivalent. This will enable you to plug the connectors directly into the fuse box, which is located behind the passenger side kick panel. Plug the black and white wire into open slot #5 (ignition-on), and the black wire to open slot #9 (ignition-off). Attached the ground wire to the dash frame bolt in the door opening (as pictured- upper right hand corner), or some other grounding location.

 

10) Re-attach all of the panels, as well as the map light housing.

 

11) You’re now ready to program the mirror (included instructions will provide details- link provided below).

 

Here is a link to the Gentex mirror instruction (wiring, programing, etc.): http://shop.autodimmingmirrors.com/images/Installation%20instructions%20for%20all%20mirrors.pdf

 

Project took about 2 ½ hours- once the OEM mirror was removed. I’m very happy with the mirror and all of its features. Fitment and finish are OEM quality. I highly recommend this mod. Good luck.

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Edited by SteelTownStang
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I installed one of these last year. My Shelby had a dimming mirror with compass from the factory, so I only had to run the sensor wire and plug it into the correct hole in the factory plug at the mirror. This also has the advantage of Fords wiring that turns off the dimming feature when the car is in reverse, which works with the Gentex mirrors.

 

I hate to say this but I ended up cutting the spring clip off my factory mirror with a Dremel flex shaft cutter. I had gone through this once before on another Mustang and knew the layout of the clip. This is NOT the recommended way to remove the factory mirror. I did slightly pit the windshield doing this. :censored:

 

I like the way you ran the sensor wire. I may have to re-run mine that way.

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I installed one of these last year. My Shelby had a dimming mirror with compass from the factory, so I only had to run the sensor wire and plug it into the correct hole in the factory plug at the mirror. This also has the advantage of Fords wiring that turns off the dimming feature when the car is in reverse, which works with the Gentex mirrors.

 

I hate to say this but I ended up cutting the spring clip off my factory mirror with a Dremel flex shaft cutter. I had gone through this once before on another Mustang and knew the layout of the clip. This is NOT the recommended way to remove the factory mirror. I did slightly pit the windshield doing this. :censored:

 

I like the way you ran the sensor wire. I may have to re-run mine that way.

 

 

I thought of the Dremel idea as a last resort, which I was almost there... I'm not sure what you mean by using the factory plug. I too had the auto dimming mirror with the compass, however, the plug/port is different on the Gentex mirror. The OEM mirror has a rectangular plug/port, whereas the Gentex mirror has a square plug/port. Maybe it's a newer design...

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I thought of the Dremel idea as a last resort, which I was almost there... I'm not sure what you mean by using the factory plug. I too had the auto dimming mirror with the compass, however, the plug/port is different on the Gentex mirror. The OEM mirror has a rectangular plug/port, whereas the Gentex mirror has a square plug/port. Maybe it's a newer design...

 

 

 

I think the difference is I used the 21A mirror which doesn't have homelink. Mine is just compass and temp.

.

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I think the difference is I used the 21A mirror which doesn't have homelink. Mine is just compass and temp.

.

 

 

Yeah, the 51A has a different harness.... So you did the swap for just the temp? Ford went to the trouble of installing an auto dimming mirror w compass, why not just include the temp as well? Cheap!

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See also here.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26273-electrochromic-self-dimming-mirror-installation

 

Does yours vibrate? I returned the original because it wobbled around. The second one did the same thing. It's annoying. The one I put on my truck uses a torx screw instead of the springs to make the connection and doesn't move at all.

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See also here.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26273-electrochromic-self-dimming-mirror-installation

 

Does yours vibrate? I returned the original because it wobbled around. The second one did the same thing. It's annoying. The one I put on my truck uses a torx screw instead of the springs to make the connection and doesn't move at all.

 

 

Mine has the torx screw as well. The mirror is very secured with no movement at all...

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NOTE: I had to relocate the sensor again... heat soak. I moved it to the bottom grill area. I had to pull some wire slack through the firewall and this time all I did was turn the wheels to the left and the wheel well liner was easily removed. You do NOT have to jack the car up and remove the wheel to access the rubber antenna grommet. This step alone will cut some install time from the project.

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