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Anyone Tuning the 2011 GT500's yet?????


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TS member "the seeker" has looked into this, and has found that no one has a tune ready for sale yet. The're close, but not yet.

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http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-computer-sct-c-8485_10235_10237

 

Tuning support is out there for the 2011 GT500. I'm not sure if Lund is doing the 2011 Lethal tunes or not.

 

Justin at VMP is also another good GT500 choice.

 

http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?

Edited by bpmurr
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http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-computer-sct-c-8485_10235_10237

 

Tuning support is out there for the 2011 GT500. I'm not sure if Lund is doing the 2011 Lethal tunes or not.

 

Justin at VMP is also another good GT500 choice.

 

http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?

 

 

FWIW, FRPP told me today that they felt confident that aftermarket tuning for the GT500 was a thing of the past as they 2011 ECU is very complex compared to the 2010.

 

Just their opinion I guess.

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FWIW, FRPP told me today that they felt confident that aftermarket tuning for the GT500 was a thing of the past as they 2011 ECU is very complex compared to the 2010.

 

Just their opinion I guess.

 

Did they say anything about 2011 GT500 power and suspension packs availability? Last time I called the guy I talked to said check back monthly....

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Nothing official from Ford at this point. I have been told by FR that "a blower and a tune will be announced by late August." Trust me, I am seeking as fast as I can!

 

R

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Did they say anything about 2011 GT500 power and suspension packs availability? Last time I called the guy I talked to said check back monthly....

 

 

I personally think the GT500 is pretty sick as it sits. 500whp is about average from what I have seen on the dyno. If they could lower the car beyond the SVT package by about 1 to 1.25" all around, it would be perfect. A MILD lowering-kit is all that is needed, imho (although the Supercharger upgrade is neat...)

 

For a 1-1.25" drop, would anything need to be altered (pinion angle, CC plates, etc.)? I didn't see an adj. panhard or CC plates in the FRPP kit for the 2010, so I would presume no?

Edited by JWG223
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FWIW, FRPP told me today that they felt confident that aftermarket tuning for the GT500 was a thing of the past as they 2011 ECU is very complex compared to the 2010.

 

Just their opinion I guess.

 

 

That's not the first time they've said that about a Mustang.

 

I highly doubt the ECU will adapt on the fly to any mod you've put on the car getting the most out of it.

 

I personally think the GT500 is pretty sick as it sits. 500whp is about average from what I have seen on the dyno. If they could lower the car beyond the SVT package by about 1 to 1.25" all around, it would be perfect. A MILD lowering-kit is all that is needed, imho (although the Supercharger upgrade is neat...)

 

For a 1-1.25" drop, would anything need to be altered (pinion angle, CC plates, etc.)? I didn't see an adj. panhard or CC plates in the FRPP kit for the 2010, so I would presume no?

 

 

When I put the FRPP springs on my car it required an alignment but no cc plates. They were able to bring it up to spec using the stock components.

Edited by bpmurr
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That's not the first time they've said that about a Mustang.

 

I highly doubt the ECU will adapt on the fly to any mod you've put on the car getting the most out of it.

 

 

 

When I put the FRPP springs on my car it required an alignment but no cc plates. They were able to bring it up to spec using the stock components.

 

 

GOod info! Did you notice that it was more burn-out prone? My friend's 430whp GTO seemed like it spun more once he lowered it.

Edited by JWG223
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I haven't seen any 2011 GT500 tuning announcements from the vendors. I know Evolution got their 2011 Shelby a few weeks ago, but haven't posted anything about it. Just 5.0 blah, blah, blah... More money selling 5.0 tunes, I guess. :shrug:

 

They'll need to work the tunes for the new 5.0 - seems like anything over 4-5 lbs boost on that high-compression (11.5/1) motor will blow it up...

:hysterical:

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GOod info! Did you notice that it was more burn-out prone? My friend's 430whp GTO seemed like it spun more once he lowered it.

 

have no personal knowledge here, but from an engineering sense it makes sense.If you lower the car,therell be less weight transfer to the rear wheels beacuse of the lowered height of the car, less torque transfer. Thats why many older drag cars would put in worn out springs in the front, so whn you popped the clutch all the weight from the front went to the back

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My car (2011 vert) goes in tomorrow (dealer is installing) for the FR3 Handling Pack install. I talked to the guys at SVT and they said it should be no problem installing. Will lower the car 1.25". I've already captured all stock height measurements (bottom of fenders, bottom of front clip, bottom of rear) so I'll know for sure by how much she gets lowered. Also installing Shelby ADJ Panhard bar and Shelby Caster/Camber plates at the same time, along with an alignment. While she's in, dealer is also installing Shelby/Baer Extremes in the front (black w/ red lettering), Baer rotors in the rear and the Alcoa's. Can't wait to see it tomorrow after work happy%20feet.gif

 

I also have the FRPP 65mm TB to install. My dealer is working with another dealer (close friends) who has a dyno about installing the TB, tuning and dyno. They say they can do it, just working out the pricing. Ideally, we'll do a stock dyno, install the TB and tune and then dyno again. Hoping to get this done next weekend (July 17), depends on schedules. I'll be sure to post results.

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GOod info! Did you notice that it was more burn-out prone? My friend's 430whp GTO seemed like it spun more once he lowered it.

 

 

No, it seemed to be about the same. The biggest thing for me is when I switched from the stock Goodyears to the Hankooks. The car hooked up much better. However, after the pulley swap I was back to burning out again with the Hankooks.

Edited by bpmurr
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My car (2011 vert) goes in tomorrow (dealer is installing) for the FR3 Handling Pack install. I talked to the guys at SVT and they said it should be no problem installing. Will lower the car 1.25". I've already captured all stock height measurements (bottom of fenders, bottom of front clip, bottom of rear) so I'll know for sure by how much she gets lowered. Also installing Shelby ADJ Panhard bar and Shelby Caster/Camber plates at the same time, along with an alignment. While she's in, dealer is also installing Shelby/Baer Extremes in the front (black w/ red lettering), Baer rotors in the rear and the Alcoa's. Can't wait to see it tomorrow after work happy%20feet.gif

 

I also have the FRPP 65mm TB to install. My dealer is working with another dealer (close friends) who has a dyno about installing the TB, tuning and dyno. They say they can do it, just working out the pricing. Ideally, we'll do a stock dyno, install the TB and tune and then dyno again. Hoping to get this done next weekend (July 17), depends on schedules. I'll be sure to post results.

 

 

How does one talk to the guys at SVT? I would love to talk to one of them about my clutch issue. :)

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2010 springs on a 2011? You do understand the 2011 has 100# less on the snout, yes? I want numbers to see if it sits all funny like a 5.0 with worn-out springs.

 

SVT said it wouldn't?

 

*awaiting*

 

PS. Does it NEED the panhard bar and all that stuff, or are you upgrading those items because you want to, and not because a 1.25" drop necessitates it?

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2010 springs on a 2011? You do understand the 2011 has 100# less on the snout, yes? I want numbers to see if it sits all funny like a 5.0 with worn-out springs.

 

SVT said it wouldn't?

 

*awaiting*

 

PS. Does it NEED the panhard bar and all that stuff, or are you upgrading those items because you want to, and not because a 1.25" drop necessitates it?

 

Very interested in the results!

 

The Ford Racing packs are theoretically complete. They do not include a panhard bar and lower the standard 2010 GT500 ~1.25".

http://www.fordracingparts.com/mustang/PerformancePacks.asp

 

According to one of the review articles the standard (non-svt package) springs are unchanged from 2010 - 2011. So either Ford gave up optimizing the non-svt or simply determined that given the spring rates and vehilce weight ,100 lbs was in the noise of all the other variables involved. (driver weight range, how many passengers, manufacturing tolerances, how much fuel, heading to or from the grocery store, etc.)

Edited by rhlgt500
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Very interested in the results!

 

The Ford Racing packs are theoretically complete. They do not include a panhard bar and lower the standard 2010 GT500 ~1.25".

http://www.fordracingparts.com/mustang/PerformancePacks.asp

 

According to one of the review articles the standard (non-svt package) springs are unchanged from 2010 - 2011. So either Ford gave up optimizing the non-svt or simply determined that given the spring rates and vehilce weight ,100 lbs was in the noise of all the other variables involved. (driver weight range, how many passengers, manufacturing tolerances, how much fuel, heading to or from the grocery store, etc.)

 

 

57/43 to 56/44.

 

1%

 

I suppose 1% is within the factory tolerances for the spring.

 

You might have nailed this. If so, win!

 

Please post the before/after measurements for the drop. I am interested! Also, a review of handling, feel, and gain/loss in traction during "spirited 1st gear acceleration" would be totally full of win!

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While probably not required for stock wheels/tires, if you where trying to eak out every last 1/8 inch of clearance for the widest possible tires, an adjustble panhard rod would be handy. Particularly after lowering the car.

 

 

Would the car look funny without it on a 1.25" drop? Would handling actually be reduced without it? ALso, sorry to be an idiot, but how do you adjust a panhard bar? Trial/error, or is there a technical way to measure once, cut once, so to speak, when installing it?

 

If one chose NOT to install an adj. one, would the suspension be in any kind of bind or imbalance, or would you just lose 1/8" clearance on one side (is that 1/8 literal fopr a 1.25" drop, or figurative?)

Edited by JWG223
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Would the car look funny without it on a 1.25" drop? Would handling actually be reduced without it? ALso, sorry to be an idiot, but how do you adjust a panhard bar? Trial/error, or is there a technical way to measure once, cut once, so to speak, when installing it?

 

If one chose NOT to install an adj. one, would the suspension be in any kind of bind or imbalance, or would you just lose 1/8" clearance on one side (is that 1/8 literal fopr a 1.25" drop, or figurative?)

 

Figurative, but likely close. The Panhard rod measures slightly less than 42 inches bolt center to bolt center. Parked, one side slightly lower due to the pad slope, mine dropped about 1" from the frame to the axle end. So the Ford racing spings vs the SVT package would level the rod out and give me a true 42" vs something like the orignal 41.98 horizonal distance I computed using what little I remember from high school trig. Yeah, this is all naive as the axle movement is controlled by 3 other links in addition to the Panhard rod and at the extreme the bump stops and brushing compression come into play and the whole axle/wheel assembly could be rotated making clearance calc's much more interesting than the static, level case. But I can see why Ford Racing didn't feel the need to include a panhard rod in their kit.

 

(I don't have a lift, nor was I willing to disassemble anything to make measurements, I'm sure my numbers are way off, but I just wanted a ball park answer for myself as i am interested in Ford Racing suspension.)

Edited by rhlgt500
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Figurative, but likely close. The Panhard rod measures slightly less than 42 inches bolt center to bolt center. Parked, one side slightly lower due to the pad slope, mine dropped about 1" from the frame to the axle end. So the Ford racing spings vs the SVT package would level the rod out and give me a true 42" vs something like the orignal 41.98 horizonal distance I computed using what little I remember from high school trig. Yeah, this is all naive as the axle movement is controlled by 3 other links in addition to the Panhard rod and at the extreme the bump stops and brushing compression come into play and the whole axle/wheel assembly could be rotated making clearance calc's much more interesting than the static, level case. But I can see why Ford Racing didn't feel the need to include a panhard rod in their kit.

 

(I don't have a lift, nor was I willing to disassemble anything to make measurements, I'm sure my numbers are way off, but I just wanted a ball park answer for myself as i am interested in Ford Racing suspension.)

 

 

Gotcha, I just was wondering if lowering 1.25" the car might be counter-productive handling-wise without it. Seems like it would benefit more than it hurt.

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You will know if you need the adj P/B after you lower it and it's on the ground. If your rear has kicked over to driver's side and it bothers you to look at it, you NEED the adj P/B. If it doesn't bother you, then you are fine I guess. But.....an adj. bar isn't all that expensive and really easy to center axle. Easy to install also, so really no reason not to get one to center rear. The rear looks funny sitting to one side, even if it is only 1/8". Just my opinion though, it may not bother you.

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You will know if you need the adj P/B after you lower it and it's on the ground. If your rear has kicked over to driver's side and it bothers you to look at it, you NEED the adj P/B. If it doesn't bother you, then you are fine I guess. But.....an adj. bar isn't all that expensive and really easy to center axle. Easy to install also, so really no reason not to get one to center rear. The rear looks funny sitting to one side, even if it is only 1/8". Just my opinion though, it may not bother you.

 

 

Not centered would bother me, so that's why I'm putting one on. My car has only 158 miles on it, 15 when it came in so I've only driven 143, so I have not had an opportunity to get a good feel for the stock suspension. Not sure how well I'll be able to report the differences, but I'll give it a shot. Ride height difference will be easy to show. Will absolutley post pics when she's done, either today or tomorrow. Will most likely start a new thread, I'll name it so it will be easy to find it.

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ALso, sorry to be an idiot, but how do you adjust a panhard bar? Trial/error, or is there a technical way to measure once, cut once, so to speak, when installing it?

 

 

 

 

Tape string to the top, center of the fender on both sides with a weight tied to the bottom to keep the string straight. Measure from string to wheel, when the measurement is the same on both sides, it's centered. The bar itself is turned counter or clockwise to move one direction or the other. Pretty easy really.

Here are some instructions. This is not the same panhard bar I have, but the process is the same.

 

Adjustable Panhard Bar Install.doc

Adjustable Panhard Bar Install.doc

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Tape string to the top, center of the fender on both sides with a weight tied to the bottom to keep the string straight. Measure from string to wheel, when the measurement is the same on both sides, it's centered. The bar itself is turned counter or clockwise to move one direction or the other. Pretty easy really.

Here are some instructions. This is not the same panhard bar I have, but the process is the same.

 

Adjustable Panhard Bar Install.doc

 

TY!

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Sorry Guys. The mechanic working on my car got backed-up on a previous job, so he did not work on my car yesterday. I did get the TPMS sensors and Hankooks mounted on the Alcoa's though. They look awesome!!! The mechaninc said he'd start on my car first thing this morning, so I'll pick it up today after work. I'll post pics tonight or tomorrow.

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