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?s for those of you that had alignments with aftermarket rims


venom

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I need to get an alignment after installing the standard Ford FRPP springs.

 

My car is also wearing 20" custom Trueforged polished aluminum wheels. (305/30/20 rear, 255/30/20 front)

 

Question. I asked the mechanic at the alignment shop if he had the proper hardware to mate to the 20" custom aluminum rims. I know that many of the machines cannot do alignments on custom rims like these.

 

The mechanic said that the hardware attaching to the rims was metal. I asked if that would scratch the rims. He replied NO, but said that he would need to deflate the tires to put the equipment on.

 

Does this sound right? I jujst can't afford to have any damage to the rims!

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not too sure venom, the shop that I used here in Atlanta, Butler Tire, had some sort of plastic on the ends so they wouldn't leave any marks on the rims

 

 

Thanks 08.

 

Well I just got back from the shop that said they could do it. 1.5 hours into and they tell me the Hunter Laser system they use won't work because the head won't read. Cars too low and the bumper valance is in the way!!!

 

Told me to look for shop that had new Hunter Camera system( Hawkeye or John Beam) and not the laser!.

 

WTH!! How are all these lowered GT500s getting aligned? I don't think all these shops have the newest Hunter systems?

 

They did have a true align kit that mounted on 3 of the lug nuts from the wheel and was touchless (to the wheel). That was nice as opposed to having the kind that clips onto the lip of the wheel and is metal.

 

Oh well. Guess I have to get out the phone book and start callin! :banghead:

 

Anyone know of a good shop in the NW Chicago Suburbs?

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Thanks 08.

 

Well I just got back from the shop that said they could do it. 1.5 hours into and they tell me the Hunter Laser system they use won't work because the head won't read. Cars too low and the bumper valance is in the way!!!

 

Told me to look for shop that had new Hunter Camera system( Hawkeye or John Beam) and not the laser!.

 

WTH!! How are all these lowered GT500s getting aligned? I don't think all these shops have the newest Hunter systems?

 

They did have a true align kit that mounted on 3 of the lug nuts from the wheel and was touchless (to the wheel). That was nice as opposed to having the kind that clips onto the lip of the wheel and is metal.

 

Oh well. Guess I have to get out the phone book and start callin! :banghead:

 

Anyone know of a good shop in the NW Chicago Suburbs?

 

 

Well I finally found a decent shop in Mchenry and they aligned it with the heads being clipped on the inside of the rims. No scratches.

 

Adjusted the camber to specs as follows:

 

Spec Camber (front) -.75 (+ or - 1.5)

 

After alignment:

 

Front left -.9

Front right -.8

 

I was a little disappointed since the car pulled slightly to the right before and still after the alignment. I'm wondering why and what else I could do?

 

Does anyone else car pull slightly to one side or the other after a spec alignment?

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Well I finally found a decent shop in Mchenry and they aligned it with the heads being clipped on the inside of the rims. No scratches.

 

Adjusted the camber to specs as follows:

 

Spec Camber (front) -.75 (+ or - 1.5)

 

After alignment:

 

Front left -.9

Front right -.8

 

I was a little disappointed since the car pulled slightly to the right before and still after the alignment. I'm wondering why and what else I could do?

 

Does anyone else car pull slightly to one side or the other after a spec alignment?

 

 

Could it be the road? A lot of roads have a crown in them for water run-off. Did they center the steering wheel?

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Could it be the road? A lot of roads have a crown in them for water run-off. Did they center the steering wheel?

 

Yep. made sure it wasn't the road by driving on a nice flat lane.

 

Steering wheel was centered before and after. Just pulls a bit to the right. I'm wondering if that's because the Camber is a tad bit more negative on the driver's side (.9 as opposed to the right side of .8) which makes it pull to the right?

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Yep. made sure it wasn't the road by driving on a nice flat lane.

 

Steering wheel was centered before and after. Just pulls a bit to the right. I'm wondering if that's because the Camber is a tad bit more negative on the driver's side (.9 as opposed to the right side of .8) which makes it pull to the right?

 

From what I understand alignment shops set up all cars to pull slightly to the right, its for if you ever fall asleep.

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From what I understand alignment shops set up all cars to pull slightly to the right, its for if you ever fall asleep.

 

 

I just had an alignment after getting some new suspension parts installed and it rides straight. Place I took it too also adjusted for my body weight. This might be the reason shops adjust to the right. To balance out the weight of the driver...but that's hard to judge.

 

My car is completely balanced and drives like a dream. No walking under normal or extreme acceleration. I'd take it back or at lease call them.

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I just had an alignment after getting some new suspension parts installed and it rides straight. Place I took it too also adjusted for my body weight. This might be the reason shops adjust to the right. To balance out the weight of the driver...but that's hard to judge.

 

My car is completely balanced and drives like a dream. No walking under normal or extreme acceleration. I'd take it back or at lease call them.

 

 

 

I called them. They told me it was setup straight and that is was the crown of the road pulling my car.

 

I thought that I saw where someone was using an "angle" to measure the degrees of camber against the tire and made small modifications to check the alignment using that tool.

 

My toe and everything else was centered according to the specs. I'm thinking of taking the driver side wheel off and adjusted the Ingalls camber bolt just a little to take a "tad" more out of the negative camber. It sits at .9 and should be .75. Maybe taking it down a bit might be enough to offset that slight pull to the right?

 

Had anyone done this before?

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I called them. They told me it was setup straight and that is was the crown of the road pulling my car.

 

I thought that I saw where someone was using an "angle" to measure the degrees of camber against the tire and made small modifications to check the alignment using that tool.

 

My toe and everything else was centered according to the specs. I'm thinking of taking the driver side wheel off and adjusted the Ingalls camber bolt just a little to take a "tad" more out of the negative camber. It sits at .9 and should be .75. Maybe taking it down a bit might be enough to offset that slight pull to the right?

 

Had anyone done this before?

 

 

 

I wouldn't mess with your camber bolt, its gonna throw the toe off some and really not gonna help your pulling concern. Your camber at -.9 is very good, most gt500's are set in the -1.0 range stock. If your vehicle is pulling right, its either your caster settings or tires causing pull. Depending how hard the pull is, if its a very slight drift it could be caster, if it pulls very hard it will be your tires. Trust me on this, I have seen brand new tires pull, so it does happen occasionally.

 

So what you want to find out if where your caster setting is. I can't remember the specs for the gt500, but you want both the left and right side either the same like 4.0lf and 4.0rf, or even better would be 4.0 lf and 4.3 rf side. You always want a tad more caster on the right front side to compensate for road crown. The only problem with our mustangs is there really isn't a adjustment for caster without buying caster/camber plates. So if it drove fine from the factory from day one and now has a slight drift/pull after putting wheels/tires on, I would lean to a tire problem.

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Ok your car should NEVER pull to either the right or left... EVER.

 

If you get an alignment and the car is pulling TAKE IT BACK.

 

If they can't align it to your satisfaction get your money back and go elsewhere.

 

Oh and I don't think I should need to say this, but, don't ever take it to that shop again.

 

There's absolutely no way the shop can tell if your car is pulling by a conversation on the phone. They just want you to go away.

 

Take it back, have them do it AGAIN and then go for a ride with the tech. Drive down the road and if it pulls then take it back again.

 

I guess you guys are a lot nicer than me :)

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Ok your car should NEVER pull to either the right or left... EVER.

 

If you get an alignment and the car is pulling TAKE IT BACK.

 

If they can't align it to your satisfaction get your money back and go elsewhere.

 

Oh and I don't think I should need to say this, but, don't ever take it to that shop again.

 

There's absolutely no way the shop can tell if your car is pulling by a conversation on the phone. They just want you to go away.

 

Take it back, have them do it AGAIN and then go for a ride with the tech. Drive down the road and if it pulls then take it back again.

 

I guess you guys are a lot nicer than me :)

 

 

Well I trust the shop. They did my '04 Murano and did a great job. I believe that the car drove straight with the stock rims after the FRPP springs. It only started pulling slightly aftter the 20" rims were put on. I'm guessing I could just live with the slight pull, it's just irritating

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Well I trust the shop. They did my '04 Murano and did a great job. I believe that the car drove straight with the stock rims after the FRPP springs. It only started pulling slightly aftter the 20" rims were put on. I'm guessing I could just live with the slight pull, it's just irritating

 

 

I've never heard of wheels causing an alignment issue. Balance yes... but not alignment.

 

If your car is pulling then you need to get it fixed... one is not terribly safe to have a car driving like that and two your tires are going to wear prematurely.

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Are you able to switch your tires from side to side? In case it is the tire/rim.

 

Some other info:

 

" Unequal side-to-side camber of 1° or more will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the most positive camber."

 

 

"Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height ... If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster."

 

I have read that toe will not cause pulling, but after replacing outer tie rod ends on my 98 Explorer, it most certainly did! Until I adjusted toe.

 

You can check caster & camber (on a flat surface, with proper tire inflation) with an angle finder (ok) or digital level (better). And toe can be checked with a precision ruler and fishing line.

 

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24880/index.html

 

http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/df_alignment_4.htm

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Are you able to switch your tires from side to side? In case it is the tire/rim.

 

Some other info:

 

" Unequal side-to-side camber of 1° or more will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the most positive camber."

 

 

"Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height ... If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster."

 

I have read that toe will not cause pulling, but after replacing outer tie rod ends on my 98 Explorer, it most certainly did! Until I adjusted toe.

 

You can check caster & camber (on a flat surface, with proper tire inflation) with an angle finder (ok) or digital level (better). And toe can be checked with a precision ruler and fishing line.

 

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24880/index.html

 

http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/df_alignment_4.htm

 

 

Did you see the specs from the alignment above?

 

The front camber was -.9 and -.8 (left and right respectively). Aren't those close enough measurements?

 

The other specs for the front are:

(FRONT)

Cross Camber 0.0

Cross Caster 0.0

Total Toe .13

 

SPECS for rear are:

 

Rear Camber, -0.1 left 0.0 right

Rear Toe -0.08 left 0.00 right

 

Cross Camber -0.1

Total Toe -0.08

Thrust Angle -0.04

 

Can anyone that's had an alignment with 20" aftermarket rims similar to mine check my alignment readings against theirs?

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here's mine

 

Front

 

Camber

Left -0.9 -0.9

Right -0.9 -0.8

 

Caster

Left 7.2 6.7

Right 7.0 6.7

 

Toe

Left 0.07 0.07

Right 0.07 0.06

 

Total Toe 0.14 0.13

Steer Ahead 0.00

 

Rear

 

Camber

Left 0.0 -0.1

Right 0.0 0.0

 

Toe

Left 0.06 -0.08

Right -0.07 0.00

 

Total Toe -0.01 -0.08

Thrust Angle 0.06 -0.04

 

 

Well I posted my specs right next to yours. Don't see anything WAY out of whack though. I heard Thrust Angle talked about alot but my difference to your reading is only 2/100. That's not much at all! I'm at a loss to fault the alignment readings

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  • 1 month later...

I'm wondering if something on the suspension got bent when the shop tried to lift the car on the rack and that's why the card doesn't track straight?

 

I remember talking to the owner and the tech kept trying different places to jack the car. At one point he had the front end lifting on the bottom of the A-Arms. I walked out and told him that FORD didn't recommend lifting there.

 

He replied "those arms are made of cast iron and will not bend"? HMMM.....

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