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2010 Purchase vs. 2011 Purchase Question


  

42 members have voted

  1. 1. Based on the information below, if you could save $6,000 by purchasing a new 2010 GT500 (just under invoice - $44k) as opposed to a new 2011 GT500 (just under MSRP - $50k) would you do it?

    • Yes, I'd purchase a 2010.
    • No, I'd wait and purchase a 2011.
    • I wouldn't buy either and wait for another year with more changes.


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Question for each of my fellow Team Shelby members.

 

Based on the information below, if you could save $6,000 by purchasing a new 2010 GT500 (just under invoice - $44k) as opposed to a new 2011 GT500 (just under MSRP - $50k) would you do it?

 

1. Both vehicles would be built the same (except for the 2011 upgrades - AL engine, exhaust, sound proofing, electric power steering, larger cooling system, and rear seat head rests)

2. The GT500 you purchase would never see the track or any performance upgrades.

3. The GT500 you purchase will be used on the weekends and some week days driving to work going into heavy downtown traffic.

4. You have never owned a GT500 before.

 

 

I tried to add a poll but have never done that before so bear with me if it isn't working.

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Keep in mind, the relative values of the car. The 10 is already a model year old and there for less in value, so what is really a better deal? Are you more concerned with spending less cash or looking at value over the length of ownership. If I were to guess, barring any un forseen issues with the new aluminum motor, the 2011 will have better long term value.

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on the economics, take the 6k your savings and invest it, itll do a lot better than investing it in a car that depreciates from day 1.Ive always said, dont buy these cars for long term value, youre always better off investing in bonds or equities than in a new car.Do it for the fun,Im biased and have a 10,but both are great cars,do it for the fun---bob

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Keep in mind, the relative values of the car. The 10 is already a model year old and there for less in value, so what is really a better deal? Are you more concerned with spending less cash or looking at value over the length of ownership. If I were to guess, barring any un forseen issues with the new aluminum motor, the 2011 will have better long term value.

 

 

I understand that, it's just that looking on KBB.com it lists the car's value at $50k and then on ebay the closest comparable I can find is this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2010-Ford-Mustang-SHELBY-GT500-400-Miles-/380241491549?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item588828b65d which is asking $46 but who knows what they could really get for it. That was why I thought $44k for a non-titled but still two owner 475 mile car was reasonable. But maybe I come in at $42 and only go as high as $44.

 

The other point brought up is to watch the second gear syncro. Which I'm not quite sure what to look for just yet. The transmission felt good on the test drive, notchy but good. Then again I'm not quite sure of what I should have been looking for and I didn't do any high RPM shifts. Though I'll go back and test drive again this week if the other dealer in Alabama won't come down off MSRP on their 2011.

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Just for clarity, you are saying that you do not own a 500 now, correct?

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How important is it to have the car now? If you want the 2011 model wait until fall they will be cheaper.

 

If you plan on keeping the car for a while, but not for an investment, get the 2011. The 2011 has the new upgrades and will be more impressive. When your spending 40+ thousand what 's another 4k.

 

If you have never owned a Shelby, do not say you will not add any performance upgrades. You will most likely add them and you will be addicted to them, and then, hang on to your walllet. :spend::spend::spend::spend:

 

If you intend to have it for a short period of time get a used one or a new 2010. You will save more money by far.

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I'll try and answer the questions and also provide more information.

 

The 2010 will be titled as a new car. The dealer got it in January 2010 as a special order. Blue has confirmed via his database (which has shown true so far) that it was the last grabber blue made and one of the last 5 2010 GT500s. It does have the painted rear end. The special order person fell through and the dealer sold it two months ago. They guy put 300 miles on it over the weekend and brought it back the following week saying he couldn't afford the car. He had a good relationship with the dealer so the dealer took the car back and the title application was never submitted. Then the same thing happened to another buyer last weekend where they had buyer's remorse and said they couldn't afford it. They traded it in on a new 2010 F150. The title application never went through as it was a three day weekend and wasn't yet submitted. Somewhere in the mix, the car cover and owner's manual went missing. Two of the rear rims are also scratched. The dealer said the rims were scratched upon delivery and they recieved one of the new rims from Ford and are awaiting the second one. Both rims will be replaced. The car cover and owner's manual are also on order. So at the end of this, the car as 475 miles on it and can be titled as new. That is why I'm confident they will come down to $44 or even $42.

 

I don't own a GT500 yet and never have. Waiting till later this year isn't a big deal, but I'd like to have a car by August or I should just wait till next Spring. I live in Minnesota so this car won't be driven from November through April. The reason I say I won't do performance upgrades is I did them to my 05 F150 and I regret it. Any non-oem or fully warranted add-on always seems to have problems at some point. I'm tired of the break/fix and/or adding more money to what won't be a collector's item for 50-60 years. It's a depreciating asset to me and always will be. I plan on keeping the car a minimum of 5 years and most probably 10 year barring a major life changing event where I need to sell it or my salary improves so much that I want a more powerful or elite toy driver. Though I really don't see that coming any time soon as I'd rather use that pay increase money towards increasing financial savings and having children.

 

I could go either way at this point. I'll know from the Alabama dealer on Monday as to when the car will arrive and if it's by August I'll offer $48k on the '11 that has an MSRP of $52. Then if they say flat out no, then I'll probably go in the direction of the 2010 at $42k, but not go higher than $45k. What are your thoughts on this approach?

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2011 Gt 500 in Nicholasville, Kentucky, (Wildcat Ford) priced at $5,000.00 over sticker price. They will get seven of them.

 

 

 

Thank you for the heads up but I'm looking for a very specific 2010 or 2011. Grabber blue with white stripes (no SVT pkg), HID, car cover, and electronics pkg.

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Thank you for the heads up but I'm looking for a very specific 2010 or 2011. Grabber blue with white stripes (no SVT pkg), HID, car cover, and electronics pkg.

 

 

Many dealers if you negotiate will get you an '11 for 3-5K under sticker. The prices are definately coming down.

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There is no question in my mind what I would do....I bought my Red Stripe package the day it hit the dealer system, and I paid dearly for it...but was fine doing it because I got worried I wouldnt find one if I waited...its a good lesson learned. 99% of the cars sought are built and available by the end of the year run, and cheaper than MSRP.

 

What I would do at this point knowing what I do with the experience in so many of these cars I have- I would buy a 2011 because its just too much to pass up in what performance those cars will do over previous GT500s stock. I would do the SVT package and do stripe delete. Its the best way to go...I just dont dig the narrow stripes, and there is nothing wrong with a Shelby sans stripes, especially if you super snake it. Just be patient. Oh, and a 0% APR through Ford comes about once a year or so even on these cars...thats just free money....good luck!

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Take a look at my pics. I own the 2009 F-150 Platinum and the 2010 GT500, I have no regrets. You are not going to notice any difference in the two cars. I say this because the majority of us can't drive that way and will never push the cars to their limits. If you want bragging rights and have the extra cash flow go with the 2011, otherwise don't waste your money. I'm 54 and I'm going to be long gone and dead before this car ever becomes a collectable. Good luck on your decision.

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I see you don't even want the SVT package so it's really a better idea to look for a 2010 and use the money saved for .... uh, three truckloads of halloween candy... for instance.

 

Regardless, the main reasons to get a 2011, at least for me, is the Aluminum block, SVT package, Glasstop for aerial combat, and if you like saying "eleven" instead of "ten".

I mean, you'll still be able to scare the crap outta the ones you love with either car so...

 

:shift:

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I see you don't even want the SVT package so it's really a better idea to look for a 2010 and use the money saved for .... uh, three truckloads of halloween candy... for instance.

 

Regardless, the main reasons to get a 2011, at least for me, is the Aluminum block, SVT package, Glasstop for aerial combat, and if you like saying "eleven" instead of "ten".

I mean, you'll still be able to scare the crap outta the ones you love with either car so...

 

:shift:

 

 

 

I just traded in my new 2010... And paid the price, if you get my drift...for a 2011 SVT package vert!

 

Yes! You easily feel the difference between the two, especially the vert!

 

Go with a 2011 and get the SVT package. If you are dead set against the package...wait a month and Ford will be coming out with $5,000. incentive money on leftover 2010's!

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I would pass on that specific 2010 car, it has a questionable past. Hold out for a deal on 2011 or keep looking for a 2010. You can't go wrong with either year. The 2010 is proven and rock solid. There is a lot of first year tech in the 2011, and performance wise it's not much different unless you get the performance package.

Edited by 10random
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I want to thank each of you for your time and input! It has really helped hearing everyone's stories and thoughts. I am "dead-set" against the SVT pkg because I don't need the extra performance added per the suspension and I'd actually like it a little softer with how bumpy the roads are here in Minnesota. That and I really want the wider stripes on the car.

 

I am someone who analyzes to the nth degree on just about everything and a approx $50k purchase gets even extra thought and scrutinty. I drove the SRT8, SS Camaro and several luxury cars in the price point before setting my mind on the GT500. (I'll share all those in a long thread that I'm typing up to post later this week.) At the risk of sounding stupid, I think that typing all this out is very therapeutic and helps come to a decision that I'm both comfortable with and can live with.

 

I will let you know what I find out from the Alabama dealer later today about the availability date and price. I've got to make sure that I keep TCO (total cost of ownership) in mind on out-of-state purchases as there is also the cost to fly down and drive back or ship it. There is also the risk of damage in shipping or getting down there and seeing that it was damaged in delivery to the dealer. Now granted I'm not liable for those two instances but I know from personal experience through buying a boat out of state, that it is a major headache to get it fixed even when it's not on your own dime.

 

I've given a lot of thought to each of the '11 upgrades and how I feel about them:

 

- Engine: This is probably the biggest part for me. Not because it's 10 more HP but because I really like the blue valve colors and polished blower. As dumb as that sounds, it's what I live the best. The AL engine weight loss is awesome but I'll never hit a corner on a track where I'll feel the difference.

- Larger Cooler: This thing will never get lapped on a track so I'll never build up heat to the point where I'll be feeling degradation in power.

- Exhaust: When I heard the exhaust was re-worked to sound more aggressive and like the KR (h-pipe vs x-pipe), I was amped and thought this was a deal breaker for me. I want the car to sound aggressive in stock trim. However, when I heard the '10 GT500 this weekend, I got a huge smile on my face. That felt aggressive enough for me. Like the engine, this is extra icing on the cake.

- Rear Head Rests: I don’t sit in the back seat!  They look neat though and more comfortable for anyone who sits back there. But it’s not that big of a deal as there won’t be anyone who is sitting back there for longer than an hour. I’ll try sitting back there if I decide to move on the ’10. My wife tried sitting in the back seat and she said it surprisingly felt comfortable but was tight on head room and a head rest wouldn’t cure that.

- Additional Sound Deadening Material: This sounds really nice if it cuts down on road noise. Though my test drive didn’t include the highway and the roads I was on (up to 50 MPH) were not that loud inside the cabin. I’d be interested in hearing from owner’s who upgraded from ’10 to ’11. Looking at engine bay pictures you can notice the difference.

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I've owned (4) GT500's now. And my one comment is that the first three drove "heavy in the front" for a lack of a better way of expressing this. The SVT Package on my 2011 vert creates a much more spirited and lively car. Perhaps a combination of the aluminum block + electronic steering + vastly improved suspension - especially when comparing '10 and '11 convertibles! But the car simply drives-like-it-should now!

 

My only beef: Those damn skinny stripes! [i actually like the two-tone striping, but not how skinny they are]

Edited by 66DNA
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I want to thank each of you for your time and input! It has really helped hearing everyone's stories and thoughts. I am "dead-set" against the SVT pkg because I don't need the extra performance added per the suspension and I'd actually like it a little softer with how bumpy the roads are here in Minnesota. That and I really want the wider stripes on the car.

 

I am someone who analyzes to the nth degree on just about everything and a approx $50k purchase gets even extra thought and scrutinty. I drove the SRT8, SS Camaro and several luxury cars in the price point before setting my mind on the GT500. (I'll share all those in a long thread that I'm typing up to post later this week.) At the risk of sounding stupid, I think that typing all this out is very therapeutic and helps come to a decision that I'm both comfortable with and can live with.

 

I will let you know what I find out from the Alabama dealer later today about the availability date and price. I've got to make sure that I keep TCO (total cost of ownership) in mind on out-of-state purchases as there is also the cost to fly down and drive back or ship it. There is also the risk of damage in shipping or getting down there and seeing that it was damaged in delivery to the dealer. Now granted I'm not liable for those two instances but I know from personal experience through buying a boat out of state, that it is a major headache to get it fixed even when it's not on your own dime.

 

I've given a lot of thought to each of the '11 upgrades and how I feel about them:

 

you can add blue valve covers to the 2010---see TX SIG posts

 

- Engine: This is probably the biggest part for me. Not because it's 10 more HP but because I really like the blue valve colors and polished blower. As dumb as that sounds, it's what I live the best. The AL engine weight loss is awesome but I'll never hit a corner on a track where I'll feel the difference.

- Larger Cooler: This thing will never get lapped on a track so I'll never build up heat to the point where I'll be feeling degradation in power.

- Exhaust: When I heard the exhaust was re-worked to sound more aggressive and like the KR (h-pipe vs x-pipe), I was amped and thought this was a deal breaker for me. I want the car to sound aggressive in stock trim. However, when I heard the '10 GT500 this weekend, I got a huge smile on my face. That felt aggressive enough for me. Like the engine, this is extra icing on the cake.

- Rear Head Rests: I dont sit in the back seat!  They look neat though and more comfortable for anyone who sits back there. But its not that big of a deal as there wont be anyone who is sitting back there for longer than an hour. Ill try sitting back there if I decide to move on the 10. My wife tried sitting in the back seat and she said it surprisingly felt comfortable but was tight on head room and a head rest wouldnt cure that.

- Additional Sound Deadening Material: This sounds really nice if it cuts down on road noise. Though my test drive didnt include the highway and the roads I was on (up to 50 MPH) were not that loud inside the cabin. Id be interested in hearing from owners who upgraded from 10 to 11. Looking at engine bay pictures you can notice the difference.

you can change the valve colors to blue on the 2010

Edited by Torched10
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you can change the valve colors to blue on the 2010

 

hmm, that I didn't know. I had meetings all day at work and missed the calls from both dealers. By the time I called back they were both gone for the day. We'll see how tomorrow goes. If I can get the '11 GT500 dealer to come down $4k or $5k off MSRP then I'll definitely go for the '11. $3k off MSRP will be a moral dilema. Anything less means the '10 GT500 if the '10 dealer will come down to $42 based on the mileage and background.

 

Another option is if the dealer of the '10 is willing to change his inventory order of an '11 GT500 to fit my specs and come down MSRP.

 

However, I feel like some of these scenarios are long shots.

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To sweeten the 10 gt500 and/or make my choice harder my local credit union is offering 3.79 and zero payments for 90 days.

 

The Alabama existing order is sold. there are 3 others aparently on order at other deaLers but they wont release them to the Alabama dealer. They wouldn't say who those other dealers are though and I cannot find them on autotrader or cars.com.

 

So my best 11 bet is to find someone to place an order with for an undisclosed amount of time. I also would not be able to lock in financing or the no payments for 90 days until I have a vin.

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I went around the 2010 vs 2011 for a while myself. I wanted a vert and I am not tracking or drag racing the car so I wanted it to ride decent over handling and I am pleased with the ride and so far it seems to handle OK. While I would have liked to have the 100lbs less over the nose and the 19" wheels the 2011 has, along with the additional bracing (which mine appears to have at least some of being a late 2010) I just couldnt justify the higher sticker price and all the cars I that were available had the SVTPP that I didnt want. I couldnt see spending the extra 8-10K for a 2011, that was the bottom line for me.

 

As far as resale it will be more on the 2011 if you have to sell in two years no doubt, but if you can buy the 2010 at a good deal that will easily offset that. I would advise to put it on a rack and bring an extra pair of experienced eyes along. A couple scratched wheels arent a big deal, that kind of stuff can easily happen to people who baby their car. But I would check for lot and/or transport damage carefully. Some states have to report any damage, some do not under a certain dollar value so you may want to check into that.

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I went around the 2010 vs 2011 for a while myself. I wanted a vert and I am not tracking or drag racing the car so I wanted it to ride decent over handling and I am pleased with the ride and so far it seems to handle OK. While I would have liked to have the 100lbs less over the nose and the 19" wheels the 2011 has, along with the additional bracing (which mine appears to have at least some of being a late 2010) I just couldnt justify the higher sticker price and all the cars I that were available had the SVTPP that I didnt want. I couldnt see spending the extra 8-10K for a 2011, that was the bottom line for me.

 

As far as resale it will be more on the 2011 if you have to sell in two years no doubt, but if you can buy the 2010 at a good deal that will easily offset that. I would advise to put it on a rack and bring an extra pair of experienced eyes along. A couple scratched wheels arent a big deal, that kind of stuff can easily happen to people who baby their car. But I would check for lot and/or transport damage carefully. Some states have to report any damage, some do not under a certain dollar value so you may want to check into that.

 

good point-what would you look for under the car

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good point-what would you look for under the car

 

 

Yeah it's an excellent point. Unfortunately I don't have an experienced set of eyes other than to look and see if anything looks scratched or dented. I will however request that I look with the SVT tech.

 

I'm trying to find that arrival checklist for the '10 to inform people of what to look for.

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Yeah it's an excellent point. Unfortunately I don't have an experienced set of eyes other than to look and see if anything looks scratched or dented. I will however request that I look with the SVT tech.

 

I'm trying to find that arrival checklist for the '10 to inform people of what to look for.

 

my memory is that ChrsD did that list middle of last year---send him a PM or do a search

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good point-what would you look for under the car

 

 

Just any kind of paintwork, generally you will see overspray or other signs of body repair, most bodyshops dont detail under the car. Also just look for anything scraped up or obviously replaced that a joy riding salesman may have damaged. The mechanical stuff is well covered under warranty and can be easily replaced but I would never buy a new car that has had any kind of paint/bodywork or was driven into a ditch. Other than that its a car and cars get worn from even loving owners so I would sweat anything minor if they are giving you a good deal.

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Just any kind of paintwork, generally you will see overspray or other signs of body repair, most bodyshops dont detail under the car. Also just look for anything scraped up or obviously replaced that a joy riding salesman may have damaged. The mechanical stuff is well covered under warranty and can be easily replaced but I would never buy a new car that has had any kind of paint/bodywork or was driven into a ditch. Other than that its a car and cars get worn from even loving owners so I would sweat anything minor if they are giving you a good deal.

 

 

 

Yeah the scratching on the steering column by the key is from someone mindlessly stabbing for the key hole...but I'm willing to overlook it. The other item is the bottom outside seat bolster that has ripply or webbing where the leather is not really tight, but then again it's not loose either. Just looks like someone has gotten in and out of the car. I'm sure anyone who has used there car for a couple months looks the same.

 

I'll be in PA for a wedding this week so I'm going back on Monday to see it again after they try and clean it up and fix the rim, track down a new cover and the owners manual. Then I'll know more to about the likeliness of getting an '11 GT500 spec'd out the same way (electronics pkg, car cover and grabber blue with white stripes). The pain is that everything seems to have the SVT pkg and everyone is either ordering theirs loaded out with SVT or if it's a base car then it doesn't have the electronics pkg.

 

The other dealers who are willing to order one either want a ADM or at a minimum MSRP of $52,210. It's a free market place and they can ask what they want, I'm just not willing to pay that. So I either wait and hope I get lucky or save at least $6k by getting the 2010 at $44k. I don't think I'd go any higher because the '10s are right around $47k now and this one has 475 miles, two owners (though no title), and a story. So that builds a case for the lower price. I just have to make sure I'm not going to wish I had that AL engine with the polished SC and the blue valve covers. The other upgrades are not that big of a deal for me.

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