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Went to the track today for the first time


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So I went to Atco today for the first time with my GT500. She just flipped over 500 miles and I still hadn't gone full throttle with the car since I picked up. I've been trying to get at least 500 miles on it before I tore into it and lucky me, it turned 500 just in time for a nice day and Atco test &tune night. The only mods are a Magnaflow muffler axle back and FRPP resonator delete.

I've been drag racing Mustangs for about 10 years now so I was pretty confident that I'd have no problem turning out some impressive times.... Boy was I wrong. My last two cars were 03 Cobras, one a mid 11 second vert and one a 10 second coupe. I hadn't run a car on regular street tires since before both of those cars and I didn't even consider that. It was like racing on ice...

 

My first run was a feeler "shake down" type of run for me and right away I realized that the hydraulic clutch was a world of a difference from the cables that I was used to. I ended up spinning horribly out of the hole and on the 1-2 shift I got some bad hop. I drove through it and on the 2-3 the hop came back and it was even worse. The car was all over the track from the 2-3 mess that I experienced.

 

The result was: 60': 2.522, 1/4: 13.696 @ 112.06. I'm embarresed as heck to post that 60' time, but I gotta be honest and it is what it is.

 

I ran a second time to get some more feel for the clutch, spin and hop and got similar results in terms of spin. I improved quite a bit with a little better technique on the launch, but the hop inbetween shifts was still brutal.

 

60': 2.163, 1/4: 12.711 @ 114.31

 

I learned a lot from the second run and decided to go for a third as I could not go home with that kind of performance. I lined up again and this time I was pretty confident that I could crack off at least a 12.5 but I was going to have to "drive through" the hop to do it. I launched it pretty smooth and didn't get any hop out of the hole, but on the 1-2 it reared its ugly head again. I stayed in it and on the 2-3 the car was ALL OVER THE PLACE, but again I stayed in it.

 

The result: 60': 2.091, 1/4: 12.463 @ 117.46

 

All in all I was happy with the progression I made from one run to the next, but I would have liked to done a little better on the short time. I know I'm a better driver than that, but I really felt uncomfortable with the clutch on the launch and the stock tires were just horrible. I'm not thrilled at all with the times either, but I'm pretty confident that another day of practice will get me into the 12.2X range with some cooler weather. It was nice out today, but it was about 85* when I got there and at least 80* on my last run.

 

So I have my baseline runs, I guess its time to start the modding. I have a Eibach Pro springs and L&M TB on the way, a VMP 2.60 pulley and 90mm idler sitting in my garage and I'll be ordering a J&M upper control arm probably tonight or tomorrow, so hopefully next time out I can get some hop free runs in.

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For a first time out the numbers are good. The mph is almost 118. Put tires on the car and a easy 2-3shift should put you solidly into the 11's in the same air. Now with better air and less heat soak it will be faster. Good luck.

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Yeah, I was hoping to get into the 11's stock, but I guess its a little harder than I thought it was gonna be. What is the fastest time for a stock 10?

 

 

On street tires around 11.7, wityh dr around 11.5

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Nice times. My best was a 13.1 at 111mph. I couldn't get mine to hook-up worth a beams the the wheel hop was awful, even in 3rd. This motivated me to do some mods and the car is currently at TASCA Ford in RI for just that. Another issue I had is that it was it grinding from 1-2 gear, so TASCA is looking to remedy this too. But when all is said and done, these tires are still crap! Any suggestion for a really good street tire?

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Yeah, I was hoping to get into the 11's stock, but I guess its a little harder than I thought it was gonna be. What is the fastest time for a stock 10?

 

 

Just search "Evan Smith" and you'll get the mythical ES ET.

 

11-somthin's but I don't remember what the "somethin's" was.

 

And IF I'm not mistaken it was on a set of street drag tires (anyone?).

 

His time is constantly and hotly debated, whether it can be duplicated by anything other than a professional (or semi pro) driver and it's quoted all the time by the Ford boys (vs the GM boys).

 

 

Phill

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I'm not a professional by any means, but I think with what I've learned in my last 3 runs and what the time slips tell me, I can get at least a 12.00 maybe 11.9x out of it the way it sits. The key word here being "STOCK." You can't compare stock times with those from a car that was "stock with slicks" or "stock with drag radials." Tires are HUGE as specially with a car that makes so much torque like the 500 does.

I don't think it will take much more than a couple runs to get the clutch down to the point of being able to launch the car to 1.9x 60's with these tires, but I don't know what its going to take to get rid of the 1-2 and 2-3 hop which is probably what's gonna slow me down just as much.

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Just search "Evan Smith" and you'll get the mythical ES ET.

 

11-somthin's but I don't remember what the "somethin's" was.

 

And IF I'm not mistaken it was on a set of street drag tires (anyone?).

 

His time is constantly and hotly debated, whether it can be duplicated by anything other than a professional (or semi pro) driver and it's quoted all the time by the Ford boys (vs the GM boys).

 

 

Phill

 

 

Who really cares what the ET is? It looks good on paper or at the track but in the real world MPH is what matters. The car in the MMFF test ran 119 and 117. That is good speed and shows the car is making power. Go slap on a set of ET Streets or Drags and then anyone can cut 60fts like a pro! It is much harder (and expensive) to get HP than it is to get a set of tires!

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I'm not a professional by any means, but I think with what I've learned in my last 3 runs and what the time slips tell me, I can get at least a 12.00 maybe 11.9x out of it the way it sits. The key word here being "STOCK." You can't compare stock times with those from a car that was "stock with slicks" or "stock with drag radials." Tires are HUGE as specially with a car that makes so much torque like the 500 does.

I don't think it will take much more than a couple runs to get the clutch down to the point of being able to launch the car to 1.9x 60's with these tires, but I don't know what its going to take to get rid of the 1-2 and 2-3 hop which is probably what's gonna slow me down just as much.

 

 

 

Go when it's cooler outside, these cars stock don't like high 80's when your going for low times at the strip.

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I'm not a professional by any means, but I think with what I've learned in my last 3 runs and what the time slips tell me, I can get at least a 12.00 maybe 11.9x out of it the way it sits. The key word here being "STOCK." You can't compare stock times with those from a car that was "stock with slicks" or "stock with drag radials." Tires are HUGE as specially with a car that makes so much torque like the 500 does.

I don't think it will take much more than a couple runs to get the clutch down to the point of being able to launch the car to 1.9x 60's with these tires, but I don't know what its going to take to get rid of the 1-2 and 2-3 hop which is probably what's gonna slow me down just as much.

 

 

My Vert used to hop ALL OVER THE PLACE...

I put on a set of J&M Billet LCA's and the hop is TOTALLY GONE.

With no hop, you can drive and shift right through the spinning on the stock rubber. Once they heat up (and lower the air pressure in the rear to around 26-28 lbs) you'll be in the high 11's with no issue.

But the hop IS BAD, it ruins EVERYTHING.

Try the LCA's, I swear by 'em

GUS

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I took my 2010 with 3500 miles and Justins 2.6 pulley and tune to Rockingham Dragway Friday. It was 92* and so humid that they had to take the timing sensors apart and clean the lenses from the humidity. I had Nittos and the pulley and that's it.

This was my first trip to the 1/4 Mile with this car.

Best run of the day in the damned heat was:

60' 1.895

1/8 7.808

1/8 93.94

1/4 11.960

1/4 120.44

Was happy with the MPH but it was so hot I could bearly take sitting in the staging lanes with my helmet on.

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I took my 2010 with 3500 miles and Justins 2.6 pulley and tune to Rockingham Dragway Friday. It was 92* and so humid that they had to take the timing sensors apart and clean the lenses from the humidity. I had Nittos and the pulley and that's it.

This was my first trip to the 1/4 Mile with this car.

Best run of the day in the damned heat was:

60' 1.895

1/8 7.808

1/8 93.94

1/4 11.960

1/4 120.44

Was happy with the MPH but it was so hot I could bearly take sitting in the staging lanes with my helmet on.

 

so, no wheel hop?/to do you attribute that to the tires--great times---bob

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so, no wheel hop?/to do you attribute that to the tires--great times---bob

 

I ran with 22lbs of air in the Nittos. Ran 4 times. The only wheel hop was 1st to 2nd gear, 2 or three hops, car stayed straight, I stayed in it. Nothing after that.

My burnout consisted of 4K let out the clutch in 2nd gear, ride it as far as I could (up to the staging lights). Then I launched somewhere between 2.5K to 3K easing into both the throttle and the clutch, once I knew it was planted, mashed the pedal and lifted for each shift. (no power shifting).

Traction control off.

It was so hot that not many people even showed up. I had the fastest ET and MPH of any car that ran test and tune.

Closest comp was a LS1 Vette with heads and Cam @ 12.4 114mph and a LS3 and an LS3 vette that ran a 12.4 @ 115.

I think in 70* temps the car will run 11.6's

It was heat soaking bad with the stock I/C and 92*

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I ran with 22lbs of air in the Nittos. Ran 4 times. The only wheel hop was 1st to 2nd gear, 2 or three hops, car stayed straight, I stayed in it. Nothing after that.

My burnout consisted of 4K let out the clutch in 2nd gear, ride it as far as I could (up to the staging lights). Then I launched somewhere between 2.5K to 3K easing into both the throttle and the clutch, once I knew it was planted, mashed the pedal and lifted for each shift. (no power shifting).

Traction control off.

It was so hot that not many people even showed up. I had the fastest ET and MPH of any car that ran test and tune.

Closest comp was a LS1 Vette with heads and Cam @ 12.4 114mph and a LS3 and an LS3 vette that ran a 12.4 @ 115.

I think in 70* temps the car will run 11.6's

It was heat soaking bad with the stock I/C and 92*

 

thanks for update---if you run normal pressure in the Nittos, do you get wheel hop on acceleration.Im obviuosly looking toi greatly reduce mine,and im not very mechanical, co the UCA or LCA approcah have drawbacks for me. You and Tx STIG have said tires can do it too,so just wondering if you see the reduction in normal driving as well--thanks

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thanks for update---if you run normal pressure in the Nittos, do you get wheel hop on acceleration.Im obviuosly looking toi greatly reduce mine,and im not very mechanical, co the UCA or LCA approcah have drawbacks for me. You and Tx STIG have said tires can do it too,so just wondering if you see the reduction in normal driving as well--thanks

 

I made a large mistake when I first put the nittos on. I Asummed that the tire store filled them to my specs and I went to the drags with out checking the tire pressure. The first time out on the 1/8 mile I bounced and hopped so bad when I hit second gear I almost hit the wall. When I checked the tire pressure after the run there was close to 45lbs in each tire. Pressure is very important. They perform real nice on the street also. If you run real race slicks you will need suspension work for sure but with the compromise of the nittos I am not ready to change the stock suspension yet at my power level.

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I made a large mistake when I first put the nittos on. I Asummed that the tire store filled them to my specs and I went to the drags with out checking the tire pressure. The first time out on the 1/8 mile I bounced and hopped so bad when I hit second gear I almost hit the wall. When I checked the tire pressure after the run there was close to 45lbs in each tire. Pressure is very important. They perform real nice on the street also. If you run real race slicks you will need suspension work for sure but with the compromise of the nittos I am not ready to change the stock suspension yet at my power level.

 

thanks alot--one more question, what pressure are you runing on the street//bob

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thanks alot--one more question, what pressure are you runing on the street//bob

 

I am running a set of 2010 GT 500 look a likes, American Muscle 18" wheels in the rear. I run the same 22lbs on the street, but don't drive the car long distance. The stock rear wheels and tires are in my garage. I consider them useless for straight line acceleration. The car doesn't handle like it did with the stock rears. They weren't bad for twisties and I was really impressed with the way the car handled right out of the box. Next year I am going to get a set of slicks for the 18" rears and just switch between the stock wheels and tires and slicks for the track. I will need to work on the suspension in order to run the slick though.

Good luck Bob,

Rich

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I had the same problem with wheel hop and ran nearly exactly the same time as the OP's second run. 12.79 @ 114 with a 2.15 60'. The launch felt pretty good and it stuck when I planted the throttle, but I got nasty chassis/wheel hop with each gear change. Even on the 3-4 change. It was about 88° outside and VERY humid. I couldn't get the trap speed up any higher. I had one really nice cool down period as it's a 120 mile drive to the track for me. I let it cool for a good hour. I ran my best 60' of the night at 2.07, but couldn't get it into second gear. It seems the TR6060 doesn't like to go into second on a quick shift until it's really warmed up but by that time the engine is heat soaked and has pulled considerable timing.

 

So, it sounds like control arms are what I need to do. Are there any factory parts that can be swapped? My wife is very mod friendly, but is not friendly to anything that may cause warranty problems on a $50k car.

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It seems the TR6060 doesn't like to go into second on a quick shift until it's really warmed up but by that time the engine is heat soaked and has pulled considerable timing.

 

So, it sounds like control arms are what I need to do. Are there any factory parts that can be swapped? My wife is very mod friendly, but is not friendly to anything that may cause warranty problems on a $50k car.

 

Sounds like a good upgraded heat exchanger and adj. uca & lca is what you need.

 

Warranty will be affected only as far as those parts basically. So if a weld breaks or the new part you put on breaks, or a short because your HE install etc. they may not cover it at the dealer from my understanding. But if your A/C compressor goes out, Sync, Window motor, blow your engine etc. you should be fine (from what my Ford dealer tells me). The main thing is don't do anything too extreme to the engine and leave it modified then go to the Ford dealer and expect to get any type of powertrain warranty. Maybe someone else we'll chime in with more specifics, hope those examples help.

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Sounds like a good upgraded heat exchanger and adj. uca & lca is what you need.

 

Warranty will be affected only as far as those parts basically. So if a weld breaks or the new part you put on breaks, or a short because your HE install etc. they may not cover it at the dealer from my understanding. But if your A/C compressor goes out, Sync, Window motor, blow your engine etc. you should be fine (from what my Ford dealer tells me). The main thing is don't do anything too extreme to the engine and leave it modified then go to the Ford dealer and expect to get any type of powertrain warranty. Maybe someone else we'll chime in with more specifics, hope those examples help.

 

 

Upgraded heat exchanger is definitely on my list of mods. Now that the 2011 models are out, I was wondering if one could fit a factory 2011 HE onto a 2010 model? Anyone thought about that? Surely it woud fit...

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Upgraded heat exchanger is definitely on my list of mods. Now that the 2011 models are out, I was wondering if one could fit a factory 2011 HE onto a 2010 model? Anyone thought about that? Surely it woud fit...

 

I thought about the 2011 HE & the intercooler, then looked into the steeda, afco and revan etc. The 2011 is still going to be considered not original and it's not nearly as good as the Afco / Revan from what I can tell and read. I think I've decided to go with the Revan bc well it has documentation that it's the best and Shelby uses it. I will also be installing the over sized stock look resevoir also. Initially I was worried about the fan noise but I'll have a relay switch installed if it's an issue or adjust the fan settings. I don't want to regret later not having the best for only a few hundred more bucks. Especially where I live, even though I won't track it much, I want the most out of it at all times. It should be installed within 2 weeks I'll give you an update if your still deciding.

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I thought about the 2011 HE & the intercooler, then looked into the steeda, afco and revan etc. The 2011 is still going to be considered not original and it's not nearly as good as the Afco / Revan from what I can tell and read. I think I've decided to go with the Revan bc well it has documentation that it's the best and Shelby uses it. I will also be installing the over sized stock look resevoir also. Initially I was worried about the fan noise but I'll have a relay switch installed if it's an issue or adjust the fan settings. I don't want to regret later not having the best for only a few hundred more bucks. Especially where I live, even though I won't track it much, I want the most out of it at all times. It should be installed within 2 weeks I'll give you an update if your still deciding.

 

 

Yes please do! This is definitely going to be one of the first mods. Thanks!

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My Vert used to hop ALL OVER THE PLACE...

I put on a set of J&M Billet LCA's and the hop is TOTALLY GONE.

With no hop, you can drive and shift right through the spinning on the stock rubber. Once they heat up (and lower the air pressure in the rear to around 26-28 lbs) you'll be in the high 11's with no issue.

But the hop IS BAD, it ruins EVERYTHING.

Try the LCA's, I swear by 'em

GUS

 

 

 

How was it to install the LCA's? Any special tools needed? or tricks?

 

Thanks

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Well, I "dropped the Benjis" so to speak, at American Muscle and ended up with a garage full of parts when I was really only looking into an upper control arm... :headscratch: I ended up with a J&M adjustable upper control arm, J&M adustable Pan Hard bar, J&M Extreme Joint lower control arms, J&M Caster/Camber plates and Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs. This stuff all looks great in my garage sitting next to my already waiting: Shelby upper control arm mount, Steeda Pan Hard brace, VMP 2.65 upper pulley and 90mm idler, L&M throttle body and the Revan Racing heat exchanger that's also enroute.... :doh: How did this happen????? This is actually partly my wife's fault. She wanted to buy me a fathers day present and ordered me the UCA, a billet Shelby map light trim and Shelby dead pedal. I just couldn't leave an order that small, it wouldn't be right.... :fool:

 

Now if I can just get some tires that will stick to the ground I'll be runnin with the big boys in no time... :superhero:

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Well, I "dropped the Benjis" so to speak, at American Muscle and ended up with a garage full of parts when I was really only looking into an upper control arm... headscratch.gif I ended up with a J&M adjustable upper control arm, J&M adustable Pan Hard bar, J&M Extreme Joint lower control arms, J&M Caster/Camber plates and Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs. This stuff all looks great in my garage sitting next to my already waiting: Shelby upper control arm mount, Steeda Pan Hard brace, VMP 2.65 upper pulley and 90mm idler, L&M throttle body and the Revan Racing heat exchanger that's also enroute.... doh.gifHow did this happen????? This is actually partly my wife's fault. hysterical.gif

 

 

I'm doing nearly the same mods in the next couple weeks but I have no wife to blame.....headscratch.gif ..anymore happy%20feet.gif

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