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Shelby Hood Pin set


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I received my Shelby Hood pin set on Monday and was taking inventory of the parts and I noticed that the screws that came with the plates are stainless steel. I called SPP and talked to Tim and explained my concern with putting stainless steel screws in an aluminum hood. Tim contacted Robert and he said he wasn't aware of any problems with the steel screws. He said the paint should stop the metal to metal contact. I have read numerous posts on this forum discussing the problems with the steel screws in the aluminum hood. I have talked to three body shops and they all say the steel screws will cause dissimilar of metals. Has anyone used aluminum screws and where can you buy them?

Edited by zachman
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I had emailed someone at Shelby and they recommended getting aluminum screws and suggested a marine/boat parts store......

 

 

Laurence

 

 

What suprised me most was the fact that the Shelby/Scott Drake plates and pins are still being sent out of SPP with a potential for problems in the future. Robert told Tim that he wasn't aware of any problem with the steel screws because the paint would protect the two from making contact. I understand they are very busy and don't have time to read many of the posts on this forum; but I have talked to members who have had their hoods repaired because of the steel screws in the aluminum hood.

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What suprised me most was the fact that the Shelby/Scott Drake plates and pins are still being sent out of SPP with a potential for problems in the future. Robert told Tim that he wasn't aware of any problem with the steel screws because the paint would protect the two from making contact. I understand they are very busy and don't have time to read many of the posts on this forum; but I have talked to members who have had their hoods repaired because of the steel screws in the aluminum hood.

 

 

I hear you, and I was hoping for a better response.....

 

Laurence

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Interesting thread, as I just had an issue with SAI regarding the steel screws used to attach each hood pin base to my aluminum hood.

 

While my car was at SAI for the supercharger conversion, I had my hood repainted due to the corrosion caused by the steel screws used to attach the hood pin base. This corrosion, identified as galvanic corrosion, occurs due to dissimilar metals being in contact - in this case aluminum and steel. The corrosion occured on my SGT within 6 months of being built.

 

Last week, I was waxing the car in prepartion for a road trip. I removed the hood pin base from each side to wax that area since it had been four months since the hood was painted. I was shocked, astonished and perplexed to see that the base on each side was attached with STEEL screws again. Unbelievable is putting it mildly. After SAI went to all the expense and time to repaint my hood due to galvanic corrosion caused by the use of steel screws, somebody, I mean somebody at SAI used the same screws that caused the problem in the first place.

 

Check your pin screws boys, especially if you have had it repainted. And, if it is not attached by aluminum screws or rivets, you will have corrosion eventually.

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Shortly after I purchased my SGT I removed the plates and coated all the exposed alluminum with touch up clear paint and then used locktight on the threads of the screws (the screws kept walking loose). A year later I have not seen any corrosion.

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Attached is a photo depicting the corrosion caused by the steel screws that attached the base of my hood pin kit to the hood. You can see that the corrosion comes from the area where two of the screws attach the base to the hood. This pic was taken before my hood was repaired.

post-26281-127544188651_thumb.jpg

post-26281-127544188651_thumb.jpg

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Attached is a photo depicting the corrosion caused by the steel screws that attached the base of my hood pin kit to the hood. You can see that the corrosion comes from the area where two of the screws attach the base to the hood. This pic was taken before my hood was repaired.

 

 

Or This !!!!!

 

web.jpg

 

Andrew

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The 2008 Grabber Orange Shelby GT'S had the plates attached with aluminum rivets. I used the aluminum rivets to attach the new plates. Worked great.

 

So a marine/boat parts store sells aluminum screws?

 

I found a place that sells aluminum screws. What size are they? I never measured them.

Edited by SGT0225
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Anyone?

[/quote

 

The screws are size 8 x 32. Did you find phillips head of flathead screws? I ended up installing some flat heads but the heads were too large to fill in the pre-drilled holes in the base. I placed the screws in a drill and ground them down against a file to get them the proper diameter. Worked like a champ. I looked for the screws at several hardware stores here and wasn't having much luck. I should have tried one of the boat supply parts stores.

Edited by springer
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Anyone?

[/quote

 

The screws are size 8 x 32. Did you find phillips head of flathead screws? I ended up installing some flat heads but the heads were too large to fill in the pre-drilled holes in the base. I placed the screws in a drill and ground them down against a file to get them the proper diameter. Worked like a champ. I looked for the screws at several hardware stores here and wasn't having much luck. I should have tried one of the boat supply parts stores.

 

I have mcmaster.com open in the next window.

 

They have 6 different lenght 8 x 32 screws - they call them round head - I call them button head.

 

Part numbers 93143A190 thru 93143A199

 

Great prices, take a look.

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ame='springer' date='02 June 2010 - 09:07 PM' timestamp='1275530858' post='979965']

 

I have mcmaster.com open in the next window.

 

They have 6 different lenght 8 x 32 screws - they call them round head - I call them button head.

 

Part numbers 93143A190 thru 93143A199

 

Great prices, take a look.

 

 

Are your plates held on with both a bolt and nut ?

My 2007 was installed using sheet metal screws, not sure of the size but when I got the new billet plates I had to re-use the original screws as the ones that came with the new plates were smaller than the originals and wouldn't tightn up.

Don

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Are your plates held on with both a bolt and nut ?

My 2007 was installed using sheet metal screws, not sure of the size but when I got the new billet plates I had to re-use the original screws as the ones that came with the new plates were smaller than the originals and wouldn't tightn up.

Don

 

 

Aren't at least two of the screws, they are on my car, are inside the inner layer of the hood?

 

I suppose you could use bolts on two of the 4?

 

I have aluminum screws on mine for over a year, so far no issues.

Edited by JeffIsHereToo
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  • 4 weeks later...

:banghead:

 

I procrastinated and now I see the corrosion under the hood pins !

 

The corrosion does not extend beyone the plates yet....can it be stopped in it's tracks by using the aluminum rivet or screws OR am I screwed...no pun intended.

 

Is there a chemical that will stop it from spreading?

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:banghead:

 

I procrastinated and now I see the corrosion under the hood pins !

 

The corrosion does not extend beyone the plates yet....can it be stopped in it's tracks by using the aluminum rivet or screws OR am I screwed...no pun intended.

 

Is there a chemical that will stop it from spreading?

 

Rush

sorry to hear about that!!!! i have not pulled my plates yet but want to get alum. screws wheather its corroded or not.....

If you do not mind, can you let me know where you get them and what size they are? I am going to try and locate a marine/boat soon and see what i can find...

 

Laurence

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i have the better billett shelby hood pin kit, my problem is the lanyards both discolored and the plastic knob covers fell off. has any one else had this problem?

 

 

I've been through four (4) sets of lanyards and every one of them has discolored on the part that was exposed and my car sits in the garage all the time when I'm not driving it...West Texas, hot heat, but very dry....I finally got tired of replacing the lanyards and decided to just scrape the plastic off of my last set...once I did that, I used some steel wool to clean up any remaining plastic and then I sprayed the cables with automotive clear and gave them a couple of coats of that....My covers over the ends where they attach to the pins had broken off, so I took some Black Shrink Tubing and put it over the ends and heated it just a little bit...the cables are still able to move and looks clean....Haven't had any more problems with discoloration since.....

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ok, listen up....most major towns/cities should have a Fastenal store. If it's a screw or bolt these guys and gals know their business. Even if you don't have a local store you can get it usually online or from another store in another city......

 

http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

 

and no, I don't work for them but have used them for rivets, rivet nuts, screws and bolts and any other special project ... :salute: Craig

 

edit...some more information on how and why different metals react. See section on Galvanic corrosion. Also, look at table 2. Appears zinc and stainless steel has less potential than other metals. Cg

 

http://www2.mtec.or.th/th/research/famd/corro%5Chowmetals.htm#table1

Edited by SGT/SC2873
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Rush

sorry to hear about that!!!! i have not pulled my plates yet but want to get alum. screws wheather its corroded or not.....

If you do not mind, can you let me know where you get them and what size they are? I am going to try and locate a marine/boat soon and see what i can find...

 

Laurence

 

 

 

Screws (not bolts) are 8 x 32. Good luck finding them. I found the screws but the heads were too large.

 

Check my earlier posts in this thread, post #8 and #17.

Edited by springer
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Just a thought, but has anyone considered something like this? I know this is widely used for addressing corrossion related to aluminum wiring junctions.

 

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_installation/accessories/noalox.jsp

 

....looks like it's worth a try ! THANKS !

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