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Ist oil change is 13 qts alot?


alaska
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Ok I get the head in rectum award of the day changed oil and filter fired her up and heard gurgling sound shut her down immediately to see a pool of oil on the garage floor, seems when pulled the old filter the gasket didnt come off so another trip to dealer for more synthetic and a lot of kitty litter and cleaning I was able to enjoy the rest of the day.

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13 qts? i believe it states in the owners manual like 6qts. i didnt no you could get that many quarts in there!

 

 

I think you missed it. When you don't seat the new filter properly then there is no practical limit as to how much oil you can put in.

 

Alaska: Did you say bad words? A lot of bad words? :censored:

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I think you missed it. When you don't seat the new filter properly then there is no practical limit as to how much oil you can put in.

 

Alaska: Did you say bad words? A lot of bad words? :censored:

 

Got to watch for those seals. Owner's manual states 6.5 Quarts including new filter. DO NOT put any more in or you may damage the engine. DO NOT rely on the dip stick to indicate the correct amount of oil. They vary from car to car. Heres what you do: Once you have drained the oil, removed oil filter and MAKE SURE THE OLD RUBBER SEAL IS STILL ON THE OLD FILTER AND NOT STUCK ON THE BLOCK , then put on a new oil filter, and fill car with 6.5 Quarts of recommended oil. Start car up and run it for about three to five minutes. Turn engine off and let it sit for about five to ten minutes to allow all oil to return to the pan. Pull the oil dip stick and note where the oil shows on the stick. Scribe a little mark at that point and you now know where your oil level is supposed to be on the stick when the engine has the correct amount of oil. Go forth and sin no more!

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Got to watch for those seals. Owner's manual states 6.5 Quarts including new filter. DO NOT put any more in or you may damage the engine. DO NOT rely on the dip stick to indicate the correct amount of oil. They vary from car to car. Heres what you do: Once you have drained the oil, removed oil filter and MAKE SURE THE OLD RUBBER SEAL IS STILL ON THE OLD FILTER AND NOT STUCK ON THE BLOCK , then put on a new oil filter, and fill car with 6.5 Quarts of recommended oil. Start car up and run it for about three to five minutes. Turn engine off and let it sit for about five to ten minutes to allow all oil to return to the pan. Pull the oil dip stick and note where the oil shows on the stick. Scribe a little mark at that point and you now know where your oil level is supposed to be on the stick when the engine has the correct amount of oil. Go forth and sin no more!

Easy enough mistake to make, good thing you took a look before driving it.

Edit: Think my engine oil dip stick marks are very close to dead nuts accurate.

Edited by LuckySnake
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No the joke was I originally filled it with the proper 6.5 qts but after spitting it out on the floor I had to return to get another 7 qts to refill making it a total of 13gts.

 

 

6.5 + 7 = 13 ???????????? :hysterical:

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Ok I get the head in rectum award of the day changed oil and filter fired her up and heard gurgling sound shut her down immediately to see a pool of oil on the garage floor, seems when pulled the old filter the gasket didnt come off so another trip to dealer for more synthetic and a lot of kitty litter and cleaning I was able to enjoy the rest of the day.

 

 

DId the same thing with my 88 Bronco years ago. I change the oil under the carport,started the Bronco and heard a hissing sound. Got out and saw oil running all over the carport floor. One positive came out of it, the concrete carport floor beaded water for years, oil makes a good sealer.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok I get the head in rectum award of the day changed oil and filter fired her up and heard gurgling sound shut her down immediately to see a pool of oil on the garage floor, seems when pulled the old filter the gasket didnt come off so another trip to dealer for more synthetic and a lot of kitty litter and cleaning I was able to enjoy the rest of the day.

 

 

hehe...I did the same thing ONCE...and I vowed to never have it happen again. It was with my previous car...I thought I was a "pro" now at car maintenance and thought I'd go for a record time in changing my oil. BIG MESSY lesson learned..LOL!

 

From now on...I take my time and double check for that little gasket.

 

Incidentally, I changed my oil using the "Race Ramps" for the first time...what a nice experience...plenty of room for the tires to fit, clears the front of the car, big stopper at the top of the ramp and they didn't budge at all when I pulled up on them. That was the easiest thing to do.

 

I still hold my breath when starting the Shelby up after a oil change...that's some expensive liquids to have your car spit out if you aren't careful! I got the oil at my dealer for $9 a quart...I know it's not the best price..but I was expecting $11 or $12.

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This is why I always change my own oil and always inspect the pulled filter. It saves engines. My dad learned the hard way when he was a young man and passed it on to me. Double-ringing an oil-filter is BAD, and so is Fram with their low-flow cardboard filters. WIX or K&N are my preference.

 

What kind of oil are you running for $9-11qt!?

 

I was running a full group IV oil in my WS6 at around $6/qt (0-30 GC)

Edited by JWG223
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This is why I always change my own oil and always inspect the pulled filter. It saves engines. My dad learned the hard way when he was a young man and passed it on to me. Double-ringing an oil-filter is BAD, and so is Fram with their low-flow cardboard filters. WIX or K&N are my preference.

 

What kind of oil are you running for $9-11qt!?

 

I was running a full group IV oil in my WS6 at around $6/qt (0-30 GC)

 

 

Hi - I'm using (what most people do) for the 2010's - Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic 5w-50 b-spec. The cheapest it's available is from K-MansParts.com. That's what's recommended to keep the engine under warranty. At $7.19 a quart from K-mansparts plus shipping...I only paid about 7 more dollars getting it from the dealer.

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Hi - I'm using (what most people do) for the 2010's - Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic 5w-50 b-spec. The cheapest it's available is from K-MansParts.com. That's what's recommended to keep the engine under warranty. At $7.19 a quart from K-mansparts plus shipping...I only paid about 7 more dollars getting it from the dealer.

 

 

Who blends it for them? Doesn't the Mag. act cover things if you use the right spec oil, regardless?

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Who blends it for them? Doesn't the Mag. act cover things if you use the right spec oil, regardless?

 

 

I'm really not sure about who blends it for them. Some other people have called SVT about the oil that can be used without voiding the warranty..and I think there was another type that was acceptable.

 

But I am just sticking with the Ford motorcraft type. It's only at best a $130 cost a year for me, if I change the oil twice..so it's not something that concerns me.

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I'm really not sure about who blends it for them. Some other people have called SVT about the oil that can be used without voiding the warranty..and I think there was another type that was acceptable.

 

But I am just sticking with the Ford motorcraft type. It's only at best a $130 cost a year for me, if I change the oil twice..so it's not something that concerns me.

 

 

I like options.

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I never have looked at the oil dip stick once.

 

I just change the oil twice a year using exactly 6.5 quarts each time and have never seen any oil on the floor and I don't believe these cars burn any oil between oil changes so I see no point in checking the oil?

 

 

Coming soon to a forum near you... Look for a post by Chuck after he spins a bearing, about how crappy these engines are and how Ford refuses to warranty the engine...

 

:lurk:

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I would expect the car to suck some oil through the PCV system, most blown vehicles do, but it shouldn't be enough that the guy will end up spinning a bearing unless he is road-racing it and seeing over 1G, no? Do these cars rutinely end up 1-2qts low in 3-4K?

Edited by JWG223
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I never have looked at the oil dip stick once.

 

I just change the oil twice a year using exactly 6.5 quarts each time and have never seen any oil on the floor and I don't believe these cars burn any oil between oil changes so I see no point in checking the oil?

 

 

An other reason to pour the full 7qts in your engine??????????? :hysterical:

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I would expect the car to suck some oil through the PCV system, most blown vehicles do, but it shouldn't be enough that the guy will end up spinning a bearing unless he is road-racing it and seeing over 1G, no? Do these cars rutinely end up 1-2qts low in 3-4K?

 

 

 

Dipstick? We don't need no stinkin' dipstick! :headscratch:

 

Don't mind me. I regularly check the oil on my vehicles. Especially the $50,000 type...

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According to many Dealers the Biggest "DIP STICKS" were the owners that payed

insane money over MSRP for these cars?????????????? :hysterical:

 

Hope I don't get in trouble for this one????????? :doh:

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Unless it has a dry-sump setup you always just add the remaining quart. In the LS1 (which is what I am most familiar with), you could run 6.5-7qts before you even had to THINK about crank windage (stated capacity was 5.5q). I don't recommend anything that drastic on other engines, just saying.

 

When a V8 is sitting there at idle, you have roughly 1qt circulating through the engine. That drops the amount of oil in the pan down to 5.5qts if you are uber-picky. When you wrap that V8 up to 6K, you have at LEAST 1qt in each head and another on its way down to the pan again. COnservative estimate. That means you now have 3.5qts in that pan. Now consider that you might be pulling .8G sliding it through a corner or slamming hte brakes/gas. That 3.5qts is sloshing pretty badly. Oh wait...what if your car uses 1qt between 4-5K mile changes because you drive it hard, very common. Now you have 2.5qts in the pan, sloshing around wildly. Shit happens. Just add the extra 1/2 qt instead of saving the darn bottle.

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