Jump to content

New TB, Elbow, SC inlet port, FRPP Res elim. and IW 10% OD

Recommended Posts

Hi All,


It took 3 weeks but got it done and now I'm starting to gain some real confidence when working on these cars. Thought you might like to see some pics.


Justin at VMP tuning hooked me up with the following:



The 72mm TB and Big D elbow that Justin makes are incredible pieces. Here's some photo's side by side with the stock pieces:






Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the stock & Justin's pieces bolted together. You can really see the improved flow characteristics on Justin's:




Here's the new elbow on the SC before the port. Look how much needs to come out!



And after several hours of dremel work and cleaning, here's the after pic:



Here's a pic of the IW 10% OD installed:



And finally this pic shows the FRPP resonator eliminator and the other goodies installed:



Today I loaded up Justin's new tune and took er out for a spin and holly smokes the car is now officially insane! I can't get the smile off my face. :) I plan on doing some data logging and sending to Justin for any final tweaks.


A big shout out to Justin at VMP tuning and Brain at Posi for answering my questions along the way. Pretty cool that you can do this on your own with a little help from the pros.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey DaFreak; im sure you took your supercharger off, but did you remove front drive and rotors

for porting? or did you just stuff it with rags? whats involved?





Hi Sean,


Yep, I removed the front drive and rotors for the SC porting. When you remove the front drive (I used a wood block and hammer to tap it apart) be ready to catch the oil that's gonna flow out. Duct tape up the rotor needle bearings and dremel away. Then you'll remove all the old gasket maker leftovers (I used Permatex gasket remover and a brass brush for this) and clean everything up with a mild detergent and water. I used simple green and a 1300 psi pressure washer connected to a hot water spigot. I let everything dry then repeated the pressure washing process again as I wanted to make sure everything was squeaky clean. After it dried I used compressed air to blow away any remaining dust and perform a final cleaning (with alcohol) around the front drive and rotor pack seal. I then applied a very thin layer of anaerobic gasket maker on the front drive to rotor pack seal and buttoned er up. I learned from Brian at Posi that you need not apply the gasket maker to the rotor pack & casing seal as it's really not needed (others might argue this). You'll want to perform the torquing of the SC screws in 2 steps (i went with 12 and 25 lb ft I believe). I waited 24 hours then applied 4.7 oz of SC oil that I got from kmansparts. Then put the SC back on the car and connected everything up.


I have a 2010 workshop manual that detailed the removal and install of the SC so let me know if you want more detailed info on that. You'll definitely want to follow it step by step. I had to skip one of the early steps which turned out to be a big mistake but I won't go into detail about that :)


In looking back on it, it was pretty easy but a little stressful as I had never done it before. If you get a big D elbow from Justin I would say go for it. I kept telling myself, worse case scenario is that I will have to buy a new blower :). If you have all the supplies needed you should easily be able to get in done in 2-3 days. It dragged on for me as I had to wait for all the items I needed to perform the process.


And wow, now the power really comes on quick and it's just a blast to drive. I took it out for a spin yesterday and rolled down the windows to listen and man it just makes some amazing sounds. Now it's time to think about suspension and getting all the power to the ground. I'm thinking Griggs GR40SS but that will have to wait till next year :)


Best of luck,



Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...