SGT Now SGT/SC

[shelbytexan]

i just got my car back from Quantum today. I have the whipple 550 s/c. I have the jba shorty headers and 4'' aluminum driveshaft. My numbers came to 491 h.p. and 452 torque. I've noticed a lot of the cars have come back with considerable more torque and 500 or more h.p. I've got the 410 gears in my car so i really don't need any more power but just wondering if this is considered good numbers. I've read on one of these threads about belt shreading. How do i know i've got the correct idler plley to keep this from happening. Hopefully i've got the latest and greatest design. Thanks,Kenny.

[Son of GT]

i just got my car back from Quantum today. I have the whipple 550 s/c. I have the jba shorty headers and 4'' aluminum driveshaft. My numbers came to 491 h.p. and 452 torque. I've noticed a lot of the cars have come back with considerable more torque and 500 or more h.p. I've got the 410 gears in my car so i really don't need any more power but just wondering if this is considered good numbers. I've read on one of these threads about belt shreading. How do i know i've got the correct idler plley to keep this from happening. Hopefully i've got the latest and greatest design. Thanks,Kenny.

 

 

 

Your talking rear wheel numbers, then your car is spot on in the safe range for a non-forged 4.6 engine. You really don't want to push a stock bottom end of a 4.6 more than 420-435 H.P. (at the crank) range. You can go past that, and people have, but their engines end up puking over time.

[shelbytexan]

Your talking rear wheel numbers, then your car is spot on in the safe range for a non-forged 4.6 engine. You really don't want to push a stock bottom end of a 4.6 more than 420-435 H.P. (at the crank) range. You can go past that, and people have, but their engines end up puking over time.

 

Yes, this is my numbers at the rear wheels. I don't think i would feel any difference in the car if it were 10 h.p. more. With the 410 gears my car feels probably like it has 50 h.p. more anyhow. My only problem is i don't stay in any gear very long but it does seem very driveable as long as i stay out of the boost but if is a big word lol.

[andrewnagle1964]

i just got my car back from Quantum today. I have the whipple 550 s/c. I have the jba shorty headers and 4'' aluminum driveshaft. My numbers came to 491 h.p. and 452 torque. I've noticed a lot of the cars have come back with considerable more torque and 500 or more h.p. I've got the 410 gears in my car so i really don't need any more power but just wondering if this is considered good numbers. I've read on one of these threads about belt shreading. How do i know i've got the correct idler plley to keep this from happening. Hopefully i've got the latest and greatest design. Thanks,Kenny.

 

Congratulations ! (have you got new rubber ordered ?)

 

I also have 4.10 gears and a Whipple 500HO SC with the 3.5 pulley (soon to be 3.25), ThumpRRR belt tensioner 90mm and Thump RRR idler pulleys waiting to go in 90mm and 100 mm these are the sizes Whipple and John aka Springer recommend (see his post and picture)

 

 

 

This is producing 467rwhp and 459TQ with the new pulley we are shooting for 500 rwhp

 

Now you gotta post some photos !!!

 

Take Care

Andrew

[shelbytexan]

I've got new 20 in. cs 40's in silver and nitto tires in 285 x30 for the rear and 255x35 x 20 for the front. Where did you order the pulley tensioners . I should have the latest design that whipple has but i don't need problems . Nothing worse than spending all this money and then breaking down. Thanks, Kenney

[andrewnagle1964]

I've got new 20 in. cs 40's in silver and nitto tires in 285 x30 for the rear and 255x35 x 20 for the front. Where did you order the pulley tensioners . I should have the latest design that whipple has but i don't need problems . Nothing worse than spending all this money and then breaking down. Thanks, Kenney

 

 

From Lethal Performance Thump Idlers I would serious consider the Thump RRR Belt Tensioner if you do not have that already.

 

Need to see some Photos !!!!

Andrew

[blueone]

I've got new 20 in. cs 40's in silver and nitto tires in 285 x30 for the rear and 255x35 x 20 for the front. Where did you order the pulley tensioners . I should have the latest design that whipple has but i don't need problems . Nothing worse than spending all this money and then breaking down. Thanks, Kenney

 

 

The Thump rrr is probably as good as it gets, but for $360 it should be, the Steeda gets the job done for $160.

[springer]

I believe the Steeda tensioner arm is the stock tensioner with a plate welded to it for added strength. Below is a photo of the Thump RRR tensioner arm.

 

The tensioner pulley needs to be 90mm, per Whipple. Make sure when you order a different tensioner arm that you specify the pulley be 90mm or you could end up with the stock 76mm pulley. The top right idler pulley needs to 100mm, per Whipple, I know of two instances that had 90mm pulleys.

 

Also, I would highly recommend that you carry a spare belt for the supercharger, your original belt that by-passes the supercharger, a 3/4" socket and wrench, a tensioner tool (purchased at any auto parts store) and a diagram to thread the supercharger belt (found in your Whipple manual). (The diagram to thread the stock belt is in your Mustang owner's manual.)

 

If necessary, you may use your stock belt to by-pass the supercharger.

 

You might want to review this thread regarding tensioner arms, idler pulleys and issues with belts for the GT/SC.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54634-now-im-not-as-freakin-pd/

 

Don't wait to order a spare belt and the other items mentioned here- get 'em now so you don't stranded somewhere!!!

[blueone]

I believe the Steeda tensioner arm is the stock tensioner with a plate welded to it for added strength. Below is a photo of the Thump RRR tensioner arm.

 

The tensioner pulley needs to be 90mm, per Whipple. Make sure when you order a different tensioner arm that you specify the pulley be 90mm or you could end up with the stock 76mm pulley. The top right idler pulley needs to 100mm, per Whipple, I know of two instances that had 90mm pulleys.

 

Also, I would highly recommend that you carry a spare belt for the supercharger, your original belt that by-passes the supercharger, a 3/4" socket and wrench, a tensioner tool (purchased at any auto parts store) and a diagram to thread the supercharger belt (found in your Whipple manual). (The diagram to thread the stock belt is in your Mustang owner's manual.)

 

If necessary, you may use your stock belt to by-pass the supercharger.

 

You might want to review this thread regarding tensioner arms, idler pulleys and issues with belts for the GT/SC.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54634-now-im-not-as-freakin-pd/

 

Don't wait to order a spare belt and the other items mentioned here- get 'em now so you don't stranded somewhere!!!

 

 

I just found out how right you are about the spare belt and tool but I would have needed a spare idler pulley too. I was on my way to the hardware store when my power steering went out and check charging system light came on. Turns out that one of the POS idler pulley that came with my KB 8 rib kit gave up and my belt got shredded along with it, I got lucky and found another belt at NAPA and a stock pulley at Autozone which was enough to get me home. Just bought some billet pulleys from Thumper and I will have a spare belt and tensioner tool in my trunk before my car leaves the driveway again, I never want to go through that again.

 

 

 

 

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