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Get more traction before adding more power??


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I am looking to add some power to my stock 2010 Shelby. :happy feet: However I believe the car has more power than ability to put it to the ground. Believe first logical step is to change out the LCA's to cure any axle wrap as well as go to a one piece driveshaft.

 

If I have the right idea, what products would you recommend that you have actually used.

 

Any insight / guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thx!

Edited by OldSchool
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I am looking to add some power to my stock 2010 Shelby. :happy feet: However I believe the car has more power than ability to put it to the ground. Believe first logical step is to change out the LCA's to cure any axle wrap as well as go to a one piece driveshaft.

 

If I have the right idea, what products would you recommend that you have actually used.

 

Any insight / guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thx!

 

 

Changing out the lower control arms is not as important as it is to replace the upper control arm to stop the hop.

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What upper control arms would you recommend? Will it reduce only or totally eliminate wheel hop. I'm up for replacing them and the crappy Goodyear's when I get the full life out of them.

 

 

I have J&M. No wheel hop.

 

IMO, at the track, stock Goodyears are worse than crappy - they're dangerous. Goodyear should be ashamed to put its name on those tires. I swap out OEMs for Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials when I go to the dragstrip.

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I have J&M. No wheel hop.

 

IMO, at the track, stock Goodyears are worse than crappy - they're dangerous. Goodyear should be ashamed to put its name on those tires. I swap out OEMs for Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials when I go to the dragstrip.

 

So what you are saying for the price of these tires we got taken???????????

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So what you are saying for the price of these tires we got taken???????????

 

 

I thought I was pretty plain. I'll break it down some more.

 

1. These tires should never have been put on a 500+ hp car.

 

2. For serious track use they are useless and potentially dangerous. Please don't go to the track and embarrass the rest of us by launching easy on the way to a mid to high 13 second pass. The stock BMW 335i in the other lane will be posting about how he beat a Shelby.

 

3. If you're at a stop light and just want to get ahead of the GTi in the lane next to you, if you hit the gas pedal too hard you lose traction big time and the GTi looks at you like you're stupid. That sucks and could be dangerous.

 

4. If a 6 cylinder Camaro challenges you at the next stoplight and you stomp it, the Camaro waves bye bye as you fishtail into next Tuesday. That sucks and can be dangerous.

 

5. If you drive like a granny on the street, you'll probably be ok. But if you drive that way you should be forced to resign your team shelby membership and trade in your car for a Buick Roadmaster.

 

6. If you paid 20 over 4 years ago and had yours parked in a climate controlled garage since then waiting for the price to go up, you were taken, but the tires had nothing to do with it.

Edited by lawdude
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I have J&M. No wheel hop.

 

IMO, at the track, stock Goodyears are worse than crappy - they're dangerous. Goodyear should be ashamed to put its name on those tires. I swap out OEMs for Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials when I go to the dragstrip.

 

 

Did you do anything with the driveshaft. I hear that it is recommended to go with the one piece driveshaft that is on the SuperSnakes before you up the horsepower too much.

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I thought I was pretty plain. I'll break it down some more.

 

1. These tires should never have been put on a 500+ hp car.

 

2. For serious track use they are useless and potentially dangerous. Please don't go to the track and embarrass the rest of us by launching easy on the way to a mid to high 13 second pass. The stock BMW 335i in the other lane will be posting about how he beat a Shelby.

 

3. If you're at a stop light and just want to get ahead of the GTi in the lane next to you, if you hit the gas pedal too hard you lose traction big time and the GTi looks at you like you're stupid. That sucks and could be dangerous.

 

4. If a 6 cylinder Camaro challenges you at the next stoplight and you stomp it, the Camaro waves bye bye as you fishtail into next Tuesday. That sucks and can be dangerous.

 

5. If you drive like a granny on the street, you'll probably be ok. But if you drive that way you should be forced to resign your team shelby membership and trade in your car for a Buick Roadmaster.

 

6. If you paid 20 over 4 years ago and had yours parked in a climate controlled garage since then waiting for the price to go up, you were taken, but the tires had nothing to do with it.

 

 

Come on Lawdude, don't hold back. Tell us what you really think. ;) By the way, I agree with you 100% I much prefer my currrent Michelin Pilot Sports over the F1 hockey pucks.

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I have J&M. No wheel hop.

 

IMO, at the track, stock Goodyears are worse than crappy - they're dangerous. Goodyear should be ashamed to put its name on those tires. I swap out OEMs for Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials when I go to the dragstrip.

 

im getting tired of the wheel hop---did you do the change yourself--how difficult---where did you buy the JM---about how much--thanks.bTW, if your around ATL on sunday theres an incredible free cruise--therell be 500 cars with nice weater at Paneras in East Cobb--PM me for dierctions.Starts early and is pretty much fill by 9:30---bob

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im getting tired of the wheel hop---did you do the change yourself--how difficult---where did you buy the JM---about how much--thanks.bTW, if your around ATL on sunday theres an incredible free cruise--therell be 500 cars with nice weater at Paneras in East Cobb--PM me for dierctions.Starts early and is pretty much fill by 9:30---bob

 

 

Hey Bob the J&M UCA is something that you can do yourself but it is much easier on a lift. Here is an old thread I did with some tips on how to do the install. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/41732-jm-lca-uca-install

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Hey Bob the J&M UCA is something that you can do yourself but it is much easier on a lift. Here is an old thread I did with some tips on how to do the install. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/41732-jm-lca-uca-install

 

 

 

thanks for the link--i have buddy who has a lift--i was confused on the whole loading thing.His lift is in the floor, so we can walk around under the car.So to get the loading,would we have to lower the car so the jack has enought room to work.BTW, nice color combo and wheels---bob

Edited by Torched10
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thanks for the link--i have buddy who has a lift--i was confused on the whole loading thing.His lift is in the floor, so we can walk around under the car.So to get the loading,would we have to lower the car so the jack has enought room to work.BTW, nice color combo and wheels---bob

 

 

You will need to jack the rear up and remove the rear wheels. Then lower the rear axle as far down as it will go so you can remove and install the new UCA. Then torque the upper bolt but do not torque the bolt on the diff pumpkin until you put the wheels back on and let it sit on the wheels with the suspension loaded. Then torque that bolt. The other technique is to mark the shocks with the car loaded on its wheels and then instead of torquing the last bolt with the car on its own wheels you can jack the rear axle back up to the shock marks and then the suspension is loaded the same as if on its wheels.

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im getting tired of the wheel hop---did you do the change yourself--how difficult---where did you buy the JM---about how much--thanks.bTW, if your around ATL on sunday theres an incredible free cruise--therell be 500 cars with nice weater at Paneras in East Cobb--PM me for dierctions.Starts early and is pretty much fill by 9:30---bob

 

 

 

Bob:

 

I think I bought it from Lethal. Had it drop shipped to MM to put on before I picked up the car. I'm in Athens right now (didn't bring the Shelby) for grandkids birthdays. Won't be able to make it this time. Next time give me a little notice. :)

 

Mike

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Bob:

 

I think I bought it from Lethal. Had it drop shipped to MM to put on before I picked up the car. I'm in Athens right now (didn't bring the Shelby) for grandkids birthdays. Won't be able to make it this time. Next time give me a little notice. :)

 

Mike

 

 

Mike ---its always the 1st sunday,except this week due to easter---PM me your email and Ill let you know for the next one---bob

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I hope people haven't been blaming the Wheel hop on the Goodyears.

 

I ran Eagle F1s on my 350HP Saleen and they were better than my Pirelli Pzeros. Granted 550HP isn't 350HP so hopefully the G2 F1s on the 2011 SVT meet the HP output of the Shelby.

 

Still as people have noted tires have very little to do with wheel hop.

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I have J&M. No wheel hop.

 

IMO, at the track, stock Goodyears are worse than crappy - they're dangerous. Goodyear should be ashamed to put its name on those tires. I swap out OEMs for Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials when I go to the dragstrip.

 

Did you go with an adjustable or non adjustable UCA?

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