2010 Kicker upgrade package

[mrl859]

Thats exactly right, I just left it sitting there, and Im glad I did.

 

So Here is what I have gathered from all the threads on this topic:

 

1. If you have a convertible, move along. This system was not acoustically designed for the verts. The sound is WAY better in a coupe, and the sub doesnt fit anyway. Kicker COULD have designed it to fit in both, and if that was the only problem it would have had going into the vert, dont you tink they would have slapped together a different trunk sub in a new york minute? Of course they would, but thats not the ONLY reason they didnt do that, its the overall sound in a vert...just doesnt fly.

 

2. The guys with a STOCK shaker 500 notice a significant performance upgrade in the coupe with a stock head unit. The Kicker is simply a better, and cost effective solution to the shaker 500. If you think the shaker 500 is good enough for you, you dont push your radio, and that is fine and dandy. Most of the time I dont even listen to anything but my car when I drive.

 

3. The guys with a stock shaker 1000 should simply save their money, coupe or not. The highs and mids may be a little clearer on the kicker system, but the bass doesnt even come close to the stock 1000. (and true mid) This is interesting, because the kicker door sub magnet is huge and looks like it would way outperform the stock 1000 door sub. I tried it with the kicker amp, and the kicker speakers back on the factory 1000 amp. The door sub may have a crossover or capacitor that limits its low frequencies.

 

4. The guys with a aftermarket head unit may have problems balancing the sound on the kicker system. I was told it was designed for the stock head unit only, so your results may vary.

 

Im not doggin it, just my observation after much fuss and messing with the kicker system to make it right in my car. Just couldnt get it to match my shaker 1000 and my expectations. I hope to have much better luck in the new car.

 

Hope this spells out some points you guys can think on.

 

I'm afraid I must disagree. The bass from the Kicker sub is much cleaner and tighter than the stock 1000 sub. Also, lighter and more compact.

[Burning Blue Star IV]

I'm afraid I must disagree. The bass from the Kicker sub is much cleaner and tighter than the stock 1000 sub. Also, lighter and more compact.

 

 

I've heard nothing but good things about the Kicker/Shelby sub too. I'll probably get it the next time they have a sale here.

[dachuckster]

I've heard nothing but good things about the Kicker/Shelby sub too. I'll probably get it the next time they have a sale here.

 

 

Hi everyone, new 'Stang convertible owner here looking to improve my Shaker 500 system.

 

I have heard others are very happy with the Shelby Kicker replacement 8" subs but several in this post voiced displeasure. I see that a replacement amp is available (the 4.1 amp) that offers a lot more power than the stock power. I think I am going to go with a set of Kicker KS680s in the front and possible upgarde the subs as well with the Shelby Kickers.

 

To those that were not impressed with the subs and/or the upgraded 4.1 amp, are you sure they were all wired correctly? Or wouldnt another option be to get a different amp?

 

Here is a real nice Kicker amp that is rated at 70 watts x 4, plus a 420 x1 @ 2 ohms for $499.00 avail here http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610ZX705/Kicker-10ZX700-5.html?tp=35808

Or a "cooler" class D Alpine amp rated at 50 watts x4 plus 300 x1 @ 4 or 2 ohms for $599 available here http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500PDX5/Alpine-PDX-5.html?tp=35808

[Burning Blue Star IV]

I think I am going to go with a set of Kicker KS680s in the front and possible upgrade the subs as well with the Shelby Kickers.

 

IMO you can't go wrong with the KS680's...they work really well with the stock system...you will immediately hear the sound difference. I haven't gotten the door subs yet - I believe that they just came in stock for the 2010 model.

 

To those that were not impressed with the upgraded 4.1 amp, are you sure they were all wired correctly? Or wouldnt another option be to get a different amp?

 

It's pretty hard to not wire up the Shelby/Kicker amp correctly.

 

1. One wire gets connected to the fuse box...runs through the firewall and plugs in directly to the amp via connector.

2. The harness gets connected to the back of the head unit - two large connectors that's impossible to plug in wrong.

3. The other end of the head unit harness gets plugged into the amp along with the other large connector - again no way to plug it in wrong.

4. Lastly, a ground wire gets connected to the screw near the passenger kick panel.

 

That's it.

 

Here is a real nice Kicker amp that is rated at 70 watts x 4, plus a 420 x1 @ 2 ohms for $499.00 avail here http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610ZX705/Kicker-10ZX700-5.html?tp=35808

Or a "cooler" class D Alpine amp rated at 50 watts x4 plus 300 x1 @ 4 or 2 ohms for $599 available here http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500PDX5/Alpine-PDX-5.html?tp=35808

 

 

I would go aftermarket with the amp...but the wiring is something that I just don't want to get involved with. BTW - there are much cheaper places to get the kicker amp - sonix has it for $324. That is the amp that I would get if I were an "install" expert.

[DubbsFaris]

Actually I didnt really crank your stereo when we were driving it D. I bought the Kicker system and installed it in my car, and I didnt have anywhere NEAR the sound I did with the stock 1000.

 

Now there may be two things going on here-

1. I have a convertible, and with the top down driving down the road, my stock setup is just plain LOUDER so I can listen to my stereo. The sub box in the trunk needs the extra air space for full functionality. I tried laying it down, and then settled with mounting it in the spare tire hole and it muffled it.

 

2. I am running a Pioneer Premier AVIC F90BT as my head unit, and the kicker system may not be setup for an aftermarket headunit.

 

 

A funny sidenote- Dont listen to Imma Be by the Black Eyed Peas on your stock 1000. Blew a door speaker in about 45 seconds of that song. It did shake every mirror on the car though!

 

And Im a classic rock guy- guess I better stick to that!

[dh777]

2. I am running a Pioneer Premier AVIC F90BT as my head unit, and the kicker system may not be setup for an aftermarket headunit.

 

 

 

 

That might be the problem since the Kicker is made for the stock system

 

 

A funny sidenote- Dont listen to Imma Be by the Black Eyed Peas on your stock 1000. Blew a door speaker in about 45 seconds of that song. It did shake every mirror on the car though!

 

 

 

 

The Kicker will shake it hard and won't blow

[dachuckster]

That might be the problem since the Kicker is made for the stock system

 

The Kicker will shake it hard and won't blow

 

 

Thanks guys. Perhaps it is because of the head unit that the amp and new Shelby Kicker sub aint working the way they are supposed to. Like I said, I have seen others report the new Shelby Kicker subs were a huge improvement, and one would think that adding an amp, especially one with a significant amount of more power, would sound better.

 

The way the hook up is described seems pretty fail-proof. When i mentioned that maybe it was installed wrong, I was thinking maybe positive and negative were mixed up, or something like that.

[dachuckster]

IMO you can't go wrong with the KS680's...they work really well with the stock system...you will immediately hear the sound difference. I haven't gotten the door subs yet - I believe that they just came in stock for the 2010 model.

 

 

 

It's pretty hard to not wire up the Shelby/Kicker amp correctly.

 

1. One wire gets connected to the fuse box...runs through the firewall and plugs in directly to the amp via connector.

2. The harness gets connected to the back of the head unit - two large connectors that's impossible to plug in wrong.

3. The other end of the head unit harness gets plugged into the amp along with the other large connector - again no way to plug it in wrong.

4. Lastly, a ground wire gets connected to the screw near the passenger kick panel.

 

That's it.

 

 

 

I would go aftermarket with the amp...but the wiring is something that I just don't want to get involved with. BTW - there are much cheaper places to get the kicker amp - sonix has it for $324. That is the amp that I would get if I were an "install" expert.

 

 

 

Sonix?

[dachuckster]

Sonix?

 

 

I found the Sonix web site, but I dont see the Kicker Shelby 5 channel amp.

[03 DSG Snake]

Actually I didnt really crank your stereo when we were driving it D. I bought the Kicker system and installed it in my car, and I didnt have anywhere NEAR the sound I did with the stock 1000.

 

Now there may be two things going on here-

1. I have a convertible, and with the top down driving down the road, my stock setup is just plain LOUDER so I can listen to my stereo. The sub box in the trunk needs the extra air space for full functionality. I tried laying it down, and then settled with mounting it in the spare tire hole and it muffled it.

 

2. I am running a Pioneer Premier AVIC F90BT as my head unit, and the kicker system may not be setup for an aftermarket headunit.

 

 

A funny sidenote- Dont listen to Imma Be by the Black Eyed Peas on your stock 1000. Blew a door speaker in about 45 seconds of that song. It did shake every mirror on the car though!

 

And Im a classic rock guy- guess I better stick to that!

 

 

 

 

I installed the Kicker Speakers/Door Subs only and ran them for a few months on my F90BT. Sounded great and a good improvement over stock.

 

I pulled the F90 and replaced it with a Z120BT while installing the Kicker Amp and Rear Sub. Sounds stronger all around, but I still need to fine tune it a bit.

 

One thing I notice is that at Volume 35+ I get distortion in the speakers, typical of an amp being overdriven. But at that level on the Pioneer deck it is LOUD, so no issues keeping it in the 20 range.

[dachuckster]

I found the Sonix web site, but I dont see the Kicker Shelby 5 channel amp.

 

 

Or are you talking just a plain 'ol 5 channel amp? What about the ohm specs on the amp and sub combo?

 

And where does the Shelby Kicker amp get installed?

[Burning Blue Star IV]

I found the Sonix web site, but I dont see the Kicker Shelby 5 channel amp.

 

The Shelby/Kicker amp is only available thru the Shelby store and a few other authorized dealers like Champion Mustang or Stangaholics.

 

I was just referring to the Kicker ZX700.5 amp on Sonic Electronix: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21952_Kicker+ZX700.5+-10ZX700.5-.html That is a sweet looking amp. But it'd be a ton more work to get that thing in your car.

[Burning Blue Star IV]

And where does the Shelby Kicker amp get installed?

 

It gets mounted under the glove box. No cutting, drilling or anything needed - again, one of the benefits of going with the Shelby/Kicker Amp.

[dachuckster]

It gets mounted under the glove box. No cutting, drilling or anything needed - again, one of the benefits of going with the Shelby/Kicker Amp.

 

 

I think the Shelby Kicker amp is what I will do for ease of an install.

 

That amp is a "4.1" amp, 46 watts x 4 channels. What is the amp rated at for the 2 subs? Anyone?

[Burning Blue Star IV]

I think the Shelby Kicker amp is what I will do for ease of an install.

 

That amp is a "4.1" amp, 46 watts x 4 channels. What is the amp rated at for the 2 subs? Anyone?

 

 

If you're talking about the door subs...nothing...it doesn't run the door subs. The door subs run off the factory set up.

[mrl859]

If you're talking about the door subs...nothing...it doesn't run the door subs. The door subs run off the factory set up.

 

While it does not power the subs, my uderstanding is that the amp does use DSP to modify the signals to the sub amps. BTW, talked to Kicker the other day and there is still no activity on releasing the amp for the 2010-2011 with navigation.

[Burning Blue Star IV]

While it does not power the subs, my understanding is that the amp does use DSP to modify the signals to the sub amps. BTW, talked to Kicker the other day and there is still no activity on releasing the amp for the 2010-2011 with navigation.

 

Hi Mrl859 -

 

I would assume that you are correct that gets fed through the amp - maybe through the signal processing and such. I was playing around with the fader in my car today...and if you fade it to the back 6x8's completely, the door subs still have output....I was shocked to hear how low and almost insignificant the sound was coming out of them. No wonder the system has no bass unless a trunk sub is installed.

[dachuckster]

Hi Mrl859 -

 

I would assume that you are correct that gets fed through the amp - maybe through the signal processing and such. I was playing around with the fader in my car today...and if you fade it to the back 6x8's completely, the door subs still have output....I was shocked to hear how low and almost insignificant the sound was coming out of them. No wonder the system has no bass unless a trunk sub is installed.

 

 

Anybody know what the power rating is for the amp section that drives the subs?

 

I also faded the sound to the rear speakers and noticed that the subs were not puting out as much "sound" as one would think. I wonder if that is designed that way. If all 4 speakers are going, output on the subs is at 100%. but if only 2 speakers are going, it gets knocked down. Just a thought.

 

Regarding the Shelby-Kicker upgrade amp, does this replace another amp that is installed ion the same location? Or does the factory radio have a built in amp, and then upon hooking up the Shelby-Kicker, the 4 main speakers are fed off the new amp?

[mrl859]

The amp is built into the radio EXCEPT on the 2010-2011 Nav, which is remote mounetd in the trunk.

[Burning Blue Star IV]

Anybody know what the power rating is for the amp section that drives the subs?

 

I also faded the sound to the rear speakers and noticed that the subs were not puting out as much "sound" as one would think. I wonder if that is designed that way. If all 4 speakers are going, output on the subs is at 100%. but if only 2 speakers are going, it gets knocked down. Just a thought.

 

Regarding the Shelby-Kicker upgrade amp, does this replace another amp that is installed ion the same location?

 

 

A previous poster quoted the amp power output for the stock door subs as being 40W RMS.

 

Not sure about the fading thing - I would think that it would just control the 6x8's.

 

There is no amp where the Shelby/kicker amp is installed.

[dachuckster]

I just had the new Shelby-Kicker subs installed, along with new Kicker KS680 in the front doors in my 2010 GT Premium Convertible with the SHlker 500 system.

 

In one word, the sound "sucks".

 

The mids are muffled, very little bass, and I am not happy.

 

With the stock subs, it was almost too much bass, I had the bass level just a notch or two above flat. Now I have it set all the way up and the bass level is stil low. Puting my hand in front of the sub and very little air is being moved.

 

Looks like I will probably try to return them to Champion Mustang!

[mrl859]

Did you install the 4.1 amp? I posted way back how bad the S/K door subs sound with stock amp. I'm using stock door subs, the four K/S 6x8s, and the K/S self powered trunk sub (with the signal to the rear amp reduced). I think it sounds pretty good. Maybe I'll get to hear one with the 4.1 amp in January.

[dachuckster]

Did you install the 4.1 amp? I posted way back how bad the S/K door subs sound with stock amp. I'm using stock door subs, the four K/S 6x8s, and the K/S self powered trunk sub (with the signal to the rear amp reduced). I think it sounds pretty good. Maybe I'll get to hear one with the 4.1 amp in January.

 

 

I did not get the 4.1 add-on amp. I guess I didnt recall your earlier post regarding the crappy S/K subs with the factory set up. I will look and try to find it. Since its a 4.1 amp, the subs are not powered by the 4.1 amp, it only adds wattage to the 4 main speakers. How does the 4.1 amp improve the subs sound/performance?

 

Another forum suggested I check to make sure all 4 sub wires were not connected to the sub. Only 2 wires are supposed to be connected. I will be checking with my installer tomorrow to be sure this was done.

[mrl859]

According the Kicker engineer I spoke to, it uses digital signal processing (DSP) to the sub-woofer amps.

[dachuckster]

According the Kicker engineer I spoke to, it uses digital signal processing (DSP) to the sub-woofer amps.

 

mrl859 and silverstar, great thread with some great info from you guys, as well as by others.

 

Doing a lot more research on this, I am considering going with the S/K 4.1 amp (but someone posted there was not much improvement) and hoping that makes my set up sound better (Kicker KS680s in the doors and the S/K subs). If not, do what mrl859 did and put the factory subs back in. This is assuming the wiring for all the speakers are correct.

 

I also called Kicker tech support and they HIGHLY recommended the 4.1 amp to make the S/K subs sound better. mrl859, did you ever get the 4.1 amp? I forgot who mentioned earlier that they got the amp and didnt like it. Are you willing to sell it or did you return it?

 

Another option is getting a 5 channel amp and mounting it somewhere. The Alpine PDX-5 runs very cool so it may fit under the pass seat. Otherwise JL Audio and Kicker make a nice looking 5 channel as well.

 

What is the ohm rating on the S/K subs? If they are 4 ohm, then an amp that can run 300 watts (rms) into 2 ohm would work, correct?

[dachuckster]

I decided to get the amp right now...very excited to receive it and get it installed.

 

I think I might install sound dynamat (or something similar) behind the door 6x8's or some speaker baffles on the 6x8's.

 

Still itchin' to get that trunk sub though. Money, money, money...I need more money! :rolleyes:

 

 

Perhaps I missed it, but what is your take on the 4.1 S/K amp? Are you running the S/K 6x8s (or the KS680s) and/or the S/K subs or factory?

[mrl859]

I did not get the 4.1 amp as it is not compatible with 2010 Nav......yet. The Kicker guys recommended the 700.5 amp, but I'm looking for plug and play.

[dachuckster]

I did not get the 4.1 amp as it is not compatible with 2010 Nav......yet. The Kicker guys recommended the 700.5 amp, but I'm looking for plug and play.

 

 

At sonix, $325. Plus another $150 for wires and converters, and another $100-$150 easily for installing it, it adds up dont it!

[Burning Blue Star IV]

I just had the new Shelby-Kicker subs installed, along with new Kicker KS680 in the front doors in my 2010 GT Premium Convertible with the SHlker 500 system.

As far as the Door Subs...that's why I never got them. Mrl859 said that they were not worth it. You're not going to get a lot of bass out of just installing the 6x8's. They will provide you with a bit more clarity and highs. I'm still running the stock door subs with KS680's and the Shelby/Kicker amp - the bass is still lacking. You clearly need the trunk sub to attain that.

 

The sound is better with my set up over the stock condition. But it doesn't knock your socks off. Would I recommend what I've done to someone? MAYBE, depending on what they want and with telling them that this isn't automatically going to give them the biggest, baddest stereo around. I think the biggest boost is switching out the 6x8's.

[Burning Blue Star IV]

Perhaps I missed it, but what is your take on the 4.1 S/K amp? Are you running the S/K 6x8s (or the KS680s) and/or the S/K subs or factory?

The amp is "okay". I don't think it's honestly worth the ridiculous amount of money in terms of sound improvement/power. The ease of installation is what got me to buy it. It's not going to blow you away....AT ALL. I would characterize it as "Average"...that's being kind.

 

I have :

 

1 - Stock Shaker 500 head unit

4 - Kicker KS680's

2 - Stock Door subs

1 - Shelby/Kicker Amp

 

I'll probably get the Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub next summer.